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juddy
12th September 2013, 12:17 PM
Removed broken spot lamps and replaced with the same type.

Had a look under the bonnet, looked like to engine to me..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1117.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0336_zps5e7912f5.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1118.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0337_zps02647154.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1119.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0338_zps2cccc9bf.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1120.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0339_zps5b907df9.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1121.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0341_zpse45c2bc3.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1122.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0343_zps836d3d22.jpg.html)

87County
12th September 2013, 01:28 PM
What did you do on your Perentie Today? - about 200km :)


BTW juddy - all that black paint under the bonnet -

means rebuild/replacement parts ?

I've found that those plastic headlight protectors can benefit from removal and cleaning with plastic polish (both sides) and while they're off you've got the opportunity to adjust/raise the headlight beams (ours were adjusted quite low/short).

I note you've got names for your other vehicles - surely the RFSV could be Arnold

usi
12th September 2013, 03:50 PM
Looking good! I mounted the same compressor in the passenger battery box.

If you have the time i would like to see the mounting and fitment of the passenger side tank on yours
Is it plumbed into the main tank or is it a transfer situation?

juddy
12th September 2013, 05:57 PM
The wife called it max she thinks it looks like something from mad max.

The compressor was all ready there , looks like the army did I good job fitting it.

Not driven at night yet but will take your advice on the lights

LieutenantRover
17th October 2013, 09:10 PM
Paid for it so 48 964 will be heading west to Kalgoorlie on Monday morning. I hope there are no issues to fix first

jake110
22nd October 2013, 02:11 PM
Im looking at putting better tyres on it for 4x4 as I have found the cheese graters are killing me through ruts.
Im looking at getting some BFGoodrich 33x10.5R15L/T KM2 Mud Terrains wrapped around some 15x7 or 15x8 sunraysia rims.
I have spoken to a guy about a quote but he recons I will need lift, cut guards and huge flairs to fit them and said that the rims with the defender stud pattern only come in a negative 25 offset.
Has anyone else fit 33" tyres to theirs and have any suggestions for me??

Cheers guys,
Jake

weeds
22nd October 2013, 04:13 PM
Im looking at putting better tyres on it for 4x4 as I have found the cheese graters are killing me through ruts.
Im looking at getting some BFGoodrich 33x10.5R15L/T KM2 Mud Terrains wrapped around some 15x7 or 15x8 sunraysia rims.
I have spoken to a guy about a quote but he recons I will need lift, cut guards and huge flairs to fit them and said that the rims with the defender stud pattern only come in a negative 25 offset.
Has anyone else fit 33" tyres to theirs and have any suggestions for me??

Cheers guys,
Jake


If are wanting 33's than I would go 255/85/16's.....adjust the steering stops and I believe there might be a bit of running at full flex

Auxfire
2nd November 2013, 10:07 PM
Switched over the pintle to a combination pintle/ball hitch.
Just need to sort out an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin & can tow anything :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/2.jpg

Barefoot Dave
3rd November 2013, 10:08 AM
Auxfire, that is a sweet compromise!
Supplier and cost please?

Not what i did today, but the last couple of weeks:
Tried out the Wolf WMIK look on the RFSV (engineering police, note: just checking clearences, not going to hang them off the single rod)
and introduced two superceded soulmates.

Auxfire
3rd November 2013, 11:04 AM
Hey Dave,
It's an ADR compliant combination pintle hook rated at 6000kg (pintle) & 3500kg (ball) made by Mr Hitches. Comes with 4x grade 8 bolts & nuts & when installed allows the rear door to open even when the ball hitch is being used.

Cost was $129.95 + $25 postage from an eBay seller in Perth

Pintle Hook Combination Hitch 6 Tonne TOW BAR Trailer Towing | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PINTLE-HOOK-COMBINATION-HITCH-6-TONNE-TOW-BAR-TRAILER-TOWING-/251273262984?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a810db788&_uhb=1)

usi
3rd November 2013, 03:24 PM
Something went bang on Stockton Beach last weekend, so i did some investigating

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1578.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/brokentruck119.jpg.html)

Barefoot Dave
3rd November 2013, 04:51 PM
Ouch. I guess you proved Milspec isn't unbreakable.
Bugger.

juddy
8th November 2013, 08:17 AM
I picked up some more new tyres for MAX. Well happy

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1312.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/photo-17_zps54572fc3.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1313.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/photo-16_zps70c6156b.jpg.html)

juddy
23rd November 2013, 03:56 PM
Trimmed the exhaust pipe. Went for a drive with the canvas up...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/269.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Screenshot2013-11-23at35108PM_zpsb9a937ba.png.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/270.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Screenshot2013-11-23at35047PM_zpsed29cdd4.png.html)

ozrob
29th November 2013, 03:48 PM
Bloody nothing...POS wont go no power...
Well here is a tip for young players, back in 1994 whilst on exercise, in a state forest, we had a 6x6 ambulance that ran low on fuel in the primary tank and was switched over to the secondary tank, after that the vehicle had no power.
Being a good mechanic, thinking the fuel filter was blocked we changed the filter, and sent it on it's merry way....a few days later the POS was back....low power....
So we decided to drain the fuel tanks, clean the inside, clean out the fuel lines....and again sent it on its merry way....a few days later it was back...:censored::censored::censored::censored:

I had a look at the parts manual too see if we had a spare lift pump, perhaps it was damaged from the dirt in the fuel.
It just so happens the lift pump banjo housing has a small fuel strainer in it....and was blocked....the parts manual for the 6x6 ambo engine did not show the filter, but the manual for the 4x4 GS did.
So if your Isuzu motor is down on power...check the filter in the lift pump banjo fitting.

juddy
4th December 2013, 07:01 PM
Stripped the old canvas off today, went for a spin, wow it was hot in the cabin, yet less noise with it off, 4 hours later new canvas on very pleased, just got to re drill the holes for the rack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/837.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0593_zps4741c050.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/838.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0595_zpseff7bf2b.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/839.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0596_zps26009c02.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/840.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0598_zps46d52417.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/841.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0601_zps0e5b2a52.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/842.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0609_zps34b82638.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/843.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0614_zps5fd0dc74.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/844.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0611_zps662d7949.jpg.html)

Barefoot Dave
4th December 2013, 08:25 PM
Geez Juddy.
That canvas is a very good fit!
Is that NOS or the one you had made?

What did I do on my Perentie?
Got a Roadworthy and Pre Purchase Inspection for the immenent new owner :/

juddy
4th December 2013, 09:15 PM
It's the one I had made, perfect fit even got Velcro on the flaps to stop them flapping in the wind.

tpoole
9th December 2013, 04:45 PM
Hi Juddy
Where did you get the canvas from and how much did it cost you?
Cheers
Tim

usi
9th December 2013, 07:09 PM
Filled it with diesel, beer and steak.. Bike too

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/664.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/freeflightdec13001.jpg.html)

Interested in who did up your canopy too Juddy looks good! I'm thinking of a cover over the rops to windscreen that will roll up onto the windscreen,

LandroverScott
9th December 2013, 08:19 PM
Filled it with diesel, beer and steak.. Bike too

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/664.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/freeflightdec13001.jpg.html)

Interested in who did up your canopy too Juddy looks good! I'm thinking of a cover over the rops to windscreen that will roll up onto the windscreen,

Great photo, thanks for sharing

mattmac
17th December 2013, 07:05 PM
decided to give my RFSV snorkel a new coat of paint as was pretty faded - when i looked inside there was a lot of surface rust and peeling paint so got in there with my wire brush wheel on drill extension to give it a good clean out-worked really good- now for the tricky bit -how to paint the inside? I decided to put a plastic cap on one end and poured rust paint in the other and capped that end too then swirled it all around for a minute or so and then opened up one end and emptied any remaining paint - worked a treat-covered the whole inside. Might be an idea to get a stainless copy made up up one day when i've got the spare cash.

Barefoot Dave
17th December 2013, 08:22 PM
Nice one Matt. Remind me which one you bought?

What did I do to my Perentie?
Decisions, Decisions... tidy Carryall or Snr Commander?!
aaah, First world problems ;)

mattmac
17th December 2013, 09:06 PM
Hi Dave- sorry been a bit slack but i will post some pics of my perentie soon.
It's ARN-51779

Barefoot Dave
18th December 2013, 04:42 PM
ah, 799. stablemate to my old one. That was a pretty good one from memory.
Well done.



It seems I am now to be cut off from the elements.
Carryall, it is.

usi
5th January 2014, 04:49 PM
Painted my Hi-Lift jack and bar mounts.. Pretty happy with it hopefully it is hidden in plain sight when i mount it up

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1414.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/2014-01-05173838.jpg.html)

Wt_707
8th January 2014, 10:00 PM
Mate that looks awesome...

Did you cut your front roll bar down? Is it just a topless beast permanently?

I'm considering cutting my bars and getting a new canopy so I can fit her in my garage (its too high).

Wt_707
8th January 2014, 10:03 PM
Hey usi!

Where did you get the camo colored paints mate?
I've got a perentie and need to do a few touch ups...

usi
9th January 2014, 04:20 PM
You don't have to cut anything, Just undo a few bolts and pull the canopy off.
Then the bows unbolt and you now have a ute!

The paint you can get from your local Protec distributor

342-1166 - Camouflage Green
342-5265 - Camouflage Tan
342-7165 - Camouflage Black
342-5726 - Camouflage Light Tan



There is a heap of info over on REMLR and plenty on the servicing side here

Picked up Front and Rear diff guards to paint and install this weekend.
Had a little moment last time on the trails where i ended up doing some damage and given the welds on the front diff it hasn't been the first time either!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1200.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/2014-01-09170937.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1201.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/2014-01-09171014.jpg.html)

cummo
9th January 2014, 08:32 PM
Usi,

Just curious, what brand is the guard for your rear Salisbury? I have bought a Dolium guard for my Perentie's front Rover diff (Christmas present for the truck - it was so excited), but haven't yet done anything regarding protection for the rear diff. The front diff casing has had a decent thump at some point, and I consider a bit of protection for next time can't hurt.

For the rear Salisbury I'm considering either a guard, or a heavy duty fabricated steel or ductile iron cover as a replacement for the pressed steel cover. Replacement covers for the Dana 60 axle (apparently same fitment as the Salisbury) are very popular in the US and seem reasonably priced.

Regards

Dave

usi
9th January 2014, 08:48 PM
Usi,

Just curious, what brand is the guard for your rear Salisbury? I have bought a Dolium guard for my Perentie's front Rover diff (Christmas present for the truck - it was so excited), but haven't yet done anything regarding protection for the rear diff. The front diff casing has had a decent thump at some point, and I consider a bit of protection for next time can't hurt.

For the rear Salisbury I'm considering either a guard, or a heavy duty fabricated steel or ductile iron cover as a replacement for the pressed steel cover. Replacement covers for the Dana 60 axle (apparently same fitment as the Salisbury) are very popular in the US and seem reasonably priced.

Regards

Dave

Hey Dave

The guards are both Terrafirma, TF853 - Salisbury Rear Diff Guard
Got a bit of a surprise when it turned up Galvanized but its getting the matt black treatment so im not worried

The thing is one solid unit hopefully i don't loose to much more clearance as im already getting hung up a fair bit

cummo
10th January 2014, 01:19 PM
Thanks Usi,

Yeah, reduced clearance was my concern with a guard versus a replacement cover. The cast housing and nose of the diff seems solid as rock; the pressed steel cover seems to be the weak area.

I'll give it some thought (if there's one thing I'm good at its procrastination), but at the moment I'm leaning towards a replacement cover. Be interested to hear how the Terrafirma guard goes.

Cheers

Dave

juddy
10th January 2014, 01:37 PM
I never thought to offer the TF guards to the Perentie world, stacks of those in stock...

cinan
12th January 2014, 11:31 AM
I put some new gardening tools on the bonnet of the Snr Commander 48-623 (Cyclone from Bunnings). I couldn't find the axe that fits, all the ones I measured wouldn't fit the blade in the bracket on the bonnet.

I also tried the Lanoline treatment to get the paint a bit better, as you see in the photo I have treated the drivers side and not the passenger side.

I also tried the PTO winch with little success.

I can't seem to move the clutch lever on the winch from dis-engaged to engaged. Does anyone have any hints about how to do this ? I thought it would be fairly simple and intuitive. When it is in vertical position I am trying to move it anti-clockwise to the horizontal position. The lever has some play and moves in and out by about 2-3mm and some clicking when i try and move it side to side. Read the instructions in the cab and on these forums but no go .....Help....

Andrew

Bearman
12th January 2014, 12:14 PM
I put some new gardening tools on the bonnet of the Snr Commander 48-623 (Cyclone from Bunnings). I couldn't find the axe that fits, all the ones I measured wouldn't fit the blade in the bracket on the bonnet.

I also tried the Lanoline treatment to get the paint a bit better, as you see in the photo I have treated the drivers side and not the passenger side.

I also tried the PTO winch with little success.

I can't seem to move the clutch lever on the winch from dis-engaged to engaged. Does anyone have any hints about how to do this ? I thought it would be fairly simple and intuitive. When it is in vertical position I am trying to move it anti-clockwise to the horizontal position. The lever has some play and moves in and out by about 2-3mm and some clicking when i try and move it side to side. Read the instructions in the cab and on these forums but no go .....Help....

Andrew

G'day Andrew,


We had better get you sorted out on how to operate that winch. Because its a dog clutch type engagement it will only engage in 2 positions and they are 180 degrees apart. Pull the winch cable out off the drum by hand and hold slight pressure on the engagement lever and you will find it will engage when the dogs line up. Just be careful you don't wind the shackle assembly back into the rollers when you are winching as you will find it difficult to disengage the dog clutch when there is a load on it. Best way is to control it with the clutch pedal once you have it set up for a pull, stop it before the end of the rope gets to the rollers, disengage the dog clutch and wind the last metre or so back on by turning the spool with your hand. Also don't forget to disengage the PTO. You will soon get the knack of it.

juddy
19th January 2014, 09:21 PM
Started the RFSV for the first time in 3 weeks, started first time drove perfect, PERFECT just what you need from a Landy..:D

mattmac
30th January 2014, 06:29 PM
My RFSV power steering box is leaking and needs overhaul-will probably replace with new/reco one-anyone know the replacement part no?

isuzutoo-eh
30th January 2014, 06:38 PM
Just get a 4 bolt steering box from a Defender, Disco 1 or Rangie Classic. It won't be unique to the RFSV.

mattmac
30th January 2014, 07:04 PM
Okay-thanks. I assumed that it would be standard type.

Happy Travellers
2nd February 2014, 08:06 PM
If you no longer require the swivel pintle hitch that you removed, I maybe interested in purchasing it from you.


Thanks Jon

oowa
3rd February 2014, 03:58 PM
Bolted these items in on the weekend


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1138.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/amvcs_nsw/media/Land%20Rover%20110%20Defender/Battery.jpg.html)

paulak
8th February 2014, 07:19 PM
Over the last few weeks I removed 24v wiring and distribution box. Put in 2 120 amp hour batteries. Fitted MPPT solar regulator, inverter, 240v battery charger and 3 Anderson plugs. Tested winch. Driven 3500 km. Today I fitted 5 new 16x7 black steel rims with 255/85 R 16 tyres - they look good but the spare is a tight fit. I also removed pintle hook. Am now having a 1.8 * C beer out of my car fridge that will stay cold for a gazillion years with those batteries. Seeya. Paul. Snr Com 48 627.

dingsy
8th February 2014, 08:49 PM
Over the last few weeks I removed 24v wiring and distribution box. Put in 2 120 amp hour batteries. Fitted MPPT solar regulator, inverter, 240v battery charger and 3 Anderson plugs. Tested winch. Driven 3500 km. Today I fitted 5 new 16x7 black steel rims with 255/85 R 16 tyres - they look good but the spare is a tight fit. I also removed pintle hook. Am now having a 1.8 * C beer out of my car fridge that will stay cold for a gazillion years with those batteries. Seeya. Paul. Snr Com 48 627.

Any photos Paulak?- really keen to see how that spare fits and how the 255's look!

cinan
9th February 2014, 05:27 PM
Today, I had a looked my Perentie (48623 Snr Commander) for logical mounting points for a Hi Lift Jack. 3 options so far 1) are across the inside of the bulbar but I don't want to drill the gal on the bulbar or 2) I thought about mounting it vertically with the base in one of the jerry can holders on the back and bolting one of the HiLift brackets normally used on a rear spare to the back under the rear window to hold the Jack in place or 3) across and below the rear seats. Would be interested to get ideas from photos and brackets that people have used to mount a HiLift.

One use for the Jack would be to use it to lift the draw bar of a heavy trailer upto the height of the Perentie trailer hitch !!

Andrew.

Bearman
9th February 2014, 06:44 PM
Andrew, you need a bullbar from an RFSV, they have the brackets already welded on for the hi-lift jack, plus they have side rails. I know where there is one for sale- pm me if you are after one.

cinan
9th February 2014, 08:02 PM
I didn't want to modify my Snr Commander to that exent or weld so I am looking for add on bracket type installations

paulak
10th February 2014, 09:20 AM
Gday Dingsy. I have some photos but not sure how to post them up. I will be at my girlfriends on weekend and im sure she will be able to do it. They look great, the rims are a 0 offset so the tyres are right on the outer edge of the wheel flares. Seeya. Paul.

cummo
10th February 2014, 09:44 AM
Andrew (cinan),

A passing thought - the 2 inverted "U"-shaped brackets on the bonnet just forward of the windscreen which are are fitted with webbing straps and are used to support the windscreen when folded down are about the right longitudinal spacing to carry a Hi-lift. They may be a bit light in guage to carry that sort of weight at that height above the bonnet, but a beefier copy could be made up in lieu drilled to accept bolting/padlocking. Problem then would be whilst a heavier bracket could carry the load, the point loads on the bonnet from the Hi-lift (which is a weighty beast) might be too much for the bonnet skin unless it is reinforced below, and I can't recall if there is any underside reinforcement in that area.

There now - pretty much talked myself out of the idea!

Be interested to hear and see what arrangement you eventually settle on.

Regards

Dave

dingsy
10th February 2014, 10:23 AM
Gday Dingsy. I have some photos but not sure how to post them up. I will be at my girlfriends on weekend and im sure she will be able to do it. They look great, the rims are a 0 offset so the tyres are right on the outer edge of the wheel flares. Seeya. Paul.

Looking forward to seeing how it looks.

mattmac
10th February 2014, 08:01 PM
I decided to replace the PAS box on my perentie RFSV today as the old one had been leaking and had too much play(even after adjustment). I picked up a new genuine adwest one last week for a good price-even came with drop arm attached which was a bonus. Everything seemed to be pretty straightforward except having to remove air compressor unit to get access to steering link rod UJ bolts. Got everything unbolted but couldn't get the box to drop out the bottom without having to remove PAS pump as well which was a bit of a PITA-fortunately they use an o-ring seals instead of gaskets. The 2 hour job became a 4 hour job but what a difference it's made to the steering. Except my steering wheel is off centre now so might have to remove and refit.
Hey Dave-here's a few pics of the perentie i promised to put up- took the canvas hood off last week to clean and reproof but as the weather has been so nice I've been enjoying driving without it- less noisy too without the canvas flapping around. Kind of makes me want to get a canvas hood made just to cover the drivers compartment. As you can see i replaced the original RFSV rims which are way too heavy and replaced with some galvanised wolf rims i picked up off gumtree- plan to paint them soon to blend in with vehicle better- i prefer these rims as can also fit 235/85 tyres. I sold the original wheels to Juddy which i see he now has listed on ebay for $440 a pop- i reckon that's pretty wishful thinking! Looking forward to taking the the landy on some camping missions soon.

cummo
10th February 2014, 08:02 PM
Andrew (cinan),

Sorry mate - thought about your Hi-lift mounting issue a bit more - my suggestion of utilising the 2 inverted "U"-shaped brackets on the bonnet just forward of the windscreen for supporting the windscreen when folded down won't work with your Snr Commander as it's a hardtop and therefore won't have the brackets AFAIK.

I did say it was a passing thought didn't I - straight in one side and out the other!

Regards

Dave

isuzutoo-eh
10th February 2014, 08:07 PM
For anyone else contemplating replacing their PAS box, once all is undone, you remove the box through the top of t engine bay, not dropping it down below. That is, unless you want to raise the engine a bit to get it to clear.
Drop the new box in from the top too.
Or at least that is how it is wth civvy Isuzu One Tens.

mattmac
10th February 2014, 08:52 PM
I tried that method too but wasn't possible - the only way i could get it out was out the bottom by removing the pump as well. I"m assuming the county is different setup.

isuzutoo-eh
10th February 2014, 09:28 PM
Hmm odd, I thought that the chassis was the same in that area. I'll have another look next auction.
I remember I did have to change the orientation of the box twice, maybe three times, to get it out-kind of like a 3D maze... It also threatens to break wrists whilst skinning knuckles, not a pleasant job. I've done mine twice :(

mattmac
11th February 2014, 12:02 PM
I did it at my friend's (diesel mechanic) workshop and with me underneath and him above we couldn't find a way to wiggle out the top. Anyway-it was pretty easy to remove the pump as only 3 bolts.

weeds
11th February 2014, 09:50 PM
Today, I had a looked my Perentie (48623 Snr Commander) for logical mounting points for a Hi Lift Jack. 3 options so far 1) are across the inside of the bulbar but I don't want to drill the gal on the bulbar or 2) I thought about mounting it vertically with the base in one of the jerry can holders on the back and bolting one of the HiLift brackets normally used on a rear spare to the back under the rear window to hold the Jack in place or 3) across and below the rear seats. Would be interested to get ideas from photos and brackets that people have used to mount a HiLift.

One use for the Jack would be to use it to lift the draw bar of a heavy trailer upto the height of the Perentie trailer hitch !!

Andrew.

Leave the hi-lift at home I reckon....the previous owner had one fitted to my rig. The weight and awkwardness of them along with the number of times you actually need a hi-lift I stopped carrying mine years ago

rar110
13th February 2014, 06:53 AM
Same here.

On a previous 110 I had two long 12mm dia bolts fixed to the floor under the rear bench seat. The hilift was held in place under the seat by fitting the jack's holes over the bolts, then screwing the jack down with two big wing nuts.

I haven't taken it or needed it on a trip for years.

mattmac
15th February 2014, 11:37 AM
I reckon you should take 2 hi-lift jacks- one for jacking up the vehicle and the 2nd for a friend(hopefully there's one with you) to jack the vehicle up to raise the vehicle off you - hopefully in time to save you.

weeds
15th February 2014, 01:05 PM
I reckon you should take 2 hi-lift jacks- one for jacking up the vehicle and the 2nd for a friend(hopefully there's one with you) to jack the vehicle up to raise the vehicle off you - hopefully in time to save you.

All jacks can fail.......

paulak
15th February 2014, 04:49 PM
Gday Hopefully some photos appear. Paul

paulak
15th February 2014, 04:56 PM
It was the right way up before.

paulak
15th February 2014, 05:02 PM
This is my first photo after picking 48 627 up from Adelaide.

mattmac
16th February 2014, 01:50 PM
I decided to check valve clearances today as noticed a lack of power on trip to the city yesterday-not easy to crank engine over by hand (without resorting to removing glowplugs) to line up pulley mark at TDC - it's a bloody big nut on the end of crankshaft pulley and can't really get a socket and bar on it -is there a special tool for this job? Anyway-valve clearances seemed okay so problem must lie elsewhere- I'm thinking maybe injector issue? Might do a compression test when i can borrow a tester.
I also decided to bleed the fuel system in case there was air in there- the only problem is when i operate the hand primer pump fuel leaks out the top -i assume there's a sealing washer in there-is that replaceable or do i have to replace the whole primer pump-if so anyone know the part number and where to get one?

cinan
16th February 2014, 04:27 PM
It was the right way up before.
Looks great with the new tyres and rims. The tyres look like a Mud Terrain ? what brand tyre are they ?

paulak
16th February 2014, 05:08 PM
Gday cinan. The tyres are a Maxxis Bighorn 762. A preferable tyre would be BFG KM2 or Interco TRXUS MT but both were unavailable at the time. Paul.

rar110
17th February 2014, 11:53 AM
Gday cinan. The tyres are a Maxxis Bighorn 762. A preferable tyre would be BFG KM2 or Interco TRXUS MT but both were unavailable at the time. Paul.

285s or 255s?

usi
17th February 2014, 06:38 PM
Just cruised through Rego inspection, Paid up for another year
Mechanic was impressed very clean and no oil leaks

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/428.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/2014-02-18151810.jpg.html)

Donaldson Vacuator P10-6593 - Direct replacement $19 from Burson's

Now where to take it on the weekend!:D

mattmac
18th February 2014, 03:30 PM
My perentie gearstick knob(LT95) had been loose for a while but today it just came off in my hand changing gears-The rubber insert had fallen apart- i noticed that the end of the gearstick is threaded so when i got home i found a nut that fitted that thread and ground down the outside of the nut with bench grinder until it was almost round and really tight fit inside gear knob-i actually used the bench-vice to press it in so it was super tight and then just screwed it on to the gearstick- works a charm and much better than trying to use messy silicon etc. I don't understand why Land Rover never just made a screw on gear knob in the first place.

JDNSW
18th February 2014, 03:50 PM
.... I don't understand why Land Rover never just made a screw on gear knob in the first place.

Two reasons - acts as a vibration damper for the gear lever, and reduces labour in assembly.

I replaced the rubber on mine that had disintegrated years ago with an inch of heater hose. Then last year did pretty much what you have, except I turned the nut down to a loose fit, and then fitted a thin rubber sleeve on it and used bearing lock to make sure it stayed in the knob. Also provided a locknut to allow it to be locked with the gearchange pattern correctly oriented.

John

mattmac
18th February 2014, 09:00 PM
I just went to purchase one of those combination pintle hook/tow ball on ebay but they now have the price listed as $1129.95 instead of $129.95???

Sea_Dog
19th February 2014, 03:06 AM
Yeah I spoke to them the other day they told me they put the price up as there low on stock but there's a few others on eBay selling em for around 200


I just went to purchase one of those combination pintle hook/tow ball on ebay but they now have the price listed as $1129.95 instead of $129.95???

mattmac
19th February 2014, 08:13 AM
Okay thanks- Will do search for another seller.

87County
19th February 2014, 01:26 PM
Two reasons - acts as a vibration damper for the gear lever, and reduces labour in assembly.

I replaced the rubber on mine that had disintegrated years ago with an inch of heater hose. Then last year did pretty much what you have, except I turned the nut down to a loose fit, and then fitted a thin rubber sleeve on it and used bearing lock to make sure it stayed in the knob. Also provided a locknut to allow it to be locked with the gearchange pattern correctly oriented.

John

Somewhat similarly (but maybe a little more agriculturally :)) I turned a hollow nylon plug with an interference fit both on the gearstick and the knob. Press fits in place nice and firmly.

paulak
19th February 2014, 07:31 PM
Gday rar110 they are a 255/85 R16.

cinan
19th February 2014, 09:15 PM
Gday rar110 they are a 255/85 R16.
have you worked out the difference in the speedo and odometer with the larger diameter tyre/wheel combo ?

mattmac
20th February 2014, 11:07 AM
Are the glow plugs actually connected on the perenties - mine has keyed ignition so assume not- can't see any need for them unless in the snow.

weeds
20th February 2014, 12:07 PM
Are the glow plugs actually connected on the perenties - mine has keyed ignition so assume not- can't see any need for them unless in the snow.

Yes they do......not sure on the keyed version

Not really needed but do come in handy if the battery is a little flat and it's cold.

paulak
22nd February 2014, 03:38 PM
Gday cinan, The speedo is now correct. It was 10 km out at 100km/h. The odometer is now about 500 m to 1 km out over 100km. It was out about 7km per hundred. Seeya . Paul.

juddy
23rd February 2014, 08:21 PM
Added a few new stencils and refitted jack and tools and went for a drive in the woods.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/156.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0084_zpsbd28dfa2.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/157.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0097_zps018ea94e.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/158.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0082_zps6e85845a.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/159.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0077_zpsedd2caac.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/160.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0075_zps2a87d235.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/161.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0078_zpscfef12bd.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/162.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0085_zps1ad48388.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/163.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0081_zpsa2d1732e.jpg.html)

mattmac
23rd February 2014, 09:43 PM
What motivated you to put that stencil on your air vent flap-strange? Nice looking perentie though.

juddy
24th February 2014, 07:39 AM
What motivated you to put that stencil on your air vent flap-strange? Nice looking perentie though.

I suppose the answer is, because I can! No other reason...

Barefoot Dave
24th February 2014, 09:10 AM
The modification of an ex-defence vehicle (or any equipment for that matter) is a personal thing. Many here appreciate the vehicle as a base for modification and others want to keep them pristine. Many are in between.
Juddy has made a few small mods that wrankle with the preservationists.
We never had markings on the vehicles that identified the unit or tac plates.
As an ex-member of 51 FNQR, I don't take offence to anything Juddy has done to the vehicle.
In fact, when I saw the Motto stencil the other day, I got a warm and fuzzy deep down [happycry] (translation: The Love of My Country Leads Me)
I take it as a small tribute to those of us who have served and a bit of education to others about the people and vehicles history.
My 2c worth.

juddy
24th February 2014, 02:47 PM
The modification of an ex-defence vehicle (or any equipment for that matter) is a personal thing. Many here appreciate the vehicle as a base for modification and others want to keep them pristine. Many are in between.
Juddy has made a few small mods that wrankle with the preservationists.
We never had markings on the vehicles that identified the unit or tac plates.
As an ex-member of 51 FNQR, I don't take offence to anything Juddy has done to the vehicle.
In fact, when I saw the Motto stencil the other day, I got a warm and fuzzy deep down [happycry] (translation: The Love of My Country Leads Me)
I take it as a small tribute to those of us who have served and a bit of education to others about the people and vehicles history.
My 2c worth.

Well said Dave, like we have said before 90% plus of new Perentie owners will be modifying theres to suit there requirements and taste, its a free world..

I have see in service ones with unit Id on the TAC plate , but never 51FNQ, but then again I have never see any of 51FNQ land rovers before this one.

I thought the Motto was at least fitting for where this vehicle served, and it at least means something, to those who know..

mattmac
24th February 2014, 06:28 PM
Wasn't expecting such a big reaction- just wondering what it was all about. No big deal.

Barefoot Dave
24th February 2014, 10:07 PM
No big deal, here either Matt. No caps lock used ;)
We have both come across strong views seperately and I like to take the time to explain mine.
As for Juddy, he does enjoy a stir at times, but not in this case.
Cheers,

mattmac
25th February 2014, 01:32 PM
No worries Dave-i wasn't trying to have a go at Juddy -i was just wondering why he put it on his vehicle. I just reckon if you're going to post pics etc on a forum then you have to expect people to respond-whether it be positive or negative- i was neither of these.

mattmac
27th February 2014, 07:20 PM
I finally got around to replacing my fuel pump primer which would leak badly during priming - i had planned to get one of those bosch ones which many people recommend but came across a more robust looking one by Trucktec(Made in Germany) for $30 on ebay. Getting the original zexel one off wasn't easy -super-tight and confined space to get large spanner in there-used vice grips in the end to get it started. Thought it would be a good time to replace the fuel filter - the Fleetguard FF5030 is quite a bit smaller than genuine isuzu. Probably should have filled filter with fuel first as needed some serious priming to get all the air out.

paulak
1st March 2014, 10:29 AM
Gday dingsy. Some photos of how the spare fits.

dingsy
1st March 2014, 05:02 PM
Gday dingsy. Some photos of how the spare fits.

Thanks Paulak! Great to see a 255 fitting in there.

mattmac
2nd March 2014, 10:07 PM
This is a pic of my fuel tank selector valve on the RFSV -Does anyone know which of the hoses on the left side of pic is the fuel feed and return . I know you'd think it would be a simple case of following the lines up to the fuel pump but they disappear along the chassis rail where i can't see or get my hand to feel along the line. The reason i ask is because i was going to install a inline filter pre-fuel pump and the only suitable place is just after selector valve.

usi
3rd March 2014, 10:49 AM
This is a pic of my fuel tank selector valve on the RFSV -Does anyone know which of the hoses on the left side of pic is the fuel feed and return . I know you'd think it would be a simple case of following the lines up to the fuel pump but they disappear along the chassis rail where i can't see or get my hand to feel along the line. The reason i ask is because i was going to install a inline filter pre-fuel pump and the only suitable place is just after selector valve.


Ive been researching for my 2nd tank and the Pollak valve manual states 3/8 for Supply and 5/16 for the return

Any chance of some more photos of the routing ect next time your under there? I cant quite pick where that is located

lucas.armstrong.77
3rd March 2014, 08:53 PM
73671
Driving LEDs

lucas.armstrong.77
3rd March 2014, 09:17 PM
73676

cinan
3rd March 2014, 09:47 PM
Lucas, Nice looking Snr Commander you have there. What are the tyre/wheel combo's you are running ?

lucas.armstrong.77
4th March 2014, 07:23 AM
Thanks, running Mickie Thompson mtz 33" 285/75R16 on sunnrasias, could probably do with a slight bit of a lift but

cinan
4th March 2014, 11:14 AM
I assume that the spare fits underneath ok, what does it do to your speedo/odo ?

cinan
4th March 2014, 11:16 AM
Have you put power steering in or how does the standard steering work with the bigger tyres or do you just end up going to the gym more ?

lucas.armstrong.77
4th March 2014, 12:04 PM
Currently still have the old tyre as a spare, couldn't afford 5 mts, I think it has probably added 0.5L/100kms to fuel however, still no power steering, saving money on gym membership by not installing power steering, if the cash was handy would suggest a couple inches of lift to go with larger tyres but





100kms

DirtyDog
4th March 2014, 04:57 PM
WOW!!!! Can not believe how good those 33's look! Just make such a difference. Easily the best Perentie I've seen yet, except the special force 6x6 one's in army pics :D.... Where abouts did you get the sunraysia rims in a 5x165? I want to get my stock ones off as soon as possible as they are brand new with brand new xlz's and after seeing what people are charging on eBay for them, I'll keep them as an investment. Plus the sunraysia looks just so much better. really impressed and finally get to see one actually off road and dirty. Great photo!!

rar110
4th March 2014, 09:27 PM
Driving LEDs
Nice

Which LEDs did u buy?

lucas.armstrong.77
5th March 2014, 06:30 AM
Thanks a heap! Makes the effort a bit more worth it :) the sunraysias oneills has in stock so was quite easy, still not sure whether I should paint the rims olive green, the LEDs are tigerz11 brand, work really well and am happy with how they turned out
Also first time on the forum so g'day and I've got lots more photos to upload of some adventures

usi
8th March 2014, 06:26 PM
Picked up a few parts needed for a secondary tank project on the go

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/974.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/WP_20140308_12_20_55_Smart.jpg.html)

mattmac
12th March 2014, 10:23 PM
my temp and fuel gauges had been playing up in last few weeks- then worked out the problem by accident after turning dimmer switch on blackout switch - in certain positions it would make my temp gauge suddenly rise and fuel gauge drop-must be a bad earth somewhere.

Sea_Dog
13th March 2014, 01:41 PM
Hey guys about to start an epic journey to bring my perentie from cairns to perth going around the gulf through normanton and then up to darwin to have a look around then down the gibb river road to derby and track the coast all the way to perth I've got 6 weeks to complete the journey and should be awesome with plenty of pictures to get along the way but I have a few things to do to the old girl before i set out one of which is to put a snorkel on her I'm currently away at work and was hoping somebody could do me a great favour and scan a template of the air intake plate on top of the drivers side wing and give me the pipe diameter size and an angle in relation to the center of the pipe to where it should point on the window. Cheers guys. :D

mattmac
13th March 2014, 03:44 PM
what about doing one similar to the RFSV then you don't need to butcher your front guard- I've seen ones fabricated with stainless piping and look great.

Sea_Dog
13th March 2014, 05:07 PM
what about doing one similar to the RFSV then you don't need to butcher your front guard- I've seen ones fabricated with stainless piping and look great.

Thats the plan matt just need a template of the plate which goes in the guard like the one in the link below will make same shape plate with stub pipe on both sides.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb102/rijidij/Misc/LandyVent.jpg

mattmac
13th March 2014, 08:44 PM
sorry-i didn't read your initial post properly.

mattmac
14th March 2014, 01:07 PM
why don't you just remove the existing plastic grill cover and use that as a template?

Sea_Dog
15th March 2014, 10:21 AM
I'm out at sea mate so not possible.:D

Sea_Dog
15th March 2014, 10:32 AM
Murray from Rijidij has sorted me out so I'm in business

oowa
16th March 2014, 06:34 PM
Just drove mine home today from Corowa to Sydney 630km, 3 of us sitting up front,,,top drive.

dan2090
20th March 2014, 06:06 PM
Added some simple mods just to make a little more 'livable' as I drive my beloved Perentie every day.

- Headlight surrounds
- Removed Bullbar replaced with mod-defender steel bumper (ground off bottom lip to fit)
- Removed bonnet tool mounts, fitted chequer-plate to cover holes/scuffs
- Added zips to canvas sides (prevents getting soaked with canvas up)

74443

Next:
- Safari Snorkel
- XD9000 Winch

juddy
20th March 2014, 07:50 PM
Looks more mod like now

dan2090
22nd March 2014, 01:51 PM
74567

XD9000 winch mounted.

oowa
22nd March 2014, 08:15 PM
Every owners opinion, just not mine.
got to love forums


cheers
Bruce McCann

G.I.BO
25th March 2014, 06:30 PM
Made these bad boys this afternoon so I can have a stereo without cutting big ugly holes in my perentie

mattmac
25th March 2014, 06:48 PM
That's classic-about to fit a stereo myself and been wondering where I'll- mount it - probably under dash but that's some seriously impressive handywork.

Barefoot Dave
25th March 2014, 08:47 PM
GI Bo, that is some seriously cool work!
You could make some money making those.

G.I.BO
25th March 2014, 09:04 PM
it was quite easy, i just cut the holes with a grinder i borrowed from work. mounted one either side mid-way in the back this afternoon. going to put the other two behind the seats in the front and the big box with the head and cigarette lighter/12v socket in between the seats facing the front of the car. will post some picks when it is up and running (the head is the old cassette player from the jackaroo i use to drive. hope the old man still has the code for it otherwise its pretty much useless haha) i got the boxes from my local depo store, small ones were $15 the larger is a box from some night vision goggles, so it is lined with foam on the inside, it cost $45.

G.I.BO
26th March 2014, 04:47 PM
All done and working

atwood
26th March 2014, 05:42 PM
Working on the box (marine ply) to fit between the seats to do EXACTLY what you have done.... never thought of finding a container to re-use. Have also had to remove rifle cleats and fittings - Bundy the border collie complained of inhibited access between rear and passenger seat!

isuzutoo-eh
28th March 2014, 12:30 PM
Saw my FFR for the first time last night! Took it for a one minute long sprint in the pelting rain, such a beasty truck :)
Tail lights don't work but all other systems are good.
Now to clean the armourall crap that AFM coat everything with, Barefoot Dave is coming to visit in a few hours for a chinwag then tomorrow morning start the drive back to Sydney from Brisvegas.
So many thanks to gromit68 for picking my Landy up from the auctions and for being such awesome friends!

rar110
28th March 2014, 06:35 PM
Saw my FFR for the first time last night! Took it for a one minute long sprint in the pelting rain, such a beasty truck :) Tail lights don't work but all other systems are good. Now to clean the armourall crap that AFM coat everything with, Barefoot Dave is coming to visit in a few hours for a chinwag then tomorrow morning start the drive back to Sydney from Brisvegas. So many thanks to gromit68 for picking my Landy up from the auctions and for being such awesome friends!

My tail lights join the loom via bullet connectors. The connectors had dirt & mud inside. If yours are the same, pull them apart and give them a clean.

juddy
29th March 2014, 08:29 AM
Big Job, Not

Fitted the High-Lift Jack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/185.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0799_zps944df1ba.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/186.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/Screenshot2014-03-27at81333PM_zps39ececa0.png.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/187.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0800_zpsac832966.jpg.html)

lucas.armstrong.77
29th March 2014, 09:16 AM
Just ordered a new slave cylinder as I had somehow lost an o ring inside?!
That jack mount also looks really good! Nice

isuzutoo-eh
3rd April 2014, 07:45 AM
Replaced the congealed peanut oil that the gearbox was filled with, with RX Super. What a difference that has made to gear changes! Transfer gets the same treatment today...
First thing any ex-mil 110 owner should do is put decent fluids in it.

usi
3rd April 2014, 03:09 PM
Good time to strip the sedimenter while your under there

dingsy
3rd April 2014, 04:06 PM
Replaced the congealed peanut oil that the gearbox was filled with, with RX Super. What a difference that has made to gear changes! Transfer gets the same treatment today... First thing any ex-mil 110 owner should do is put decent fluids in it.

Yeah I did the transfer case and gearbox a few weeks ago with RX Super, huge difference. With the PTO there needed something like 10L total!

isuzutoo-eh
9th April 2014, 01:32 PM
Yeah I did the transfer case and gearbox a few weeks ago with RX Super, huge difference. With the PTO there needed something like 10L total!

Hmm 10 litres is no joke! Geez my arm got tired on the oil transfer pump!

My FFR also now has door locks and ignition locks, all battery cells have been topped up, some cleaning of the canvas has been done, played with the spare wheel winch to know how it works.

I have put the smart charger on the first of the four batteries, this could be a slow process to get them all up to condition. I am concerned about one of the dried cells as the plates looked very distorted/expanded/corroded. I suspect it won't hold a charge on that battery.

Are the 24V battery banks charged if the circuit breaker is switched off?

bond
9th April 2014, 02:29 PM
One of these arrived from the states - Deluxe Stereo Security Console in Gray, fits 76-95 Jeep (http://www.ruggedridge.com/stereo-security-console-gray-76-95-jeep-cj-wrangler.html)
Available on ebay for ~$150au shipped. Was the cheapest option I could find for a steel/lockable centre console, I felt it wasn't worth paying four times that amount for one that is a few inches wider.

Angle grinded off the section for the cup holders and now its the perfect length. Just fabbing up a new plate to go beneath it and will add pictures soon.

Anyone have tips on where to go to find galv c channel similar to what Juddy has behind his bullbar (I'm keen to mount my hilift in the same way).
I think the internal width would be about 25mm, yet the few places I've looked at smallest galv channel they stock is 75mm.
Other option is I get some 30mm box and plasma cut it in half :eek:

isuzutoo-eh
10th April 2014, 02:24 PM
I really was looking forward to getting a 110 with unmolested wiring. The wiring is the worst thing about my County.

So I was more than a little disappointed when going through the fuses earlier today. All bar one of the fuses are 20 ampere rated. That's more than double the correct rating, sometimes eight times higher rated!
Of course, the one different fuse is 30A! For right hand low beam- Should be 8A!
I really hope the wiring and connectors are up to it or it'd be a fire waiting to happen.
*Mutters something about RAEME 'craftsmen'*

usi
10th April 2014, 04:05 PM
Whoa!!! Out of interest is it the original glass fuses or newer blades?

I did have a few "well that's just a bit ****" discoveries but that is up there!

isuzutoo-eh
10th April 2014, 04:19 PM
Stupid bloody glass cartridge fuses. It's an '88 model, Lucas obviously hadn't managed to get blade fuses to not work as they should that early in the piece...

Sea_Dog
12th April 2014, 02:47 PM
Does anybody have a wiring diagram for a GS cheers.

Trraca
13th April 2014, 08:08 PM
Stupid bloody glass cartridge fuses. It's an '88 model, Lucas obviously hadn't managed to get blade fuses to not work as they should that early in the piece...

I've also just acquired an '88 model GS and have the same problem. All mine are either 15 or 20 amp (I've been told you can no longer buy 8 amp). Not only that but half the warning lights don't work although the actual operations do, e.g. the CDL works but the light doesn't, all the lights work but the main beam warning doesn't, the ignition light doesn't work but the battery is fully charged and is charging at about 14 volts. The wiring is new and the rear harness is beautifully finished but the front harness is a mares nest of unwrapped wires.

My guess is that it was going through a major update (extensive new replacements, such as gearbox and transfer case and all the front end etc) when the decision to change fleets was made and they were told to stop and just connect what was required to meet the blue slip requirements.

Does anybody else get this feeling?

Its going to cost me some auto electrician time but is still a bargain with all the newly replaced gear and I'm loving driving a good, down to earth, Landie again. The engine's great and the ride is very comfortable compared with the old Series 2s. Wouldn't change it for quids!

cheers

Trraca

atwood
15th April 2014, 08:35 PM
I'm with Trraca... we collected from Minto at the same time and I am extremely happy to be driving my GS.
I got lucky with the electrics, blade fuses - all correct and even some spares. I do have some interesting drive train noises though, and I occasionally need to send a search party to find second gear. I will sort out a switch problem on the headlight circuit and I am sure there will be more issues to deal with.
Was concerned about accuracy of the fuel gauge - but I was wrong - she really did use less than 10L/100K on the trip home ... OK it was country driving - but the Putty road is no freeway!

isuzutoo-eh
16th April 2014, 08:39 AM
I sorted my electrics a bit better, the two fuse banks were swapped over, that was easily sorted, the fuses are all the correct rating now, in fact it it off to get a roadworthy certificate at the moment...bloke was worried about the antenna mounts being dangerous to pedestrians but thankfully they are nice and smooth, helped to mention that the Army still has to comply with the road rules and ADRs so it is all legal, will see what funny ideas he comes up with this arvo...

juddy
17th April 2014, 08:27 AM
A note on ADR, military vehicles do not have to comply with ADR.

isuzutoo-eh
17th April 2014, 09:10 AM
A note on ADR, military vehicles do not have to comply with ADR.

:o Don't tell that to the bloke doing the safety inspection :twisted:

Isn't the compliance plate better termed an ADR compliance plate? Or are you talking about conditional registration machines like tanks and fork lifts...and not Land Rovers?



Anyway, in other news, I pop-riveted some yellow number plates to my FFR this morning. The only painful part of the process was the wallet bleed.

Feels much more ponderous and solid than my County, and such harsh suspension...but the engine is fresh, a '94 block so obviously not original!

It's a fat barstard too, put it over the weighbridge with 3/4 tank of fuel, bottle jack and a few blocks of wood for wheel chocks, came in at 2480kg! My County's listed tare is only 2040kg despite the glass and roof!
A whole lot of bull bar, winch, batteries and generator!

weeds
17th April 2014, 12:27 PM
A note on ADR, military vehicles do not have to comply with ADR.

In service life or civvy life??

Do you have a reference??

juddy
17th April 2014, 08:19 PM
In service life or civvy life??

Do you have a reference??

In service.

G.I.BO
21st April 2014, 11:16 AM
on the weekend i put my key in and when i turned it, Nothing. i traced the problem to the starter motor, cleaned all the ends of the leads as there was a bit of rust stopping the contact and got it going. i have just given them all a proper clean with a wire brush and not the car turns over but wont start? any ideas what this could be? thankyou

isuzutoo-eh
21st April 2014, 08:54 PM
FFR owners take note!

If your radio batteries are of unknown condition, be very very careful. I topped up the water in mine the other day when I got it, and this evening, after a long drive, I noticed the battery bay was hot when everything else was cold. I am lucky to have noticed and not have a burnt out wreck! Batteries have since been isolated, and i'll pull them all out tomorrow for proper testing and probable replacement.

Jeff
21st April 2014, 09:07 PM
It's a fat barstard too, put it over the weighbridge with 3/4 tank of fuel, bottle jack and a few blocks of wood for wheel chocks, came in at 2480kg! My County's listed tare is only 2040kg despite the glass and roof!
A whole lot of bull bar, winch, batteries and generator!

Not forgetting the ROPS, I think a lot of the weight is there.

Jeff

:rocket:

Mick_Marsh
21st April 2014, 11:28 PM
In service.
If that is the case, what is the point of fitting compliance plates in the first place?

Mick_Marsh
21st April 2014, 11:33 PM
FFR owners take note!

If your radio batteries are of unknown condition, be very very careful. I topped up the water in mine the other day when I got it, and this evening, after a long drive, I noticed the battery bay was hot when everything else was cold. I am lucky to have noticed and not have a burnt out wreck! Batteries have since been isolated, and i'll pull them all out tomorrow for proper testing and probable replacement.
Let us know what you find.

isuzutoo-eh
22nd April 2014, 07:53 AM
on the weekend i put my key in and when i turned it, Nothing. i traced the problem to the starter motor, cleaned all the ends of the leads as there was a bit of rust stopping the contact and got it going. i have just given them all a proper clean with a wire brush and not the car turns over but wont start? any ideas what this could be? thankyou

This sounds like a problem with the engine stop solenoid, or power to it. Do a search for EDIC motor in the Isuzu Landy enthusiast section for more information on that gadget.
On top of the injector pump should be two levers, one is the accelerator, the other the engine stop-this is the one closest to the side of the car/further away from the engine. If the EDIC motor stops working for whatever reason, then it will hold the stop lever in the 'off' position.
Hope that helps...

LandroverScott
22nd April 2014, 06:22 PM
This sounds like a problem with the engine stop solenoid, or power to it. Do a search for EDIC motor in the Isuzu Landy enthusiast section for more information on that gadget.
On top of the injector pump should be two levers, one is the accelerator, the other the engine stop-this is the one closest to the side of the car/further away from the engine. If the EDIC motor stops working for whatever reason, then it will hold the stop lever in the 'off' position.
Hope that helps...

Also check the fuse on fire wall on the drivers side close to the edge of the wing.

rust
24th April 2014, 05:00 PM
2 weeks of 4x4 FFR ownership and yesterday I got around to joining AULRO coz I hear you're a good bunch of crew that is full of brake replacement tips - Gidday again!!! I've probably even waved to some of you.

Here's more about thee neww Perenteee... So far I've pulled out all the radio gear, ripped out the rear seats and hosed the back out, stripped the aerial mounts, 3 x batteries given away to mates, 24v generator came out real easy and donated to a buddy on a farm who is going to create a hydro electric power station, motor bay was degreased, cockpit and undercarraige were pressure cleaned, canvas was removed, washed, properly re-aligned and canvas waxed; Bodywork was rubbed with lanolin while the inner doors and cockpit floor were injected with fish oil.

Today I gave the undercarraige an anti-rust cocktail of sump oil, penetrol and fish oil so that the truck is ready for regular beach launching of the boat. The whole underside and every available opening got absolutely blasted till I was dripping like a basted chook. Then I drilled 2 holes in the firewall and pumped it with 100% fish oil.

Next on the list is an oil and filter change - never done it before on diesel so I'm hoping the Donaldon P554022 and PP550057 are the right oil and fuel; filters for the 4BD1 coz thats what I bought.

Have fun!!!

Rust

mattmac
24th April 2014, 06:44 PM
your perentie should have a galvanised chassis so all that work with spraying chassis etc to prevent rust shouldn't be necessary.

Mick_Marsh
24th April 2014, 07:12 PM
your perentie should have a galvanised chassis so all that work with spraying chassis etc to prevent rust shouldn't be necessary.
Maybe not necessary but advisable. Salt water is nasty stuff. Galvanised metal still can rust.

mark2
24th April 2014, 07:32 PM
Not to mention axle housings, brake backing plates, fuel tank etc.
Make sure you get fishoil or lanolin etc in between the fuel tank protection plate and the bottom of the tank. Also the lower door frames are hollow steel sections and need to be sprayed internally. Dont forget the bonnet frame also. Undo a screw on each door hinge at the firewall mount and go in from there. The ribs in the footwells are double skinned and need a small hole drilled to treat properly.

rust
25th April 2014, 07:27 PM
Thanks for the door hinge and footwell tips Mark2. I'll get onto it.
Cheers
rust

AIF
25th April 2014, 08:13 PM
Well I found out that the scum sucking so and so that sold me my Personell Carrier had done ANOTHER dodgy. Had it up on the hoist for the first time and there was a rag around the crankcase breather pipe. Well it was taken off and after not using a drop of oil in the last 7000kn in a 700km trip yesterday it used HALF DIPSTICK of oil. Looks like it needs another rag on it.
Iwill be doing a full post on how I have been ripped off by this private seller so that anyone else can think twice before buying from him.:censored:

rar110
25th April 2014, 08:17 PM
I don't know why it would breath so much oil. Ive fitted a prevent which drains back into the crank. Its really just a oil catcher at the moment. Buts its a possibility for your problem.

rar110
25th April 2014, 08:24 PM
Not to mention axle housings, brake backing plates, fuel tank etc.
Make sure you get fishoil or lanolin etc in between the fuel tank protection plate and the bottom of the tank. Also the lower door frames are hollow steel sections and need to be sprayed internally. Dont forget the bonnet frame also. Undo a screw on each door hinge at the firewall mount and go in from there. The ribs in the footwells are double skinned and need a small hole drilled to treat properly.

If you do a bit of beach work like me, this is singularly the best bit of maintenance advice. Its so easy to do, only two screws each side. I use a product called corrosion block. My firewall is mostly galled (other than pass side A pillar as needed to repair it after being dipped) but still spray it around.

Do this once a year and your fire wall will be rust free. Ive drilled several holes in my door frames to spray the same stuff about. Spraying some type of rust inhibiter is also a really good idea. Corrosion block or another type of penetrating oil for between the steel frame and skin will definitely help with alloy corrosion.

juddy
26th April 2014, 09:02 AM
Went for a ANZAC day drive

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/202.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/ANZAC%20DAY/DSC_0832_zpsb992be6d.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/203.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/ANZAC%20DAY/DSC_0833_zps5f212985.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/204.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/ANZAC%20DAY/DSC_0838_zpsb8b3379c.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/205.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/ANZAC%20DAY/DSC_0840_zps0cff5ed1.jpg.html)

bond
27th April 2014, 01:07 PM
Replaced both H4 base's as ground terminals were gone on both :eek:
Also found the 'mod' the keeps headlights on after ignition off

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/185.jpg (http://imgur.com/jvzXhPC)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/186.jpg (http://imgur.com/d8rMuGF)

cinan
27th April 2014, 05:29 PM
Finally got around to changing the oil. I did the engine and gearbox today with Caltex RX Super and a Donaldson Oil Filter. (P550422) For those interested the oil filter was $35 from Repco and the oil was $95 for 20l from Super Cheap at the 20% off sale last week.

Can someone help with a photo of where the drain and fill plugs are on the transfer case, I spent a lot of time looking for the plug and comparing to drawings in the workshop manual but I can't find it anywhere (it must be there !!). Is the same drain and fill on the TC used for the PTO as well or is this separate again ?

Andrew.

DeeJay
27th April 2014, 06:10 PM
Finally got around to changing the oil. I did the engine and gearbox today with Caltex RX Super and a Donaldson Oil Filter. (P550422) For those interested the oil filter was $35 from Repco and the oil was $95 for 20l from Super Cheap at the 20% off sale last week.

Can someone help with a photo of where the drain and fill plugs are on the transfer case, I spent a lot of time looking for the plug and comparing to drawings in the workshop manual but I can't find it anywhere (it must be there !!). Is the same drain and fill on the TC used for the PTO as well or is this separate again ?

Andrew.


If you changed the gearbox oil, the fill for the transfer is on the rear of the housing, with the drain on the transfer cover plate. The PTO is part of the transfer box

cinan
27th April 2014, 06:16 PM
I thought they were different as specified in the manual and there are different capacities of oil specified for the GB and TC and TC with PTO ?

cinan
27th April 2014, 06:22 PM
In the manual it specifies the Gearbox capacity as 2.7ltrs, Transfer Case as 3.2ltrs and Transfer Case with PTO as 5.8ltrs.

DeeJay
30th April 2014, 07:46 PM
In the manual it specifies the Gearbox capacity as 2.7ltrs, Transfer Case as 3.2ltrs and Transfer Case with PTO as 5.8ltrs.



Yes, the gearbox & transfer on the LT95 are combined in the one housing with an oil seal to keep them separate. The gearbox filler is on the passenger side of the housing, the transfer filler on the rear. The additional litres for a transfer with PTO is due to a bigger sump.

Cliffy
1st May 2014, 09:43 PM
What did I do on my Perentie today.......I bought it!:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p: eek:

DeeJay
1st May 2014, 10:00 PM
What did I do on my Perentie today.......I bought it!:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p: eek:



Me too..:D. It got delivered yesterday. Pics to follow when the monthly bandwidth allowance resets tomorrow night- teenagers manage to get through 100,000 MB some months.

DeeJay
1st May 2014, 11:08 PM
Here are the pics,
What I will be doing is fitting a heater, bonnet ( I have both) & fixing the electrics to the rear end, as they have been severed. Also it appears to have an oil leak either from the timing chain cover or front main seal. Other than that I got lucky as it runs & the winch works, new battery, good tyres, canopy and seats & the doors shut nicely:D
Cost me $4750 by the time it was delivered..


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1309.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1310.jpg

Mick_Marsh
2nd May 2014, 12:38 AM
Here are the pics,
What I will be doing is fitting a heater, bonnet ( I have both) & fixing the electrics to the rear end, as they have been severed. Also it appears to have an oil leak either from the timing chain cover or front main seal. Other than that I got lucky as it runs & the winch works, new battery, good tyres, canopy and seats & the doors shut nicely:D
Cost me $4750 by the time it was delivered..


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1309.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1310.jpg
That's a nice looking canopy. Why did thet wreck that one? With a few bits from a parter it would probably have been a complete unit.

Barefoot Dave
2nd May 2014, 06:38 AM
One could surmise that the 'bits and pieces', surplus to requirement and NER vehicles have been exhausted and AFM are preparing for a large volume of, immediately ex-service, vehicles to arrive.
If you live near Holsworthy you might see an awful lot of shiny MBs driving around instead of 110s.
My opinion only.

DeeJay
2nd May 2014, 08:43 AM
That's a nice looking canopy. Why did thet wreck that one? With a few bits from a parter it would probably have been a complete unit.



My thinking exactly.:)
The main worry with this vehicle ( the Army's , not mine) is the electrics, the loom to the rear has been cut & pulled through the chassis & you can see it hanging on the rear bar. I figured it had been put in the "too hard" basket so I bid on it. I have most of the parts - & time- to bring this back into service.
I could have waited a few more months & probably got a goer for another couple of grand or less, but I was getting impatient.
The service books say that it has done 15,000 klm since 2003, a total of 132,000 and it has a new Capo number, so I assume it's been reworked.
A question for Barefoot Dave.
If the logbook says " Predeployment check carried out" in Nov 2003 but a new clutch fitted in Dec 2004 with only another 131 klm on the speedo, then I guess it was never deployed, & I assume that means overseas?


Cheers, David

Aussie Jeepster
2nd May 2014, 12:50 PM
That's a nice looking canopy. Why did thet wreck that one? With a few bits from a parter it would probably have been a complete unit.
Judging by the rego, that is an RAAF Perentie. Mine is 231194 and also has 2 sets of entries in the books for pre and post deployment - but no mention of where!!!!

rust
4th May 2014, 06:18 AM
Yesterday I did the engine oil and Donaldson filter with RX Super but just like Cinan, I'm not 100% confident on the correct TC and GB drain and fill plug locations from the manual so I'm holding off. I'm still trying to figure out what a PTO is and if a FFR has one... (Yep - I'm an idiot)

Thanks to DeeJay for explaining but a photo of the right spots would confirm what I think DeeJay is saying.

Today I'm going to attempt to change the fuel filter. Never had diesel or bled fuel before so that's going to be a new learning too. It's funny coz with my old RRC there's youtube clips on virtually everything but with the Perentie and even the 4BD1, instructional and maintenance videos are impossible to find so basic jobs seem to take 300 times longer due to a lack of confidence.

isuzutoo-eh
4th May 2014, 07:13 AM
A PTO is a power take off. If your FFR has a winch, it'll be driven by the PTO, if no winch, no PTO.

When changing the fuel filter on my County I have never needed to bleed it, just switched her on and she ran.

Bushy049
5th May 2014, 07:48 AM
What did I do on my Perentie today.......I bought it!:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p: eek:

You finally got one Cliffy, well done. When it's back in Wa you must let me come and drool over it I'm very jealous

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

G.I.BO
6th May 2014, 06:46 AM
Made a bed frame. Can roll the slats up when not in use

Cliffy
6th May 2014, 10:43 AM
Any time bushy.

DBT
7th May 2014, 06:08 AM
Made a bed frame. Can roll the slats up when not in use

Interesting. I was thinking of a solid panel instead of slats, to level the floor and create more storage space.

How did you mount them? I see the timber rails. How are they secured to the tub?

G.I.BO
7th May 2014, 10:49 AM
I just used some tec screws

DirtyDog
10th May 2014, 09:57 PM
Removed winch, so I can strip paint and polish it. While it was off i stripped it right down, took all the internals out so i can replace the 3 gaskets and the seal, re-grease the clutch end, also replace all bolts excepts high tensile ones holding gear, should be like brand new again... removed bull-bar and started sandblasting ready for paint...
If anyone would like any photos of winch internals, yell out...

DeeJay
10th May 2014, 10:26 PM
I just fitted the door & ignition locks. I posted it up as a tutorial in case anyone thinks it is complicated. Dead easy job..


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2143417#post2143417

G.I.BO
17th May 2014, 11:11 AM
Hooked up some batteries today

G.I.BO
17th May 2014, 11:29 AM
dose anybody know if the PDO is used as in inverter? ro will i have to buy one separately? i priced one the other day. roughly 800 smacks

lmurko
18th May 2014, 05:56 PM
I spent last night on a mates property and finally got to see what 49191 can do!
we took down a few trees for his dad, to make a new track, used the perentie of course, not a scratch on her! cant say the same for the trees though. thats my cousin in the drivers seat here, he jumped in it as soon as i jumped out to get that shot (picture 2)
took her along their track that every other 4wd has been bogged on, she didnt skip a beat. (picture 1, at the top of the hill)
and finally had to use it to tow a mates hilux up a hill so we can get home (should have just left him there lol) and again didnt even feel the weight, sadly i couldnt get a picture of that one though

Cheers,
Lachlan

Cliffy
21st May 2014, 09:49 PM
I picked mine up from the car transporters today and took Spanner Roo 1 home! Love it!
As it turned out Spanner Roo is an Iraq vet serving with AUSCDT3 (1 of 4 rovers they had).
Heaps of in service pics due to a "photo op" during some port operations.
Chear to Dodge1942 for putting me onto the car and Tommy for the in serv pics.

cinan
25th May 2014, 09:18 PM
Currently still have the old tyre as a spare, couldn't afford 5 mts, I think it has probably added 0.5L/100kms to fuel however, still no power steering, saving money on gym membership by not installing power steering, if the cash was handy would suggest a couple inches of lift to go with larger tyres but





100kms

Lucas, How are you going to go with the standard as a spare when it is about 60-70mm shorter in diameter than the 33's you are running. It won't even touch the ground in my calc's if you are using it with 3 33's ?

Barefoot Dave
26th May 2014, 07:48 AM
Cinan, the standard tyre is near as damn to 32", so a 33" isn't going to leave 60-70mm drop. Even if it did the vehicle would lean over and touch the ground. It is heavy duty suspension, not race spec ;)

lucas.armstrong.77
26th May 2014, 09:57 PM
Was my exact reasoning, am just going to have to keep looking for a cheap second hand 33

lucas.armstrong.77
28th May 2014, 08:42 AM
7786977870778717787277873
Went for a drive around Kurri on the weekend

Barefoot Dave
28th May 2014, 03:26 PM
Sweeet!
That's the hardest work a Senior Commander has done since the trials!!
Great to see.
Thanks

lmurko
29th May 2014, 08:00 AM
Mr armstrong, i think i need your photographer to come with me on some of my trips. Good job

Cheers, lachlan

DBT
29th May 2014, 03:20 PM
Riveted my number plates on. Upgraded from cable ties.


Baby steps for me. :)

rust
31st May 2014, 01:09 PM
After much appreciated Aulro deliberation and discussion (and a measurement of the drum in my garage) I put RX Super in the Gearbox and Transfer Case.

Heaps smoother and quieter than that brown army stuff that came out of the plug holes.

oowa
2nd June 2014, 05:54 PM
Picked up my Landy after getting powersteering fitted. And also a new clutch slave cylinder.
Really enjoyed my drive home.


Bruce

juddy
12th June 2014, 06:34 AM
Fitted boat racks, and HAZ/Insulation kit. Which as greatly Improved the reduction in noise, some slight fiddly bits as mines got the higher rops, and I will need to loosen the boat racks to get the rear straps over the bar.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/965.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0920_zps56dacdd4.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/966.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0917_zps80ba6650.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/967.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0918_zpscfd2906a.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/968.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0916_zpscee5a28f.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/969.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Our%20Perentie/DSC_0913_zpsd326c25a.jpg.html)

Barefoot Dave
12th June 2014, 07:53 AM
Looking good, Juddy!

Aussie Jeepster
15th June 2014, 04:47 PM
Decided to organise the rego inspection this week, so did a quick onceover of the lights - had one headlight looking a little dim so decided to fit a new globe - WRONG!
Wiring and plug is melted around the 90/130 globe (I wonder why!) and the back literally fell off the headlight assembly :(
Tried 3 places for replacement headlight - none in stock so found a new set on fleabay from Narva. Will go looking for the replacement 3 pin plastic plug, but I suspect a fair amount of rewiring will be needed judging by the melted wire. Will also put in a high and low beam relay now that I have to.
Bugger!

lucas.armstrong.77
6th July 2014, 11:52 AM
79988
5 star accommodation
Perentie style

Dervish
6th July 2014, 01:06 PM
79988
5 star accommodation
Perentie style

This is how I have my Defender set up while travelling. Having spent several months sleeping back there all up now, I'm certain that there is just no better way to travel :)

Love the tiger skin, btw :angel:

lucas.armstrong.77
6th July 2014, 01:50 PM
Couldn't agree anymore,
Didn't get much say in the matter of tiger skin haha bed fits two :)

cinan
6th July 2014, 08:24 PM
Couldn't agree anymore,
Didn't get much say in the matter of tiger skin haha bed fits two :)

Lucas, have you put in a platform over the battery box and how have you supported it over the space when the rear seats are folded forward or have ou removed the rear seats ?

lucas.armstrong.77
7th July 2014, 08:13 AM
Lucas, have you put in a platform over the battery box and how have you supported it over the space when the rear seats are folded forward or have ou removed the rear seats ?


The boards sit straight on top of the battery box, with the handles of the box itself there prevent any damage or scratching, and I originally made a support for where the seat was but ended up not using it as the board is strong enough to support the both of us. 8003780038

DBT
7th July 2014, 11:28 AM
After reading up on handbrake cable replacement procedure, then waking through the night in a cold sweat, i have performed the following, "temporary field mod".

It's not pretty. But it has slightly improved cabin ergonomics, as i no longer need to hold the handbrake down with my left shin. :(

It does feature a quick release function, for the odd occasion when the handbrake is required.

neophyteguy
7th July 2014, 08:58 PM
Auxfire,
I'm wondering if your hitch mounts directly to the Chassis or if it has what looks like a plate mounted/welded on that the hitch mounts to?

I'm trying to figure out a way to get an adjustable hitch on my Perentie as it's currently too high for my needs ........

Cheers,
JRW

Switched over the pintle to a combination pintle/ball hitch.
Just need to sort out an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin & can tow anything :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/2.jpg

Rosco8
10th July 2014, 12:14 PM
Does anybody know where to get an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin or do you have to make one up ??

Mick_Marsh
10th July 2014, 03:07 PM
Does anybody know where to get an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin or do you have to make one up ??
They're not available pre made commercially. You'll have to make one up or buy one someone else has made. I made one up0 and also installed a socked on my Landrover.
The sockets do appear on ebay from time to time and I believe you can still buy them from Hella or Narva new.

Having said that, check out these guys:
http://www.cambridgetechnologies.com.au/nato-12-pin-trailer-connector-vg96923b3-12p

cinan
10th July 2014, 05:48 PM
Does anybody know where to get an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin or do you have to make one up ??

I looked at this option for a while to make my own adaptor but gave up based on the cost of the 12pin adaptor required. I instead just installed a metal Narva 7 pin connector underneath in the corner of the spare wheel and wired that into the appropriate circuits. works a treat and doesn't change the look of the back and the 12 pin is still available for a No 5 trailer. I just made up a 500mm cable with a 7 pin M/F connectors as an extension to get under to the plug. The standard black metal socket bracket from Narva also fits well and you just loosen the two bolts holding the rear number and the sockets fits on the back if you use slightly longer bolts. No drilling required.

Rosco8
10th July 2014, 06:09 PM
I instead just installed a metal Narva 7 pin connector underneath in the corner of the spare wheel and wired that into the appropriate circuits. works a treat and doesn't change the look of the back and the 12 pin is still available for a No 5 trailer.

Was my 1st thought, looks the easiest so yeh, will go this way. Thanks

oowa
14th July 2014, 04:38 PM
Land Rover At Sussex Inlet 2014 Photos by Ourshots | Photobucket (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/Ourshots/library/Land%20Rover%20at%20Sussex%20Inlet%202014?sort=3&page=1)


Went for a drive with a buddy in his 2A, he is now a coil sprung convert


Bruce

DBT
14th July 2014, 09:01 PM
Installed a remote engine immobiliser. Only took me 3 days and approx. 2kg worth of cable ties. :)

As a consequence of this particular immobiliser not liking the Perentie ignition sequence, I also now have a bonus "Push to Start" button. :cool:

The key start position is now just for "glowing" (if ever required).

I can now park the truck in shopping centres without the acute paranoia kicking in.

(The medication is also helping).

AIF
14th July 2014, 11:11 PM
Well I suppose there is allways the chance of a thief walking around with an Isolator lever as per army issue. (Hope not) I take mine out when not driving.

Rosco8
15th July 2014, 07:30 PM
Down to KLR in South Windsor today. Brad and his off-sider did a great job goin' over the FFR, fixing a stack of little things and installing power steering. She impressed me driving home, I was actually quite comfortable in the rain and cold, she kept me dry and relatively warm - though heaters aren't the best.

Looks like, touch wood I got one in relatively good nick, minor rust only and its a rebuild with low kms. Work done today:
- bushes needed replacing in the front
- 2 new clips on the canvas above the windscreen, yeh team no more cold wind coming in :D:D
- changed all the oils, pretty crappy stuff came out
- Power steering in .. what a pleasure to drive now :):)
- ignition and matching door locks in
- a few things loose that needed screws and bolts
- tightened side mirror
- back brakes still need attention but can wait till next visit
- half the dash lights don't work - but I know when I am doing 100kph by the bad wobble on the front right !!!
- canvas in pretty good condition but put on wrong by Frontline :twisted::twisted:. Brad redid the front canvas but I need to redo the back and stretch it more.

Tyres, Brad recommended I swap the 4 wheels/tyres off the trailers onto the FFR (I had one in the back as the spare). As he said any other brand than the originals are better !!! Lucky I have 2 trailers, brought the 2nd for the wheels, one has brand new tyres on it.

Bushy049
15th July 2014, 08:17 PM
Can I ask why people fit door locks on ffr and gs landys is it a peace of mind thing?? And what other things have people done, hidden battery isolators ect
Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

Bushy049
15th July 2014, 08:38 PM
Btw I totally understand if people want to be very general in there descriptions from a security point of view . I'm interested as I have been thinking about it as I plan on buying one of these in the near future. I hope

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

Mick_Marsh
15th July 2014, 08:51 PM
Bushy049, there seems to be some question as to it being an ADR requirement.
On the 4x4 Perenties, it seems to be such an easy thing to do, so why not do it to avoid any registration issues.
Having said that, I do realise the Minto ones have blue slips.
Me, personally, I will be fitting an ignition switch with a steering lock and door locks for security.

Rosco8
16th July 2014, 09:21 AM
Can I ask why people fit door locks on ffr and gs landys is it a peace of mind thing??

For me it was just an added level of security and since the ignition was being done the cost was minimal. Of course any body serious can still get in thru the back but if the canvas is all tied down it means an extra step, and time risk being seen and may deter the general hoon looking for some cash lying around the cab. I would like to put in one of those lockable consoles between the 2 seats to leave torches and other odds and sods that may work easily.

DBT
16th July 2014, 02:27 PM
Can I ask why people fit door locks on ffr and gs landys is it a peace of mind thing??

Def. peace of mind for me. Of course any security is defeat-able. The more security, the longer it takes to defeat it, generally speaking. and the less risk of "opportunistic" (lazy thief) incidents.

I'll be putting hours of labour into improving my truck. That (and emotional attachment) is something most insurers won't cover. I do have comp. insurance, but currently at "market value". I plan to change this, as I suspect this will give my insurer too much wriggle room in the event of a total loss. My concern is based on the somewhat rubbery vehicle definition insurers are applying to Perenties.

Dave.

Bushy049
16th July 2014, 07:00 PM
That's a good point how are people going with insurance, and what do they recon "market value" is?


Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

juddy
16th July 2014, 07:50 PM
Finally got to fit the Wolf HAZ kit, now very cosy, and a lot less noise.

[ScreenShot2014-07-16at65728pm_zpsbb30ccc5.png Photo by juddyburton | Photobucket

ScreenShot2014-07-16at65707pm_zpsc94549bd.png Photo by juddyburton | Photobucket

AIF
17th July 2014, 12:16 AM
That's a good point how are people going with insurance, and what do they recon "market value" is?


Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app

My Personell Carrier is insured with Shannons. I think next year I should bump the coverage up to 25K by the looks of whats for sale.

G.I.BO
30th July 2014, 04:09 PM
Anyone near Canberra got a gear stick they wanna sell me. Mine just snapped off

Bearman
30th July 2014, 06:18 PM
Anyone near Canberra got a gear stick they wanna sell me. Mine just snapped off

Pull it out and weld it back together. A common fix.

weeds
30th July 2014, 06:33 PM
Anyone near Canberra got a gear stick they wanna sell me. Mine just snapped off

You are a out the third this month........easy enough fix

G.I.BO
30th July 2014, 08:30 PM
yep

DBT
30th July 2014, 09:08 PM
Heh. I reccon I'd be reaching for the Ventolin too if my stick broke like that.

Today took my 8yo son for a cruise in the FFR around Heaton & Watagans.

Had fun descending a steep hill, only to find a dead end at the bottom. Getting back up the hill was a little more challenging. :eek:

PS, Have you noticed that photos or video really don't do justice to steep inclines? ;)

DeeJay
30th July 2014, 09:40 PM
Pull it out and weld it back together. A common fix.
I managed to break off a series 2 gearstick many moons ago & for extra strength I drilled out the base ( ball part) to the shaft diameter & inserted the gearstick, then welded. It was therefore about 20mm shorter but hardly noticeable.

DeeJay
30th July 2014, 09:50 PM
I modified my jerrycans with a plate & embedded nut so that they are bolted to the carriers. They will be MT 99% of the time but look better than an empty carrier. I figured the average opportunistic thief won't work that out in a hurry. I'd love to see them trying to lift it out :twisted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/29.jpg

Xoanon
1st August 2014, 03:01 PM
Took the new toy on its first outing post-Army on a trip from Marysville to Walhalla via Matlock and some of the trig/service roads en route. Needless to say it performed very well (better than some of the new non-Landrovers). Will be replacing the canvas top at some stage though - we needed to wear waterproofs inside!

DeeJay
1st August 2014, 10:19 PM
Unfortunately, my old County console was a bit too wide to fit in the Perentie so I used it as a template & got to work with some marine ply & the Triton saw bench. I made this one a bit higher so it doubles as an armrest. Does the job...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1441.jpg

mick88
3rd August 2014, 11:12 AM
Where is the best place to get a new canvas for a Perentie as the one on a mates vehicle (GS) is very shabby on the top?

Cheers, Mick.

Barefoot Dave
3rd August 2014, 11:43 AM
G'day Mick.
Robco products are the OEM supplier and now able to sell to the public.
Info on this canopy fitting thread, about p3.
They can make the canopies in other canvas than Digicam.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/198974-brand-new-perentie-canvas-top-fitted.html
If your mate wants something other than the original design, any good canvas maker could help.

mark2
7th August 2014, 05:13 PM
Fitted power steering using a KLR kit. I already had a second hand Discovery box so purchased the kit minus steering box. The Drop arm from the manual box can be used with any 4 bolt power steer box. I did put a seal kit in the Disco box prior to fitting, as a precaution.

What a difference! I can actually park it now and its much more enjoyable to drive. Definitely the best mod I've done yet.

I would recommend the kit and the service from KLR (no affiliation). The kit is comprehensive with everything included plus detailed instructions. Its obvious that a fair bit of thought has been put into the hose and fitting configuration.

Leigh 110
8th August 2014, 07:28 PM
Finally had a chance today to turn my first spanner on my Perenite-48264 FFW,
90000kms on speedo. I drained front diff oil to discover quicksilver..... no chucks, but oil metalic, flushed twice, then half tube nylon G70, then 80w90, rear diff was clean so repeated same treatment.

I have drained the gearbox, it was clean, unsure of oil grade to refill with, any recommendations appricated. Also need to do transfer case, can anyone recommend oil grade???

Thanks

Bearman
8th August 2014, 08:26 PM
Finally had a chance today to turn my first spanner on my Perenite-48264 FFW,
90000kms on speedo. I drained front diff oil to discover quicksilver..... no chucks, but oil metalic, flushed twice, then half tube nylon G70, then 80w90, rear diff was clean so repeated same treatment.

I have drained the gearbox, it was clean, unsure of oil grade to refill with, any recommendations appricated. Also need to do transfer case, can anyone recommend oil grade???

Thanks

Use 15/40 engine oil in both gearbox and transfer case.

Barefoot Dave
8th August 2014, 10:16 PM
G'day Leigh.
Same as Brian said, 15w40 or you run the risk of destroying the box.

JDNSW
9th August 2014, 06:28 AM
G'day Leigh.
Same as Brian said, 15w40 or you run the risk of destroying the box.

This gearbox has a small oil pump on the front - it will not pump 80w90 (or similar) on cold mornings, but will break its drive. Which will not become apparent until, thousands of kilometres later (or sooner when you ask it to work hard), you have to pull the box apart to investigate problems and find out why it needed an oil pump.

If you live in a hot climate, you may get away with gear oil, but it is a risk.

John

DWCamo
9th August 2014, 04:18 PM
G'day Leigh.

Same as Brian said, 15w40 or you run the risk of destroying the box.


Dave, I thought you were a fan of lightweight oil for the gearbox?

DWCamo
9th August 2014, 04:26 PM
On reflection, I think I understand. I guess 15w40 is classed as a light 'engine' oil?

Leigh 110
9th August 2014, 08:43 PM
Thanks for all the replies, i knew when I drained it that it wasn't 80W90, but wasn't sure the correct grade, or more importantly why, anyone want to comment on 4bdi non turbo oil???
Again thanks to everyone:):):)

Barefoot Dave
9th August 2014, 10:34 PM
More discussion on engine oils for the LT95A here;
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/188685-88-110-perentie-oil-help.html

mick88
11th August 2014, 05:52 AM
How do you change a light bulb in the front wing indicators?
Do the indicators push into the wing or are they bolted from the back?
Sorry, doubled up with this inquiry by mistake. I thought the post didn't work but it's on another Perentie thread!
My question has been answered.


Cheers, Mick.

mick88
14th August 2014, 08:52 AM
What is the fuel capacity and what is the expected fuel economy of a Perentie?




Cheers, Mick.

rar110
14th August 2014, 11:03 AM
What is the fuel capacity and what is the expected fuel economy of a Perentie? Cheers, Mick.

The under seat tank is a bit over 60lt. NA 4BD1 should get about 10.5lt per 100km.

DWCamo
14th August 2014, 12:19 PM
What is the fuel capacity and what is the expected fuel economy of a Perentie?




Cheers, Mick.


Hey Mick, I think my Carryall tank is only 45L. Not too sure about fuel economy. Cheers, DW

rar110
14th August 2014, 02:56 PM
The above is for a standard 2 door perentie. The tank on the wagon has a modification so the 2nd row passenger floor fits. The modification means the tank holds probably 5 lt less. However the filler tube is longer and so the tube holds more fuel compared to a tube on a 2 door.

lmurko
14th August 2014, 10:47 PM
i did a run from full to empty with my survey and got just under 600 kms out of the 63L tank. so i got roughly 10l/100kms. i suspect i would get better on highway miles :p

cheers,
lachlan

isuzutoo-eh
15th August 2014, 09:53 AM
Over the last 3800km, I have averaged 12.16l/100km in my FFR. A mix of highway, suburban and a few days off road, but predominately drag racing taxis at traffic lights and other suburban delights.

AIF
15th August 2014, 07:24 PM
My Personnel carrier averages 10l/100km.
I have to hold back on the reins or she wants to bolt all the time on the open road.

rust
17th August 2014, 07:17 AM
Speaking of tanks, I reckon get about 10l per 100k too... but what's the purpose/importance of the looped pipe that comes up from the fuel tank and sits directly behind the drivers side in the trayback section of a FFR.

Also, what would be the impacts if this pipe was cut or buckled?

isuzutoo-eh
17th August 2014, 08:47 AM
That's the fuel tank breather, it exhausts into a little sock under the body work.
If cut you'd get fuel spilling out of the cut location if overfilled. If buckled/blocked off you'd get burping when filling the tank and potentially suck the tank in due to vacuum when running.

Jeff
17th August 2014, 09:22 AM
The pipe is to cover your feet in diesel when you try to fill it to the top.

Jeff

:rocket:

DBT
17th August 2014, 11:22 AM
The pipe is to cover your feet in diesel when you try to fill it to the top.

Jeff

:rocket:

Thanks. Always wondered where that came from.

So no point filling past the first click then. I keep forgetting. :(