what too look for??

[IamKONG]

Hi guys n gals
How are we hope all doing well
Ive decided to take the plunge and get myself a rangerover
Ive owned disco td5 before but rangies are bit new to me

Looking at one from 1995 got 290000kms on clock has been well looked after with servicing ect. And asking 5k for it
Just curious as too what else I should look for ive read various reviews but thought as the question to the experts

Thanx for any assistance
Cheers

[mtb_gary]

IamKong

A few items specific to p38a to check out along with the usual 2nd hand car routine. This was taken straight from RangeRovers.net

ITEMS TO INSPECT PRIOR TO PURCHASE

The Mark II/P38 models are just as subject to leaks as the Classic models. Coolant leaks are not uncommon, including thermostat housing, hose leaks. Head gasket leaks seem to be especially common on the later model years. Popular oil leak points include the crankcase pan and the pinion seals. There were several recall campaigns on the earlier models, including one to address coolant leak problems; make sure the work was done. See if the Message Center indicates any faults when you turn on the ignition; this gives a good indication as to whether all the electrical and electronic features are operating. Make sure all the electric door locks work. Check the function of the air suspension (see above) and climate control. For the latter, just punch the "Auto" button and set the desired temperature, making sure the system heats or cools properly. Check out the items mentioned in the Common Issues and Repairs section.

THE TEST DRIVE

The Mark II/P38 should feel tight and car-like to drive, with reduced body roll, and virtually none of the clonking, slop and gear noise associated with earlier models. Steering should be precise and the car should track straight. Transmission shifts should be very smooth. Engaging "sport" mode by pressing the button next to the shifter should make the tranny stay in its lower ranges longer and shift down more readily. The torque converter lockup is electronically controlled and can tend to hunt to and fro a bit on hills, giving the impression of frequent gear changing. To test the transfer case, stop, select neutral, move the shifter across to the low range neutral position, wait 'til the beeps and flashing lights stop, then select the desired gear ratio. To test the climate control, just punch the big "auto" button and set the desired temperature.

Air Suspension: To test the air suspension, you need to know that it will only respond to commands if the engine is running, all doors and the tailgate are closed, and your foot is off the brake. In Park, you should be able to raise and lower it over the full range from "access" to "high" settings. In motion, if the "inhibit" switch (to the right of the height control switch) is off, the suspension should stay in standard profile until you exceed 50 mph for about 30 seconds, then it should lower itself to "low" profile. When you slow down below 35 for about 30 seconds it should revert to "standard". Below 35 mph you should also be able to select "high" profile.

Good luck with the searching

Gary

[finallyrangie]

I would suggest you also make sure the heater pipes are connected in the engine bay and check the carpets in the drivers side foot well, if they are damp you may need O rings, $12 in parts but 3 hours of your life you can never get back. Also the climate control, try every setting on both heat and cool, should give you an idea if all the blend motors are working, otherwise Garys post pretty much covered it.

Enjoy

[IamKONG]

Thanx heaps for advice much appreciated
Have taken all on board and told my mechanic aswell so he knows what to have good look for when checking out the car

How are they for modifications like with lift kits is it limited and for engine power improvement is it worth doing for the gains.

[rc42]

The P38 is about the least supported in terms of commercial add-on products of any 4x4.

There are very few suppliers of front and rear bars and rock sliders/steps so many have to get custom fabrication done.
There's no real snorkel option available yet (Watch the Lucky8 thread though as something may be coming soon)
There are no lift kits that work with EAS (again, see the DIY thread in this forum), you can convert to springs but lifts available are small.

There are engine power options available but the cooling system on the V8 is already inadequate and the axle half-shafts and CVs are not really strong enough to cope with more power or larger tyres. HD rear shafts are available but there's nothing for the front CVs.

Ashcroft make a torque biasing diff that can be fitted front and rear that is reported to work really well with the traction control system (especially the 4 wheel system on the later P38 model), fully lockable diffs are also available but carry spare shafts and CVs if you fit them.


It all makes you wonder why we spend so much time and money on these beasts, then you drive it and you remember......

[mtb_gary]

The P38 is about the least supported in terms of commercial add-on products of any 4x4.

There are very few suppliers of front and rear bars and rock sliders/steps so many have to get custom fabrication done.
There's no real snorkel option available yet (Watch the Lucky8 thread though as something may be coming soon)
There are no lift kits that work with EAS (again, see the DIY thread in this forum), you can convert to springs but lifts available are small.

There are engine power options available but the cooling system on the V8 is already inadequate and the axle half-shafts and CVs are not really strong enough to cope with more power or larger tyres. HD rear shafts are available but there's nothing for the front CVs.

Ashcroft make a torque biasing diff that can be fitted front and rear that is reported to work really well with the traction control system (especially the 4 wheel system on the later P38 model), fully lockable diffs are also available but carry spare shafts and CVs if you fit them.


It all makes you wonder why we spend so much time and money on these beasts, then you drive it and you remember......

Nicely put ;)

Gary

[33chinacars]

Check all the usual things . Make sure all electrics are working as well as the air suspension. Drive a few different ones to see what is " normal". Before I bought my P38 only drove 2 . Second one I drove was totally different to the first . Not that I would have said anything wrong but just so much better.

Good luck . Don't drive a P38 unless your going to buy as you will be hooked. I was.

Gary

[TheTree]

It all makes you wonder why we spend so much time and money on these beasts, then you drive it and you remember......

Amen to that :p

[TheTree]

Hi

If you have a good service history and the car has been looked after, then that is the optimal situation.

Despite lacking some after market bits and having a few idiosyncrasies they are still as tough as nails and perform very well offroad.

Steve

[Hoges]

Might want to check this out newrremedies (http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.html) the list is long...but it doesn't apply to every vehicle manufactured (only sometimes:angel:) and for every bug, there is generally a DIY fix for a fraction of the "PAYG" work$hop charge. Seriously, I suggest you spend a couple of hours looking through this reference and get a good idea of where things are at....

You may read in other threads that the P38a quickly becomes an affliction/addiction...sad but true:twisted:

[poleonpom]

If I were you I'd be looking for a new optician (rose colouring specialty) and a good psychiatrist

[RR P38]

Dont be put of by the pre 99 model.....in my opinion.
Just take a look under the bonnet of the post and pre 99 and you will see the earlier models are much easier to work on.
Having just acquired an L322 to replace my 95 P38 I can tell you all the 95 is WAY way easier to work on than either of the other 2 models.
Im assuming here that you are working on things your self here.
Parts are pretty cheap and readily available for the P38.
As far as im concerned the P38 when maintained is a reliable well capable vehicle, you can pick them up cheap, for what they are.
Set your self a budget of $1500 minimum a year for maintainance, this is if its to be a daily driver.
Yes they are a labour of love and love it you must.

[DT-P38]

Just use your head, be patient and by the best one you can afford. If you don't like (or can't be bothered with) it after the first few months get rid of it. More likely scenario is you will become a regular here and learn more about your P38 than you have known about any other machine (BTW, never refer to one as a machine within ear shot).

[IamKONG]

Thanx heaps for all the input
I have made up a list of things to look for and given them to my mechanic when goes and checks it out for me causebim currently working away.
Hopefully its all in good order and ill be flying home to new toy
Thanx once again

[wayneg]

If this is the car for sale at a dealers in Bayswater, advertised on gumtree it has been up for sale for quite a long time. Thats not necessary bad but gives power to negotiate. There is nothing to say if the air suspension has been removed or not. If it has deal down. If its still on air check the bags for wear / leaks. Go see it early unannounced to see if it has settled overnight. Dont listen to flannel that " these sell quick" I recon Its been there a couple of months

[IamKONG]

Well the car is a dud
Water pump gone and water in the oil apparently
So think give it a miss ahah
Oh well guess ill keep hunting
Thanx for all the advice

[DT-P38]

Send a PM to RR P38 and see if he wants to part with his 38... he has just jumped into a later model Rangie so his could be a goodie to try and get hold of.

[Keithy P38]

His Rangie is already in the marketplace here!

[DT-P38]

Had a look myself last night. Bloody bargain too!

[RR P38]

Im looking at buying a play car as well, its in Melbourne.
I want to drive the car back from Melbourne....if I get it.

I can deliver my old P38 to you.......come and get it.

I really need to get rid of it as I dont have parking space for 3 cars.
If some one come up with $3500 they can have it, the damn thing is worth more than that in parts!

The price makes it sound a lot worse than it is.