perentie sliding window removal

[charlie a]

Have just bought a 110 Perentie and I'm wondering how to replace the door sliding window felt strips and also how to replace a window if I ever broke one.
Can anyone help?

[Blknight.aus]

with many swear words.

they are held in by small screws in the bottom (from memory) you take the verticals out first (if you still have them) then slide the window to one side, remove the screws, slide it the other way, remove those screws then pry the channel out... It'll bend

the real trick is not getting it out but getting it in without bending it so it fouls.

if its just rattling windows, stick some foam hearing protection in them or cut a bit of foam with sticky backing and put a square at the top and bottom.

[cummo]

Charlie A,

The passenger-side window on my Perentie rattles like a machine gun - I thought after 30+ years of driving a Series 1 I was pretty tolerant of rattles but that glass rattle is like fingernails on a blackboard x 10 to me! Unfortunately it's also right next to my missus's left ear which means I tend to get a lot of death-stares also.....I currently have it packed with various bits of foam and rubber insertion so it's as quiet as I can get it, but it's also permanently closed as a result.

I've downloaded as an image off the internet a copy of a Land Rover exploded view parts diagram for the Wolf XD doortop which I think is the same as the doortop for the NAS-spec D90 which I think may be the same as the Perentie however I haven't yet had a close look or a strip-down of mine to check. I would like to have a plan for seal replacement before I strip it down to a pile of bits.

A firm in the US called Garrison Outfitters sell a rubber channel seal kit as a replacement for original window seals in the NAS-spec D90 doortops. The kit I think can be bought direct from them or it can also be sourced fro distributors of Terra-Firma gear here in Oz AFAIK. Garrison also have a couple of You-Tube clips on seal replacement using their seals.

If anyone can confirm whether the Perentie doortops are the same arrangement as the UK Wolf and/or NAS-spec D90 prior to my pulling it to bits it will be greatly appreciated.

[Barefoot Dave]

G'Day mate and welcome to the Perentie club.
Which bit do you need a part number for?
See diagram:

[yt110]

I have fitted the Garrison Outfitters kit to the perentie doors I have on my county, no more rattles.

There are 2 white bits(per door) of plastic that fit over the bottom slides that sometimes wear. PM me your address and I'll send you 4.

Jim

[cummo]

BDave - Attached (hopefully) are the images of the diagram and parts list/numbers for the Wolf XD door tops. Comparing the two diagrams they seem to be match in arrangement and the part numbers correlate. Fingers crossed will be able to source any bits I may need following strip-down using the part numbers.

Jim (yt110) - Mate I'll take you up on your offer of the strips. Much appreciated. If at strip-down mine look OK I'll shoot them back to your postal address. I will pm you my postal address ASAP. As of yesterday though fixing the door top glass has dropped in priority by one; I now have a knock/rattle in the rear of the motor at high revs in 2nd and 3rd gear I want to try and track down first :( There's always something isn't there!

[cummo]

Jim (yt110),

Forgot to ask - good to know that the Garrison Outfitters seal kit does the trick. My Perentie window glass panels are 4mm thick which AFAIK is standard. Garrison Outfitters website state that their seals are for 5mm thick glass which I think is what the NAS-spec D90's have.

If your Perentie door tops run 4mm glass also did you have any issues with the Garrison seals fitting? As I haven't pulled mine out yet hopefully I'm anticipating problems which may not eventuate.

Cheers

Dave

[yt110]

Dave

Sorry for the late reply.

The ones on my county have 5mm glass, I just checked my spare set of door tops and one has 5mm glass and the other, like yours has 4mm

I would think that the kits would be ok with the 4mm glass as the glass is a firm fit in the seal, but I would check with Garrison first if I was you

Cheers Jim

PS Have you PM me you address yet?

[cummo]

Jim,

Sorry no haven't PM'd you yet; been caught up.

I will check with Garrison Outfitters first re. the 4mm thick glass; like you I suspect their seals will be OK for the thinner glass but as the kit isn't cheap I think it's worth confirming. I imagine if the seal needs 5mm thickness to work effectively I could always adhere a thin aluminium or plastic strip to one side of each of the glass panels at top & bottom to make up the required thickness.

Still trying to track down my gear change rattle; pretty sure it's not the motor (whew) - seemes to be a contact rattle of something local to the gearbox/transfer case or with the gearbox/transfer case itself (hopefully the former rather than the latter.

I will post-up the answer from Garrison when I receive it; might be useful for others as well.

Dave

[cummo]

Jim,

Reply from Garrison Outfitters re. the suitability of 4mm thick glass for use with their standard replacement window channel kit below:-


"Thank you for your interest in this product.

I would love to say definitively that it will work with the 4mm glass,but it has never been tested that way as those windows are very hard to comeby. What we have found however is that the window glass tends to 'lean' to oneside and push against the rubber channel. This maybe due to the way the metalframe sits on the sliding track in the bottom of the frame. I would expect thiswould be the same with the 4mm glass, so there might be less flapping aroundthan you would expect with the extra room since the glass wants to push againstone side."


Sounds like it should be OK to use with the thinner glass (certainly better than the current rattle) so I will order up a kit.

I will PM you soon re. your offer of the plastic strips too.

Cheers

Dave

[apocalypse_now]

Hi Dave,

How did this kit work out for you? Im interested in it for my perentie too


Jim,

Reply from Garrison Outfitters re. the suitability of 4mm thick glass for use with their standard replacement window channel kit below:-


"Thank you for your interest in this product.

I would love to say definitively that it will work with the 4mm glass,but it has never been tested that way as those windows are very hard to comeby. What we have found however is that the window glass tends to 'lean' to oneside and push against the rubber channel. This maybe due to the way the metalframe sits on the sliding track in the bottom of the frame. I would expect thiswould be the same with the 4mm glass, so there might be less flapping aroundthan you would expect with the extra room since the glass wants to push againstone side."


Sounds like it should be OK to use with the thinner glass (certainly better than the current rattle) so I will order up a kit.

I will PM you soon re. your offer of the plastic strips too.

Cheers

Dave

[tyne]

Not sure if I'm helping on the topic but I just picked up a couple metres of the rubber seal stuff you use to stop drafts on your window at home from bunnings. Pulled all the screws out as mentioned and out the window came, my biggest problem was not dropping 1 of the penels as I did it and I just ran a stip of rubber on the top of the window. Easy as..

[cummo]

I'm embarrassed to say that the Garrison kit is still sitting on the shelf in the shed. I had intended to overhaul the windows prior to rego renewal in August but got caught up with some other more pressing pre-rego jobs instead.


I still intend to do it, but in addition to having a non-functional blower fan, the heater control lever is now seized in the "on" position directing hot air onto drivers and passengers feet. This was OK during winter, but coming into summer I need to get it sorted I reckon, and whilst I'm working on the controls I figure I should sort out the blower fan as well.


So for now the passenger-side windows will have to stay blocked quiet with rubber wedges. Rest assured as soon as I fit the Garrison kit I'll post up the results.


Cheers, Dave

[Lotz-A-Landies]

G'Day mate and welcome to the Perentie club.
Which bit do you need a part number for?
See diagram:Dave

Do you have the part number and supplier for 29 and 30 on your diagram (assuming its the RPS)

Diana

[Barefoot Dave]

PM sent

[OneOneZero]

Hi All,


Replaced the seals in the windows today to stop the annoying rattling that sounded like a machine gun. After a little driving around I decided to chuck in the Raven weather strip that you can get at Bunnings. Temporary fix but worked really well. Once you undo those three screws in the bottom the windows slide out easy as, Clean it all up and install the strips and your all good. Self adhesive and cost $8 for two windows. Sounds good to me!


Cheers

[lucas.armstrong.77]

Bought the garrison outfitters window slide kit last night, should be here in 5-10 days (I hope)

[cummo]

I'm betting that you'll get your kit delivered and installed before mine goes in Lucas so you'll be able to tell me what it's like!


Dave

[lucas.armstrong.77]

Hopefully it arrives before the 3rd as I'm on holidays for a few weeks but will certainly tell you what it's like, bought it direct from them

[solidrock]

I have installed the garrison outfitters kit and I must say that in my particular case the improvement is amazing, I can't believe how much noise the windows were making, I knew it was a lot but wow. The side glass on my GS is 4mm.

Installation was pretty straightforward, a few surprises with my door tops involving silicon:censored: and screws for rivets and vice versa - but it adds to the mystery I guess :)

pics attached.

[mick88]

Charlie A,

The passenger-side window on my Perentie rattles like a machine gun - I thought after 30+ years of driving a Series 1 I was pretty tolerant of rattles but that glass rattle is like fingernails on a blackboard x 10 to me! Unfortunately it's also right next to my missus's left ear which means I tend to get a lot of death-stares also.....I currently have it packed with various bits of foam and rubber insertion so it's as quiet as I can get it, but it's also permanently closed as a result.





X 2 :(
Folded up bit of cardboard solving the problem at present!

[Outback]

Here you go.


STEPS 1 & 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFA_wHh5bqM

STEPS 3,4 and 5.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReMCFMlhz8E

[cummo]

Hi Solidrock :)

Was wondering how long it took to strip the window glass from the door-tops and fit the Garrison seals? I'm down to the last day of my Christmas hols - had lots of good intentions - and still haven't fitted the seal kit to my door-tops though come hell or high water I intend to take the tops off tomorrow morning and start-in on them. I'll be replacing the rubber strip between the door-tops and door-bottoms as well due to them being perished, though they're on back-order and won't be in till late next week.

Cheers, Dave

[solidrock]

Hi Solidrock :)

Was wondering how long it took to strip the window glass from the door-tops and fit the Garrison seals?

Hi Cummo, it took about an hour and a bit to do both of my door tops.

A decent portion of time was spent gently prying the aluminium panel that holds the rails and windows into the frame as after it was de-riveted I found it had also been siliconed on, but I subsequently saved time on removing the existing felts as they weren't glued in, so I didn't have to bother with the goo gone etc. So all up, if you have stock standard "unmodified" tops I think an hour is all you need.

[cummo]

Thanks Solidrock!
Doesn't sound like as big a job as I thought it would be. As usual though my wife had other plans for my last day of hols so I didn't get to take the door-tops off after all - still No. 1 on the playlist of Perentie tasks though.
Cheers, Dave

[Paultan]

I have installed the garrison outfitters kit and I must say that in my particular case the improvement is amazing, I can't believe how much noise the windows were making, I knew it was a lot but wow. The side glass on my GS is 4mm.

Installation was pretty straightforward, a few surprises with my door tops involving silicon:censored: and screws for rivets and vice versa - but it adds to the mystery I guess :)

pics attached.

I'm just trying to fit my Garrison Door kit. I have removed all the screws, and have also noticed that the frames doesn't "simply" lift out. I have noticed the silicone also, did you just use force to remove this?? I also had one of the those screw heads shear off :censored: but have drilled it out, but there might still be a burr or something, but even accounting for that the blasted thing doesn't move at all !!

PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!

[Paultan]

Hi Cummo, it took about an hour and a bit to do both of my door tops.

A decent portion of time was spent gently prying the aluminium panel that holds the rails and windows into the frame as after it was de-riveted I found it had also been siliconed on, but I subsequently saved time on removing the existing felts as they weren't glued in, so I didn't have to bother with the goo gone etc. So all up, if you have stock standard "unmodified" tops I think an hour is all you need.

Opps should have read all the posts before I posted my last one Solidrock :bangin:

Do you have any tips on how to remove the aluminium panel, was it brute force??

PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!

[solidrock]

Opps should have read all the posts before I posted my last one Solidrock :bangin:

Do you have any tips on how to remove the aluminium panel, was it brute force??

PLEASE IGNORE MANAGED TO GET THE BLASTED THING OFF !!

Haha no worries, the info is always in the last place you look, often after you've already asked the question...happens to me all the time! :D

Good to hear you managed to sort the tops out, hope the seals work as well for you as they did for me.

[Phil B]

In a bid to stop the window rattles and whistles on 48-749 (4x4 Perentie) I tried draft seals from B....gs-cheap and not fully successful.:(
Had a look at Garrisons seal kit- looks great but $275 locally? Expensive for what it is. The kit from the USA costs about $150-still too expensive 'cos I'm a tightarse.
Bought some flocked Bailey channel (serial number 350.360) from MVR Industrial in Penrith. I bought 5m and had 400mm left over.
The installation took 2 hours and the result is really good. No rattles or whistles at last!!!:D
It cost $12.50/m, total $62,50 incl GST. Much better!!
MVR can be found at 1/44 Peachtree Rd, Penrith, NSW 0404298064
They have all kind of rubber seals, pinchweld, screen rubbers and many other shapes and sizes. Check their web site. Highly recommended.


Regards,

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I repaired my windows with the standard parts and it made a huge difference.

One thing that I did while I had it all out was to repair/modify the window locks. (RRC4878 & RRC4879) What I did was cut a small rectangle of high density plastic about 2.5mm thick and squeezed it into the plastic locking mechanism above the cam follower.

This made the engagement more positive and the locking function work again.

[Peakpotential]

I have fitted the Garrison Outfitters kit to the perentie doors I have on my county, no more rattles.

There are 2 white bits(per door) of plastic that fit over the bottom slides that sometimes wear. PM me your address and I'll send you 4.

Jim
Hi Everyone,

I am new new to this window thread as we are having some problems with our left window.

YT110 mentioned 4 plastic sliders that go in the sliding window. Just wondering how I may get some of those plastic sliders as it seems ours has worn.

Cheers,

[BadCo.]

Hi Everyone,

I am new new to this window thread as we are having some problems with our left window.

YT110 mentioned 4 plastic sliders that go in the sliding window. Just wondering how I may get some of those plastic sliders as it seems ours has worn.

Cheers,

Just search for what he mention, Garrison Outfitters.