Any coolroom builders here ??

[goingbush]

I'm building a box out of 50mm Expanded Polystyrene Sandwich panels on the back of my truck.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/182.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/183.jpg

I cant find any info on the internet about how to hang a door on EPS panels.

Just want to see if anyone has a better idea about hinging the side door .
(There is no door on the back)

I have some door jamb extrusion with seal to run around the entry , and will run regular c-chanel around the door.

If I just rivet hinges to panels / extrusion its not going to be long before it falls apart. I'm thinking I could remove some foam from the jamb area and infill with a length of wood then screw or bolt the hinges right thru the panels / extrusions so that the wood spreads the load.

will use the same idea on the latch side.

any better ideas ??

As to weather using this stuff is a stupid idea from the outset, ... well I'll soon find out !!


thanks ...Don

[Vern]

Generally coolroom doors have a top and bottom pivot point, you would be better with an insert door like used in fibre glass caravans, cut the hole and sikaflex it in.
Dometic might make something to suit.

[rick130]

Don, it depends on the panel manufacturer, but for a swing door often a rectangular box section is run down the length of the hinge side with through nylon bolts right through the panel and often a stiffening piece riveted on the inside (nylon is used as a thermal break, you could use gal brooker rod or bolts instead)
How far you go with your strengthening all depends on the weight of the door too, and the average coolroom isn't pounded over outback roads either :D

[spudboy]

Hi Don,

The people building my camper (using the same sort of panels as you are) don't use the body sheets for doors. They make up a steel frame with 3 hinges on one side, and then layer a 3mm sheet of white fiberglass onto the steel frame.

I think they fit the locks/handles, fill the space with insulation and then seal the internal side with another fibreglass sheet - but we haven't got that far so not 100% sure of that.

That way, they can install a 3 way locking handle on it (catches in the middle and top and bottom) and it is structural in its own right.

Also, they put in a slight "bow" into the frame, so that the top and bottom touch first, and the door lock pulls the middle in when shut, so the whole thing is slightly stressed. Helps to seal out the dust apparently....

HTH
David

[Kev the Fridgy]

We built a camper box on an MQ Patrol years ago, we inserted a 50mm RHS frame, recessed into the panel to cope with the additional stresses found when bouncing around tracks etc.... we had fitted captive nuts to the inside of the RHS which allowed us to bolt the hinges on, a bit of mucking around but it never moved out of square

[Don 130]

Have a look here,

Caravan Doors, Boots & Parts | Shop Online CaravansPlus (http://caravansplus.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=986_61)

http://www.awardrv.com.au/dloads/pdf/productpdf_subcatid8.pdf (page 173)

As has been said, you might be better off to cut one into a panel. That way, you can also have a screen door, openable window etc.
Don.

[spudboy]

If you are going to get a pre-built door, then you'll find most are horribly flimsy.

The best one I found in my research (and actually lookingn at one in the flesh) was called a RoamSafe door. It has a stainless mesh that is hard to cut (like Amplimesh). The only negative is that the top corners are plastic, and I still wouldn't qualify it as a heavy duty door - just better than all the rest:

http://www.roamsafe.com.au/files/cache/91ca7e582e77ff05bf1a3a5782deb1be_f66.png

RV Safety Door Accessory RV's Motorhomes Queensland Australia (http://www.roamsafe.com.au/)

[gavinwibrow]

If you are not already committed to a swing door, what about a slider? Much easider to hang (nylon bolts etc on the top slide rail) and far less strain than hinges. Also easier to adjust for cold retention/dush exclusion. Thats why many cool rooms use them rather than hinged versions.

[goingbush]

Thanks to everyone, some great tips and I'm more confident that I can get this to work now. Too late for a 3rd party door, but the box is not high enough for one anyway. Its only 1.5m high, solid roof, not a pop top. Its for storage only not living quarters (we are towing a van)



Don, it depends on the panel manufacturer, but for a swing door often a rectangular box section is run down the length of the hinge side with through nylon bolts right through the panel and often a stiffening piece riveted on the inside (nylon is used as a thermal break, you could use gal brooker rod or bolts instead)
How far you go with your strengthening all depends on the weight of the door too, and the average coolroom isn't pounded over outback roads either :D


We built a camper box on an MQ Patrol years ago, we inserted a 50mm RHS frame, recessed into the panel to cope with the additional stresses found when bouncing around tracks etc.... we had fitted captive nuts to the inside of the RHS which allowed us to bolt the hinges on, a bit of mucking around but it never moved out of square

Thanks Rick & Kev

Will run with this idea. Don't need thermal efficiency , but if I fitted the evap from my Defender in there I could play greensleeves on a horn speaker and do a Mr. Whippy


Re the Sliding door Idea, I didnt really consider this & I understand it would be stronger and there certainly is a lot more sliding door fittings available for coolroom panels but I want a flush door.

[Sitec]

We used to use composite panel on some trucks. It was about 35mm thick... with approx 2mm alli each side of 30mm foam insulation. Where a door was required, the panel was cut out accurately using a jigsaw, the foam then scooped out from where the door slams would be.. A piece of 30mm alli box/rhs is then inserted into the void to act as a frame. This is riveted in place from inside and outside using CSK rivets. A piece of 'Z' section is then glued to the outside surface which has mitred corners to act as a door slam and give a good finish. An interior laminate or carpet is used inside and hides the rivet heads. Once the glue is set, the door (made using the plug that was cut out and capped with a suitable 'C' section) can be swung using alli hinges and a simple foam seal on the inside. Make sure you fit a piece of 'J' gutter above each door and window to help slow water ingress.. Two latches on a door is recommended because (as said before) doors tend to bow. Trucks looking good by the way! You're working at a fair speed!! Cheers.

[goingbush]

Thanks guys, went the DIY door path, pretty solid , the latch engages on the frame adjacent to handle plus I hooked up some cam action 3/8 rods that extend thru the top and bottom of the door jamb, (old school brownbuilt cabinet technology) works a treat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1421.jpg

next question - should I vent the box, its for storage only. Its airtight and as such should be dustproof, you can tell by the suction as I try to pull the door open.

Im thinking a vent to remove condensation etc , venturi vent at the rear & a filtered inlet at the front ?? or leave as is ??