No drive

[mtb_gary]

The W4 competition looks like it has claimed a victim....me. Coming up out of a steep muddy gully initially with wheels spinning in the sloppy mud no more drive! The car is in gear with no apparent problems there but put the foot on the accelerator and engene revs go up and the front prop shaft turns. One potential problem is the LHS CV joint as the rubber boot is now looking somewhat distorted, but why no drive to the rear? I thought the VC would transfer at least some power to the rear? Any thoughts would be appreciated. In the meantime the car is still up at Toodyay and tomorrow or Tuesday I will be up there to collect it.
On a positive note up until then the car had behaved brilliantly and was looking pretty well placed......maybe next year :D

Gary

[Keithy P38]

That's a shame to hear mate. I've got no idea why the VC has failed the way you describe, usually they fail in the locked state! Perhaps you've broken an output shaft from the transfer case.

Hope it's not too much of an expensive repair for you mate!

Cheers
Keithy

[mtb_gary]

That's a shame to hear mate. I've got no idea why the VC has failed the way you describe, usually they fail in the locked state! Perhaps you've broken an output shaft from the transfer case.

Hope it's not too much of an expensive repair for you mate!

Cheers
Keithy

That was a quick reply! Yes, I'm hoping not too expensive too!

Gary

[TheTree]

Gary,

Bummer mate, I too hope it's not too expensive

Better luck next year :D

Steve

[Keithy P38]

Yeah, I must have logged in at the same time you posted!

I have heard of people having issues with torque converter engagement in the past - the spline engagement of our torque converters is only very small and has been known to shear the splines out of the torque converter, but you are getting drive to the front end so I'd dismiss that theory!

Good luck mate!

[wayneg]

Sorry to hear of your woe`s. Sound strange you are getting drive to the front but not rear. I have heard of the transfer box output shaft stripping the splines but that would lose all drive unless its possible it snapped or lost only the rear splines. My understanding is they lose the centre spline

( the link is for the classic part, not P38a but would be similar)


RANGE ROVER OUTPUT SHAFT BORG WARNER TRANSFER BOX | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-OUTPUT-SHAFT-BORG-WARNER-TRANSFER-BOX-/260540326236)

[mtb_gary]

I should add, I did not witness the prop shaft turning (I was in the drivers seat at the time) but the guys who relayed what was happening are experienced 4x4'ers and I would consider know their s**t when it comes to Land Rovers.

It had all of us scratching our heads for what may be the cause :mad:

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Sorry to hear of your woe`s. Sound strange you are getting drive to the front but not rear. I have heard of the output shaft stripping the splines but that would lose all drive unless its possible it snapped or lost only the rear splines. My understanding is they lose the centre spline


RANGE ROVER OUTPUT SHAFT BORG WARNER TRANSFER BOX | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-OUTPUT-SHAFT-BORG-WARNER-TRANSFER-BOX-/260540326236)

Thanks for your thoughts Wayne, I guess I'm not going to be placing as high as you in your previous W4, but I did take your advice....low first and slowly does it, it worked a treat, I surprised myself just how well they perform even against other Land Rovers! :D

Gary

[wayneg]

Another completely wild stab in the dark would be the hi low motor or ecu putting the transfer box into neutral. I would presume the dash readout would state its in neutral but not sure.
You can force the transfer box into neutral by fitting a fuse into the empty slot in the drivers seat side fusebox so I suppose a short circuit could do the same?

Remember the fuse thing if you are going to tow it back

[mtb_gary]

Another completely wild stab in the dark would be the hi low motor or ecu putting the transfer box into neutral. I would presume the dash readout would state its in neutral but not sure.
You can force the transfer box into neutral by fitting a fuse into the empty slot in the drivers seat side fusebox so I suppose a short circuit could do the same?

Remember the fuse thing if you are going to tow it back

The dash readout reads correctly (follows where the shifter is selected). Definitely worth a look though. Due to the weight of the car and the hire trailers rated at 1200kg, I'm currently thinking the back of a truck might be the go.

Gary

[intheozone]

That sucks!!

Sorry to hear of your dramas and I was also sorry I could not make it my self for the W4 Challenge.

[mtb_gary]

That sucks!!

Sorry to hear of your dramas and I was also sorry I could not make it my self for the W4 Challenge.

Dramas with the car aside you missed a fantastic weekend :D. I'll be back for more next year.

Gary

[intheozone]

I was looking forward to meeting you and your rigs.

[mtb_gary]

Step number one completed, the car is now at home ($350 on the back of a tow truck for around 140 k's) and has had the mud power cleaned off it (hopefully it will rain a bit more and clean the mud off the driveway :p). Step two is where the "fun begins" diagnosis and part replacement. The front prop shaft definitely turns when in gear trying to drive the front wheels, however, with the front left CV almost certainly destroyed there is no forwards momentum. As for the rear drive???

As a side thought if I had the Ashcroft ATB in the front the RHS would have continued to drive but possibly leading to greater damage along the drivetrain should the stuffed CV seize up?

Gary

[OneGoat]

Hey Gary,
Glad you got it home safely.
$350 isn't bad, thats about as much fuel as I used getting you back to camp :p.
Hope you find the reason for the no rear drive and it doesn't hurt the wallet to much.
Catch you at the awards night.

Ben

[RoverHse]

Hi Gary, pleasure to have given you a lift home. I'm very curious as to the diagnosis. Hope it's not expensive. Cheers Vernon

[benji]

A bit unusual that two things have gone wrong at once, or just unlucky.

Glad you've got it back home, at least drive line work is reasonably simple on the p38s.

[wayneg]

I was discussing your no drive issue with PeterJam earlier and he seems to think if you have completely disengaged a front CV by it or the axle shaft breaking you could lose all drive. I am not clever enough to grasp it however Peter is very clued up on these things. With that in mind If I were you I would deal with the front CV first and see the result.
Get a cv from the UK if you need one. My last one was something silly like 25 pounds plus shipping.

[mtb_gary]

Hey Gary,
Glad you got it home safely.
$350 isn't bad, thats about as much fuel as I used getting you back to camp :p.
Hope you find the reason for the no rear drive and it doesn't hurt the wallet to much.
Catch you at the awards night.

Ben

Thanks Ben, I really appreciated the tow back to camp! Northam Towing is who I used, hopefully I'll not need to use them again but would happily recommend them.

All been well I'll se you at the awards night.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Hi Gary, pleasure to have given you a lift home. I'm very curious as to the diagnosis. Hope it's not expensive. Cheers Vernon

Vernon, I was thankful you are also in Mullaloo! I appreciated the lift home, and it was in a p38 :D. I'll keep you posted on the progress, hopefully not too expensive :o. Next year I'll be back to complete the challenge and look forward to the Bindoon Bakehouse pie on the way home.

Thanks once again for the lift home.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

I was discussing your no drive issue with PeterJam earlier and he seems to think if you have completely disengaged a front CV by it or the axle shaft breaking you could lose all drive. I am not clever enough to grasp it however Peter is very clued up on these things. With that in mind If I were you I would deal with the front CV first and see the result.
Get a cv from the UK if you need one. My last one was something silly like 25 pounds plus shipping.

Thanks Wayne, I'm taking the night off from working on the car but will start the dismantling tomorrow after I get home from work. A scary thought though if you are traveling alone and break a front axle or destroy CV joint! I would have thought the VC would have transferred the drive to the rear! I will be taking it one step at a time to see what has broken. It sounded a bit like a large branch breaking off a tree when it went, enough that a couple of observers outside of the car presumed I had hit something below the mud (if only).

I had a look at your post re changing your CV's, I don't like the look of getting that big nut off as I don't have access to a 3/4" rattle gun. But that's a job for tomorrow ;)

Gary

[wayneg]

There is a centre dif in the transfer box, the viscous is to the front of the dif. If there is no resistance from the front the dif wont transfer power to the rear and just turn the front, as open difs send power to the end of least resistance.
That is how Peter explained it or how my brain comprehended the lesson.
see page 576 of rave

A long quality breaker bar with a length of tube to extend it should give you enough leverage.

[benji]

Yeh, that's right Wayne, in a diff the planetary gears will carry the rotation the the side of the diff with the least torque load.
The borgwarners viscous coupling is supposed to make the front and rear output shafts rotate at the same speed, but it takes a little while to heat up the silicon jelly inside the viscous unit before it'll lock.

The rear output shaft extends through the centre of the diff, and into the viscous unit. Thus it's still a conventional differentail (50:50), with a limited slip viscous unit.

[mtb_gary]

A quick update...after finally undoing the large retaining nut (with a 1.6m extension on the 1/2" socket) there was good news and some not so good news. First the good news, it looks at this stage that the diff is fine. Bad news is that both the CVJ as well as the axle are stuffed. The axle looks like it snapped off at inside the CVJ after that there was no recovery. Now it's time to go sourcing replacement parts, Linrover look like they are getting a call tomorrow, they have a used axle shaft with CVJ for a bit over $100. All going well I may even be back on the road tomorrow :D.

Gary

66100

[RR P38]

There is a centre dif in the transfer box, the viscous is to the front of the dif. If there is no resistance from the front the dif wont transfer power to the rear and just turn the front, as open difs send power to the end of least resistance.
That is how Peter explained it or how my brain comprehended the lesson.
see page 576 of rave

A long quality breaker bar with a length of tube to extend it should give you enough leverage.

I must admit I had never considered a front end drive failure and its consequences for loss of drive......completely!
It would take a fair amount of stress/wear to destroy the front end....I should imagine, what where you doing when it let go?
No diff is as strong in reverse as it is in the usual direction....unless it is pegged.
25 years ago I had a 2a, being silly I used to try and get as far as I could in 2 wheel drive.......this would fairly regularly result in a broken rear axel, I always drove around as a front wheel drive for a while after this happened.
Seems we cant do that with the P38, or it may be OK if we have a rear drive failure.
I guess if we had to get out of trouble we could apply pressure to the front prop shaft with a rope/ratchet strap and trick the VC into sending the drive/some drive, to the rear axle?

[Keithy P38]

Didn't Lucky8 remove the front driveshaft and prove that the VC still sends drive to the rear? There was a YouTube vid of it I'm sure!

[RR P38]

If your VC is stuffed, wouldnt you be getting drive to both ends regardless of failure of either axle?
If your VC is functioning as normal, possibly you will loose drive in the event of an axle failure.

[wayneg]

Like me at first, you are missing the point that there is a central differential in the transfer box. The viscous coupling is to the front. If there is no resistance from the front the central diff will just keep sending all the drive to the front, as in any open diff. I would love to be proved wrong as this seems to be a bad revelation

[mtb_gary]

Didn't Lucky8 remove the front driveshaft and prove that the VC still sends drive to the rear? There was a YouTube vid of it I'm sure!


Keithy, there was a Lucky8 youtube vid for sure, running the Rangie in rear wheel drive only, but that was only after they had locked up the VC. The did look like they were having fun on the ice though :D

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Like me at first, you are missing the point that there is a central differential in the transfer box. The viscous coupling is to the front. If there is no resistance from the front the central diff will just keep sending all the drive to the front, as in any open diff. I would love to be proved wrong as this seems to be a bad revelation

We should find out tonight one way or another. I have just picked up the CVJ and shaft from Linnrover. Tonight all being well should see it fitted and tested. One part of me hopes it does not solve the problem as this is a rather disconcerting revelation should you happen to break an axle/CVJ out in the bush, but I am along Wayne's thought, the central VC diff is sending the power to the point of least resistance.....the broken axle. The other part of me hopes it will be fixed so that the job is completed.
I'll post the results as soon as I've got it fitted.

Gary

[wayneg]

Keithy, there was a Lucky8 youtube vid for sure, running the Rangie in rear wheel drive only, but that was only after they had locked up the VC. The did look like they were having fun on the ice though :D

Gary

I still cant see how the VC would change the outcome locked up or not. Its the centre diff that needs to be locked

[mtb_gary]

Wayne

Below is a copy and paste of the Luck8 project and the weld/lock of the VC. Not sure how practical this is in the bush should you break an axle or CVJ?

"project update

We have been racking our brains on how to lock the viscous coupling. There are a few ideas out there on how to make this possible but the expense is making it cost prohibitive. To make matters worse I don't know if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle being fully locked. But as the old saying goes when the going gets tough the tough get going. So we built a jig, welded the viscous coupling in the correct locked position and installed it in the transfer case.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/378.jpg

By doing this we will be able to find out if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle the load put on it when the transfercase is locked. If it doesn't explode we will continue to look for viable options to lock the T case. The best way to show that the transfer case is locked on a Borg-Warner box is to pull the front driveshaft and see if the truck will still move, and thats exactly what we did in this video.


P38 locked center diff test - YouTube


P38 locked center diff test - YouTube


Your first take on the video maybe just a yahoo having fun in the snow, but when you really look at it our P38 is spinning the rear tires while the front tires remain stationary. This means the transfercase is locked and all the power is going to the rear output shaft without causing an explosion. I'm pretty confident that the rear will hold up okay. We have been driving the truck around as a rearwheel drive unit for about a week without any side effects.
__________________
For expedition tested Rover gear Check out WWW.Lucky8LLc.com (http://www.lucky8llc.com/) 716-898-8153 "

[intheozone]

We should find out tonight one way or another. I have just picked up the CVJ and shaft from Linnrover. Tonight all being well should see it fitted and tested. One part of me hopes it does not solve the problem as this is a rather disconcerting revelation should you happen to break an axle/CVJ out in the bush, but I am along Wayne's thought, the central VC diff is sending the power to the point of least resistance.....the broken axle. The other part of me hopes it will be fixed so that the job is completed. I'll post the results as soon as I've got it fitted. Gary

Where are you doing the work? I would be keen to help/watch.

Steve

[wayneg]

Wayne

Below is a copy and paste of the Luck8 project and the weld/lock of the VC. Not sure how practical this is in the bush should you break an axle or CVJ?

"project update

We have been racking our brains on how to lock the viscous coupling. There are a few ideas out there on how to make this possible but the expense is making it cost prohibitive. To make matters worse I don't know if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle being fully locked. But as the old saying goes when the going gets tough the tough get going. So we built a jig, welded the viscous coupling in the correct locked position and installed it in the transfer case.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/378.jpg

By doing this we will be able to find out if the front output shaft is strong enough to handle the load put on it when the transfercase is locked. If it doesn't explode we will continue to look for viable options to lock the T case. The best way to show that the transfer case is locked on a Borg-Warner box is to pull the front driveshaft and see if the truck will still move, and thats exactly what we did in this video.


P38 locked center diff test - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmSs_4Y1gO4&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=2)


P38 locked center diff test - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmSs_4Y1gO4&list=UUUnCLXtAqip_9qd-T1NenbA&index=2)


Your first take on the video maybe just a yahoo having fun in the snow, but when you really look at it our P38 is spinning the rear tires while the front tires remain stationary. This means the transfercase is locked and all the power is going to the rear output shaft without causing an explosion. I'm pretty confident that the rear will hold up okay. We have been driving the truck around as a rearwheel drive unit for about a week without any side effects.
__________________
For expedition tested Rover gear Check out WWW.Lucky8LLc.com (http://www.lucky8llc.com/) 716-898-8153 "

Read the text of the videos, CENTRE DIFF LOCKED, the picture is the diff, ( I think) not the VC. the VC is not in the picture. The VC and Diff are separate components, I have changed a VC before, no chain involved, see the Pic of the VC, the big female spline goes over the splined shaft coming from the central Diff
heres the VC.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/377.jpg
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRYZxm0SJt0ZRE3V50NiFbkyvGNpS6yR onBNiT9aqukjvsoI74QUg
VC housing
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSDn32aFl4SzY2i0wA3kwdcVCKzDMgO0 aFifAFSd6h0fruOKkAzdQ
The VC bottom right of the picture

Oh and if you want to lock the VC, just fit one that has failed, when they fail they lock solid and thats when you are likely to blow a CVJ

On the locked diff he will surely get drive to front and back at all times. Not sure how long the drivetrain would last on tarmac though. What we want is a switchable locking centre diff

[mtb_gary]

Where are you doing the work? I would be keen to help/watch.

Steve

At home in the garage (Mullaloo). If all goes to plan it should only take an hour or so.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Read the text, CENTRE DIFF LOCKED, the picture is the diff, not the VC. the VC is not in the picture
heres one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/377.jpg

OK, thanks

Gary

[mtb_gary]

The car is back on the road :D.

My greatest concern now is what happens if I break a front CVJ or shaft if I am traveling solo :confused:

There are still a couple of errors on the dash, ABS (probably knocked the ABS wheel sensor when I was working on the hub). And an EAS sensor problem on the left rear that I acquired over the weekend.

For now though time for dinner and a well deserved drink or 2

:twobeers:

Gary

[wayneg]

Well done, the theory is correct sadly. The ABS has got to be the sensor.
At least it was relatively easily fixed and not to expensive. Seems to be CV season.
Is your car Thor or Gems? I would like to think the addition of front traction control would ease some of the forces with a spinning wheel suddenly grabbing.

[benji]

Great work getting it back on the road so quick!

It's the viscous couplings job to effectively lock the diff. It will heat up and lock the speeds of the front and rear output shafts of the transfer case, I.e. it will stop the diffing action of the diff.
Even though it's at the front of the transfer case its still splined directly onto the rear output shaft on it's inner spline, and it's outer spline forms part of the front output shaft.

When locked it can send 100 percent (or close enough) of the torque to either axle. They mostly fail locked up, but occasionally they will fail open. They don't need any resistance from an axle to lock, only a difference in rotational speeds which will heat up the silicon and lock the plates.

It would be interesting to see if you can jack up a front wheel, and with a brick in front of each rear wheel, drive forwards.
I've replaced three in the last few years and have noticed that just before they fail they get very weak, pretty much won't lock up, then within a few months they will lock solid.

[Pete38]

So the viscous coupling goes weak before locking.. Hmm. Could that be why it wasn't doing its job with the broken front CV?

I was really under impression that even with the front shaft disconnected, that the difference in speed between the front and rear would cause the vc to lock and drive the rear to match the speed of the front. And vice versa. Here I just wasn't sure about how much heat and damage that would do...

But could a limp home with either drive shaft removed mean no drive?

Good to hear it's back on the road so easily and cheaply though :-)

[mtb_gary]

Well done, the theory is correct sadly. The ABS has got to be the sensor.
At least it was relatively easily fixed and not to expensive. Seems to be CV season.
Is your car Thor or Gems? I would like to think the addition of front traction control would ease some of the forces with a spinning wheel suddenly grabbing.

Wayne, mine is a 1996 model with the GEMS

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Great work getting it back on the road so quick!

It's the viscous couplings job to effectively lock the diff. It will heat up and lock the speeds of the front and rear output shafts of the transfer case, I.e. it will stop the diffing action of the diff.
Even though it's at the front of the transfer case its still splined directly onto the rear output shaft on it's inner spline, and it's outer spline forms part of the front output shaft.

When locked it can send 100 percent (or close enough) of the torque to either axle. They mostly fail locked up, but occasionally they will fail open. They don't need any resistance from an axle to lock, only a difference in rotational speeds which will heat up the silicon and lock the plates.

It would be interesting to see if you can jack up a front wheel, and with a brick in front of each rear wheel, drive forwards.
I've replaced three in the last few years and have noticed that just before they fail they get very weak, pretty much won't lock up, then within a few months they will lock solid.

Benji

Not sure how I could (safely) jack up the front before trying to drive over blocks? I am thinking trolley jack with the tyre only just off the ground. You do have me concerned with the VC though!

Gary

[Pete38]

Benji

Not sure how I could (safely) jack up the front before trying to drive over blocks? I am thinking trolley jack with the tyre only just off the ground. You do have me concerned with the VC though!

Gary

I've seen people do it with a trolley jack on the axle or diff and Jack both wheels up while on nice flat concrete so it can roll... Only internet videos mind you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B0ANOI3GcM&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D9B0ANOI3GcM&app=desktop

[benji]

Sorry, didn't really expain that too well. In the past I've used a bottle jack under the axle and driven off it.

I had a scenario with my classic about six months before it locked whereby I was up a steep hill and the left front dropped into a hole and I just sat there spinning. Even after 15 or so seconds it wouldn't lock up - the back had plenty of grip on both wheels. After replacing the vc it locked up almost instantly.

I've also used the handbrake instead of the bricks in the past too. In lowrange it shouldn't have any problems driving past the handbrake.

[Hoges]

Before trying the more exotic tests which can be somewhat problematic:angel: PeterH recently had questions re. his VC which are explained here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/182177-sneaky-pulley-noise-grrrr-2.html (posts on page 2). I'd suggest FWIW testing the VC by conventional means first.... as per the referenced posts.
cheers

[mtb_gary]

Before trying the more exotic tests which can be somewhat problematic:angel: PeterH recently had questions re. his VC which are explained here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/182177-sneaky-pulley-noise-grrrr-2.html (posts on page 2). I'd suggest FWIW testing the VC by conventional means first.... as per the referenced posts.
cheers
Hoges

I've just tried the conventional means and the wheel & prop shaft turn freely, a little too freely as was the problem in the first place with no drive to the rear. I don't think the VC has seized, quite the opposite, it's just not locking up at all. Or something else has sheared along the driveline.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Sorry, didn't really expain that too well. In the past I've used a bottle jack under the axle and driven off it.

I had a scenario with my classic about six months before it locked whereby I was up a steep hill and the left front dropped into a hole and I just sat there spinning. Even after 15 or so seconds it wouldn't lock up - the back had plenty of grip on both wheels. After replacing the vc it locked up almost instantly.

I've also used the handbrake instead of the bricks in the past too. In lowrange it shouldn't have any problems driving past the handbrake.


Benji

I've just tried with a trolley jack, jacked up the front right wheel so that it cleared the ground, wheels lined up straight on the jack, blocks in front of both back wheels. The front wheel when I put the car in drive spun freely, I could not climb over a 45mm high block of wood with the 265/75's :o. It's time to start work on the transfer box/VC to see what else is broken. :mad:

Gary

[benji]

When you jacked up thefront wheel and turned it by hand, was the here any resistance to it, it did it just free wheel. I assume the handbrake was on and it was in park when you turned it by hand?
If there was no resistance at all, then it's failed open or you've busted the rear output shaft forward of where it's splined onto the rear sun gear (personally I doubt that though).

If there was some uniform resistance it sounds like the vc.

[mtb_gary]

When you jacked up thefront wheel and turned it by hand, was the here any resistance to it, it did it just free wheel. I assume the handbrake was on and it was in park when you turned it by hand?
If there was no resistance at all, then it's failed open or you've busted the rear output shaft forward of where it's splined onto the rear sun gear (personally I doubt that though).

If there was some uniform resistance it sounds like the vc.

Benji

When turning the wheel by hand it was in neutral, handbrake on, it turned smoothly with little resistance. If I put it in park the wheel will not turn.

Gary

[Hoges]

This URL The Viscous Coupling (http://www.syncro.org/VCTest.html) is very informative... applies to VW Syncros but the same principles apply.

cheers

EDIT Hi Gary if it is the VC then you might find http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/94290-viscous-coupling-vicious-price.html of use ...read the various posts : includes info where purchased, as well as tool needed etc. I refilled the TF case with Mobil Agrifluid.. excellent stuff for the purpose.

[mtb_gary]

This URL The Viscous Coupling (http://www.syncro.org/VCTest.html) is very informative... applies to VW Syncros but the same principles apply.

cheers

EDIT Hi Gary if it is the VC then you might find http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/94290-viscous-coupling-vicious-price.html of use ...read the various posts : includes info where purchased, as well as tool needed etc. I refilled the TF case with Mobil Agrifluid.. excellent stuff for the purpose.

Hoges, thanks for the link. I love your write up, hopefully still married and no more black stuff walked through the house :D. I am 99% convinced I have an open VC, whilst better than a locked VC it's still not good! I did a bit of searching on line and found Ashcroft can also have one delivered to Perth for around $600. The Rangie is starting to remind be of a BOAT. Break Out Another Thousand.

It looks like the Ashcroft ATB's are on hold for a while :(

Gary

[mtb_gary]

So the car is back on the road and cleaned up after the W4 Challenge. In the end it turns out to take quite a bit to stop the p38, and was a culmination of several failures that dit it.

Front left CV Joint
Front left drive shaft

Viscous Coupling that had split, when they split and lose the silicone on the inside drive is only available in the front wheels.

How much??

CV Joint and shaft 2nd hand from LinnRover
Viscous Coupling new inc freight from Ashcroft
Tray truck towing from event to home
4 litres ATF Dex 111

TOTAL DAMAGE around $1200 :(

Will I be back for the W4 Challenge next year..........absolutely :D:D:D

[Pete38]

Wow did a good effort. But really not as pricey as I thought those bits would be.

[mtb_gary]

The CV joint and drive shaft I was able to pick up 2nd hand for $115, it sure helped!

Gary