L322 questions.

[careyba]

Hi guys, I am looking fairly seriously about returning back to the Rangie world with one of these models. I have owned RR classics in the past (72 model and 87 hiline model) and found them reliable mostly but did encourage quite a bit of tinkering.

We ended up going the Landcruiser path just for reliability with long journeys (living in Darwin and quite remote). However, the draw of a $30k luxury vehicle like the l322 is getting too hard to resist.

I have found a few posts that detail common faults (diffs, air suspension, electrics etc). However, what I am interested in is the general feel people have for the reliability of these cars. Obviously they probably will not be as hands off as a Cruiser (never touched it in anger with 150k on the clock). I am happy to do some things myself but I don't really want to spend every weekend fiddling or on the other hand taking a drive down the coast for a few days and worrying about breaking down.

I am also tossing up getting either a low km 2002-2004 model (v8 130k for around 26k) or a much newer v6 itself with 50k for around $60k. Obviously, 30k buys a lot of repair work but does it buy any more piece of mind?

If you guys could let me know your experiences and what I would be getting into that would be great. Cheers, Brad.

[Laurie]

Brad
Once you really drive one your hooked :D

The common problem with the Td6 are auto failure in the early models ! plenty of info on this forum regarding this. Radiator issues with V8 same again posts on here, this is usually more maintenance issue with older vehicle. Air suspension problems are usually time related fatigue failures of the airbag, compressors can be rebuilt cheaply. All other off roaders will now have these problems as the follow the RR's air suspension route. If you think RR parts are dear ! check out the prices for the new Jeeps with air suspension.
At the moment you can source parts from the UK/Europe and have them delivered to your house in 7 days or less for 50% or more of the cost from LR Australia.
The one thing I would love to see for the early L322's though is a locking diff. The Active/Electronic diff was only available from 2007 onwards.

The only must have item you need is a fault reader / re-set tool; again many posts here on the different models available. All new vehicles are so electronic fault dependable, I would have one regardless of the make of vehicle.

Don't forget all those 4x4 repair shops you see are fixing Toyos, Nissans etc they are having problems too !! If you follow a good maintenance programme you will lower your chances of a failure. Plenty of info and videos available on here and on FFrr the English L322 Site for repairs and modifications.

You can pickup a good TDv8 for around $60k "my personal preference" though mileage will a bit higher, but still under 100k; than a v6 in the Sport. A little tickle will see a very reliable 200Kw and 700 Nm of torque.

Laurie

[Homestar]

As mentioned, the GM trannie in the early TD6's is the biggest concern. I haven't heard of many issues with diffs as you mentioned, apart from the trannie the drivetrain is generally good.

All in all, I have found ours to be very reliable apart from early issues with the trannie. Just be aware that the cheaper end of the market will have higher KM on them - this is not necessarily a bad thing, but as the KM reach around 180 to 200KKM then things will need to be done if they haven't already been - like any car as it gets older.

Front air struts, inline fuel pump, tank fuel pump, brakes, suspension bushes etc. none of them are hard to do, nor that expensive either. The TD6 engine is bulletproof and will last for many years, even with high KM.

Ours has over 200,000KM on it now and it still feels tight, is rattle and speak free despite it being used off road now and then. You will be hard pressed to find a better built car.

Oh, and like a lot of modern vehicles, they chew through batteries. More than 2 years from a battery and you be doing well. They will start to throw all sorts of strange fault codes when the battery is on the way out. :)

Be aware, once you buy one, you will be hooked.:). Buy it and love it!

[spudboy]

Hey Brad - buy mine!! It is in the markets section :)

Issues we've had with ours are just the usual stuff. New front diff replaced under warranty. Front airbag suspension kept going down slowly, so they got replaced last year (simple to do yourself BTW - and not too expensive if you get the parts from UK).

Less serious items are things like the pixels in the centre display console going dead, and every 2 or 3 months the 10-stacker CD player decides it won't play CDs, so you have to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds, and then it is happy again.

It's been very reliable, although ours is not high KMs so maybe they get bigger problems when the Kms get bigger, but have been very happy with it.

A lot of car for the money.

HTH
David

[careyba]

One more question, in terms of DIY, I remember my old Rangies were very easy to work on (needed to be lol!). I developed mechanic skills I never thought I had (rebuilding gearboxes, engines, suspension etc). Are these newer models similar to work on or do you need specialist tools and equipment.

I am going to the Gold Coast to test drive a few tomorrow. If we like the car (we being the missus), I might follow up with you on your vehicle David.

[Homestar]

I have found them very easy to work on. Unless you open up the engine, there aren't any special tools you will need. A good set of basic hand tools will do most things on them.:)

A word of warning - if you test drive one, you WILL want one... :D

[careyba]

Iam test driving a few up at the Gold Coast. One is an 02 V8 with 125k on the clock for $25000. Be interesting to see what the difference between the diesel and petrol is. I currently drive a V8 petrol 200 series cruiser so am no stranger to high fuel consumption (16l/100km around town). The diesel sounds good but no good versions around here and David's car is over in Adelaide.

25k seems almost too cheap for a car that retailed for $189k 10 years ago!

[spudboy]

When I replaced my front airbag springs, I got a little plug in device from a Canadian company called GAP IID. It plugs into the ODB II (??) socket under the dashboard.

This puts up menu items on the RR dashboard to allow you to read (and reset) error codes, and set the height of the suspension and a whole lot of of other things too.

Without a tool like this, you have to take it to a dealer. From memory, it cost me about $350, which was worth the cost just on one job (the front spring replacement).

[Homestar]

The V8 is a very nice drive.:). I liked it more than the diesel but couldn't justify the extra fuel myself. If you don't mind that, then you should be very pleased with how it goes.

Economy would be about the same as your cruiser.

I can get down into the low 9's on the freeway with the diesel and about 12 around town

[careyba]

I have a scan gauge tool that I plug into the cruiser ECU. This is used to reset codes on the cruiser and supposedly can be used on any post 1996 car (according to the brochure anyway). Hopefully this works with the Rangie.

[33chinacars]

A word of warning - if you test drive one, you WILL want one... :D

That's what happened to me. Had a P38 beautiful car . Just thought I'd have a look at an L322 out of curiosity. Bugger was hooked. After driving both V8 & TD6 ended up with a TD6 very soon after. V8 magnificent to driver but as we intended to to do a bit of towing went for the TD6. No regrets.

Also if you get on buy an IIDTool

Home - GAP Diagnostic (http://www.gap-diagnostic.com/)

I think your scan gauge will only have limited use with the RR its a generic tool and not vehicle specific.

Gary

[careyba]

How have you found the overall reliability so far Gary?

[jsp]

Mine has had a few minor failures (first TD6 in the country), but has never stranded me.

last week it stopped when I pulled off the Strzelecki, panick set in, but didn't take long to find a loose battery terminal and we were on the road again. Thats the only time in 2 years its even hinted at stranding me.

The altenator went, but it gave me plenty of warning, and given the type of car wasn't too expensive to replace at all. Torque converter went not long ago.

The only advice I could offer, apart from Spudboy is a great guy and treats his gear with great care, is pick a colour and trim combination you really want and wait for it to come along.

Not bad for a car thats over 250k old, and I put 40k on a year so far!

[33chinacars]

In over 2 years of ownership no major problems. Just normal servicing. Replaced an inline fuel pump. Nothing else to report . What can I say I'm rapt.
Find yourself a good example and go for it. Paid above average price for mine at the time but was more than happy to do so.

Gary

[harlie]

Had mine 5 1/4 years now.

* Left me stranded when the inline fuel pump went, fortunately I was at home. This one is common, just replace the pump every 100-120K.
* Vertical tilt on steering column has packed it in (probably not going to fix it - we both have the wheel at the same height so the only time it operated was to swing up couple cm when car was turned off, reach is different).
* Now has an oil leak requiring a $10 gasket. :D

* I replaced the front struts as preventative maintenance and new one failed :mad:, still has the old ones in with the replacements on the shed floor waiting for a free Saturday to change them and fit the compressor rebuild kit – it’s now a bit slow, still operating OK.

Friend of mine bought his new in 2004. He has had the inline fuel pump and 1 front strut. His pump failed 3 days after mine, we traded sob stories...

[careyba]

Went and had a look at a few in the Gold Coast. One was a little tired feeling (180k v8) but one, Brittish racing green (my favorite) had low kms and good power (v8 again). However, it had a sagging head lining and some oil spray inside the wheel arches (couldn't see the source). However, $25k for a 120k km vehicle is pretty good!.

I think I need to fly down to Victoria as there are quite a few nice models down there for similar km and in superb condition.

There is definitely a nice feel however to the car!

One question, with the air suspension does it normally creak a bit on the way down. Also, how long should it take to pump to offload height? (while sitting on the kerb, not driving).

[spudboy]

My suspension is quiet on the way up or down.

Time to go from lowest height to max height would be less than a minute. If it takes a long time to raise, the compressor is probably one the way out or something is leaking.

BTW - it will not lower if any of the doors are open....

[Homestar]

Mine makes a bit of noise going down if the car is stationary, I think the bushes in the front end are a bit worn so I think that makes the noise. Mine has over 200,000 on it though.

[Summiitt]

Where is the inline pump that normally fails? I think I might change it when I do the service this weekend..

[harlie]

Where is the inline pump that normally fails? I think I might change it when I do the service this weekend..
There is a cover to remove beside the fuel tank (pasenger side under car). Have a few hose clamps ready to go.

[harlie]

...
One question, with the air suspension does it normally creak a bit on the way down.
.....

I would be very surprised if there are any that don't creek when changing height while stationary. With independant suspension, when changing height the track (distance across between tyres) changes. The stress on suspension components as the tyres are dragged sideways across the pavement is considerable. The wheelbase also changes slightly, so if your foot is hard on the brakes, watch it move when released.

If the car is rolling even at the slowest rate, the noises should not be there. Mine doesn’t make noise if on sand either for obvious reasons. As a rule, I don’t make changes while stationary on hard surfaces, even parked on grass it’s not real happy.

[33chinacars]

Read somewhere that you should go to access height before you stop.

[Homestar]

Read somewhere that you should go to access height before you stop.

I think it is in the manual somewhere. I usually do it on the move, but sometimes pull up and SWMBO complains I've forgotten about her short legs again, so sometimes I just do it in the carpark. Could be why I need new bushes all around...:D

[careyba]

There has just appeared a 2004 TD Rangie on carsales in Victoria. The car has done 125k and looks in perfect nick. The dealer wants $36,800 which is a 10k premium on the Petrol. Otherwise colour etc all looks good.

Is there any bargaining power on the diesel or are they just that sought after? Seems 4-5K overpriced to me.

[Homestar]

Is there any bargaining power on the diesel or are they just that sought after? Seems 4-5K overpriced to me.

Yep, haggle about $7K off whatever they are asking - this will cover a trannie rebuild when the time comes...:D

But seriously, you can bargain hard on these, they are slow sellers at both car yards and privately. Go back each week and offer them $1000 less each time...

[harlie]

The diesel has had a 10k premium pretty much since they started turning over 2nd hand.

What is the build date? Transmision was changed 03/2004.

[careyba]

The compliance on Carsales is listed as 06/2004. I guess this doesn't mean it was necessarily manufactured before the date you suggested.

Did LR fix the issues with the 5 speed past this date?

[Laurie]

From TOPix

VIN: SALLMAMC34A156259

Vehicle: Range Rover / L322

Model year: 2004

Build date: 19-Nov-2003

Selling dealer: M1154

Warranty start date: 21-Jun-2004

Laurie

[BigJon]

I think it is in the manual somewhere. I usually do it on the move, but sometimes pull up and SWMBO complains I've forgotten about her short legs again, so sometimes I just do it in the carpark. Could be why I need new bushes all around...:D

You could get a Mrs who is nearly 6 feet tall like mine. Saves all the hassles of lowering the suspension, moving the seat and mirrors, etc.:cool:

Mind you, a new Mrs will cost you a hell of a lot more than new suspension bushes! :D

[careyba]

Well, I have picked up the Rangie this morning and am driving it back to NSW from Melbourne as we speak (good way to test the car within the 5000km statutory warranty).

The car is immaculate and runs very well. The gearbox is completely smooth when changing and no slap when placed in reverse. The only issue I can find is that the steering wheel telescopic feature doesn't work(sounds like the motor in the steering wheel is not engaging). The up and down works fine but not the telescope. I imagine this isn't that tricky to fix and I may be able to get it fixed under my warranty. If anyone has any hints as to the eased this fixI would be all ears!

First impressions is a very refined vehicle, plenty of power for a 6cyl diesel and good economy so far (readout is 9.2 l/100km).

I am already at the stage where I could just stand and stare at the car (I love the British racing green!)

[Homestar]

Nice.:). Don't forget some pics when you get a chance.

The lack of telescoping function is a common issue and if you can get you warranty to pay for it - do it, as its not as simple to fix as you might think. There is a plastic nut that strips and as far as I know you can't buy just the nut - but a whole new steering column.

Most people just live with when it goes. There is a lot more detail on this on the Full Fat RR website - join up there and have a search or ask the question. They are a good bunch and I hang out there a bit as well.:)

[careyba]

I have attached a few photos (complete with bugs from my drive from Melbourne to Coffs Harbour)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/103600993@N04/9988728385/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/103600993@N04/9988732335/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/103600993@N04/9988771936/

[33chinacars]

Very nice . I'm sure you will love it

[careyba]

I noticed driving at low speeds (car park driving) that the steering when turning to the right feels notchy like the tyre is rubbing (it isn't I checked). I suspect that there may be a small issue with the power steering circuit that I may be able to get sorted under warranty (while it lasts :)).

I have forgotten the "almost there" feeling of owning a Rangie. I have "almost" had all the problems worked out in every Rangie I have owned.

[Axle]

That slight fluttering you feel in the steering at low speed could well be the Sevotronic valve failing , not a particularly expensive problem .Not uncommon either .

[donrover0]

Same colour(s) as my recently regoed and now daily driver 2003 TD6
I added a stainless/plastic wrap around nudge bar, few exterior chrome bits.