New Series 1 project

[ashhhhh]

Hey all,

I've had my series 3 for a while now, and had a hankering for a new project.

I found what was advertised as a '54 model, semi locally.
I got it for a very decent price, there seems to be no rust and came with a winch, PTO and plenty of spares. (Spare engine included)
It's a petrol motor, 2L I assume.

I won't be home again until Sunday, will take some better pictures then.
Can anyone confirm the year?

Looking forward to making a start!

Ash.

[Designosaur]

WOOT! looks cool.

B

[outback jeff]

Nice, looks pretty straight and unmolested.

Cheers Jeff

[ashhhhh]

Yeah it's not bad! The tub is pretty beat up, there will be a bit of work in that alone.

I'll likely be chasing spares in the near future, anyone in Armidale? ;p

[ashhhhh]

I took delivery this morning and snapped some better photos for you.

I'll start removing bodywork shortly and get a good look at the chassis.
There is no rust that I can see, looks great underneath actually.

It has the tare weight stenciled on the side, were they all like this or could it give some clue as to it's history?

Where are the chassis and engine numbers located?
I've read conflicting info and couldn't find them under the filth today.

Looking forward to starting on this!

Ash.

[ashhhhh]

..........

[mick88]

Nice looking project!

Cheers, Mick

[harry]

it was mandatory for commercial vehicles to have the tare weight visible so the transport coppers could book you for overloading, so it must have been registered as a commercial vehicle at some time, and that was probably a farm vehicle as the farmers wanted all the tax advantages that came with being a primary producer.

[ashhhhh]

Ah I see, interesting.
Still can't find the numbers on it, any thoughts?
Checked all spring hangers and can't pick it.

[ashhhhh]

So none of you gurus can tell me where the numbers are?
I can only assume they can't be seen with the body on, because I've looked everywhere.. :what:

I spent some time today taking the rear tub off, after I bought an engine crane and got the spare motor out of it!

Very happy with the chassis, no rust to be seen.

Also confirmed the engine turns over, I'll give her an oil change and a good once over before trying to start it.

[Defender Mike]

Should be on the plate centre of the bulkhead(firewall) inside the cab. If that's missing then see the right hand front spring shackle bracket. Nice truck love the colour LOL. It's a 107 if its a 54 and has the early horn button on the centre hub ( don't Break it ). It should do up pretty well and end up looking like mine. Are you going to do a full restoration or get her mechanicaly A1 and leave the original patina. I will post a pick from the Workshop manual about the numbers.
Mike:)

[Defender Mike]

2 pics from introduction page of the workshop manual and the third is the chassis engine etc numbers for 1954 models from the front of the w/shop manual. You may have to save them and then enlarge them. You will need to get this book and also the parts book. I downloaded the parts book online and you can also get it from good book stores that specialise in car manuals. I have a genuine W/shop manual part number 4291 printed in 1960. You can get these on Ebay now and then. This will save you many hours work and much frustration some of which you may already be encountering LOL.
Mike:)


66704

66705

66706

[ashhhhh]

Legend, thanks Mike.
Some frustration, but mainly confusion.. Lol

The number on the plate inside the cab is 277600844.
I ignored this initially as CalVIN identified it as a 2A... now I found a website that says this is a correct series 1 number.
Can anyone confirm the year for me?

I'm not really into full "nuts and bolts" resto's and will be keeping as much of the patina as possible - including the old pocket watch attached to the dash. :)

I'll get it back to chassis and running gear and get that sorted first, then build her back up from there.

[Defender Mike]

I like the look of the history they carry with a few scars just like their owners LOL. Your number is a bit of worry in 1954 ( first year of the 107) the chassis numbers started at 47200001 and ended at 47730001. in 1955 they went from 57200001............. aahaaaaaahhhaaa in 1955 they threw in a few 277's here it is 274600001 to 277600001. So its a 55 107 CKD R.H.D.
I will add a pic of the 1955 numbers from the manual. Check out my old girl in "Another Series1" I have fitted long range tanks and a few other bits are on there way this week including a new rear frame and canvas canopy ,the Fairey overdrive and maybe even a capstan winch and almost forgot parabolic springs and air bags.:)

[Landy Smurf]

looks like a good project

[ashhhhh]

'55, thanks mate!

Yeah I was reading through your thread the other day, I hope I can do a trip like that at some stage.
Nice truck too. :)

I've got an extra long weekend, so will start removing the rest of the panels today - pics this arvo.

[ashhhhh]

I got quite a bit done today, took all the front panels off, removed the fuel tank, de-crapped the inside of the cab and found the hiding numbers.

Still no nasty rust surprises which is nice.
The fuel tank appears to be in excellent condition.
Love the internal light made from a can. :D

The engine will need new Welch plugs, one is completely gone.

Are these hard to do?
What is the best way to clean the inside of the water jacket?

[russellrovers]

I got quite a bit done today, took all the front panels off, removed the fuel tank, de-crapped the inside of the cab and found the hiding numbers.

Still no nasty rust surprises which is nice.
The fuel tank appears to be in excellent condition.
Love the internal light made from a can. :D

The engine will need new Welch plugs, one is completely gone.

Are these hard to do?
What is the best way to clean the inside of the water jacket?
hi you need ally thredded 1inch plugs you can get from cox turner uk or go to the local plumbing shop and get 1 inch stop ends steel give the threads a good clean out good luck jim

[Defender Mike]

That engine number is a 1955 but should have ended up in a export LHD if you look to the workshop manual. Mine is a 58 but has a 56 gearbox and 57 engine. Hows the bulkhead behind the the double panels behind the fuel pump and oppisite and under the screen rubber. If you need rubbers theyt are available from the UK and i want some as well.:)
Mike

[wrinklearthur]

----- Hows the bulkhead behind the the double panels behind the fuel pump and opposite and under the screen rubber. If you need rubbers they are available from the UK and i want some as well.
Mike

Hi Mike and Ash

I will be needing for HECter ( '55 SWB ) a left and right panel for the firewall, the top of the foot well where it meets the vertical panel, I will in the meantime investigate a couple of sheet metal shops here in Tassie for folding up panels and those foot wells sections.

The rubbers for; above and below the windscreen .
Could you let us know if you find a place to obtain these at a reasonable price?

Interesting point here, look at the wear on the clutch pedal and the lack of wear on the brake pedal, it may have been built up with weld sometime in the past, but it does look original.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/66739d1381225327-new-series-1-project-uploadfromtaptalk1381225325895.jpg
.

[chazza]

The engine will need new Welch plugs, one is completely gone.
Are these hard to do?
What is the best way to clean the inside of the water jacket?

This is a bit like the bit-of-string question and the answer depends upon how bad the inside is.

The threaded core plugs Jim mentioned, are partially under the exhaust manifold and can be rather tedious to install, because if they are corroded, bits of aluminium and rust will be stuck in the threads. I used a thread-file to clean the female threads and it took several hours to get them feeling nice. The core plugs I ordered from Dunsfold and when I could screw them in about 3/4 of the way I deemed the female thread ready. They need a slot cut in the top of them so that a screwdriver can be used and the thread needs coating with a sealant. Finally they stick up proud of the surface and need to be filed flat - I used a dreadnought file.

The other core plugs are knock-in types and they also need sealant on them.

As for the crap inside, mine was absolutely atrocious and I spent a day and one-half with a stripped block on the floor, chipping out rust and lumps and this was after it had been in the caustic bath at the engine re-conditioners!
I am going to use a filter in the cooling system, because there must still be nasty bits left inside it somewhere. RMI25 is a very good cooling system additive, which dissolves most of the rubbish over time and can be flushed out of the system easily,

Cheers Charlie

[ashhhhh]

Interesting about the engine, I got the number of my spare this morning too - post a picture shortly.

I havent found anything nasty in the bulkhead yet, but there are still some parts I cant see.
How hard is it to remove the bulkhead completely? Do any really major assemblies need to come out? (steering shaft etc)

Removing and refitting the wiring is the part I dread!

Interesting point on the brake Arthur, I guess they were slow enough anyway. :D

[ashhhhh]

This is a bit like the bit-of-string question and the answer depends upon how bad the inside is.

The threaded core plugs Jim mentioned, are partially under the exhaust manifold and can be rather tedious to install, because if they are corroded, bits of aluminium and rust will be stuck in the threads. I used a thread-file to clean the female threads and it took several hours to get them feeling nice. The core plugs I ordered from Dunsfold and when I could screw them in about 3/4 of the way I deemed the female thread ready. They need a slot cut in the top of them so that a screwdriver can be used and the thread needs coating with a sealant. Finally they stick up proud of the surface and need to be filed flat - I used a dreadnought file.

The other core plugs are knock-in types and they also need sealant on them.

As for the crap inside, mine was absolutely atrocious and I spent a day and one-half with a stripped block on the floor, chipping out rust and lumps and this was after it had been in the caustic bath at the engine re-conditioners!
I am going to use a filter in the cooling system, because there must still be nasty bits left inside it somewhere. RMI25 is a very good cooling system additive, which dissolves most of the rubbish over time and can be flushed out of the system easily,

Cheers Charlie
Thanks Charlie, appreciated.
Yes I was wondering about cleaning the thread, because its exactly as you say - bits of alloy stuck everywhere.
I was planning to fill the jacket with Phosphoric or Oxalic acid to deal with the rust, thoughts?

[ashhhhh]

Spare engine.

[Defender Mike]

Interesting about the engine, I got the number of my spare this morning too - post a picture shortly.

I havent found anything nasty in the bulkhead yet, but there are still some parts I cant see.
How hard is it to remove the bulkhead completely? Do any really major assemblies need to come out? (steering shaft etc)

Removing and refitting the wiring is the part I dread!

Interesting point on the brake Arthur, I guess they were slow enough anyway. :D

Just bolts the 2 one each 9/16 i think side botom of A pillar through bulkhead and chassis. But there is a lot of stuff to take off first. Dont worry about the wiring it will be stuffed anyway.You can get a complete new harness with everything labeled for a reasonale price. The steering colum has to come out so get a manual and read it so you dont break that horn and Wheel centre.:)
Mike

[Defender Mike]

Spare engine.

170600

The fourth number must be a 6. This is from a 56 export RHD . Have you found a plate from Pressed metal Corp above the Chassis number plaque.
See the pic attached should look like this.

[ashhhhh]

No plaque like that, nor any holes for one.
What does it represent?

[shaunh]

Just bolts the 2 one each 9/16 i think side botom of A pillar through bulkhead and chassis. But there is a lot of stuff to take off first. Dont worry about the wiring it will be stuffed anyway.You can get a complete new harness with everything labeled for a reasonale price. The steering colum has to come out so get a manual and read it so you dont break that horn and Wheel centre.:)
Mike

where do you get these from?

sorry for the hijack looks much the same as my 86" when i started mate long way to go yet but there is a light at the end!

[andy_d110]

where do you get these from?

sorry for the hijack looks much the same as my 86" when i started mate long way to go yet but there is a light at the end!



Series 1, Autosparks, World leading supplier of classic car wiring looms (http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=59_62)

[chazza]

I was planning to fill the jacket with Phosphoric or Oxalic acid to deal with the rust, thoughts?

Ah yes! Thank you for reminding me!

If I ever do this again I will seal the cooling system with temporary plates and fill the water jacket with molasses solution; 1 part molasses with 10 water. Ideally this works best with warm water, it will work just as well with cold, but it will take longer. The residue could be blasted out with a water jet,

Cheers Charlie

[ashhhhh]

Excellent.
I have used the same method in stationary engines and it works great.

I think I have found my first bit of bulkhead rust, just below the screen in the top section.
This appears to be very common as repair sections are available.

Has anyone used this guy before?
Land Rover Series ONE Bulkhead Firewall TOP Repair Section in Hunter, NSW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-ONE-BULKHEAD-FIREWALL-TOP-REPAIR-SECTION-/190802285127)

The price seems steep..but the section does look good.

[ashhhhh]

I got the floor panels and seat box out this arvo.
I found a secret stash of new parts in one compartment, nice!

[Landy Smurf]

nice.
I am sure you probably have already said but I forgot.
Are you going to restore it or rebuild it?
what colour are you going to paint it or are you going to leave it the way it is?

[ashhhhh]

I'll keep it as original as possible, paint anything steel, replace anything buggered, clean and polish whatever is left. :)

[wrinklearthur]

In that photo, under the spare parts is a original Series one wheel brace. :o

And the lack of paint missing in the tool locker again tells me your Landy hasn't done any work to speak of, what's the mileage on the speedo?
.

[ashhhhh]

Ah right, there is not just one, but two braces! :thumbup:

The odo says 57938.

[magilla]

Has anyone used this guy before?
Land Rover Series ONE Bulkhead Firewall TOP Repair Section in Hunter, NSW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-ONE-BULKHEAD-FIREWALL-TOP-REPAIR-SECTION-/190802285127)

The price seems steep..but the section does look good.

Yep, Ive recently fitted mine, was a pretty good fit and the delivery time was quick. Got mine delivered to Southern Vic included in the purchase price

[wrinklearthur]

Ah right, there is not just one, but two braces! :thumbup:

The odo says 57938.

That reading does look about right for the lack of wear and tear.

Go around and replace all the rubbers, I would be replacing things like the seals, spring bushes, wheel bearing seals, brake rubbers and the bullet connectors for the wiring.
Fresh oil and a polish, then you will have a pretty smart machine.

How are the seat cushions ?
.

[ashhhhh]

There will be a little more in it than that, but its fairly tidy compared to others ive seen. :)

The rear tub has a fair bit of damage inside, very dinted and collapsed - that will be the worst part of the body to deal with.
I think it has carried heavy loads.
This is backed up by the rear springs, which are as flat as a tack.
Are these available as a new product? RM Parabolics may fit?

Mechanically it remains to be seen.
The front prop shaft is out of the vehicle, hopefully it doesn't mean diff/axle/gearbox issues.

I have about 6 different prop shafts, all of which are fairly rusty looking.
Can the sliding joint be overhauled?

The seats are all non-existant really.
The bases and backs are all there though and in great nick, so I will get them redone.

[wrinklearthur]

The rear tub has a fair bit of damage inside, very dinted and collapsed - that will be the worst part of the body to deal with.
I think it has carried heavy loads.
This is backed up by the rear springs, which are as flat as a tack.
Are these available as a new product? RM Parabolics may fit?

Send RZR a PM and mention my name, he has a rear tub that might suit you.


Mechanically it remains to be seen.
The front prop shaft is out of the vehicle, hopefully it doesn't mean diff/axle/gearbox issues.
Lock the pinion shaft flange by bolting something across it and then jack up, turn one front wheel. There should be ( allowing for backlash in the diff ), only about 6° to 8° turn in the wheels rotation. Any more movement than that would need checking out.
Send me a PM if you feel you need some freewheeling hubs for it, I might be interested in a swap for something.


I have about 6 different prop shafts, all of which are fairly rusty looking.
Can the sliding joint be overhauled?
There are replacement sliding joint sets available, although I'm not sure if they can be obtained with a yoke for the slightly smaller universal joint as found on a series one.


The seats are all non-existent really.
The bases and backs are all there though and in great nick, so I will get them redone.
Recover kits are available from the UK in the original vinyl.
.

[ashhhhh]

I had a pretty good run today and got all the bodywork off. Glad to have it done, I can start some fun stuff now, instead of battling with nuts and bolts!

I am really happy with it, the chassis is flawless really, despite being filled with dirt.

I will take the bulkhead to be blasted next week. I'll likely replace or patch the top rail, the rest of it looks fine.

I have found that there is a spring works only 1hr drive away, I'll get the existing ones re-tempered and set.

The engine water jacket definitely needs to be etched out and have all plugs replaced.
There was a tap on the oil filter side which just fell off in my hand, the alloy thread is completely rotten.
Can anyone confirm the thread size for it, and also size of the plug which is partially under the manifold?

Anyway here's some , I'll post again tomorrow once it's degreased. :)

Ash

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/933.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/934.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/935.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/936.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/937.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/250.jpg

[LoveB]

that looks pretty good and straight... I'm sure you'll enjoy the journey. :)

and lucky on getting one without rust!

[123rover50]

Good project.
Its got the factory bolt holes in the front crossmember for a Capstan winch too.
Keith

[chazza]

Nice car Ash!

I don't know what the tap is for but it could be replaced with a threaded plug.

The best way to confirm thread sizes on a S1 is to acquire the following tools: a set of thread gauges in the 55 degree Whitworth thread form, which measure the thread pitch; a vernier caliper, or micrometer, for measuring outside diameters; a thread chart which lists the diameter, thread pitch; teeth per inch; and tapping drill sizes.

Using this information you can quickly work out if the thread is a standard one, or a non-standard. Most of the threads on the S1 are B.S.F; some are B.S.W. and I believe the threads for the core plugs are B.S. Conduit, which is rather obsolete.

You will also need a thread file to clean the threads in your block, which is a laborious way to do it, but achievable. And if you really get into it, buy a BSF tap and die set with sizes from 1/4" up to 1/2", which will cover just about every fastener on the car except the wheel studs which are 9/16".

For S2 and S3 you will need Unified and metric thread gauges as well as the tools listed above,

Cheers Charlie

[ashhhhh]

Thanks Charlie, I took your advice and scored some Whitworth gauges yesterday, as well as the illusive 1" BSCon tap!

Over the weekend I started the job we all love, degreasing..
I also got any cooling related ancillaries, and the manifolds removed from the engine.

I can tell that corrosion will be the major annoyance of this engine.
The thermostat housing looks fine, water pump OK (needs rebuild though), the worst I came across was the inlet manifold.

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue?
I was thinking either fill with Devcon or TIG it up and grind.

[chazza]

...the worst I came across was the inlet manifold.

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue?
I was thinking either fill with Devcon or TIG it up and grind.

My manifold is the twin brother of yours including the corrosion!

I took mine to the engine re-conditioners and blasted it in his cabinet, which revealed a very thin base and two holes on the water-branch. I think the only solution for me, will be to cut out a large hole in the base and weld in a new plug,

Cheers Charlie

[Bundy]

Hey I love the pieces of wood to hold the floor up just in front of the brake reservoir and its matching longer one on the passenger side. What a great modification! On my 86 those brackets that hold the floor up at this point are crushed down and I have been wondering how to fix them. Thanks for the great pics.

[Defender Mike]

I think you can come over and help me with my 56 project that has stalled a bit since i got the 109. you certainly get things done in a hurry.
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

Hey I love the pieces of wood to hold the floor up just in front of the brake reservoir and its matching longer one on the passenger side. What a great modification! On my 86 those brackets that hold the floor up at this point are crushed down and I have been wondering how to fix them. Thanks for the great pics.

Haha... Definitely a bushy fix. :)

Yeah Mike I've been keen lately, I figure if I clog my shed with a million body parts then I HAVE to finish it... Lol
The prize arrived today... hope it's right. :sly:

[ashhhhh]

So yes, the tap worked a charm.
The thread isn't perfect as some of it has rusted away, but it should be adequate.

I also had another win with the manifold off the spare engine - it's basically corrosion free!

[ashhhhh]

I filled the water jacket with the acid today and it's currently pickling.

While I wait for that, and all my plugs, gaskets and other parts, I thought I'd tidy up some bodywork.

As mentioned, I'll be leaving its original patina. I'm happy with the result and reckon it'll look prey cool.

[ashhhhh]

My Dunsfold order arrived today, wow this old stock is great. Almost too good to unwrap!

[ashhhhh]

I drained the acid out this afternoon, and punched the Welch plugs... wow.. it was packed with sludge.
I would say at least half it's volume was rust and mud. ???

The acid did a good job though, after a blast with some water it is 100% better.
I'll probably repeat the process and call it good.
The head is difficult to fill while fitted to the motor, I think I'll rebuild the one off my spare engine and swap them if there are any problems.

I'm after opinions on the radiator, is it worth trying to clean them at home (same acid soak) or should I just get a pro to deal with it?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/343.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/344.jpg

[justincase42]

(I'm after opinions on the radiator, is it worth trying to clean them at home (same acid soak) or should I just get a pro to deal with it)

I would get a radiator shop to do it. They will be able to unsolder the top and bottom tanks, rod all the cores, soldier any damaged or leaking cores then re solder the tanks and finish it off with a coat of paint.

[Landy Smurf]

I personally would get someone else to do them but they might cost a few bob

[grey_ghost]

Hi,

When I restored my 61 Series 2 - I took my radiator to a local guy, he tested it and it needed a re-core. By the time that he unsolder'd the top and bottom tanks, replaced the core, re-solder the tanks and finish it off with a coat of paint - it cost me $500.

Yes it was a lot of money, and I had considered just buying a new radiator but I had read about poor quality radiators and wanted to keep it original.

When restoring my 60 Series 2 - I took the radiator to the same guy. This time all it needed was testing, a flush and a coat of paint - it cost me $100

I would like to think that both radiators will last another 50 years now - and outlive me.

I think that it's worth it for peace of mind, but that's just my opinion.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi,

When I restored my 61 Series 2 - I took my radiator to a local guy, he tested it and it needed a re-core. By the time that he unsolder'd the top and bottom tanks, replaced the core, re-solder the tanks and finish it off with a coat of paint - it cost me $500.
Yes it was a lot of money, and I had considered just buying a new radiator but I had read about poor quality radiators and wanted to keep it original.
When restoring my 60 Series 2 - I took the radiator to the same guy. This time all it needed was testing, a flush and a coat of paint - it cost me $100
I would like to think that both radiators will last another 50 years now - and outlive me.
I think that it's worth it for peace of mind, but that's just my opinion.

I had a look at a radiator in a ex - Army 2A LWB yesterday that has just been re-cored, it had cost $600.00 to be done.
That difference in price would be the cost of freight across Bass Strait. :mad:

.

[ashhhhh]

Yeah ive been quoted $500 for other vehicles, biggest wrought ever I reckon. :mad:

Ill see what he says I guess, looking inside it looks pretty good - looks can be deceiving I guess.

[ashhhhh]

I'm still gradually cleaning out this water jacket, what a job.. :banghead:

While waiting for the acid to do it's thing I got the buffer out again.
Got the doors and roof done.

I also stripped the bulkhead and the front panel, ready for blasting.

I've decided I will clean the radiator myself initially and see how it goes, I filled it with the same acid - it does not react with brass or copper and is great on scale.

I then investigated one of the ute tub toolbox and discovered.... A Fairey OD!! :D
Unfortunately it's had some water in it, the mainshaft is pitted and would need replacing, haven't disassembled the rest yet.
Parts are very dear, I reckon it would cost at least 800 to get it sorted. I've always wanted one for my S3, is it worth doing it up or better off going for a RoverDrive etc?

[Landy Smurf]

roverdrive are the best but are about 2.2k for a sseries I think, you could probably pick up a good fairey OD for $500 if you do not want to bother with yours. It really depends if you need new gears. I personally if you were going to look at roverdrive prices go with a cheaper overdrive and fit disc brakes.

[wrinklearthur]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/250.jpg

Have you been able to locate another extension for the tap yet?
.

[ashhhhh]

Have you been able to locate another extension for the tap yet?
.
Yeah mate the one from my spare engine is OK. I'll get the broken one turned down to cut a new thread at some point too. :thumbup:

[ashhhhh]

Stripped and cleaned some random bits today, added to the pile. ;)

[ashhhhh]

Made some good progress today. Finished with the water jacket and fitted the new plugs.
Once I get the new gaskets and water pump I can seal it up again.

After that, the day was spent cleaning really.
Looking forward to getting all these parts so I can really get stuck in!

[dreamin']

Looks great - well done.

Are you planning to paint the block or leave it as is?

[ashhhhh]

Thanks mate.
Yeah I think I will, was planning to leave "as is" but there is a lot of bare metal.

Is the right color easy to get in a paint which is heat and fuel resistant?

[Designosaur]

Thanks mate.
Yeah I think I will, was planning to leave "as is" but there is a lot of bare metal.


It will all be OIL coloured soon enough :p

You are going great on this, enjoyable to read your updates and see progress!

Bernie

[ashhhhh]

It will all be OIL coloured soon enough :p

You are going great on this, enjoyable to read your updates and see progress!

Bernie

Haha... Yes very true. I'll add a BASE color then. ;)

Just spotted this while sitting on the chassis, enjoying a 10am beer. (Does that mean I have a problem?)
Interesting!

[ashhhhh]

I got my first box of goodies today.
Brake hoses, water pump, hub seals, swivel overhaul kit/railko conversion, engine mounts, oil filter, God knows what else. . I've forgotten.. :what:

Also waiting on parts from the series 1 shop, and prices from Dunsfold on a gigantic list I sent them..

Aside from that I've cleaned up the exhaust manifold, ready to go back on.

The old shocks are pretty cool, Monroe-Whiley.
They don't leak, can I call them good?

[ashhhhh]

I started replacing ball joints today, while I wait for engine parts.

Hardly a big job, but an easy one and one less to do! :D
Definitely good to see new bits going on.

[ashhhhh]

I got stuck in to the prop shafts today, I'd forgotten much I hate doing uni joints.

To make matters worse the joints are of dubious quality and two broke while fitting... never had it happen before. (They were pressed, not hammered)

Anyway, I got two done, two left.
The splined joints seem OK, not too much wear.
Are the leather seals available?

[ashhhhh]

...

[ashhhhh]

Stripped down the first swivel today.
There is a bronze bush that mates with a land on the stub axle, both show a lot of wear.
Reading suggests that these were actually omitted from later axles, does this mean I can ignore them?

The swivel ball has also had a rough time at some point, but fortunately I think the damage is inside the seal.

The half shaft shows some color but I'm unsure if they are meant to be that way. (Heat treated)

[Defender Mike]

You can get new swivels easy enough and i don't think they are expensive . If your gunna do it do it so ya don't have to do it again too soon.;)
I will pull my sharts diffs etc out when the new parabolics arrive and do it all at once. My swivels were replaced not long before I got the 109.
Its coming along well did you bead blast those bits or gewt stuck in with a wire brush.
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

You can get new swivels easy enough and i don't think they are expensive . If your gunna do it do it so ya don't have to do it again too soon.;)
I will pull my sharts diffs etc out when the new parabolics arrive and do it all at once. My swivels were replaced not long before I got the 109.
Its coming along well did you bead blast those bits or gewt stuck in with a wire brush.
Mike:)

Yeah I'll have to replace them, any recommendations on where to get them?
All four x four have them for 165 each, CLR want 240 each... not sure if they better quality.
I've heard the plating is average on some of them, rather get quality items if possible.

Yep just degreased then wire brushed with the angle grinder, does a good job.

I got my order from DLR the other day, gee those guys are awesome.
Anyway, got the water pump, thermostat housing etc refitted.
Getting there. ;)

[JDNSW]

Looks like the axle has got heat treated when running in the bush without the benefit of any lubrication! Probably still serviceable however. Later ones omitted the brass bush - I suspect that the bush is a hangover from the Tracta joints used in the early years, and it was only found by experience that they were not really needed.

John

[Defender Mike]

Yeah I'll have to replace them, any recommendations on where to get them?
All four x four have them for 165 each, CLR want 240 each... not sure if they better quality.
I've heard the plating is average on some of them, rather get quality items if possible.

Yep just degreased then wire brushed with the angle grinder, does a good job.

I got my order from DLR the other day, gee those guys are awesome.
Anyway, got the water pump, thermostat housing etc refitted.
Getting there. ;)
Might need a couple of new engine mounts as well.
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

Might need a couple of new engine mounts as well.
Mike:)

Like these? :D
I'll be taking the whole power train out while I clean and paint the chassis, do them then.

Yeah I ordered the swivels today, 240 EACH from CLR.
Not that happy with the price but hey, that's what it costs I guess. (They are brand new)

All 4x4 did them for 165 but they were exchange, I would have paid freight on mine, then ended up with Joe blows busted arse rechromed items - seemed like false economy.

[Defender Mike]

My valve seals and gasket kit arrived this morning from 4x4 spares.
I will take some pics doing this.Im on my way to my aircraft welder mate to add a few extra canopy tie down brackets that I salvaged off my old tail gate. I needed extra brackets because of the zips im putting in. Yesterday I fitted 2 new West coast mirrors so I can see behind with the canopy on. My old tail gate has gone to the sheet metal guy to be reveres engineered so I end up with a real Series 1 tail gate and looks like I might start on pulling the fairey o'drive down on Monday to check it all out before fitting. I put new leads and dizzy cap on yesterday as well and had a nasty tick tick which turned out to be the screws in the cap that attach the leads not home enough to make good contact. Busy busy but the end is in sight>
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

Sounds like you're smashing through it too!

Today is carby rebuild day, because is too hot to do anything else! (And my swivel housings didn't arrive)

Found this other carby amongst the spares, unsure if it was a standard fitting. It's a zenith VN.

[JDNSW]

Sounds like you're smashing through it too!

Today is carby rebuild day, because is too hot to do anything else! (And my swivel housings didn't arrive)

Found this other carby amongst the spares, unsure if it was a standard fitting. It's a zenith VN.

I'm pretty certain all Series 1 had Solex carburetters. And it does not look familiar!

John

[ashhhhh]

I'm pretty certain all Series 1 had Solex carburetters. And it does not look familiar!

John

Yeah best I could find was it's from a Hillman, Austin etc, maybe a tractor?

I've found that the throttle shaft is worn on the other carb, I'll have to get it bushed or something, oversize shaft maybe?
Open to thoughts on that one. :thumbup:

[Dinty]

Could also be off an English Ford "Enfo" Zephyr etc cheers Dennis:angel:

[Landy Smurf]

i have a 2l spreadbore engine with a zenith but i am pretty certain solex were used all the way until 2a

[Defender Mike]

You need a Solex . Take a look at the Solex thread....... thread I started . Old mate Wrinklearthur put up some pics today of solex repos that are quite reasonably priced . The correct carby will make it much easier to tune and run well. You may also be able to get he correct carby on here from a generous donor????? perhaps . Forget trying to run anything else you will get it to work but never as nature intended. I will give you the tip my carby was playing up and old mate Graeme who has a stable of 48's and 51's put a solex he had rebuilt on my truck . We bolted it on turned the key and it ran so smooth I couldn't hear it and it idled with the generator light on without stalling. Like the swivel hubs the right bits are required.
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

You need a Solex . Take a look at the Solex thread....... thread I started . Old mate Wrinklearthur put up some pics today of solex repos that are quite reasonably priced . The correct carby will make it much easier to tune and run well. You may also be able to get he correct carby on here from a generous donor????? perhaps . Forget trying to run anything else you will get it to work but never as nature intended. I will give you the tip my carby was playing up and old mate Graeme who has a stable of 48's and 51's put a solex he had rebuilt on my truck . We bolted it on turned the key and it ran so smooth I couldn't hear it and it idled with the generator light on without stalling. Like the swivel hubs the right bits are required.
Mike:)

I agree Mike, but I've got the correct Solex. :thumbup:
This other one came in the parts box.
I just have to get the throttle shaft slop fixed and it's good to go. (I got a full rebuild kit from DLR)

[wrinklearthur]

The top number gives the manufacturing date so you can match the correct carburettor with the same year engine.

http://www.autoshoppingcenter.com/classic/parts/images/carburators/Bristol_B_32PBI-6.JPG
.

[B.S.F.]

Produced in the London factory (L) , February 58 ( B, second letter in alphabet =second month of the year.).W.

[ashhhhh]

Good to know, thanks! It also means my carb is probably original, or at least matches the year (Jan. 56)

I've finished the rebuild anyhow, the internals were in great nick and appeared to be untouched.
Once I get the throttle shaft sorted it's a good un.

Oh yeah, got a new electronic SU pump too. ;)

[back_in]

Hi
looking at your throttle shaft it is appears to be showing signs of wear
if there is wear on the shaft, you will get air sucking were you do not want it to
you will never get the engine to run sweetly
cheers
ian

[ashhhhh]

Hi
looking at your throttle shaft it is appears to be showing signs of wear
if there is wear on the shaft, you will get air sucking were you do not want it to
you will never get the engine to run sweetly
cheers
ian

Yeah I thought it was the body, but your right, it is the shaft.
I'm happy, the shaft is readily available and saves me getting the body reamed. ;)

[back_in]

Hi
you can get
or I have them
they are about 1/2 a mm over size
this takes up the wear in the throttle body
it is strange the shaft wears, the body does not to the same amount
cheers
Ian

[ashhhhh]

Hi
you can get
or I have them
they are about 1/2 a mm over size
this takes up the wear in the throttle body
it is strange the shaft wears, the body does not to the same amount
cheers
Ian
Definitely keen to get through you if you are offering! How much are you asking?
Yes I thought it strange too, they must have used a fairly soft brass to ensure it wears first.

[back_in]

Hi
I can buy them local
would have to ask for the current price
cheers
Ian

[JDNSW]

Definitely keen to get through you if you are offering! How much are you asking?
Yes I thought it strange too, they must have used a fairly soft brass to ensure it wears first.

In a gritty environment with only a little movement (heat not a problem) and especially in a vibrating environment, wear tends to be on the harder item because grit embeds in the softer material. I have had two specific examples of this on my 110 - firstly a brake line rubbed through where the nylon fuel line touched it, secondly, an airconditioner pipe rubbed through where the starter cable touched it. In neither case did the softer material show significant wear.

The material used for the shaft will have been chosen for machinability, and the body material for its performance when die casting. I would be very surprised if any thought was given to the effects of wear.

John

[ashhhhh]

Hi
I can buy them local
would have to ask for the current price
cheers
Ian
That'd be good, I haven't been able to find an Australian source.
Dunsfold do them, and the carburettor hospital - both O/S.
Thanks.

[ashhhhh]

In a gritty environment with only a little movement (heat not a problem) and especially in a vibrating environment, wear tends to be on the harder item because grit embeds in the softer material. I have had two specific examples of this on my 110 - firstly a brake line rubbed through where the nylon fuel line touched it, secondly, an airconditioner pipe rubbed through where the starter cable touched it. In neither case did the softer material show significant wear.

The material used for the shaft will have been chosen for machinability, and the body material for its performance when die casting. I would be very surprised if any thought was given to the effects of wear.

John

Yes dirt and probably oxidisation from the body metal.

[back_in]

Hi Ashhhh
been on to my supplier here in Adelaide
he has standard 5/16", 8.1mm first oversize, and 21/64 oversize about $14 ea.
I have found the first oversize usually takes up any slop in the throttle body
if the wear is greater you will need to run a 21/64 ream or new drill bit very carefully from one side to the other of the T.B.
if you want the shaft send me a PM with your details
cheers
Ian

[ashhhhh]

Thanks mate, PM sent. :twobeers:

[ashhhhh]

I've been working through the front end bits and pieces. I got the swivel balls and then realised all the seal collars etc were buggered - another DLR order... (an expensive one..)

I've also ordered chassis and engine paint.

There is a new vacuum advance pod on the way, and the wiring harness should be here shortly.

The latest job was the carby throttle shaft. I got hold of a replacement in the stock size.
It seemed stupid to ream the body for an oversized shaft, only to have it eventually wear and then be useless. What I did instead was ream and fit some brass tube which was a perfect fit for the stock shaft, it's a tight inference fit so if it ever wears I can just push it out and resleeve.

I was hoping someone could take some pictures of the pump rod arrangement though, mine differs from the manual and doesn't look right.

Cheers
Ash

[ashhhhh]

I'm still waiting on my second swivel housing, but in the meantime I've got one completed. :)

I've also got the half shafts rebuilt, new distance pieces, unis etc.

I'll be using the KBS Coatings system on all parts and the chassis, it's awesome stuff.

I've already learnt that less is more however, its very intolerant of thick coats.
I've got their engine paint too.

[Defender Mike]

That looks pretty darn good I will google up this KBS stuff. :)

[ashhhhh]

That looks pretty darn good I will google up this KBS stuff. :)

Yeah its similar to POR15, if you have seen it. The difference is its Australian and way cheaper for that reason.

The main coating is high gloss, but they have a hard wearing top coat which gives it that nice OEM satin look. :thumbup:

[ashhhhh]

The last couple of days have been dedicated to degreasing and etching the engine, today was paint.

Happy with the result, the colour is lighter in the flesh. (is a metallic)
The alloy parts need a buff, the black parts need paint, then it's done.

[Defender Mike]

The last couple of days have been dedicated to degreasing and etching the engine, today was paint.

Happy with the result, the colour is lighter in the flesh. (is a metallic)
The alloy parts need a buff, the black parts need paint, then it's done.

Have you rebuilt it or doesn't it need it?
Mike

[ashhhhh]

Have you rebuilt it or doesn't it need it?
Mike

I haven't, and I hope it doesn't.. Haha.
It turns over, has decent compression, no funny sounds - fingers crossed. ;)

[ashhhhh]

I haven't, and I hope it doesn't.. Haha.
It turns over, has decent compression, no funny sounds - fingers crossed. ;)

A full rebuild is out of the budget, it will be done at a later stage if required.

[Defender Mike]

They keep going and going even if they use a bit of oil .

[russellrovers]

The last couple of days have been dedicated to degreasing and etching the engine, today was paint.

Happy with the result, the colour is lighter in the flesh. (is a metallic)
The alloy parts need a buff, the black parts need paint, then it's done.

hi ash take the timing chain case off 50 years of sludge a good investment jim

[ashhhhh]

hi ash take the timing chain case off 50 years of sludge a good investment jim

Ah right, it tends to build up there?

[Defender Mike]

Packing the 90 and off tomorrow if we go through Armidale and I think we will. I will give you a shout if you pm your number.
Mike:)

[ashhhhh]

Packing the 90 and off tomorrow if we go through Armidale and I think we will. I will give you a shout if you pm your number.
Mike:)

Yeah mate let me know!

I've slowed down a bit lately, Christmas commitments and such. ;)

I finally got all the (correct and good quality) parts for the front axle, and it's done, bar final assembly.

The motor is getting very close to a test run, although I may pull the timing cover recommended.

One question, could anyone take a picture of their dizzy internals?
Mine was gutted and I would like to confirm how everything is wired together. :what:

My main job over Christmas will be to get the chassis painted, wish me luck!

[ashhhhh]

I put in a focused effort on the front axle yesterday, basically done now.
I did want to wait until the casing was fitted to the chassis, but I got sick of bits sitting around in boxes..

Next job, chassis - that's gonna be a big one.