Auxiliary Wiring Kit / Driving Lamp Kit circuits?

[mfhall]

I want to install a pair of driving lights - and would like to copy the Land Rover designed installation if possible. This way I'd be sure the right circuits/fuses were used and could use the genuine lighted momentary binnacle switch. I'm quite capable of wiring a straightforward relay driven by a switched connection from the high-beam circuit, but that wouldn't use a momentary switch.

The standard installation used the subject kits (the auxiliary wiring kit appears to just be the driving lamp kit less lights). The kits are no longer available.

While I have the installation instructions for the kits (which are just series of pictures for dis-assembly-installation-assembly); what I can't find is circuit diagrams. None of the circuit diagram sources I've checked (including Rave) have diagrams for these accessories (unless I'm missing something obvious).

Does anyone know of a source for these diagrams?

If not, can anyone tell me how the momentary switch works? Is it connected to the ECU or BCU, or does it use some sort of relay latching circuit?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Mr.Bear]

Here you go, extensive light install plus LR light switch mod

www.discovery2.co.uk** Driving / Spot Lamps (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/spots.html)

Allround brilliant website as well :)

[mfhall]

Thanks for your reply Mr Bear - but the article is for a Disco that already has the factory supplied aux lights loom already fitted. I'd looked at it & it uses parts of that loom - so unless its been fitted to mine (& I don't think it has) it doesn't tell me a lot.

It will be useful for the advice about how to modify the standard switches to be used for a conventional relay system using genuine binnacle switches though.

[jwb]

I used a wiring loom to the driving lights that I made from heavy duty cable - or buy one. Then hooked to a latching binnacle switch - e.g. cruise control and simply swapped the covers of the switch to the one from the aux lights. All looks custom.

[OffTrack]

I want to install a pair of driving lights - and would like to copy the Land Rover designed installation if possible. This way I'd be sure the right circuits/fuses were used and could use the genuine lighted momentary binnacle switch. I'm quite capable of wiring a straightforward relay driven by a switched connection from the high-beam circuit, but that wouldn't use a momentary switch.

The standard installation used the subject kits (the auxiliary wiring kit appears to just be the driving lamp kit less lights). The kits are no longer available.

While I have the installation instructions for the kits (which are just series of pictures for dis-assembly-installation-assembly); what I can't find is circuit diagrams. None of the circuit diagram sources I've checked (including Rave) have diagrams for these accessories (unless I'm missing something obvious).

Does anyone know of a source for these diagrams?

If not, can anyone tell me how the momentary switch works? Is it connected to the ECU or BCU, or does it use some sort of relay latching circuit?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

The factory kit has a module that contains a circuit which latches on the momentary push from the driving light switch plus a relay to switch the driving lamps when high beam is switched. As UP's page shows, these circuits are potted in resin (as you can see on the page Mr. Bear linked to), so it's difficult to determine exactly how they are wired.

There is a second hand module on ebay at the moment: Land Rover Discovery Series 2 1999 2004 Genuine Auxilary Light Module STC50039 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-Series-2-1999-2004-Genuine-Auxilary-Light-Module-STC50039-/200956803457?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec9f57981)

There is a list of what most of the connections to the switching module on the same page. You could probably come up with a circuit that latched the momentary switch with a little bit of research. Maybe something like this:
All About Circuits Forum - View Single Post - Best Momentary Latching Pushbutton Switch Circuit (http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=353322&postcount=5)

In the end it's probably easiest to switch the faceplates as suggested above.

Your best bet would be to use something like the circuit used in this Traxide setup as the basis: COMBO HL & Driving Light Wiring Kit | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/combo-hl--driving-light-2.html)

cheers
Paul

[Designosaur]

some info here in an old thread which I found helpful. I'm currently getting the switch and relay to connect some front fog lights. this thread covers running driving lights off the front fog light switch.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/123720-fog-lamp-switch-correct-part-number.html

Cheers
Bernie

[PaulMc0308]

I posted some info, here - Land Rover Zone - View Single Post - Disco 2 Safari 5000 Driving Lamps Wiring Diagram (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2204556-post5.html)


The first diagram shows where the Auxiliary Wiring Kit (using the 'control unit') is connected to the vehicle's wiring harness.


The second diagram shows how to modify the wiring kit and simplify the circuit, using a standard automotive relay and a latching on/off switch.

This does away with the expensive and unreliable 'control unit' in the kit, replacing it with a latching on/off switch (Puma Defender Heated Seat switch YUF500150LNF, which (in the UK) is 10 x cheaper than a DII Cruise Control switch).


Instead of taking the main (high) beam feed from one of the headlamps, the easiest place to take it from is the main lighting switch at the steering column.


I've re-posted the content of the Landy Zone post, below -


You do have to change the switch body for a latching live-switching switch, but for this, you can use a Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch (YUF500150LNF), which is only a fiver

The Driving Lights Switch's 'Aux 2' front can be easily swapped to the Puma switch body.


If you want to change to a relay, you might find this useful -


Wire Colour Codes

B = Black . G = Green . O= Orange . R = Red . U = Blue . W = White . Y = Yellow



BEFORE

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/737.jpg




AFTER

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/738.jpg




DETAILS

We'll start at the 10-way connector at the 'Control Unit'


Top row -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/739.jpg


Cut R1 - connect it to terminal 30 of your relay

Cut B2 - connect it to terminal 85 of your relay

Cut UY1 - we'll deal with this wire soon...

Cut B1 and B3 - crimp them together in an M6 eyelet and take them to the earth point C0557/C0709/C0807 on the inner wing -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/740.jpg



The mounting bracket that the fuse holder clips to, can be removed from the 'Control Unit' body and mounted elsewhere.

It's held on by a small countersunk screw.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/741.jpg




Bottom Row -

(ignore the fact that I've already cut the White/Green and Blue/Orange wires)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/742.jpg


Cut R2 and UO - join them together (solder and sleeve, or splice joint)

Cut U - connect it to terminal 86 of your relay

Cut UY2 - connect it, with UY1 from the top row, to terminal 87 of your relay

Cut WG - NOT NEEDED - remove it back to it's 'tap-off' under the engine compartment fusebox, in a 'reverse' of the installation procedure, below -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/743.jpg


Alternatively, you can just trace the White/Green wire WG from the 10-way connector, back to where it emerges from the underbonnet fuse box Brown 3-way connector C0572-1, cut it and tape-up the bare end.

Make sure that you don't cut the other WG wire from the same terminal (C0572-1), which goes to the inline White/Translucent cylinderical connector, as this powers a large number of ignition-switched circuits from the under-dash fuse box.



Changing the switch wiring to suit a PUMA Heated Seat Latching On/Off Switch (YUF500150LNF)

At the Black switch connector -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/744.jpg


Open the hinged terminal lock and, using a safety pin from the front of the connector -

Release the Blue wire from cavity 5 and the Black wire from cavity 4

Swap their positions, so that the Blue wire is now in cavity 4 and the Black wire is now in Cavity 5

Close hinged terminal lock

Job done https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/224.jpg



Here are some pictures that show how to open a 5-way switch connector and release the terminals.

These are from my 'Fuel Flap Relocation Harness' Installation Instructions (https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B9hvpYDBaGtfc0h2di1tMVdRNjg), so show a Blue connector, but the procedure is the same for all colours of these switch connectors -

Use a small screwdriver to open the hinged terminal lock, 1st side -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/218.jpg



And on the 2nd side -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/219.jpg



Hinged terminal lock opened -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/220.jpg



Use a safety pin to lift the locking tab above the wire's terminal -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/221.jpg



At the same time as lifting the locking tab, pull gently on the wire

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/222.jpg



Terminal released from connector housing -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/223.jpg




This animated cross-section of a connector and terminal, shows what you're trying to achieve with the safety pin -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/745.jpg



Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

[PaulMc0308]

If you dont have an 'Auxiliary Wiring Kit' to modify, and want to wire driving/spot lamps from scratch, this is how I do them.


Content re-posted from - The D2 Boys Club. • Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=219692#p219692)

(you'll need to be a logged-in member to the D2BC forum, to see the post)


This is my wiring Diagram for Driving Lamps, using a Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch (YUF500150LNF), which has been modified by replacing it's switch cap with one from a DII spotlights switch -

YUF500150LNF is a latching, live-switching on/off switch. It costs around a fiver, and uses the Black 5-way switch connector.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/729.jpg

This complies with UK lighting regulations, in that, the Driving Lamps can only be switched-on with Main Beam and will extinguish when Main Beam is dipped.

But, unlike the Genuine Parts Accessory Kit, these can be left switched in the 'on' position, so that if you 'flash' someone, the driving lamps will also flash, along with the main beam.



Connectors referenced in the above diagram -


C0759 & C0760 - Switch illumination and earth.

Depending on your vehicle's specification, some higher spec. vehicles have no spare cavities in these headers, so an alternative connection will have to be found

(adjacent switches, or the S12 socket on the under-facia fuse box)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/730.jpg



C0041-5 - Source of Main Beam trigger -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/731.jpg



C0585-3 and C0588-4 - Alternative source of Main Beam trigger -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/732.jpg

C0585-3 is the other end of the cable from C0041-5 - there's no real advantage in picking-up the trigger here.

C0588-4 is an unused terminal (on UK/European spec.vehicles) on the main beam circuit (before it's split into left & right circuits), which is used as a connection to the Daytime Running Lights circuit on Canadian NAS vehicles.

C0588-4 is quite fiddly to get at (I've got my Main Beam trigger connected here, but I did have the under-dash fuse box out of the car at the time).
It requires a Sumitomo 090 female terminal to plug into the connector.



End of under-bonnet fuse box - a good place to mount your relay (just to the right of where the 'C158' label is, on the side next to the ECU plug), as it's adjacent to the Battery Live and good Earth points, and not too far to route the Driving Lamps cables to, as well as being tucked out of the way.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/733.jpg


For your relay, I would recommend a relay with a combined fuse to protect the driving lamp supply, like this one -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/734.jpg



Battery Live connections at the under-bonnet fuse box -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/735.jpg



Earth points, adjacent to the under-bonnet fuse box -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/536.jpg




Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

[OffTrack]

But, unlike the Genuine Parts Accessory Kit, these can be left switched in the 'on' position, so that if you 'flash' someone, the driving lamps will also flash, along with the main beam.


Damn it!!! My Genuine Parts Aux wiring kit must be broken!

When I flash the headlights with the aux lights in the on position this happens:

YouTube

;)

Otherwise it's a pretty interesting tutorial, and the switch hook up is very clever.

I still prefer the Traxide style setup for the relay which takes the high beam trigger from a short harness between the back of the headlight and the loom connector. The install of this type I've seen mount the NewEra style fused relays in behind the drivers side headlight, so the wiring runs can be short, and use heavy gauge wiring to minimise voltage drop at the lights.

cheers
Paul

Add: Feral had posted up a link to this pic a few years ago showing a typical relay location. There are other ones posted to the forum but you think I can find them?

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/7545/img1924zx1.jpg

[PaulMc0308]

I can't see the video, YouTube tells me that it's 'private' :(

But, I'm guessing that your driving lights 'flash' with your main beams.

Do you have a latching switch?

If not, you may find that the contacts on the tiny undersized relay in the control unit have fused together.


The Land Rover Genuine Parts pre-facelift wiring kit (STC50039) takes the main beam trigger from the driver's side headlamp.

It does this with a short loom terminated with a male and female H4 connector at each end, which is plugged-in inline with the driver's side headlamp wiring.

In the later Genuine Parts kit for the facelift vehicles (STC53196AA), because of the different (9-way sealed) headlamp connector, the main beam trigger is taken from the main lighting switch C0041-5, by unplugging the Blue/White wire from the switch's connector and plugging-it into an adaptor that has two branches - one going to the spotlamps switch, the other going back into C0041-5.

If you're using a switch to interupt the main beam trigger, this is the neatest way to do it, as you aren't running wires backwards and forwards from and into the the engine compartment.


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

[OffTrack]

Fixed the permissions.

It's a stock STC50039 kit, which I installed about 12-18 months ago. I found a guy in Germany selling NIB kits on eBay, so it's still in very good shape.

The failure point on the controllers appears to be The relay, so I plan on doing a wiring upgrade which uses the output of the controller to switch a heavy duty relay - along the lines of the traxide setup. This will mean the controller is switching a tiny load so the relay should survive much longer than if it were switching 10 amps.

Cheers
Paul

[mfhall]

Thanks PaulMc0308 - this is all the information I could hope for, and more.

I have the auxiliary light switch & a design for a latching circuit using 2 DPDT relays - so I think I can replicate the behaviour of the factory kit (but with better reliability...). I prefer that, as I would rather the driving lights were deactivated when ignition / lights (I'm not sure which) go off, rather than having them come on with the high beams until the switch is off (I can be forgetful..).

Sorry for the late reply, but I've been away.

Cheers

[VladTepes]

I would like to copy the Land Rover designed installation if possible.



This way I'd be sure the right circuits/fuses were used



I sense a dichotomy.

You either want it to work properly or you want it the way Land Rover made it.... :lol2:

:wasntme: :angel:

[mfhall]

I should close the loop on my original question.

I did buy the genuine LR momentary switch. I then made up a (complex ...) circuit that toggled a relay which connected a line from the high beam switch to the main relay behind the RF headlight and to the switch LED. The main relay conventionally switches power from the battery to the driving lights.

One point that I don't think has been made is that electrical safety/protection means that the power should NEVER come straight from the battery. Evenwith a fused relay, there is no protection against the wire from the battery to the fuse chafing and shorting - which would result in the sort of nasty under bonnet smoke, heat and smell I noticed coming from a parked Lexus the other day (called the fire brigade and the car was still there hours later ...). I took my power from a 150A fusible link in the engine bay fuse box. That way a major short should be arrested before further damage.

Many thanks to PaulMc0308 for the switch diagrams - it was very hard to puzzle out with a multimeter.

What I have now is a genuine LR driving light switch that activates driving lights only when high beams are on, and needs to be re-activated after headlights have been dimmed or switched off. That way I won't accidentally flash people with the driving lights when I forget they're on and hit the high beams when a bit too close for the driving lights ... I believe that's the original Land Rover intent.

The circuitry is hardly genuine though ...

[drivesafe]

Hi mfhall, thats a good read but can I suggest you do not use globes bigger than 55w.

I do not know the size of the wiring already available but a 15 amp fuse is too small for globes with a wattage greater than 55w.

For instance, a set of 100w globes would draw between 14 and 16 amps, depending on the amount of voltage drop in the wiring to the driving lights.

Even at 14 amp, the minimum AVAILABLE fuse size is 20 amps for safe operation of a set of 100w globes and if your fit 130w globes, you need to protect them with a 30 amp fuse.

PLEASE BE AWARE, you can’t just change the size of the fuse with a higher current rated fuse unless the wiring can handle the higher currents.

If you are using 100w a set of globes with the 15 amp fuse, you will not blow the fuse straightaway but you will eventually melt the fuse.

Any fuse must be current rated at least 25% great than the maximum continuos current load being applied to it and the wiring must have a continuos current rate 40% greater then the fuse.

BTW, using a small fuse will also cause excessive voltage drop and will help to make your lights run duller.

[gavinwibrow]

And is there still remaining the potential to fry the headlight switching for a D2a in particular?
(I think the D2a was the one that Tim did not develop a headlight switch kit for and was a lot more difficult to suitably modify? - although it has been done on this forum).

[OffTrack]

And is there still remaining the potential to fry the headlight switching for a D2a in particular?
(I think the D2a was the one that Tim did not develop a headlight switch kit for and was a lot more difficult to suitably modify? - although it has been done on this forum).

It's the same wiring through the switch on the D2a - after all it is a stopgap FACELIFTed D2 not at D3. :p.

The issue with the D2a's is the connector on the headlight units makes it difficult to do a simple plugin replacement harness. The D2's use a standard connector on main beam so much simpler to make a plug in kit.

[PaulMc0308]

... The issue with the D2a's is the connector on the headlight units makes it difficult to do a simple plugin replacement harness.


It's quite easy to make a 'main beam' tap-off from the D2a's 9-way headlamp connector, using BMW components.

This doesn't involve cutting or splicing into the existing headlamp harness, but it does require the main beam terminal to be released from the 9-way connector.

It can be removed and the headlamp harness returned to 'factory' condition, leaving no trace.

I'll sort out some pictures and BMW part numbers and post the details here.


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

[Stuart MacLeay]

This is a brilliant tutorial, I have managed to get all the bits and pieces to use the modified diagram, only thing left is to pick my spots, thank you.
Stuart

[ntguy]

Looks like Paul as disappeared or forgotten?

Any one found out the BMW options

[HUE166]

G'day Paul,

I have an auxiliary light switch which I believe would be the same as the switch pictured in your diagrams with the No.2 inside the headlight and beam icon. I am wanting to install this switch as an auxiliary driving light switch in my 2011 Defender 110 Double cab.

As it's a double cab, the rear window washer switch position is redundant although the current blank switch does have a loom connected to the blue switch connector that would usually run the rear window washer. I would like to position the auxiliary driving light switch in that position and (hopefully) utilise the existing wires and pins from the existing blue connector switch for the "panel illumination" function as well as run other wires to the driving light relay and main beam supply.

Would you have any diagrams that would help me identify the wires from the rear window washer switch connector (blue) for the panel illumination function and how they should be connected to the black auxiliary light (black) connector, as well as, how the relay wire and the main beam supply wire should also be connected to the (black) connector?

I hope that made sense.

Cheers,

Rohan.

[PaulMc0308]

The Defender spotlight switch - YUG000540LNF -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/215.jpg


This switch is a latching earth-switching switch, which uses the Black 5-way switch connector, and should be wired as follows -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/216.jpg


The Black switch connector should be wired, as follows -

Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)
Pin 2 - Dash Illumination
Pin 3 - Not Used
Pin 4 - Earth
Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED



You can use the dash illumination and earth wires from the rear washer's Blue switch connector.

The dash illumination is on a Red/Orange wire in Pin 5

The earth is on a Black wire in Pin 2

This is the wiring diagram for the rear wash/wipe on a 2007 -2011 Defender -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/217.jpg



This is how to release the terminals from a switch connector.

Use a small screwdriver to open the hinged terminal lock, 1st side -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/218.jpg


And on the 2nd side -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/219.jpg


Hinged terminal lock opened -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/220.jpg


Use a safety pin to lift the terminal retaining tab above the wire's terminal -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/221.jpg


At the same time as lifting the terminal retaining tab, pull gently on the wire -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/222.jpg


Terminal released from connector housing -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/223.jpg


Empty connector, showing the terminal retaining tabs at the top of the terminal cavities -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/224.jpg



Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

[HUE166]

Thank you so much Paul. You have saved me a heap of time and that means I will have the job done tomorrow.

Thanks a million,

Rohan.