96 Defender iceberg a/c fit problem

[Craigb]

I have recently purchased a 1996 110 wagon with underdash a/c with iceberg written on it. The problem is that you can't open the passenger side window winder due to it hitting the unit and most importantly making it even more difficult to convince the wife that the Defender is a good thing! I thought I might be able to crib a bit and fit the unit a little further to the right, but it looks pretty tight in the footwell. I was going to attempt to cut a slice out of the unit and move the edge across and rebond, but I thought I would check to see if anyone has solved this problem.

The cars first owner was dept defence, but is white car and has PTO winch. Paperwork seems to suggest the a/c was fitted later, but amazing anyone would accept it that way

Any help appreciated.

[87County]

Sounds like a real "mis-fit" - a pic would be interesting. Before you slice it it would be good to check what is under the cover where you are about to slice ......

The 110s are notoriously difficult to aircondition properly, not the least factor being the lack of sealing. And any system that has its recirculating air intake near the floor will end up full of debris.

The factory underdash sytem fitted to Australian defers can be a bit ineffective and is no longer made although there is an underdash sytem now available from UK.

Aftermarket underdash systems are generally too large to locate underdash as you have discovered.

Some users have opted for locating an after market underdash evaporator (like yours) under the back seat, others have installed red dot truck systems with the evaporator on the ceiling or on the cargo barrier. Plenty of info on this site if you search.

I would remove any system that interferes with leg room or ergonomics (as you have described yours) - just not worth having it.

If you later fit one of the purpose made aircons (Aus defer or the new UK one) or go for relocating the evap you have you can replumb your existing condensor and compressor to the new one.

[frantic]

I don't know how many noticed but the ex army hardtop display wagon at the LR expo had an air con unit fitted to the roof where the cargo barrier would fit in a normal 4door wagon 110. The only problem appeared to be the controls where mounted with the unit which is fine when the officer in the front orders the soldier in the back to turn it on, not so good for little munchkins who find buttons and knobs irresistible :D.

[Craigb]

Thanks for the fast response. I asked the seller about the a/c and he said 'it works, but not great, probably needs a regass' - which from what you say maybe it never was that great. I am not too worried, if it takes the edge off that will be fine.

I didn't say that i also have a '92 defender 110 purchased just before this one which has a similar looking underdash unit but with defender on it, so i am guessing that might be the factory underdash you refer to. It would be possible for me to swap these. Normal story though, travelled great distance to get this '92, which I knew had rust (which i am used to restoring cars and will weld up and reskin doors etc) and then only weeks later a car pops up on gumtree only minutes from home, very little rust, diff lockers etc. Time was getting close for when i needed a 4WD so i grabbed it and will still repair the 92 and put it back on the market as a rust free, dent free resprayed defender (from what i have looked at there should be a market for one of those!)

So I have added a photo of the unit overall (please excuse the mess but addressing rust and adding a cruise control unit to the car this weekend). Also a close up of the control and brand and the space issues.

I have checked the slicing area and it appears to just be a cavity between the speaker hole and the side closest the door. I am tempted to leave it all in place and just try that slice, but if anyone recognises this iceberg unit as being a 'dog' and best replaced, then please let me know, but it does look like a copy of the factory one, just a little miscalculated in width!

I

[PhilipA]

Why not look outside the square and fit a power window to that side.

Would be a hell of a lot less trouble,please the wife, and probably cost less! .
Regards Philip A

[redrovertdi]

OR get rid of the wife and just enjoy the car:D

[redrovertdi]

my standard air con also fowls the hand on the window winder, most passengers learn fast and wind up or down when the door is open otherwise you have to grip the winder with your finger tips, you learn to live with it as it adds to the character[of which there is lots]

[Craigb]

Thanks for the replies. Yes it is tight on the '92 car and hand does hit but on the '96 it actually hits it and can only open window with door open or a major forced sqeeze between door panel and unit. But that does make me think maybe i am better to try and get a good solution on the '96 but cutting, as opposed to swapping and still only having an average sort of solution.

[redrovertdi]

you could always shorten the window winder handle or fit a smaller knob

[JAG811]

2 x Electric windows.

I jumped out of a tricked up JK Wrangler thinking I wanted to go back to powerless windows - And I'm really happy with it ....
Until I want to wind down the passenger window while driving or the little lady in the back says "Daddy, please put my window down".

Even if it's just the front for now, and do the rear later ??

Another thought might be heating up the plastic just enought to push it out of shape so it no longer fouls ... IF you can get to the back of it, I wouldn't heat up the front .... :eek:

[Craigb]

Fantastic! I do like the idea of perhaps being able to heat and soften and push a dent into it that allows the winder to go around - thats the beauty of these forums - access to lateral thinkers! On the electric thing, is it just a matter of finding units out of a late model car? Wiring doesn't bother me but adapting a unit so it works consistently and strongly does - so would rather retro fit something from a late car.

[Craigb]

Well inbetween preparing the evening meal and waiting for it to cook, for me i found the definitive answer to this problem! I should have taken a before shot but you can probably work it out from the earlier photos. I got my heat gun, with a restricting attachment on it and gently heated a small area where it was hitting for 10 or so seconds and then pressed on it with the rounded handle of a large scewdriver and hey presto you get the first photo. Then i repeated it a couple of times and problem is solved. Through the speaker hole i can feel all it has done is dented the plastic, and i think i could even push it back again if i went too far. I was conscious of restricting the area of heat so that it would retain overall structure and just dent where i wanted. It is not perfect and i could reheat and mess with it but I really couldn't be bothered from how it is now. I am also putting in a speaker upgrade and with a little work these will fit flush and not need that big spacer, so the gap you see behind the spacer will dissapear because the speaker grille itself is just that much smaller.

Just need to work out how to get that standard stereo unit out - looks like sliding something thin down the sides of the unit.

[JAG811]

Nice work !!
Reshape later :cool: