New week, new problem

[mattadelaide1975]

Bessy, is not playing nice with me at the moment.

In the last week:

1. Replaced top radiator hose
2. Oil going into ECU - Need to replace injector harness
3. FPR needs repair/replacing

AND NOW:censored::censored::censored:

I have developed a nice chirp noise under acceleration from about 20km/h to 50km/h after that the chirp can not be heard.

At idle, there is no noise, if im stationary, in park and rev the engine no chirp (just wanted to hear the engine rev I think:p)

After reading through the threads, I am thinking it is most likely the DC.

The only problem I have is I cant lock the CDL and take out the drive shaft and still drive around, as I have one of those 2002 model D2's :mad:

Couple of questions:

1. What do I need to check to confirm that it is the DC... does it require the removal of the driveshaft to get a good eyeball on it, or is there some basic tests that can be done with the driveshaft in situ?

2. If my suspicions are correct, and it is the driveshaft that needs to be rebuilt, Does anyone know of any reasonable driveshaft repairers in Adelaide?

My Wife is going to love this when I tell her:(:(:(

Cheers guys

Matt

[Disco Muppet]

Honestly mate, best bet is to whip the shaft off.
It's all of 8 bolts, 14mm spanner or 9/16ths.
As for rebuilding, if you've got a vice, a hammer, and some sockets you can DIY :)
If not, there should be plenty of decent engineering shops locally that could sort it out for you.
It's much better to check now and pay even $600 for a new HD shaft, than $6000 to fix the mess it would create if it let go.

[spudboy]

I've used these guys down in Cavan. Walked in off the street with a Series I prop-shaft, and walked out with all the bits to refurbish it!

Image

Hardy Spicer
Directions Be the first to review

Address: 56-58 Churchill Rd N, Dry Creek SA 5094
Phone:(08) 8349 6400

When you say it chirps - it it only under acceleration, or even when coasting?

Is it a Diesel TD5? If it sounds like a squealing fan belt at all (not quite the same as a 'chirp') it might be your exhaust gasket. You'd swear it was a belt noise.... but that is just a side thought....

[mattadelaide1975]

I've used these guys down in Cavan. Walked in off the street with a Series I prop-shaft, and walked out with all the bits to refurbish it!

Image

Hardy Spicer
Directions Be the first to review

Address: 56-58 Churchill Rd N, Dry Creek SA 5094
Phone:(08) 8349 6400

When you say it chirps - it it only under acceleration, or even when coasting?

Is it a Diesel TD5? If it sounds like a squealing fan belt at all (not quite the same as a 'chirp') it might be your exhaust gasket. You'd swear it was a belt noise.... but that is just a side thought....

Yep it only happens under acceleration, and only between 20-50km/h. I tested coasting at 40km/h and the chirp "I think" disappears.

Also Bessy is a TD5, and it is definitely a chirp.... ie noise...silence...noise...silence....noise...silen ce, much the same way a small bird will "talk"

Have just been down to my landy mechanic and he has quoted $450.00 changeover for an exchange with greasable uni's. Think I might take him up on the offer.

[harps]

You can just get under your truck and check for movement in the uni's.

Best bet is just to grab a hold of the shaft and give it a good twist, if you see any movement in the joints then she needs replacing ASAP.

If you don't see any movement by twisting the shaft, try putting a long screwdriver through the gaps in the joint and gently lever the yokes against each other, again if there is any movement, then she's got to come out ASAP.

I rebuilt mine a couple of weeks ago.

[Nankas]

Matt,

Another sign is the DC joint and shaft will get hot to touch after driving. However it will take you all of 10 mins to whip it off 2 x 14mm spanners and roll the car forward or back to get around all the nuts. Once off you will know straight away. Also just a word of warning with cheap greasable shafts mine didn't last long at all because the unis they put in are rubbish. Either get yours rebuilt or buy OEM or i am ordering one through Gibson drive shafts in nsw for $550 see link with heavier duty unis.

Regards Paul


1310 Series 99 04 Land Rover Discovery Series II Front Driveshaft | eBay

[trev]

Sounds like the shaft unis are on the way out,the chirps are probably dry needle rollers.Fix asap to avoid disaster.Get a replacement greasable shaft and don`t forget to divert A/C drains on both sides with suitable tubing if not already done.

Trev.

[Disco Muppet]

If you're going to buy a new shaft, I'd go for a tom woods one.
Bigger unis, stronger, completely greasable, and cheaper than an OEM one.

[mattadelaide1975]

My Land Rover mechanic has advised me that the replacement is an exchange/rebuilt product where all uni's are greasable.

This is the route that I am going, as at the moment I dont have the time to rebuild myself, and need my car as it is my daily/work vehicle.

It is booked in for Friday to have the job done.

cheers guys for your info as per usual :)

Thanks

Matt

[R Miller]

id try to get a needle attachment for a grease gun and at least get try to get a little grease in the joints just for a little piece of mind

[mattadelaide1975]

Drove Bessy to work this morning, and no chirping noise, until just before I reached work, a good 20kms from home.

Is it usual that the chirping would not be present when the vehicle is cold, but would appear as the vehicle warms up? I ask as I have the car booked in for Friday to have the drive shaft replaced.

Cheers

Matt

[Disco Muppet]

There's no constant that can be applied to drive shaft chirps, can happen any time.
The way to tell without looking at it is it should match the throttle input, i.e faster when the speed increases.
For example, mine went from nothing, to only at slow speeds, to all the time, within the space of half a day.

[mattadelaide1975]

ok guys,

Was looking under Bessy this afternoon, having a look at the front drive shaft, and I also found what looks like a crushed pipe or conduit of some kind, that is covered in what looks like foil that is shredded.

Please see attached photos for what I am talking about.

Question - What is it, and is it ok in its present condition.

Cheers

Matt

[Shamo]

Hand brake line. Looks pretty fine to me, that's just outside stuff that is frayed. How does the handbrake feel? Moving fairly freely?

[mattadelaide1975]

Hand brake line. Looks pretty fine to me, that's just outside stuff that is frayed. How does the handbrake feel? Moving fairly freely?

Thanks Shamo,

Handbrake moves freely and works as it should. So nothing to worry about, my back pocket just breathed a little easier after reading that:D

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

Well got a call from my Mechanic on Friday, and he advised that the front drive shaft is fine.... no play, uni's are good, and of course when he took it for a drive there was no chirping :mad:

He did find a leaking oil pipe which was mixing with fuel from the FPR though and is going to fix that today (didnt need the vehicle over the weekend, as we had the inlaws car to drive!!) as well as perform a service on Bessy.

On one hand ive saved myself $450 as I dont need to replace the drive shaft, on the other it worries me that there still may be an underlying issue that is going to visit me with fatal consequences at some stage in the future:(

Where else could the chirping be coming from (I know everyones crystal balls need polishing before answering that:angel:)? My LR Mechanic cant find any other issues (perhaps hes not looking hard enough... as there are always issues:wasntme:)

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

Got Bessy back this afternoon from my LR Specialist.

after a few days in the shop he still cant find the chirp:(

In other news he did find however:

1. Transmission Cooler pipe leaking. He replaced the o-ring.
2. Engine mounts are shot.... goes back in on Monday to get those replaced.
3. Fuel Cooler leaking coolant.... o-rings need replacing... I will be doing this myself. LR Specialist is going to provide the o-rings for me.
4. FPR leaking - Knew this already.

While he had the vehicle he performed a major service.

All in all for the service and the replacement of the o-ring it cost me $485.00 so pretty happy with that :D

now to run off and research on here fuel cooler o-ring replacement

Cheers

Matt

[davrac]

I still think that intermittent chirp is the front tail shaft unit's. Have a look at them. If they are dry and appear rusty brownish they are stuffed or close to.

[bob10]

Where else could the chirping be coming from

Cheers

Matt

You could try taking the auxiliary drive belt off, & checking each bearing in the drive train. Could be a dry bearing. Bob

[mattadelaide1975]

Drove down to Noarlunga today from my side of town, and the chirping reappeared... Great :mad:

As soon as I could got Bessy back to my Mechanic, and this time he was able to feel movement in the front drive shaft!!!!!

There is only slight movement, and while up on the hoist couldnt feel any movement or play in the shaft, and the DC looked ok.

On the ground, he could feel the slight movement.

So it goes in on Monday to get:

1. Drive shaft replaced
2. Engine mounts replaced
3. Fuel Cooler fixed
4. FPR changed over

Bank account will look rather tired and sick at the end of next week :(

Suprisingly its the wife that is saying just get it done.... now who would have thought that!!!!

Cheers guys

Matt

[Disco Muppet]

Put it this way, better a $2k bill now for all those things now, than a $6k bill in a week or two for a new transmission and transfer case.
It stings at times, but it's better than the alternative.

[steve_a]

Ouch, if you are in the north of Adelaide I would have helped, I rebuilt my drive shaft a while ago using hardy spicer, cost about $110 or something for all new UJ and centre bearing.
Also have things like engine crane to do engine mounts and gearbox jobs.
You are better checking the UJs with no handbrake or gear locked if you can, they can feel solid due to tension in the drive train, once you release that they feel a lot looser.

[mattadelaide1975]

Ouch, if you are in the north of Adelaide I would have helped, I rebuilt my drive shaft a while ago using hardy spicer, cost about $110 or something for all new UJ and centre bearing.
Also have things like engine crane to do engine mounts and gearbox jobs.
You are better checking the UJs with no handbrake or gear locked if you can, they can feel solid due to tension in the drive train, once you release that they feel a lot looser.

Thanks Steve, im in Hope Valley, so not to far away at all.

At the moment, I have committed myself to my Mechanic, and dont like dropping out of a committment made once made (if you understand what im trying to say.)

Having said that, if you want to pm me with your mobile, I am looking to do more things myself in the future... and would love a guiding hand sometimes, as im not the best at swinging a spanner, about as good as I get usually is oil filter/fuel filter and fluids. But am definitely wanting to do more of my own.... hip pocket cant seem to keep up with what im taking from it.

Cheers

Matt

[Sleeping Wood]

Small world... I'm in St Agnes...
If you dont mind me asking where did you purchase the Universals and center bearing Steve a, I contacted CBC some time ago and they had no listing for the center bearing, only the Universals were listed.

[northiam]

Small world... I'm in St Agnes...
If you dont mind me asking where did you purchase the Universals and center bearing Steve a, I contacted CBC some time ago and they had no listing for the center bearing, only the Universals were listed.


SCV-82B part no for centre bearing (not 82A wrong seal)
Regards

[mattadelaide1975]

Well got quote back from my Mechanic to do everything that needs doing, and its going to come out at $1557.01

Well below what I thought it was going to be, so am Happy.

Once done I am going to get fully conversant with Bessy, and then do my own services and other stuff. Just need to get the confidence level up that I am able to do it... can fix a computer with my eyes closed, but cars.... we will see :)

[mattadelaide1975]

Well I think Bessy is conspiring to make me broke:mad:

Today the fuel pump died.... driving down South road at peak hour, the car decides to spit, and shudder, thought that wasnt good, managed to get the car into a side street before the engine cut out, thank god for that :o

Anyhow, rand LR Mechanic, and he said sounds like fuel pump, find something hard and give the fuel tank a bash.

Luckily had a rubber mallet in the back (doesnt everyone carry a rubber mallet in their car?) and gave it a bash. The fuel pump squeeked, and squeeled into action. and the car was then able to kick into life again.

Yippee.... car is going, but it severly lacks any power. Gear changes are now sloppy, and the car will not rev any more that 3000rpm. So it was a slow drive back to home, a furhter 15Km's away.

Now the car runs.... if you can call it that, but runs real rough, and sounds aweful... not the usual TD5 sound thats for sure. Just hoping that there is nothing else wrong.

So on Monday..... Mechanic has the following to fix:

1. Front Drive Shaft replacement
2. FPR replacement
3. Fuel Cooler o-rings replacement
4. and now Fuel Pump

Quick question.... the crap running as described above, will that only be because the fuel pump has died, and the vehicle is starved of fuel, or is this going to be a sign of something more wrong... dare I say it.... HG?

Cheers

Matt

[Disco Muppet]

Doesn't sound like the symptoms of a head gasket to me, I'd say it's due to the fuel pump, possibly sent it into limp mode.

[mattadelaide1975]

At this stage of the game, im expecting the worst, over what has happened in the last 2 weeks with her.

on the up side, once it's all fixed, Bessy should (hopefully....touch lots of wood, kiss the rabbits foot, throw salt over the shoulder) run nicely :)

On the other hand, another part will probably get jelous, and want to be replaced:twisted:

Thanks

Matt

[Pippin]

Hi Matt,

Almost certainly the pump. The fuel pump has 2 stages and it sounds like one has failed leaving the injector system low on pressure particularly when the demand is increased hence your poor and erratic performance.

Good luck
Nick

[mattadelaide1975]

Went out and bought the following today:

1. fuel pump
2. fuel pressure regulator
3. Front drive shaft with all uni joints greasable.

This weekend I am going to..... replace the front drive shaft and fuel pump myself.

I feel that after reading, and re-reading and reading over again the information on here, and elsewhere I can do these jobs:D

Will let you all know tomorrow afternoon/evening how it panned out.

Thanks everyone for the information and tips. All very much appreciated.

Cheers

Matt

[Rangeie1981]

good luck with all. this is a small world I am only in Craigmore... I have just recently done my front drive shaft.. I just bit the bullet and bought a Tom woods shaft and fitted that.... as for fuel Pump sounds very much like a fuel pump problem. good luck... none of anyare really hard jobs..

Cheers

Jonesy

[Disco Muppet]

Went out and bought the following today:

1. fuel pump
2. fuel pressure regulator
3. Front drive shaft with all uni joints greasable.

This weekend I am going to..... replace the front drive shaft and fuel pump myself.

I feel that after reading, and re-reading and reading over again the information on here, and elsewhere I can do these jobs:D

Will let you all know tomorrow afternoon/evening how it panned out.

Thanks everyone for the information and tips. All very much appreciated.

Cheers

Matt

Haven't done the fuel pump yet, but I'm rather familiar with prop shafts now :D

Simple job, 9/16th socket, a small extension and a spanner in the same size.
8 bolts. You leave the ones at the transfer case end in and just put the bolts back on them and nip them up.

[clubagreenie]

The chirp also comes from the needle rollers seizing and grabbing the cups and turning them in their hole, then the hole flogs out and even a rebuild won't do any good, the yoke end needs to be replaced.

[mattadelaide1975]

Well this morning I replaced the fuel pump and the Front Drive Shaft.

All in all took me about two and a half hours to complete.

Was happy with what I did today. Next weekend I will do the FPR

Again thanks everyone for their advise.

Cheers

Matt

[spudboy]

Land Rovers: Turning ordinary men into mechanics for 60 Years... or something like that :D

Well done on getting those jobs done.

[ScotsD2]

Great news

You should feel proud some more D2 insight confidence level raised some pennies saved

D2 scare some folks but with a few tools and a bit of research most common jobs are simple.

Pete

[mattadelaide1975]

Just to keep me on my toes,

Bessy decided to flash me today:angel:

More to the point.... while driving home from work, the M & S lights started flashing.

Got to an intersection, switched her off, and back on, and lights went away, and didnt come back for the rest of the trip.

XYZ switch was replaced a couple of years ago by the previous owner. Not sure if aircon overflow tubes were extended though. Will be looking at that on the weekend when I do the FPR.

Cheers

Matt

[SiddersC]

Just to keep me on my toes,

Bessy decided to flash me today:angel:

More to the point.... while driving home from work, the M & S lights started flashing.

Got to an intersection, switched her off, and back on, and lights went away, and didnt come back for the rest of the trip.

XYZ switch was replaced a couple of years ago by the previous owner. Not sure if aircon overflow tubes were extended though. Will be looking at that on the weekend when I do the FPR.

Cheers

Matt

Check the state of charge and condition of your battery, low voltage can cause a host of issues

[eckolsim]

If Bessy is chipped with a large inter cooler this can also happen when you over torque the transmission (too much right pedal). It's just protecting itself.

[mattadelaide1975]

If Bessy is chipped with a large inter cooler this can also happen when you over torque the transmission (too much right pedal). It's just protecting itself.

To much right foot.... lol, I drive like an old grandpa in Bessy (no offence to any grandpa's out there).

Ill check the condition of the Battery tomorrow.

Cheers

Matt

[OffTrack]

If Bessy is chipped with a large inter cooler this can also happen when you over torque the transmission (too much right pedal). It's just protecting itself.

More often than not it's downshift protection, rather than too much torque.

If you are accelerating hard with the throttle at say 80% then nudge it a bit further so it moves into the kick down region the Auto calculates the kick down shift would cause the engine to over-rev so prevents the down shift, then throws up the M&S.

As an example: 3100rpm in 3rd is roughly 100kmh. If you "request" kick down at this speed 4600 rpm is required in 2nd to match the road speed.

Strictly speaking the 4600rpm isn't over the rev limit, but I know from experience that nudging the throttle into kick down in 3rd @ 100kmh triggers this fault. It's just as easy to do this in 2nd too - 2750rpm in 2nd is a reasonable 60kmh, but if you push into kick down, you'd need
4650rpm in 1st to match the road speed.



Fault: 21
Description: Downshift safety monitoring
CARB: P0721
Ambient 1: N_MOT
Ambient 2: VGT_$X
Ambient 3: MMM

The transmission control unit has prevented a gear shift which would have caused an engine overspeed.

Diagnostic operates: Continuously
Conditions to be met to run Diagnostic: Transmission not in Limp Home
Time between fault present & fault stored: 10ms max.
Variables used by the diagnostic: Engine Speed, Target gear
Will limp home mode be selected: Yes
Conditions to be met to clear the fault: Ignition to be switched on whilst fault not present, engine cranked.

[mattadelaide1975]

Well today, the m & S lights were constantly with me.

I did note that when i drove round town in 3rd that they didnt appear as often as they did when in drive.

I checked service history, and the xyz switch was only replaced in June last year. Surely they should last longer than that?

Could it be that its just come loose, and moved slightly, causing the faults?

Incidently had the battery tested and it is fine.

Cheers

Matt

[clubagreenie]

Could be, if it's moved and the ECU is seeing the box in 4th but the switch is saying 3rd. Chaos may reign.

[Davetd5]

Hey Matt, good on ya for having a go!

Td5's are like old Harley's, just keep fixing em, and they just keep going (so someone at Fraser's in WA told me).

Can I ask where you're sourcing your parts from and whether you're happy with the prices? Don't have to give names if that bothers you, hints will do!

Dave

[mattadelaide1975]

Hey Matt, good on ya for having a go!

Td5's are like old Harley's, just keep fixing em, and they just keep going (so someone at Fraser's in WA told me).

Can I ask where you're sourcing your parts from and whether you're happy with the prices? Don't have to give names if that bothers you, hints will do!

Dave

Hi Dave....

The Drive Shaft I got from a friend... at a great price ;)

The fuel pump I got from Triumph and Rover Spares down Lonsdale.

Pricing seems to be consistant with what others quote in this and other forums.

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

put Bessy into the mechanics this morning to have the engine mounts changed.

Also had the steering checked as over the last week it has been playing up.

Mechanic just called me and advised that the steering shaft is knackered... BUT... hes never seen it happen on a D2 before... hes seen it happen in a few range rovers in the past, but not D2's

Cost of new steering shaft..... $400.00

So Bessy is having a holiday at the Mechanics until Monday afternoon.

Just my luck

On the bright side.... im going to have a new D2 by the end of this as all the parts will have been replaced!!!!!

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

Well "Hopefully" I will get Bessy back today.

Been a long winded process, and have been without her since last Thursday, I miss seeing her in the drive :mad:

Anyway, Mechanic was waiting for new steering shaft to arrive from Melbourne. Was ordered Friday, but LRA warehouse didnt sent it on Friday so didnt arrive yesterday. Mechanic has been assured that it was sent via air freight yesterday, so should be here today... fingers crossed.

Anyway this is what has been done:

Engine Mounts replaced
Steering shaft (once it gets here)
xyz switch

Pricing.... not sure as yet!!

Cheers

Matt

[Nova]

Hi Matt,

Can I ask who you are using for mechanic work? I am currently looking for a new mechanic in Adelaide for my D2 and would be interested to hear who you use and how you find them?

Cheers,
Nova

[mattadelaide1975]

Hi Nova,

Sorry about the lateness in reply.

I use Brenton at British 4x4 here in Adelaide

Address: 21 Petrova Ave, Windsor Gardens SA 5087
Phone:(08) 8266 4506

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

Well had Bessy in to British 4x4 today to get the xyz switch replaced.

Switch was replaced..... BUT..... M&S lights still flashing.

Yes the Battery is Good... first thing that was checked.

Mechanic has.... after a bit of head scratching, traced the fault to one of the wiring looms between the xyz switch and the BCU.

So Bessy is now spending the second weekend in a row at the hotel British 4x4, and will have a replacement loom, whichever one it is, on Monday.

Has anyone else had the M&S flashing, where it hasnt been the battery or the XYZ switch?

Cheers

Matt

[trevor]

Just did a little bit of research about this. Like you've encountered it can be related to oil in the ECU. From what I've read and gathered it is relating to communication between transmission and ECU. Paul (off track) will have a lot more info on this but it seems the M&S Lights can be a variety of things (but not as bad as the amigos). It actually happened on mine tonight (has happened before but a restart seemed to fix it but hung around longer today). Common threads are relating to;
Air-con drain (water getting into harness I believe)
Oil in ECU from the red plug
Battery voltage
Even outside temperature has been thrown up a few times. Heat=more common.

I believe there is more but from my limited experience it could be a whole matter of things. As always; work from easiest/cheapest->hardest.

[mattadelaide1975]

Received a call from the Mechanic tonight, letting me know that Bessy is free to come home tomorrow.

M & S light problem resolved. Seems part of the harness had rubbed itself through and was touching wire on body, creating a short.

Part of the Harness replaced with a good quality second hand one, and now no more m & s lights :)

So I now have my weekend planned out... going to replace the o-rings in the fuel cooler (slight leak) and the FPR... slightly more of a leak.

Will let you all know how it goes.

Cheers guys for the information and help.

Thanks

Matt

[Discotrip]

Land Rovers: Turning ordinary men into mechanics for 60 Years...

I need that bumper sticker! I've had my D2 for a couple of weeks and feel like a LR specialist mechanic already.

[winaje]

I need that bumper sticker! I've had my D2 for a couple of weeks and feel like a LR specialist mechanic already.

That'd be one I'd stick on my D2 also, lol

[Petetheprinta]

Land Rovers: Turning ordinary men into mechanics for 60 Years...

I could go for one of those. Had mine for 6 months learnt more about automotive bits and pieces in that time than the last 40 years!!

[Davetd5]

When we met, my wife was a Disco owner and I was a qualified mechanic. I think she saw me coming!

[schuy1]

When we met, my wife was a Disco owner and I was a qualified mechanic. I think she saw me coming!


That is 1 heck of a smart women you got there! :D A disco owner and able to snare a mechanic to work on it into the bargain! :)

[Davetd5]

Yep I admired the fact she had a 4WD, but despised the fact it was British, which equaled unreliable!!
Little did I know what was to come! I even let her upgrade from a tdi to a td5! Oh well, its never actually broken down.
PS: Matt, hope you and Bessy are happily reunited!

[mattadelaide1975]

PS: Matt, hope you and Bessy are happily reunited!

Yes Thanks Dave, we have been reunited :)

And now I remember why i like driving her... so damned comfortable, and since the Engine Mounts have been changed even more so :)

I have the weekend planned out to replace the fuel cooler o-rings and the FPR.

Will let you know how that goes at the end of the weekend. Then there is nothing more major to do on her for the moment (touch wood!!!!)

Cheers

Matt

[mattadelaide1975]

Replaced the o-rings in the fuel cooler today. simple job.

Couldnt replace the FPR, as I was supplied the old style FPR, where as my 02 has the "new" style FPR.

Getting replacement FPR during the week, and will replace FPR next weekend

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, just hope its not a freight train:angel:

[ram16]

my battery isnt charging at the moment ,apart from battery light, air
conditioner comes on by itself m&s lights come on and economy goes off fixing charging problem this weekend

[mattadelaide1975]

Hi guys,

Been a while since I added to this post.

ITs threatening to rain today here in Adelaide, so I put Bessy into the shed and decided to have a look underneath. I heard some "grinding" noises while driving home from work last night.

I have noted that there is a threaded hole which looks like there should be a bolt or something in.

Photo supplied, can someone please tell me if there is supposed to be a bolt in there, or if it is normal?

Im also looking at replacing the FPR today. But will let you know how that goes.

[PhilipA]

That is for a timing pin to establish TDC if you have to take the camshaft out.
Regards Philip A

[mattadelaide1975]

Thanks for the Reply Philip.

Got the Fuel Pressure Regulator replaced today, took me 4 hours to complete.

While removing/reinstalling the FPR I managed to break one of the plastic Coolant hoses, so had to make a run to Sprint Auto and get some heater hose to replace it with.

Once everything was reinstalled, Took Bessy for a test drive, and all is good. Checked for leaks, none found so far, but will keep an eye on any leaks that appear.

Cheers

Matt

[timdo1]

Well done Matt,

Your learning the hard way but you'll be better for the experience. You'll know that car in and out when your done, not to mention a whole new skill set.

Keep on going.:p

[mattadelaide1975]

After replacing the FPR last weekend, and driving around all week without a single drop of oil/coolant etc falling onto my driveway I decided to wash Bessy and give her a bit of love (wife just read this over my shoulder and cracked up laughing)........:angel:

That was Yesterday.... Bessy looks good once washed.... photo below.

Today come out this morning, and greeting me was some glistening deposits on the driveway cement. DAMNED!!!!!!!

Get under the car, and drips of oil are coming from the sump plug and one of the bolts just up from it (ok not the techincal term, but photo below to show where.)

Ive tightened the sump plug slightly but the oil coming from the bolt.... where, does anyone know is this coming from???

Cheers

Matt

[strangy]

Oil here is usually from the rocker gasket/ cover making its way down. If the acoustic panel on the back of the head is still in place you may find it has absorbed plenty of oil and diesel from the FPR over time and is possibly releasing it as it is heated by the engine. Are you sure it's oil and not remnant diesel from the FPR? It is also possible for it to be a weaping sump gasket or rear main seal. The TD5 doesn't seem to be a bad engine for rear main leaks. I have changed a few but only as a precaution rather than necessity. Oldest was at 280km and wasn't leaking, so don't stress on a rear main just yet. From the pics I t looks very clean for engine oil.

[Disco Muppet]

Looks more like diesel to me....
FWIW I've got a similar drop from that spot and I'm 99.999% certain it's from the rocker cover seal.
I'd be surprised if it was a rear main, as Strangy says, not a common problem on the Td5.

[mattadelaide1975]

Thanks Strangy and Muppet!!

I still have the acoustic cover on, and had a look at how badly infused it was with diesel near the FPR, and yep it is.

So I am tossing up whether to take the acoustic covers off, and leave them off. Perhaps I will on the weekend.

Mind you came out this morning, and looked underneath, and there were no drops on the cement.

Cheers everyone

Matt

[winaje]

Thanks Strangy and Muppet!!

I still have the acoustic cover on, and had a look at how badly infused it was with diesel near the FPR, and yep it is.

So I am tossing up whether to take the acoustic covers off, and leave them off. Perhaps I will on the weekend.

Mind you came out this morning, and looked underneath, and there were no drops on the cement.

Cheers everyone

Matt

Take the covers off and store them including the bolts. That way you can see things a lot easier. Plus you'll have them off more than on, so just leave them off and save the time, lol