Suspension in 2012 110.

[voltron]

I have been very happy with all aspects of the 110 so far with 5000km on the clock and loading her up nearly every weekend for camping trips with the family.

I just got back from a trip to Barrington and it is the first time I have encountered boney corrugated dirt road in the Defender and this road had about 45mins worth of bone jarring nauseum, I feel sorry for the poor Grader driver who has to try and work with that material. I went up on my own this time so the car wasn't really carrying anything substantial weight wise. I could handle it but I don't think my wife and children could, no matter what speed I travelled at and I was planning on going back with them soon.

I have been reading about a few of the guys who switched to Firestone Airbags and wandering if this will solve my problem. I am a bit hesitant about messing with anything that is related to handling and suspension dynamics outside of factory. Also some people have raised the concern of bigger problems should one fail when out in isolation but that could happen to any engine part I guess.

Thoughts thanks guys.

Cheers

[goingbush]

Sounds like your tyres are too hard,
What tyre pressures are you running ?

[voltron]

Sounds like your tyres are too hard,
What tyre pressures are you running ?

45 psi from memory mate. Never really considered that though is it was the factory setting from when I pick up the car.

[redrovertdi]

I generally run at 36 pounds[300tdi 110] with more air in the back subject to load, 45 alround is way to hard on the car and passengers in my opinion

[Leroy_Riding]

Agree with those above, my 90 was unbearable at 40+psi running 38psi all round now much more bearable, on corrugations Id possibly go to 36/34 to soften it out.
Leroy

[voltron]

I generally run at 36 pounds[300tdi 110] with more air in the back subject to load, 45 alround is way to hard on the car and passengers in my opinion

Is that on all terrain tyres??

Happy to try it if it is.

Thanks

[voltron]

Agree with those above, my 90 was unbearable at 40+psi running 38psi all round now much more bearable, on corrugations Id possibly go to 36/34 to soften it out.
Leroy

Ok thanks Leroy.

[goingbush]

there is your problem, this pressures are way high.

235 / 85 r16 AT's
I run 28 front , 32 rear with 110 empty ,
loaded its 32 front 40 rear

[Bundalene]

What speed were you doing?



Corrugations tend to ride better when sitting above 70kms per hour. Any less than this can be quite uncomfortable. We travel the Gove road a lot with over 600kms of corrugations each way and try to stay above 80kms per hour. At this speed the corrugations all but disappear.


We run a a bit under 40psi on BFG mud terrains. (vehicle loaded and towing a boat) Also have Polyairs in the rear, pressurised to level the vehicle.




Erich

[BilboBoggles]

I also agree with tyre pressures , 32/28 see to work really well on corrugations.

One other thing that might be worth trying - and something I recently did on my 2003 Defender - I had the springs changed to longer but softer springs. I gained about 1-2" in ride height. I'm not sure of the rates but they were a little bit softer than stock, but the ride is unbelievably smooth now. It glides over bumps and corrugations instead of shaking itself to bits. I used to drive range rovers, and am used to the soft almost floating ride, and it's a lot closer to that now. In fact I just got back from a corrugated road trip with a smile on my face with the way it handled.

Only slight issue is that the TD5 does not have sway bars, so it does tend to lean a little bit more in corners, but nothing like the old Range Rover used to do.

The advantage of softer longer springs is that you don't need engineering certificates, the total cost is around $400-$500 and you keep the vehicle stock from a warranty perspective. And you also gain significant increases in offroad articulation.

[voltron]

I will mess around with the tyre pressures and find what I feel is satisfactory for road and off road. I was happy with the 45 psi for road because the car handled well around town on this pressure. Didn't think to adjust the setting for the change in conditions because I didn't know it was necessary except for driving in sand, just figured the AT's were for all conditions;;). Guess I have alot to learn.

I am hoping I don't need to mess around with the standard suspension setup but does changing shocks and springs etc affect it's load carrying ability, chassis dynamics ( if it has any ) etc?? It's the one area of a car I like to put alot of faith in the manufacturer. Or am I just being naive??

[Loubrey]

Hi Voltron,

Don't be afraid of much lower pressures on your car as it really doesn't affect your handling that much.

My 90 is an absolutely awful drive above 36 psi and I actually run around for my daily use at 2.2 Bar or around 32.3 psi mathematically.

My car returns 10l/100km or 10km/1l like clockwork on those pressures (both my Goodyear Grabber A/T and my KM2 Muddies).

Certainly shouldn't have suspension issues on such a new car...

Cheers,

Lou

[flagg]

I also agree with tyre pressures , 32/28 see to work really well on corrugations.

One other thing that might be worth trying - and something I recently did on my 2003 Defender - I had the springs changed to longer but softer springs. I gained about 1-2" in ride height. I'm not sure of the rates but they were a little bit softer than stock, but the ride is unbelievably smooth now. It glides over bumps and corrugations instead of shaking itself to bits. I used to drive range rovers, and am used to the soft almost floating ride, and it's a lot closer to that now. In fact I just got back from a corrugated road trip with a smile on my face with the way it handled.

Only slight issue is that the TD5 does not have sway bars, so it does tend to lean a little bit more in corners, but nothing like the old Range Rover used to do.

The advantage of softer longer springs is that you don't need engineering certificates, the total cost is around $400-$500 and you keep the vehicle stock from a warranty perspective. And you also gain significant increases in offroad articulation.

I recently did this too with LRA springs on my Isuzu 110. Lovely ride, and in combination with some slightly softer than usual Bilstien shocks. I have a rear sway bar, however (and a locker, so the gain in on road handling is much greater than the loss of off road ability).

[voltron]

Hi Voltron,

Don't be afraid of much lower pressures on your car as it really doesn't affect your handling that much.

My 90 is an absolutely awful drive above 36 psi and I actually run around for my daily use at 2.2 Bar or around 32.3 psi mathematically.

My car returns 10l/100km or 10km/1l like clockwork on those pressures (both my Goodyear Grabber A/T and my KM2 Muddies).

Certainly shouldn't have suspension issues on such a new car...

Cheers,

Lou

Notes. Thanks for your help.

Cheers.

[debruiser]

I run 30 front 35ish rear. higher in the rear with load. that's in a 90. I find the ride harsh even on bitumen if it's up around 40.

[n plus one]

Tyre pressures are your primary high-speed suspension (i.e. corrugations) in a live axle vehicle - like others have said, lower your pressures for corrugations.

I run three pairs of Bilstiens, lifted and appropriately-rated springs and rear airbags on my 110 and its performance on corrugations is still primarily determined by tyre pressure settings.

All this fancy stuff above just controls ride height, flex, spring rate, body roll/yaw and other low speed compression/extensions (dips, etc) - if you want your suspension to do much re corrugations you need to dramatically reduce your unsprung mass (i.e. get a Disco 4 :D).

[Bush65]

I also agree with tyre pressures , 32/28 see to work really well on corrugations.

One other thing that might be worth trying - and something I recently did on my 2003 Defender - I had the springs changed to longer but softer springs. I gained about 1-2" in ride height. I'm not sure of the rates but they were a little bit softer than stock, but the ride is unbelievably smooth now. It glides over bumps and corrugations instead of shaking itself to bits. I used to drive range rovers, and am used to the soft almost floating ride, and it's a lot closer to that now. In fact I just got back from a corrugated road trip with a smile on my face with the way it handled.

Only slight issue is that the TD5 does not have sway bars, so it does tend to lean a little bit more in corners, but nothing like the old Range Rover used to do.

The advantage of softer longer springs is that you don't need engineering certificates, the total cost is around $400-$500 and you keep the vehicle stock from a warranty perspective. And you also gain significant increases in offroad articulation.


I recently did this too with LRA springs on my Isuzu 110. Lovely ride, and in combination with some slightly softer than usual Bilstien shocks. I have a rear sway bar, however (and a locker, so the gain in on road handling is much greater than the loss of off road ability).


Tyre pressures are your primary high-speed suspension (i.e. corrugations) in a live axle vehicle - like others have said, lower your pressures for corrugations.

I run three pairs of Bilstiens, lifted and appropriately-rated springs and rear airbags on my 110 and its performance on corrugations is still primarily determined by tyre pressure settings.

All this fancy stuff above just controls ride height, flex, spring rate, body roll/yaw and other low speed compression/extensions (dips, etc) - if you want your suspension to do much re corrugations you need to dramatically reduce your unsprung mass (i.e. get a Disco 4 :D).
For a long time, like BilboBoggles and flagg, I have been convinced of the merits of longer, lower rate springs for rough travel conditions, but greater bump travel is required before hitting the bump stop or the advantage is lost. They soak up the big hits/bumps while imposing a lot less stress on vehicle and occupants.

The soft springs do help for corrugations, however the others recommending lower tyre pressures are correct.

n pluss one has put it well.

Also many outback roads are constructed from rocks that will damage your tyres if they are inflated to highway pressures.

Lowering the pressure to suit corrugations and rocky roads, shouldn't require you to continually adjust your pressures when conditions change over the short term, just pay attention to the change in temperature of the tyres when speed increases. Do this a few times and you will soon learn what works best with your vehicle.

[jimr1]

Hi voltron , there has been some good advice posted , I would like to add my 10c worth , a good air pump , and tyre gauge are a must , they don't cost to much , and if looked after will give you good service . cheers jimr1.:)

[n plus one]

For a long time, like BilboBoggles and flagg, I have been convinced of the merits of longer, lower rate springs for rough travel conditions, but greater bump travel is required before hitting the bump stop or the advantage is lost. They soak up the big hits/bumps while imposing a lot less stress on vehicle and occupants.

Good point! This is something I didn't mention about my setup, but it certainly helps to have as much (well controlled) travel as possible.

[voltron]

Hi voltron , there has been some good advice posted , I would like to add my 10c worth , a good air pump , and tyre gauge are a must , they don't cost to much , and if looked after will give you good service . cheers jimr1.:)

Thanks Jim.

I got that sorted already. Now I have a reason to use them, haha.

I was in fern tree gully a couple of weeks ago for the Tulip festival ( Wife
and kids wanted to go:D) Nice part of the world.

Cheers.