What kind of plugs/connectors can I solder? Low current, auto wire. (Spade?)

[Judo]

TLDR: Where can I get a solder spade connector with insulation?

Longer version:
Short of replacing wiring looms, I am always needing to move, extend or install new wiring. The standard small auto wire (18 AWG?) that would be used to control relays, power a single bulb etc.

Spade connectors seem perfect, but when I go to somewhere like Jaycar, the only solder appropriate ones don't have any insulation. I can heat shrink, but it all seems a bit messy. The rest are crimp and can't solder because the insulation is in the way.

I want something like a spade plug/connector (male+female) that I can solder, then have the insulation slide over the top or clip together to make a simple insulated join.

It seems obvious this type of thing exists, but I seem incapable of finding it. A little help?

[michaelp]

Something like this
3-520408-2 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - CRIMP TERMINAL, FEMALE, 6.3X0 | element14 Australia (http://au.element14.com/te-connectivity-amp/3-520408-2/crimp-terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/488483?Ntt=488-483)

[Utemad]

My first thought is why would you not want a standard insulated crimp?

I have never seen an insulated solder crimp I don't think. If you want to cover a soldered crimp and don't like heat shrink then get some appropriately sized spaghetti insulation. Although since it is looks you are after you won't like that either.

[Geedublya]

I would ask, why are you soldering instead of crimping? A properly done crimp is far better than solder.

[Judo]

I'm sure you'll tell me I don't have the right tool and happy to be educated, but I've never found a crimp connection all that satisfactory. Never feels as though contact point is decent and secure.

I've always found solder to be excellent.

[Utemad]

I'm sure you'll tell me I don't have the right tool and happy to be educated, .

You don't have the right tool. You need a quality ratchet crimper.

Something like this.
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/200950968836

[Judo]

You don't have the right tool. You need a quality ratchet crimper.

Something like this.
Cabac PRE Insulated Ratchet Terminal LUG Crimper RED Blue Yellow Terminals | eBay (http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/200950968836)
I've got one of those. :) I'm never happy with the result though.

[Utemad]

In that case if you are using the correct size crimp for the wire then I think your expectations are too high or you are worrying about nothing.

After all there are probably no factory soldered crimps in your OEM wiring harness. They will all be crimped using various methods.

[Blknight.aus]

or you're using the wrong set of crimps and crimpers'

insulated crimpers (red for small blue med and yellow large) do not go down small enough for automotive "signal" wires.

you either need to pad by stripping more wire and then folding it over or using some additional wire that you then cut off to fill the crimp OR you need to use the non insulated crimps with the correct crimping tool and then heat shrinking the crimp and connector as appropriate.

The sets of crimps and crimpers are not interchangable.

[Judo]

your expectations are too high or you are worrying about nothing.


and



you either need to pad by stripping more wire and then folding it over or using some additional wire that you then cut off to fill the crimp OR you need to use the non insulated crimps with the correct crimping tool and then heat shrinking the crimp and connector as appropriate.


Perhaps I'm just asking too much then. I will go back to repeatedly folding wires over to make them the correct fit. Seems like a band-aid fix to me, but if it's what everyone does and it works, I will attempt to stop worrying and accept.

Back to business as usual. :)

[md90]

I usually crimp and solder, you can either pull the plastic insulator off with pliers (comes off very easily) or leave it on there - the heat from soldering usually makes it reform into a round shape. I usually use heat shrink as it super neat.

I don't have an expensive ratchet crimper, I also often use the non insulated end and align it well then solder, doesn't mash the crimp flat like the ratchet crimpers do.

Have fun!

Matt

[Utemad]

It just occurred to me that I have seen a solder crimp cover of sorts.

You can get the non insulated crimps with clear plastic covers. So you could crimp them on (or not) and then apply solder. Then slip the cover over.

I only solder connectors on when I am using a crimp connector that is too large or small for the cable and folding the wire over still doesn't make it big enough. More of a get out of jail thing than an every day thing.

[bee utey]

Sounds like you want something like this:

Trade Pack 50 X 3 9 Japanese Bullet Connector Plus PRO Crimpers Honda Yamaha | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trade-Pack-50-x-3-9-Japanese-Bullet-Connector-Plus-pro-Crimpers-Honda-Yamaha-/221270554574?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3384c0b7ce)

[R Miller]

I worked for a company building road maintenance trucks for a few years. They would not let us just crimp wires, unless it was for a specific connector. such as deustch plugs.

Most OEM harnesses are crimped because its cheaper and faster for a machine to crimp the joints.

Our auto electrician would always solder every connection he could reach. his reasoning was that as good as crimps can be they can over time work loose with vibration,

[Blknight.aus]

till the acid in the flux eats away the copper and then the slightest bit of vibration causes a break.

[Geedublya]

I can tell you that aircraft don't have soldered connections. All connections are done mechanically.
Crimps crimp the wire and the insulation this gives the connection strain relief.
Soldered joints have no strain relief and also suffer from wicking which is where the solder wicks up the wire and under the insulation. Of course you can use anti wicking tweezers however I doubt that most people have seen or heard of these before.
Any flex at the soldered joint will result in the wire eventually breaking.

A correctly crimped connection will fuse the wire and the crimp due to the force involved.

[Judo]

Sounds like you want something like this:

Trade Pack 50 X 3 9 Japanese Bullet Connector Plus PRO Crimpers Honda Yamaha | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trade-Pack-50-x-3-9-Japanese-Bullet-Connector-Plus-pro-Crimpers-Honda-Yamaha-/221270554574?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3384c0b7ce)
Now we're talking. That type of fold over crimp appeals to me a bit more too. With the option of soldering as well, I like it.

[Judo]

I can tell you that aircraft don't have soldered connections. All connections are done mechanically.
Crimps crimp the wire and the insulation this gives the connection strain relief.
Soldered joints have no strain relief and also suffer from wicking which is where the solder wicks up the wire and under the insulation. Of course you can use anti wicking tweezers however I doubt that most people have seen or heard of these before.
Any flex at the soldered joint will result in the wire eventually breaking.

A correctly crimped connection will fuse the wire and the crimp due to the force involved.
I agree with your points and they are certainly some negatives to soldering. Like most things there are always pros and cons to consider. I would be interested to know what type of gear they use though - I doubt Boeing and AirBus have the same crimper I have.

To me it comes back to viable DIY options of crimp vs solder. The quality of my DIY crimps thus far have been poor and I consider my solder connections to be much better.

As always, discussion is uncovering some good options for both though. :)

[loanrangie]

I have tried soldering spade connectors before but found the crimped ones more that enough for the task and a huge step up from the old twist and tape method i used as a kid fitting stereo's in friends cars :o.

[Judo]

I have tried soldering spade connectors before but found the crimped ones more that enough for the task and a huge step up from the old twist and tape method i used as a kid fitting stereo's in friends cars :o.
:lol2: I have found some wiring like this in my 110 - thus starting this thread and looking for new solutions...

That makes me think... Electrical tape has a somewhat deceiving name really - if you're using electrical tape to fix an electrical problem, you're doing it wrong.

[Blknight.aus]

I agree with your points and they are certainly some negatives to soldering. Like most things there are always pros and cons to consider. I would be interested to know what type of gear they use though - I doubt Boeing and AirBus have the same crimper I have.

To me it comes back to viable DIY options of crimp vs solder. The quality of my DIY crimps thus far have been poor and I consider my solder connections to be much better.

As always, discussion is uncovering some good options for both though. :)

wanna bet (well for some applications)

[jazzaD1]

Weather Pack Series Sealed Connectors - Electrical Connectors - Carroll Australasia - Australasia´s wiring accessory specialist. (http://www.carroll.com.au/connection-products/weather-pack-series-sealed-connectors.html)
These are the way to go! not cheap though

[drivesafe]

Just bet me to it jazza.

Carroll have standard automotive cable size weather proof connectors but for terminals for thinner and MUCH thinner wire than that used in standard automotive wiring, try Molex or Tyco.

These are just two of a number of companies who make extremely small terminal connectors and the tools to crimp them.

I do a bit of work with surface mount components and need computer style leads down 0.5mm2 wires and I often crimp and solder these small terminal connections.

BTW, in automotive applications, there is very little difference between soldered or crimped connections, BUT the Underwriters Laboratory, this is an organisation who specialises in testing things for safety and the likes.

You may already have products they have tested and certified. Have a look at an imported electrical appliance and you will often see the letters UL on the compliance plate.

Anyway, they have an article on soldered electrical joints verses crimped electrical joints and soldered joints were found to be stronger. Not 10 or 20 times stronger, just 13% stronger.

Further to the argument as to which is best, Anderson Power Connectors specifically state their terminals can be soldered or crimped.

If Anderson recommend either form of fixing wire/cable to their terminals, where is the argument for or against either form.