Accessory Advice New Defender 110

[Spencer72]

Just bought my new 7 seat Defender 110 (arrives on the 28th). I am hoping to get some advice on the below accessories relevant to my requirements. I have the full family n wife routine, go beach 4WD but not much trail stuff or serious stuff, will be towing camper trailor:

Advice on the following:

1. Towbar
2. Roof rack - bags, surfboards etc
3. Connection port for Engel fridge
4. Rear lights for the roof rack
5. Ladder
6. 16" 'Saw Tooth' desgin black rims

Any additional advice on my new purchase would be greatly appreciated.

[VladTepes]

Comments in red




Advice on the following:

1. Towbar Yep. Hayman Reece style.
2. Roof rack - bags, surfboards etc Plenty of options here how much do you want to spend... a good roof rack which you can attach a good awning to would be ideal
3. Connection port for Engel fridge A relatively easy job, I'd recommend a dual battery system (Traxide Tronics SC-80, = "drivesafe" on this forum) if you are planning to run the fridge for extended periods and not drain your starting battery
4. Rear lights for the roof rack <-- go LED
5. Ladder
6. 16" 'Saw Tooth' design black rims < "Dynamic" or "Kings" make these in 16x7 and 16x8 They are known as a Sunraysia style rim,

Any additional advice on my new purchase would be greatly appreciated.

[Spencer72]

Tks VladTepes. I like the full length contour style roof rack as per photo (the one that dips down at the front.

Also the nudge bar on this vehicle is something I am keen on as well

[Spencer72]

Regarding the wheels these are the type I have been looking at. I nearly fell over when I got the price from Land Rover dealership.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Tks VladTepes. I like the full length contour style roof rack as per photo (the one that dips down at the front. Also the nudge bar on this vehicle is something I am keen on as well

The nudge bar and roofrack in that photo are (I'm 99% sure) genuine LR accessories.

Sent using Forum Runner

[juddy]

The Nudge Bar, comes in 2 versions, winch and non winch as does the Genuine LR bumper.

Other alternatives in the same style are available at less cost.

Those Genuine Defender racks, are IMO well over priced, and do not have a flat surface, with a fixed rail all the way round, not ideal for sliding things on be that a tent, boat, wood etc.

Rear ladders we do a number of different types.

[BilboBoggles]

I have those rims. They are a pain in the arse to keep clean and at that price you feel the need to keep them clean.....

[BilboBoggles]

Did you need to add child restraint point for kids seats?

Window tinting makes the ac work better..

[Spencer72]

Bilbobiggles...yep I need the child restraints. I have been looking into this in depth and it is going to be touch and go.

In WA there is only one engineer who does the CRAB bar. When I contacted them they advised to put the bar in the rear two seats need to be removed and the bolting points welded over to ensure no seats could be returned.

This will defeat the purpose of purchasing a 7 seater so in a bit of a dilemma. I have looked at the interior and read up a few sites and thinking of using the cargo mounts or possibly where the middles seats are secured.

If anyone else has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. I know it might not be fully legal but I have no choice. Saying that, this is not our primary family vehicle as we have another 7 seater.

[Spencer72]

What did you pay for those rims Bilbobiggles? Would you not recommend them?

[Leroy_Riding]

the LR soft A bar is stupid expensive from LR, Juddy sells then, order one form him (winch compatible) and the Mantec Winch bumper, and a set of Mantec Steel top brackets for it. Pretty sure Juddy can get all this for you if you PM him.

as for rear lights, LED is the way, but don't get sucked into the high end LED light rubbish, I have had plenty of sets of LED lights and use them on my Fish tanks and home lighting. just look for LED lights that have a decent diode, and most of all decent optics. you will find the cheap Chinese lights are fine. I am having a mind blank right now but I think its Eurolux that currently have the best wide angle optics for there 10W diodes. there is a shop in NSW/VIC cant remember which called KPD 4x4 who sells some very good lights are very good prices if you wanted to avoid 'cheap Chinese' lights.

Leroy

[BilboBoggles]

Bilbobiggles...yep I need the child restraints. I have been looking into this in depth and it is going to be touch and go.

In WA there is only one engineer who does the CRAB bar. When I contacted them they advised to put the bar in the rear two seats need to be removed and the bolting points welded over to ensure no seats could be returned.

This will defeat the purpose of purchasing a 7 seater so in a bit of a dilemma. I have looked at the interior and read up a few sites and thinking of using the cargo mounts or possibly where the middles seats are secured.

If anyone else has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. I know it might not be fully legal but I have no choice. Saying that, this is not our primary family vehicle as we have another 7 seater.

I had a set of three point bolted into the floor and wheel arches on mine. These were engineer signed off. Best bet would be to find a local engineer who will install them into the back of the seat frames. When I bought my new MY13 defender I was going to get mounting points installed, but the engineering firm I had used for the last 10 years lost their restraint engineer and would not do it any more. There is a local restraint fitter - who would have done the job as described above - ie the restraint clips in the floor and arches - but I decided to like with the foam booster instead.

Don't use the cargo mounts easy to prove it's not legal, my restraint points were mounted next to the cargo mounts. There is a steel cradle there for the rear seats, and that is plenty strong enough. They just used a large steel plate about 50mm to reinforce.

If the kids are old enough, and now mine are, you can find boosters that do not have tethers. Then you don't need restraint points.

[BilboBoggles]

What did you pay for those rims Bilbobiggles? Would you not recommend them?

It came as standard spec on my LE model. They look spectacular when clean and shiny, but awful when dusty. The silver rims don't show dust as much as the black ones. The only reason to get them is because the look awesome. But they don't stay like that for long.

[rijidij]

Another thing to keep in mind about those rims is, the face of the alloy is pretty much flush on the outside so they get scratched easily. They look great, but not the most practical rims for the bush.

Cheers, Murray

[BilboBoggles]

Excellent point there. They will get easily mangled off road. (My other defender with the standard boost alloys has been smashed around off road and no wheel damage yet.)

[VladTepes]

as for rear lights, LED is the way, but don't get sucked into the high end LED light rubbish, I have had plenty of sets of LED lights and use them on my Fish tanks and home lighting. just look for LED lights that have a decent diode, and most of all decent optics. you will find the cheap Chinese lights are fine. I am having a mind blank right now but I think its Eurolux that currently have the best wide angle optics for there 10W diodes. there is a shop in NSW/VIC cant remember which called KPD 4x4 who sells some very good lights are very good prices if you wanted to avoid 'cheap Chinese' lights.
Leroy

Leroy I presume you mean just to replace the bulbs in the existing domes with LED bulbs, as opposed to buying those fancy flat(ish) LED lights (like you see on trucks) ?

I was considering that BUT the domes on mine are faded....

By the time I get new domes itmight approach the cost of 'proper' LED sealed lights anyway....?

[one_iota]

Just a tip on the tow bar:

If the rear fold down step is important (and I find it useful) then I believe that only the genuine Land Rover tow bar will allow you to retain it.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Just a tip on the tow bar: If the rear fold down step is important (and I find it useful) then I believe that only the genuine Land Rover tow bar will allow you to retain it.

I've always found that step to be a PITA, but each to their own. It's a very valid point that Mahn raises.

Jon

Sent using Forum Runner

[JamesB71]

Regarding the wheels these are the type I have been looking at. I nearly fell over when I got the price from Land Rover dealership.

They came already fitted on my new 90 with some horrid MT tyres.

( no offence to anyone who likes alloy wheels and mud terrain tyres - I know you are out there)

I dont much like them..... I would prefer some nice steel rims and some ATs, but I guess they look flash.

[JamesB71]

Actually, youve inspired me to make a decision. I really dont like em so there will be a set for sale with 5,000 kms on them shortly.

:D

[Leroy_Riding]

Leroy I presume you mean just to replace the bulbs in the existing domes with LED bulbs, as opposed to buying those fancy flat(ish) LED lights (like you see on trucks) ?

I was considering that BUT the domes on mine are faded....

By the time I get new domes itmight approach the cost of 'proper' LED sealed lights anyway....?

I was actually referring to the optics on LED light bars, some have a reflector like a halogen globe does for each diode, or some have a glass/perspex dome lense, the lense works better than those with a reflector for the diodes as they are more directional.

I have not had an experience with the LED H4 type globes as a direct replacement for a halogen globe though, certainly wouldn't rule that out s a possibility either but the LED's seem to work better with a lense rather than a reflector

[Loubrey]

Spencer72,

In all honesty I'll stay away from the genuine Land Rover roof rack. It is very expensive for dubious quality.

Visit your local Opposite Lock shop (he's over here in the west Juddy!:D) and have a look at the new Wind Cheetah roof racks from Front Runner. If you are in the northern suburbs I can recommend the one in Wangara.

It will cost you less than the LR one for a significantly better piece of equipment.

Cheers,

Lou

[GlennWA]

Spencer72,

In all honesty I'll stay away from the genuine Land Rover roof rack. It is very expensive for dubious quality.

Visit your local Opposite Lock shop (he's over here in the west Juddy!:D) and have a look at the new Wind Cheetah roof racks from Front Runner. If you are in the northern suburbs I can recommend the one in Wangara.

It will cost you less than the LR one for a significantly better piece of equipment.

Cheers,

Lou


I have a front runner rack and am happy but just be careful of warranty with aftermarket mods. Best bet is to keep mods to a minimum whilst under warranty.

I have had a close call with a warranty claim myself, so be forewarned.

Cheers Glenn

[Loubrey]

Glenn,

Out of interest, what warranty claim was that that might have been affected by an aftermarket roof rack?

It would be labelled an accessory and not a modification...?

Cheers,

Lou

[GlennWA]

Lou PM sent

[n plus one]

Glenn,

Out of interest, what warranty claim was that that might have been affected by an aftermarket roof rack?

It would be labelled an accessory and not a modification...?

Cheers,

Lou

Not speculating on others' warranty issues, but I'd suggest the old 'cracking at the roof joint' would be a classic (though complete BS) potential warranty dodge...

[newhue]

Just bought my new 7 seat Defender 110 (arrives on the 28th). I am hoping to get some advice on the below accessories relevant to my requirements. I have the full family n wife routine, go beach 4WD but not much trail stuff or serious stuff, will be towing camper trailor:

Advice on the following:

1. Towbar Hayman reece type, price up one at local tow bar shop. They will be fitting it anyway, just wont have LR mark up. You would be doing well for
any warraty on a tow bar. Could even look at the wreckers and pay half.
2. Roof rack - bags, surfboards etc plenty of options, If your roof seam does crack LR will use non genuine garb to avoid fixing. But then if the roof rack
flexes a bit your roof seam wont crack. Better ones have long getter supports that run under the legs. Look for racks that that have 4 legs. Then supports that expand
two legs, and then a gap in between the front and rear gutter supports. It system provides broad support but allow for twisting.
3. Connection port for Engel fridge go Anderson, they are fail proof
4. Rear lights for the roof rack consider any potential awning
first, fox wing types can obstruct lights if you want to use them in a static
application. Would reverse lights on the trailer be better.
5. Ladder just check it doesn't go over or around the number
plate. I think ADR rules recon it obstructs the plate so render that type of
ladder illegal. It's only so the Gov cant take clear pictures of you.
6. 16" 'Saw Tooth' desgin black rims driving in sand wont
bother them, as mentioned gutters will.

Any additional advice on my new purchase would be greatly appreciated.
spend the money on a better stereo instead of the wheels.

[rar110]

I saw some good looking aftermarket steel rims at MR Automotive 16x7 for $125.

I like the Hannibal, wind cheetah & patriot racks.

I like the Hannibal awning. Fox wing is also great just takes longer to set up & pack away. An awning is pretty important I think.

The Dollium kitchen bench (without sink) and under rack slide storage works great.

A bar and side steps with side rails for protection when doing bush work.

A good capacity/quality compressor that will inflate tyres quickly. I have an ARB which works great especially compared to a cheepy I endured for years.

[Spencer72]

Thanks for all the advice, you guys are awesome, keep the suggestions coming, especially on the WA point of contacts.

[Brad H]

Hi,

I fitted a Land Rover spec heavy duty tow bar (put on by the dealer). The 110 has a maximum ball weight of 150Kg, but with the LR tow bar it is supposedly increased to 250Kg (according to LR Australia). Check this out if you go with any other brand. Your camper may not have this ball weight but it gives you options for later.

I had and Anderson plug wired into the tow bar and also into the back of the 110 (near the left speaker). This gives me the option to plug things in at the bar (camper for charging batteries, air compressor etc) and internally. I have a anderson plug wired to a 12 volt connection for things like Fridges. I also have a red arc isolation switch to protect the battery.

Cheers Brad:)

[carlschmid2002]

Another thing to keep in mind about those rims is, the face of the alloy is pretty much flush on the outside so they get scratched easily. They look great, but not the most practical rims for the bush.

Cheers, Murray

Agree, Ihave them and have had to get them repaired.

[carlschmid2002]

I have the original tow bar. When it comes to roof racks get a Hannibal. Juddy sells them. I bought a Windcheater but the box section is not as strong. As far as bull bars go it depends on whether you get the LE or standard Defender as to what will fit. If you want real protection get ARB, if you want a winch bar get a tubular bar from Mulgo.

[Spencer72]

Sold on not getting rims. Re towbar I visited Opposite Lock who were really helpful n told me that I would have to get an ecu with hayman reece setup. Is that standard for all t bar setups?

Re roof racks they were suggesting the rola roof rack 4runner over wind cheerah. Cheaper n mods cheaper n talk about welds difference. Whats thoughts on that

[Spencer72]

Re window tinting my tinter guy suggests 20% on rear area n 35% on 2 front side windows. Thoughts?

[Leroy_Riding]

Sold on not getting rims. Re towbar I visited Opposite Lock who were really helpful n told me that I would have to get an ecu with hayman reece setup. Is that standard for all t bar setups?

Re roof racks they were suggesting the rola roof rack 4runner over wind cheerah. Cheaper n mods cheaper n talk about welds difference. Whats thoughts on that

a new ECU? for a tow bar? sounds like they have no clue. on some cars yes/maybe on a defender no. you can order a plug and play cable online that plugs into a 'hidden' plug in the rear drivers side wheel arch and you are done!
(hidden plug is behind a plastic 'flap' up near the tail lights on the inside of the wheel arch)

or you can cut the weird hard to find connector of and fit your own and wire it. it takes about 15 mins if you are savy with cabling probably an hour tops if you have not done it before. no special ecu or anything.

go buy a OEM towbar and fit it yourself, if you get stuck with the wiring I am sure most people on this forum will be willing to help.

Leroy

[Loubrey]

a new ECU? for a tow bar? sounds like they have no clue. on some cars yes/maybe on a defender no. you can order a plug and play cable online that plugs into a 'hidden' plug in the rear drivers side wheel arch and you are done!
(hidden plug is behind a plastic 'flap' up near the tail lights on the inside of the wheel arch)

or you can cut the weird hard to find connector of and fit your own and wire it. it takes about 15 mins if you are savy with cabling probably an hour tops if you have not done it before. no special ecu or anything.

go buy a OEM towbar and fit it yourself, if you get stuck with the wiring I am sure most people on this forum will be willing to help.

Leroy

I agree with Leroy. Take a drive to Barbagallo's (Osborne Park) and go into the spares counter round the back next to the Ferrari show room (don't ask the LR sales guys about spares or even directions there…). You will most probably be pleasantly surprised at how little it costs when you ask yourself (OEM tow bar and loom).

It appears that the dealer actually puts markup on the spares counter mark up…

Mike at OL Wangara fitted mine for me after I bought it as I was doing FIFO at the time and didn't get a chance to do it myself. The ECU thing sounds a bit strange...

Cheers,

Lou