Salisbury Detroit second hand

[tonic]

Hi all

Have found a second hand Detroit Locker out of td5 110. Could those in the know help me with a PM on how much they think it would be worth. Apparently only used for a short time by a little old lady in the grass car park at the church on Sundays when it rained:D

Thanks

[harry]

New ex Sydney is about 850/900 secondhand you shouldn't pay more than 400
Well, I havn't .

[tonic]

Thanks mate, that's what I wad thinking, he wants 850.

[inside]

I paid USD 670 landed brand new including new Timken carrier bearings and new thrust washers. Even at $400 I'd buy new. Depending on kms I'd also look at pinion bearings while it's apart.

[tonic]

I paid USD 670 landed brand new including new Timken carrier bearings and new thrust washers. Even at $400 I'd buy new. Depending on kms I'd also look at pinion bearings while it's apart.

Not a bad idea, dollar is going up at present, who did you get yours off, been looking at a few sites over there. Still thinking ARB, still nervous about it locking up when I don't want it to.

[inside]

Got mine from Great Basin Rovers. I've had it for about 6000km now and no issues but I haven't driven it over every terrain.

[CheekyD1]

Detroit in rear. (Full Stop)

I have used all the lockers (except Ox) been disappointed by all of them

Including Tru-Track (Shudders in corners under load)

Especially ARB, both of mine failed and David has had his apart about 5 times

If you had an 80" the Detroit might push the front, in 100" its fine
In a long truck like yours Tony, you will not even notice its there.

IMHO the Detroit works best off road. It just does it thing, gets you where you want to go.
Then you look back at all the manual locker trucks stuck....#@$^% fiddling with switches, compressors or revving to get vacuum.
You then get to laugh while they try to move off from a difficult position.

BTW they are also the cheapest, strongest real locker.

Gaz

[dungarover]

Still can't beat Maxi-Drive lockers (early 28 spline ones better IMO), shame they don't make them any more they always work, you can even lock them manually. I had mine for 10 plus years til just before I moved back to Vic, only issue was the locking dog set-up on the rear the grub screw kept coming loose. After some alterations 'dunga spec' style all good and worked perfectly.

Never had a Detroit locker on a Land Rover so can't comment. I still prefer to select when I want my diff lock engaged but that's just me, more than one way to skin a cat. Back on topic, if you can get one that cheap imported I would also go new even for a tight arse like me that sounds like good value :)

Trav

[harry]

i'm with gaz,
its too late to select the locker when it's bogged,
fit a Detroit, you're past the bad bit without even having to think about it.

all those that say they want to select it when they think they need it may like extricating themselves from a miss call,
i'd rather drive past it without having to think about it.
there are situations where the planning goes horrible wrong, and you can be stuck before you have a chance to think will I select the locker or not.

its a no brainer, fit a Detroit.

[dungarover]

That's where driver initiative and experience comes in. If you're unsure, flick the button in problem solved but I see your point though. I can't remember when I have been stuck for not putting the rear diff lock in to be quite honest.

I had a old 2 door I wrecked a while back with a Detroit 10 spline in it, was going to keep it but was offered a fair whack for it so sold it.

Trav

[tonic]

Thanks all, it was actually Gaz that talked me into trying a Detroit Locker. I thought if I buy one second hand and don't like it, I wont lose to much when I sell it, thus the thread.

Trav, I would buy Maxi if Mal was still making it, not now. I will buy the axles off the new guy.

Having looked at some sites in the US, I would really like an ELocker for the front if they made them for LR Diffs, but they don't yet. They reckon you can put the Truetrak in front, talk to you about that further Gaz when I see you.

[harry]

I'm not sure if I want to sell one of mine, but I might have one I don't need, unless I double lock something

[tonic]

Thanks Harry, I'll catch up with soon, all over the place at present. Eg, just parked the Mack motel at Half Way Creek Shell to be in Coffs early tomorrow. Good coffee.

[Grimace]

I still prefer to select when I want my diff lock engaged but that's just me
Trav

I am in the same boat Trav.

For me if I had to get lockers over again, I would not hesitate to go Ashcrofts front and rear. But we all know that's not the cheapest option.
The only other selectable locker I would go is ARB (which is what I have now).

As for the auto locker the Detroit is good, and well priced, just not for me.
I gave the last Detroit I had away (two times) :D

[tonic]

Eaton also have a locker called an ELocker which works with an electro magnet. 1 wire no compressor or vacume, instant on, but not in lr or salisbury.

[dungarover]

I will be putting a Ashcroft locker in my next Rangie, I hate the air line set-up on the ARB, I do prefer to buy a Aussie made product but there attitude towards LR owners as a whole is **** poor so for that reason they can get stuffed :mad::mad::mad:

Trav

[tonic]

Ashcroft won't make a salisbury

[CheekyD1]

ARB's stupid 5mm air lines are made out of poo.
They melt and kink

If you must use air to move your locker, run the route with rubber fuel hose first
Secure both ends of the fuel hose
then run the air line down the middle of the fuel hose.

Main problem with the ARB product is how long they take to dis-engage.
Not that maxi is better.

Do Ox do one of their cable jobs for LR for those who want to bang their heads against the wall :wallbash:, persisting with manual lockers in the rear??

[harry]

I ran the v8 front arb with braided aircraft hose, that fixed it!

[CheekyD1]

I have heard good things about the Yukon Zip Locker
But if you go that way I would use the Grizzly in the rear
yukonairlocker.com (http://yukonairlocker.com/)