View Full Version : RRC Brakes

4th December 2003, 06:34 PM
Quick question.. The rangy goes in for it's roadworthy on monday, but I'm still a bit dicey about the brakes. They do work, and will pull me up, but need a fair bit of effort to do so. It's a 78/79 2 door rangy.

Pads seem OK, no obvious leaks in the system, pedal doesn't feel spongy (so I'm assuming they've been bled right).

As the rangy's been sitting for quite a while, I'm wondering if it's just a matter of giving them a decent workout to get them working properly again, so I'm off for a run around to give them a workout.

Any other ideas would be gratefully appreciated (I'll do the other ideas over the weekend)

Thanks all!


5th December 2003, 08:43 AM
how old is the fluid???

5th December 2003, 10:14 AM
Hmm.. Good point.. I know *some* of the fluid is less than a week old (top up time!), but I have no idea how old the rest of it is. I'll do a fluid change and see if that helps.

After the hoot around last night, they seem a bit better, but still not up to what I'd expect.

That makes rear wheel bearings and brakes to be done on the weekend. Buggrit - I was hoping to relax this weekend!

9th December 2003, 07:26 AM
if theyve been sitting around then water can find its way into fluid but this will only affect breaking if it boils ie pedal will sink quick.

Probably got rust on surface of disks which will then of been ground into pads.

Take off pads and give them a figure of 8 rub on some sandpaper.
Go for a easy drive then give them some hard braking and allow to cool off whilst driving.


10th December 2003, 08:33 AM
If the brakes actually pull you up but need a LOT of peddle pressure to do so, then I suspect that the brake booster is having some issues. If the car has been sitting for a while, look at vacuum tube from inlet manifold for cracks, especially around the fittings at each end. Next look at the One way plug that will fit into the booster from the vacuum line. This is fitted into a rubber grommet and this also can harden and cause a vacuum leak. No vacuum or a reduction in vacuum to the booster will result in a very hard pedal and extreme pressure to operate. Quickest test for the booster is to have engine off, pump brake pedal to release any remaining vacuum in booster, put foot on brake pedal with firm pressure, start engine. As engine starts, the pedal should sink down a bit, this is normal. If pedal does not move then booster operation is the problem. Check the above and if that is all OK then booster will need overhaul.