Fridgies??? Fixing Domestic AC unit to slab...

[isuzurover]

We had 2 split system AC units installed today. I laid a slab for them beforehand as the ground was sloping.

I just noticed the 2 outside units are just sitting on the slab on small strips of rubber. Surely they should be bolted down?

The manual is a bit vague...
http://www.mitsubishielectric.com.au/assets/LEG/JG79A152H03.pdf

[d2dave]

I always bolt mine down, but I have seen many that aren't, and I don't think that it is mandatory. Reading your instructions it says only when mounted up high.

[scarry]

Anything with cables going to it should be mounted firmly down.

Sure the pipework should stop it moving,but i have seen many twist around on the pipework,if you know what i mean.

We always bolt them down,or sometimes use knock ins.

Also must have corro on the orange circular cable as it has NO UV protection,which is another thing many don't do.

[V8Ian]

I'm no fridgie but it doesn't seem at all vague, nail it down.

[digger]

Have a look at this page.... is a company page and 1/2 way down a unit that was insecure....

How Not to install A Air Conditioner wall of Shame (http://airfridgeaust.com.au/How%20Not%20to%20Install%20a%20Air%20conditioner.h tm)


I can help you install the unit properly... here is some of my previous work...

I made this aircon myself, true!! You'd never be able to tell hey....
66862


Here is a unit I installed for someone... I dont think they need to be bolted down..
66863

cheers - no need for thanks, Im here to help!
Digger

[rick130]

I always use Ramset nylon knock ins and stainless mudguard washers, or you can use small masonry anchors and I don't use waffle/vibration pad as we used to in the old days, most all decent modern units don't need it, they are quiet and smooth in operation.

I don't use corrugated conduit anymore for the cables including the circular 4 core flex, I most always the old style flex conduit as the corro is poor long term with UV exposure too.

Also make sure the penetrations are sealed internally and externally, stops vermin using the pipework as a highway. ;)
Most installers don't bother doing that either, unfortunately. Mice love to make a mess inside the head unit, destroying boards and motors with urine and chewing through wires......

[V8Ian]

Geez Digger, there're just no ends to your talents are there? :p

[digger]

Geez Digger, there're just no ends to your talents are there? :p

I'd need a bigger radiator and a couple of fans to make one for a big fella like you... :) (for extra cooling you can put ice cubes in top...another top tip from "Dr Digger".... :o:p

[modman]

Ben,
I always use a rubber spacer of some type with long tappets/Nylon knockins
I have lots of large rubber washers (like 80s front shock bushes but double the thickness)
Stacked waffle pad squares does the same.
You want the unit off the ground for drainage and to stop rust. I like a clear 30 mm. Most condensors these days are pressed punched and poorly painted.
Any large units cop dynabolts and strapping depending on location and height.
I consider it rough not to fix down, it's as bad as only using wall mates only to fix the head to plaster..........
Dc

[isuzurover]

Thanks for all the replies. I have told the supplier they either need to come back and fix them down or I will do it and deduct my labour from the final payment.

The installer was a bit of an idiot. Fixed the first indoor unit 0.5" out of square using an 8" plastic level. I needed to get my level and show him it was out, and he then needed to use my level to fix the first one and then fit the 2nd.

I should also deduct level hire from the final payment :D

[scarry]

Carrying on from what Rick has said,vermin are the biggest issue with these types of A/C units(apart from installers who have no idea).

Depending on the brand,the indoor is often difficult to seal.

What we have been using lately is steel wool jammed in any holes in the outdoor including the drain hole underneath.Use silicone to hold it in.Also remove the top and side panels and coat inside with lanolin or fisholene,being careful to keep it away from and components in the unit.

Rats and mice can't get through the steel wool,and geckos,ants,etc don't like anything sticky.

Steel wool is available from Bunnings,and although not that pretty,does the job well

[lewy]

do you have to be a fridge[trades qualified]to install air cons.

[rick130]

do you have to be a fridge[trades qualified]to install air cons.


Split systems need a Federal Split System Installers licence at a minimum.

[scarry]

In Qld the license is called 'throw it in, grab the cash, then do the Harold Holt'

Came across one this week where they had actually used silicone on the flares to help them seal:mad:

[modman]

We don't seem to have the vermin problem in Vic metro
The vermin I encounter are some of they people I install for......
Some peeps don't undertake I need to set the head perfectly level because there is a drip tray leading to a drain
When the cornice is out of whack my gear looks crook, so first time up the ladder I take te level, check cornice or ceiling levellness and explain to the client if necessary .
If the unit can plug in technically it doesn't need to be installed by a licensed electrician (in Vic) but there is warranty considerations
All 'split' aircons (containing refrigerant have to be installed by a licensed person (sparky or plumber or anyone holding the appropriate ticket)
It works well for sparkies because they can get the 'wall hung split licence' but plumbers can't get an electrical license.
Dc

[isuzurover]

Well I finally got the fridgie to come back... He installed knock-ins on the front feet of the two units, and was all packed up and about to leave when I noticed nothing on the back.

His response when queried:
"my drill won't fit"

Eventually he said he needed to go to Bunnings and "buy a bit for his other [cordless] drill"

All done now, but if anyone in Perth wants to know a company to avoid, feel free to PM me.