Disconnecting the battery

[intheozone]

Hi all.

Advice and some help if you can??

Roxy II has been running pretty rough and drinking lots of fuel. I have cleaned the throttle body, run her on a engine cleaning additive and used some MAF cleaner to clean the MAF sensor.

Today I went out to buy some new spark plugs and after ummming and aghhhing I paid a small fortune for iridium NGK BPR5EIX spark plugs as I have been told they are better than the Champion plugs recommended in the RAVE.

So I followed recommended procedure and disconnected the negative terminal of the battery. Changed the plugs and then reconnected it all.

Now the dash info centre is telling me all the windows and sunroof are "not set"

Engine is still running a bit rougher than I would like but I have not road tested it yet. There is quite a smell of fuel particularly on start up and as the engine is revved fluid (I think water) sprinkles out if the exhaust.

I don't have a reset tool for the computer. Is there anything else I can do to stop the errors and what else do I need to change to get the engine to run better?

Thanks

Steve

[mtb_gary]

No tools or equipment necessary. Lower and close each window using the switches on the console. As each one goes through the cycle a message will appear indicating it has been set. Same for the sunroof. As for the radio you just need to enter your 4 digit password. Then reset all the stored radio stations.

Gary

[benji]

Open the windows all the way and hold the button down an extra second, then close the windows and hold the button for a second once closed, you dash should say window set. You can set more than one window at a time too.

Open the sunroof, close it, tilt it open, and tilt it closed, it'll say sunroof set.

What colour were the old plugs, black?

You beat me too it!

[mtb_gary]

Open the windows all the way and hold the button down an extra second, then close the windows and hold the button for a second once closed, you dash should say window set. You can set more than one window at a time too.

Open the sunroof, close it, tilt it open, and tilt it closed, it'll say sunroof set.

What colour were the old plugs, black?

You beat me too it!

Good timing - you've got to be quick 'round here :D

Gary

[intheozone]

Thank you Gary, However, no luck... also I have noticed that my key fob is no longer synced don't want to get locked out of the car now:nazilock:

Arghhhhhh

[mtb_gary]

Thank you Gary, However, no luck... also I have noticed that my key fob is no longer synced don't want to get locked out of the car now:nazilock:

Arghhhhhh

Have you tried putting the key in the ignition. The some p38's had easy sync which is just to put the key in the ignition switch...the Coil in the ignition barrell excites the fob and the fob sends a signal to the RF receiver, the BeCM then issues a new sync code back to the key....


There was also a more bizarre method on later models that involved putting the key in the door lock, turn the key to lock the door then push the lock on the remote. Then turn the key to unlock the door and then push the unlock button on the remote (I think someone in R&D had watched too many Get Smart series). I suspect once the key is re-synched the windows and sunroof will be able to be reset.

Wait, there's more...if you still can't synch check out this link - even more options :o

Good luck

Gary

[Scouse]

I just need to lock the door with the key, hold it in the locked position & press the lock button on the remote.

[intheozone]

Still no luck....

I have been reading lots of "helpful" hints and all sorts of codes and strange landrover handshakes (turning the key in the ignition) no help so far....

Still ready to try more methods.

Windows still not set Have not test driven the car and my Mrs. has her BMW Z4 blocking the drive. At least the key will start the engine. ( don't know why i needed to say she had a BMW Z4 ????? ) doh done it again.:o

:angrylock:


Arghhhh

[RR P38]

Key in door lock, turn it too lock, hold it there and press the lock button on the remote, now unlock the door hold it in the unlock position and press open.
You should be holding the remote open/close button for a few seconds in each position.
Failing that disconnect the sodding antenna/remote, for the central locking and just use the key like in the old days.
Your battery will live a lot longer as well.
Rough running, get you fuel pressure checked that way you can discount fuel pump or most likely a blocked fuel filter, then I would be looking at the stepper motor.
Coil pack is next, leads, you are onto the plugs it seems.
Fuel injectors, unlikely as far as im concerned.

[intheozone]

Thanks RRP38 for the information about the rough running as I get more money I will do more trouble shooting.

As for the key unfortunately it still won't work. :(

[RR P38]

Thanks RRP38 for the information about the rough running as I get more money I will do more trouble shooting.

As for the key unfortunately it still won't work. :(

Silly question, the red light comes on when you push the fob button?
(battery in fob?)

[intheozone]

Yes light comes on on both fob1 and fob2

[intheozone]

Would getting a fault mate or similar help?

[mtb_gary]

Unlikely. Do both keys fail to sync?

I'm not sure about other p38ers but I have had my battery disconnected numerous times and never had the re-sync problems.

I did at one stage have a low battery in the remote, the only way I could get into the car was to hold the fob close by the receiver (near the petrol filler cap), it could be worth a try?

Gary

[Keithy P38]

What year is your Rangie?

I had to sync my second fob before my recent cape York trip (Bosch HSE) and the ol' key in the door, turn to lock, press lock on fob, released lock button, turn to unlock, hold lock button worked for me first go.

I'd never used my second fob before then, still haven't needed to!

As for disconnecting the battery, same, I normally start with the drivers window down (unless I plan on leaving the battery disconnected overnight), car unlocked. Have never needed to re-sync when the terminals get put back on.

Cheers
Keithy

[intheozone]

I am surprised at the result myself.

The car was unlocked and the battery was disconnected for a maximum of 20 mins. Whilst changing the plugs.

The beeping with all the window and sunroof faults is annoying me now.

I can live with having to use a key the old fashioned way although I would prefer the remote.

I have tried all the ways possible to re sync. I might get a fault mate or similar to see all the other errors the car has. What is the best brand and how much should I expect to pay?

[intheozone]

Sorry the car is a 2001 THOR 4.6 HSE

[Keithy P38]

That's strange hey!

I wonder if one of your battery terminals is a bit loose? Normally a healthy P38 will only become a problem child if a battery terminal is loose or the voltage is low!

Was your key out of the ignition when you disconnected the battery?

[mtb_gary]

It might be worth disconnecting the battery again for 15 mins or so then reconnect, a bit like giving a computer a reboot

Gary

[intheozone]

Thank you for all the help.

Seems like many p38s Roxy II has her own personality. After locking the car with the key as the fobs were not working. I then (a few hours later) unlocked the car with the key.... As I opened the door the alarm went off and I thought "oh no this is not good" but I then randomly pushed buttons on the fob and both fobs now work!

Another plus is all the windows except the passenger side front are now set.

She is also running better but still occasionally miss fires with the new spark plugs.

[rc42]

I found that some of the windows (especially the sunroof for me) will not reset unless you do the double press on the down button to let it fully open itself and then double press up to fully close itself, also its best to do one window at a time.

I was given this advice for battery disconnection and its always worked for me with no problems:

"When you disconnect the battery its best to turn ignition on and off, then disconnect within 17 seconds. It tells the BECM that you are doing something legit. Then make sure the key is in position II and the doors are open when you reconnect the (charged) battery"

[glenhendry]

You need to see some real time values on the engine ECU. Use an ODB adaptor and Torque on android (or just a generic code scanner that can do real time values), what are your long term fuel trims on both banks? What are your O2 sensor min and max values (should be 0.1 and 0.9 after a short time).

Misfire could be inlet airleak, or exhaust air leak, either way you need to start with ecu fault codes and fuel trims. Does it smell rich? Does it ping or hunt or knock? Is it better at idle than revving?

An easy way to test fuel pressure is to get a $2 handheld (palm sized) tyre air pressure guage and push it onto the schraider valve on the fuel rail near the coil packs (for Thor). It may not give you perfect fuel pressure reading, but if it quickly hits 50psi, you can rule it out as a cause.

Air leaks can be found by carefully spraying ethonol? (start ya bastard) on all air inlet joins (after the MAF) and also on the inlet manifold gaskets and listening for rev changes.