replacing altinator...easy??

[Deltacharliepapa]

hey all.

im having the classic altinator issue, battery charge light flickering, rev counter has stopped working. it started with the belt slipping, fixed that, belt started slipping again and then the problem started.

i finally have a day off tomoro and im going to have a look at it.

-check all the wireing
-tighten the belt again
-give it a wack with some 2x4 and see if i get a heap of black dust.(brushes)

thing is, its 21 years old and im planing a decent trip in a few months and im thinking if that doesnt work i might just get a new one for piece of mind.

so the real question is, is it as simple as bolt off bolt on with an altinator?

your help is much appreciated as all ways.

cheers.

dave.

[brenno]

Yep, not hard at all.

Undo the connectors, undo the bolts, remove, fit new one.

When I did mine, the hardest part was getting the bloody belt back on.

[Deltacharliepapa]

Yep, not hard at all.

Undo the connectors, undo the bolts, remove, fit new one.

When I did mine, the hardest part was getting the bloody belt back on.

excellent, cheers.

any tips with the belt?:D

dave.

[bee utey]

Before you get detailed step-by-step instructions fed to you, consider:

1. Have a close look, try out your spanners, work out what sizes you need
2. Study a workshop manual (e.g. RAVE available from Dave's Interesting Things (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/))
3. Purchsae a suitable replacement alternator
4. Disconnect the batteries before welding your spanner across the output terminals
5. Reconnect batteries and test drive.
6. Ask questions afterwards when you have done your best to understand the vehicle using your newfound knowledge gained by reading the manual and searching for all the answers already posted all over the internet.

[brenno]

any tips with the belt

Yep, get a decent sized spanner or a spanner and extension bar for the tensioner, and mate to give you a hand ;)

I only had a regular old spanner to assist in moving the belt tensioner, and the new alternator I got at the time had a bigger pulley than the one I removed. This on top of having a 2 inch body lift, and 2 inch suspension lift, left me up on top of the engine trying to use my foot to use the spanner to move the tensioner, and my hands trying to get the belt on.

Many a choice word was spoken, and much skin was lost, but I got there in the end. :p

[Deltacharliepapa]

great advice, thanks guys. have been reading the work shop manual when camping.

helps me sleep.:p

cheers.

dave.

[bee utey]

Yep, get a decent sized spanner or a spanner and extension bar for the tensioner, and mate to give you a hand ;)


I think DCP's system is vee belt not serpentine, being 1992. Manual tensioners everywhere.

[brenno]

I think DCP's system is vee belt not serpentine, being 1992. Manual tensioners everywhere.

Ah ok, thanks. I was giving tips on the serpentine.

[waltsd]

If its a 300tdi their are 2 different size pulley's on the alternators which require different size belts. I believe the alternators are the same but the earlier Disco 300tdi have a larger pulley. I didn't realise this till later and wondered why tacho was higher than it should be. I haven't bothered to change it, Don't know if this is an issue or not, but its been that way for around 3yrs now! I have bought the pulley (which you can purchase seperately) to put on, but haven't bothered yet! Anyone know if its a problem to run with the wrong size pulley??

Changing alternator was an easy job though.

Dave

[Deltacharliepapa]

so i found out how much they are the other day. ouch. brand new $540 i think.

i want to get a new or reco one so i can pull the old one apart and replace the brushes, A. so i can see what makes them tick and B, to have a spare on board for long trips.

any advice on where to get a good reco jobby or just get a new one?

cheers.

dave.

[jazzaD1]

if you have the time, get one from the uk, much cheaper

Land Rover Parts | Range Rover Spares - Accessories | Paddock (http://www.paddockspares.com/)
or
Land Rover Parts and Spares Direct (http://www.lrdirect.com/)

[Deltacharliepapa]

if you have the time, get one from the uk, much cheaper

Land Rover Parts | Range Rover Spares - Accessories | Paddock (http://www.paddockspares.com/)
or
Land Rover Parts and Spares Direct (http://www.lrdirect.com/)

thanks for the links mate. will have a look tomoz.

cheers again.

dav

[bee utey]

Y'see if you post sufficient information for a definite answer, e.g the exact model of vehicle and a picture of the alternator involved, you could have a straight answer. Don't assume that everyone has read all your posts.

For example, if you showed that you run a 1992 D1 V8 with a picture, I'd say go to your local auto wreckers or electrician, get a suitable second hand/rebuilt Bosch alternator off something like an XF Falcon or early Magna and adapt the mounts to take it. It's not that hard, tons of people have done it. There is one internal mod that needs done to some alternators, that is to solder on a flying lead to one of the main diode junctions to run your tacho. And you will probably have to swap the pulley off your old alternator.

[Deltacharliepapa]

Y'see if you post sufficient information for a definite answer, e.g the exact model of vehicle and a picture of the alternator involved, you could have a straight answer. Don't assume that everyone has read all your posts.

For example, if you showed that you run a 1992 D1 V8 with a picture, I'd say go to your local auto wreckers or electrician, get a suitable second hand/rebuilt Bosch alternator off something like an XF Falcon or early Magna and adapt the mounts to take it. It's not that hard, tons of people have done it. There is one internal mod that needs done to some alternators, that is to solder on a flying lead to one of the main diode junctions to run your tacho. And you will probably have to swap the pulley off your old alternator.

thanks for the advice bee-utey. i get what your saying and i appreciate your knowlage and your astuteness on this forum and i will be more specific in future posts.

im very new to this, i hardly have the tool kit to get the old alt out, let alone i had to google image what brushes look like and what a diode is. and a flying lead??

when it comes to adapting mounts.... i dont think so at this stage. im worried about doing more damage to my engine and messing some thing up that is going to cost me more to replace. but i really want to start out fixing the little things as they occur and increase my knowledge and confidence.

i honestly do appreciate every ones input, but please dont asume that just because tones of people have done it, that i can.

im here to learn, slowly at best i reckon.

please keep the advice flowing. i love it.

cheers

dave.

[Spel1]

...This on top of having a 2 inch body lift, and 2 inch suspension lift, left me up on top of the engine trying to use my foot to use the spanner to move the tensioner, and my hands trying to get the belt on.

As a general point. To help those with lifted vehicles, and if you have ramps - back the rear wheels up on the ramps. Helps to bring the front down to a more workable height and angle. I find its less of a reach while working on top of the engine.

[Gumnut]

Hi,

Good point regarding full details and engine type etc.

This one has been covered a few times before, but from my experience:

For tdi - bearings about the price of two beers, but a bit tricky to get pulley off, and front bearing out. Not super hard, but probably not a roadside job unless very well equipped.

brushes/regulator - I have done a few lately, $70 (Canberra) - $140 (Darwin) same national company, and the one in Darwin did not fit. The Bakelite or other black plastic housing fouled on the outer bearing housing. It may have only needed a lick with a file, but when stuff is twice the odds it should fit....Grrrhg. So the only one that is back in stock anywhere in Darwin circa Aug 13 is caveat emptor! If you get one that fits, and if the slip rings are ok, and if the bearings are ok, I cannot see that the brushes cannot be replaced in situ. Even if it is a temporary job till bearings can get done....

Kits are available for diodes and slip rings, but I have not needed them, yet, touch wood.

Cheers,

Gumnut