Tranferbox control lever

[walahbro]

Hi I have just bought myself an ex-military 1988 county,
I feel stupid asking these questions but please explain to me what these levers do?
Please see attached pictures.

Tranferbox control lever only pulls out about half a centimeter. Is this a vacuum cdl? If it is what does it do?

The lever in front on the drivers seat next to the hand brake-what does this do?
Does it have something to do with the winch?
Which leads me to my next question, how do i operate the mechanical winch?

Thanks in advance and excuse my ignorance....

Andrew

[rangieman]

The one that pulls out is your CDL Locks the T/C INTO 4WD The hi/low next to the hand brake (up and down movement) lever selects low range for climbing hills or real slow work then shift back to high for on road , PS Never use the CDL ON Bitumen only momentry for traction if needed not for extended periods on road, Or you will damage your drivline = Big $$$$$

[rangieman]

Double post sorry

[walahbro]

Thanks rangieman, when i do pull the cdl knob should i get a light on the dash at all?
How do i know that it is working?

Also the lever i was refering to "next to the hand break" in the picture, wasnt the hi/low selector I was refering to the T-Knob if u look closely in the picture its just above the hand break...

[rangieman]

Thanks rangieman, when i do pull the cdl knob should i get a light on the dash at all?
How do i know that it is working?

Also the lever i was refering to "next to the hand break" in the picture, wasnt the hi/low selector I was refering to the T-Knob if u look closely in the picture its just above the hand break...

Yes you should get the x axle light on the dash when cdl is engaged, Has your truck got a winch as that handle might be for the PTO that engages your winch;)

[Bearman]

Yep, that T knob is for the winch PTO engagement. In is disengaged out is engaged. There should be a decal on your fuse box cover (in front of the gear lever) that gives you instructions on how to use the winch.

[Bearman]

The one that pulls out is your CDL Locks the T/C INTO 4WD The hi/low next to the hand brake (up and down movement) lever selects low range for climbing hills or real slow work then shift back to high for on road , PS Never use the CDL ON Bitumen only momentry for traction if needed not for extended periods on road, Or you will damage your drivline = Big $$$$$

The perenties don't have this lever next to the handbrake, it is on the transmission tunnel. The one he is talking about is the winch pto engaging T knob.

[rangieman]

The perenties don't have this lever next to the handbrake, it is on the transmission tunnel. The one he is talking about is the winch pto engaging T knob.

Mmmm post 5;)

[walahbro]

Yes, it is for the winch, thanks lads, and yes i do have the decal (sort of) explaining how to use the winch.

If the light doesnt come on, does it mean the vacuum switch isnt working correctly? Could it mean there is something more seriously wrong with the drive train? Car drives fine otherwise....

Thanks for your help with this guys....

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Just to clarify, "County" is the trim level of some 110 and 109 models(previously called Deluxe trim), and the Army versions had the poverty pack trim so we just call them by the name of the original Army selection trials "Project Perentie". Usually shortened to "Perentie".

If you call your vehicle a "Perentie" or "110 Perentie", everyone will know which model you are talking about and the multiple differences they have between them and the civilian models.

[Bearman]

Yes, it is for the winch, thanks lads, and yes i do have the decal (sort of) explaining how to use the winch.

If the light doesnt come on, does it mean the vacuum switch isnt working correctly? Could it mean there is something more seriously wrong with the drive train? Car drives fine otherwise....

Thanks for your help with this guys....

It could be one of several things, the bulb may be blown on the dash panel, the light switch on the vacuum actuator may be u/s or not getting power from the ignition or the vacuum actuator or dash switch may be faulty - the actuator has an internal rubber diaphragm which eventually perishes especially if not being used much. Use a multimeter to check the bulb,wiring and switch. If all is good there, jack one front wheel off the ground ( after chocking the rear wheels) lock the centre diff (cross country position) with the vacuum switch on the dash (engine must be running) and then see if you can turn the front wheel which is off the ground. If it turns a small amount and then stops the lock is working ok, if it keeps turning and you can see the front driveshaft rotating there is something wrong with the locking mechanism - either dash switch or actuator. If it turns out to be the actuator on the transfer case it is a bit of a bugger to change. If you have average mechanical skills you can do it. Get back on here or PM me if it is and I can post up directions and a photo ,or two on how to do it.

[Bearman]

[QUOTE=walahbro;1996938]Yes, it is for the winch, thanks lads, and yes i do have the decal (sort of) explaining how to use the winch.


Wherever possible always have 2 people when operating the winch, 1 in the drivers seat and the other outside operating /watching the winch. The vertical lever on the drivers side of the winch is a dog clutch setup. upright is disengaged and angled is engaged (it should have a sticker on it saying in/out). Disengage it to pull the cable out and then engage it after you have secured the end (you may have to turn the spool a little to line the dog clutch up). The bloke inside then engages the PTO and slowly lets the clutch out, winch will now operate, engine must be running. You can operate it in any gear including reverse and transfer case in neutral or engaged. I would recommend you use it in 1st gear/neutral transfer until you get familiar with it. The bloke outside can keep an eye on the rope layering on the drum (standing back from the line of pull and let the driver know when to stop winching.) Always drape a potato bag or heavy cloth on the cable near the end to stop the cable flying if it snaps. Make sure you stop winching before the end of the cable with the clip reaches the rollers. Disengage the pto and the dog clutch and turn the spool by hand to retrieve the last bit of cable. When you have mastered it you can try doing it by yourself. In really heavy winching you can engage low range plus low gear and winch at the same time - makes it easier with the wheels turning. The Isuzu will do all this at idle. They are a great winch setup. It also has a clutch setup in the PTO drive that will slip if the winch is overloaded.

[mark2]

The one that pulls out is your CDL Locks the T/C INTO 4WD The hi/low next to the hand brake (up and down movement) lever selects low range for climbing hills or real slow work then shift back to high for on road , PS Never use the CDL ON Bitumen only momentry for traction if needed not for extended periods on road, Or you will damage your drivline = Big $$$$$

This is all true, but the other side of the coin is that the CDL should be engaged before wheel spin occurs or the thrust washers in the center diff can/will be damaged. For example, dont get stuck with the CDL disengaged and sit there with a wheel spinning. I once had two attempts at a slippery hill after forgetting to engage the CDL and basically destroyed the center diff.
Think of it this way, if the terrain is such that 4WD is needed, the CDL should be engaged. A 110 (assuming no cross axle diff locks) is only a 1 wheel drive without the CDL engaged. If you jack up one wheel only, and attempt to drive off, it will not move. Continue trying and the center diff thrust washers will burn out shortly after.

[isuzutoo-eh]

You could always engage the CDL/cross country switch and drive it a few metres, it should engage in that time but doesn't always lock straight away with a stationary vehicle.