building a box for the disco.

[Deltacharliepapa]

hey all. i was wondering if any one who has build some draws for the back of their wagon could give a little advice?

im gonna build a box about 350mm high and the length and width of the rear with the rear seats removed.

its going to have two side by side slide out draws at the back, and two flip top lids by the rear doors for easy access. im also going to incorporate a speaker box with an amp. (its a pretty cool design...):p

im also going to have the top padded so for for the quick trips so i can sleep in the back.

the big question is, what thickness of ply do you recommend?

i was thinking 12mm structural ply, but then got concerned about the weight, its going to be a fair amount of wood in there.

could i get away with 7mm or 9mm? its going to be braced quite well to avoid movement and squeaky times.

also. (long shot here) in the back of the disco 1 there are 4 threaded bolt holes in the tray, was wondering if any one knew the size of the bolt that goes in there to secure the box??....

thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any advice.

cheers.

dcp.

[R Miller]

I used 6mm marine ply in my draws I made for my Ford Ranger, We braced everything we could, Looking back i really should have got 10 or 12 mm,

also buy the best draw runners you can afford, my first set failed really quickly and i then had to buy better quality. I also ended up running 2 sets of slides on each draw

[wanglemoose]

if you are worried about the weight use 25mm x 2mm thick steel box section to make the external structure and sheet it with .6mm aluminum. you should then be able to get away with 6-9mm for the top and still be able to sleep on it

[R Miller]

if u do that u might need to put some rubber between the steel and ally, they react together causing electrolisys

[Michael2]

Hi DCP,

I built the system in the back of my defender out of square tube aluminium (about $30 for 6 meters) and joined the corners with plastic clip in blocks (about $1ea - you can buy then with the aluminium).

I used a small self taper at each corner to stop the tube pulling out under extreme pressure.

I got given an old freeway size speed limit sign (aluminium), and I had that bent to go over the top and down the sides of the frame. This provided cover, extra strength and rigidity.

The fridge slide was made using the slides from an old computer server that a mate got from work (free). They're strong, light weight and compact (narrow). The fridge draw I made from right angle aluminium I bought in a scrap yard. As it's only a square frame with a hollow base, it's very light. It has withstood many rough trips and supports the 40 litre Evakool without issue, and without any binding on the slide at full extension.

To finish it I put some closed cell foam on the inside of the aluminium to prevent drumming and insulate the fridge, and marine carpet on the outside.

I attached cargo rails with the adjustable ring latch to the top and sides for securing other items.

Besides the fridge there is a tool draw. For this I used a long steel ammo box from the army disposals and h/duty kitchen draw slides. The slides are mounted to the bottom of the frame using the right angle alum for extra strength, and the corresponding draw slide is pop riveted to the bottom of the tool box. This way I can use it as a draw, or I can slide and lift the whole draw/tool box out and take it to where I'm working.

The whole set up is light enough to pick up with one hand.

To secure it I used a stepped section of aluminium to create a clamp, it's a wide section to distribute the force and not bend the frame. In my case (Defender), it clamps the frame down between the wheel arches.

All up, less than $100 (not inc cargo rails) and it won't weigh down your suspension.

[Lionelgee]

All up, less than $100 (not inc cargo rails) and it won't weigh down your suspension.[/QUOTE]


Hello Michael 2.

Any Photographs you can post up of your set up? Please :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Yorkie]

I have used 12mm ply on my first version, the draw I used the nylon boat slide stuff from bcf instead of runners.
Version two now has 12mm top and bottom but the vertical sections are now 15mm as I had some in the shed. :)

[d2dave]

From memory the four threaded bolt holes are 10mm. Not sure whether the pitch is 1.25 or 1.5. My money would be on 1.5.

I changed my thread to 3/8 NC, as I wanted them to be stainless. I have 3/8NC helicoils in the shed.

[bob10]

I found this on the internet, going to give it a go down the track, might suit you, Bob

How to make 4wd Storage drawer system part 1 of 4.mp4 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/GaYrMPE9Td0)

[loanrangie]

There will be a few posts on using qubelok alloy tubing if you search, by using alloy the weight of the plywood is negated. Found this seller in the Trading post -

http://www.tradingpost.com.au/House-and-Garden/Building-and-Renovations/Other-Building-Materials-/Qubelok-Aluminium-Square-Tube-Fittings/Rockbank/VIC/AdNumber=TP005537011

[Michael2]

Hi Lionel, Pics as requested

Top Cargo Rails


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/996.jpg (http://s197.photobucket.com/user/konstantinoufamily/media/Draw%20System/IMG_7915_zps1102015b.jpg.html)

Removable Tool Box

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/997.jpg (http://s197.photobucket.com/user/konstantinoufamily/media/Draw%20System/IMG_7914_zps21730568.jpg.html)

Fridge Slide

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/998.jpg (http://s197.photobucket.com/user/konstantinoufamily/media/Draw%20System/IMG_7913_zps0a445f21.jpg.html)

Rear View

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/999.jpg (http://s197.photobucket.com/user/konstantinoufamily/media/Draw%20System/IMG_7912_zps5021c963.jpg.html)

[Deltacharliepapa]

if you are worried about the weight use 25mm x 2mm thick steel box section to make the external structure and sheet it with .6mm aluminum. you should then be able to get away with 6-9mm for the top and still be able to sleep on it

that does sound good, but ive never worked with steal. wouldnt know where to start.

[Deltacharliepapa]

Hi DCP,

I built the system in the back of my defender out of square tube aluminium (about $30 for 6 meters) and joined the corners with plastic clip in blocks (about $1ea - you can buy then with the aluminium).

I used a small self taper at each corner to stop the tube pulling out under extreme pressure.

I got given an old freeway size speed limit sign (aluminium), and I had that bent to go over the top and down the sides of the frame. This provided cover, extra strength and rigidity.

The fridge slide was made using the slides from an old computer server that a mate got from work (free). They're strong, light weight and compact (narrow). The fridge draw I made from right angle aluminium I bought in a scrap yard. As it's only a square frame with a hollow base, it's very light. It has withstood many rough trips and supports the 40 litre Evakool without issue, and without any binding on the slide at full extension.

To finish it I put some closed cell foam on the inside of the aluminium to prevent drumming and insulate the fridge, and marine carpet on the outside.

I attached cargo rails with the adjustable ring latch to the top and sides for securing other items.

Besides the fridge there is a tool draw. For this I used a long steel ammo box from the army disposals and h/duty kitchen draw slides. The slides are mounted to the bottom of the frame using the right angle alum for extra strength, and the corresponding draw slide is pop riveted to the bottom of the tool box. This way I can use it as a draw, or I can slide and lift the whole draw/tool box out and take it to where I'm working.

The whole set up is light enough to pick up with one hand.

To secure it I used a stepped section of aluminium to create a clamp, it's a wide section to distribute the force and not bend the frame. In my case (Defender), it clamps the frame down between the wheel arches.

All up, less than $100 (not inc cargo rails) and it won't weigh down your suspension.

that sounds like a brilliant idea. maybe i could have a stab at doing some metal work. kinda like Lego? ;)

[Deltacharliepapa]

From memory the four threaded bolt holes are 10mm. Not sure whether the pitch is 1.25 or 1.5. My money would be on 1.5.

I changed my thread to 3/8 NC, as I wanted them to be stainless. I have 3/8NC helicoils in the shed.

gold! thank you! saves me going to the hard ware store and buying one of each:o

[Discomark]

Check out this older thread for ideas. I also removed the back seats on mine and it only takes around an hour to remove the storage system and put the seats back in.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/173636-disco-1-boot-system-2.html

The aluminium box section (qubelok)can be purchased in 6 metre lengths and is much cheaper than buying at bunnings etc.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/179630-qubelok.html

Cheers
Mark

[jacknz]

Hi, my D1 has the threaded holes in the rear floor and from memory they are 5/16 UNF threads, I did build a set of drawers and used 12mm ply, way too heavy, I got drawer slides from My local Bunnings and they will at take 60kg a pair and extend to about a metre. I think they were made by a company called 'Hattich'.They had to order them in ( its a small store) but they weren't expensive,I got 2 sets for a drawer and a fridge slide. It's worth doing a few drawings and working out exactly what you need before cutting anything.
Cheers, Jack