Replacing a sailsbury diff pinion seal

[Didge]

Hi guys, just wondering, on a scale of 1 to 5 how hard it is to replace the pinion seal on a salisbury on a 110. Despite a number of requests from 2 mechanics they haven't returned my phone calls or come as arranged; must be doing it tough in mobile mechanic land.
Are there any hidden traps? eg preload? I had a look in the manual and it refers to some odd load like 43 kgf cm instead of newtons or foot pound.
I assume kgf is kilograms force, is it? and obviously cm is centimetres but that doesn't sound like a lot of force because it would equate to 430Ncm or 43Nm which is next to nothing.
thanks in advance for any advice :)

[Bearman]

Relatively easy to do. As you say, preload is the only thing that you need to watch out for. The easiest way to get this right is to mark the nut and the pinion end with a paint mark and then undo the nut, counting the number of turns to undo it. When you have the new seal and the flange in place tighten the same number of turns and line the paint marks up. If you don't have the later type flange with updated mud slinger now is a good time to put one on. They come in a kit (new flange and seal). Good idea to also put a little sealant under the washer before you tighten the nut.

[Didge]

Many thanks Bearman, I thought I'd read similar advice earlier in the peace but couldn't recall which component was being discussed. Thanks for the tip on the mudslinger and sealant
Cheees gerald

[steveG]

Relatively easy to do. As you say, preload is the only thing that you need to watch out for. The easiest way to get this right is to mark the nut and the pinion end with a paint mark and then undo the nut, counting the number of turns to undo it. When you have the new seal and the flange in place tighten the same number of turns and line the paint marks up. If you don't have the later type flange with updated mud slinger now is a good time to put one on. They come in a kit (new flange and seal). Good idea to also put a little sealant under the washer before you tighten the nut.

I've fitted the later type flange to both the ones I've done, but set up the preload again with the diff center removed (ie just the pinion in place).

Is there any easier way of doing it when replacing the flange?

Also, both the new flanges I fitted had to have the mud slinger "adjusted" slightly so it didn't rub the nose of the housing. Important to make sure its not touching if you're trying to do preloads.

For removing the old seal, a metal tek screw into the seal and a claw hammer to lever it out is the easiest method I've found.

Steve

[Didge]

Thanks Steve :)

[inside]

Check this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/161100-salisbury-pinion-seal.html

[camel_landy]

Yep, mark the position of the nut, crack it and count the number of turns. When tightening, just count the turns and line up the marks. ;)

I also went for the later design of seal... Significantly better than the older style 'leather' seal. Also, make sure the breather isn't blocked.

M

[Didge]

Thanks inside and as isuzutoo-eh says Mr Dromedary for your advice.
Everytime I've had a mechanic do something that I think is a bit tough and I observe them, it always looks so simple (yes, I understand the fact they do it day in and out and are experts in their chosen field helps much like a musician or magician makes it look easier than it is) but I think with your advice I'll have a crack myself - can't be that hard. I just completed a bush repair reinstalling a drivers side rear axle in a D3 that I hadn't witnessed being removed so I reckon my basic mechanical skills should be up to the task for this. Thanks again gents
cheers gerald

[Bushie]

Didge,

You may need a second person to sit with their foot on the brake whilst you crack the pinion nut. I had to do mine with a breaker bar and the jack using the vehicle weight to start the nut undoing.


Martyn

[steveG]

Didge,

You may need a second person to sit with their foot on the brake whilst you crack the pinion nut. I had to do mine with a breaker bar and the jack using the vehicle weight to start the nut undoing.


Martyn

Pretty sure I tried that with mine but there was just too much spring in the axles and I wasn't comfortable about that much stored energy with my head/body close by if something decided to let go.
I made up a crude bar with a couple of bolts that went through the flange holes and rested against the concrete. That removed all the spring and made it much easier to crack the nut. Much easier to tighten up again too.
I think it would be near impossible to crush a new spacer without holding the flange.

Steve

[Zcoota]

Just have a leak on my diff pinion and checking this thread out can someone confirm that my diff pinion is not the mud slinger type? I’m not sure how to pick the difference

[Zcoota]

153366Guess a photo would help ;)

[Bearman]

153366Guess a photo would help ;)

No that is not the later type with the improved mud slinger.

[Zcoota]

No that is not the later type with the improved mud slinger.

Bugger, I thought as much. Thanks for confirming this. I'll track one down before I replace the seal.

I'm guessing this is the right beastie ?

Rear Diff Flange Seal Kit for Land Rover 110/Perentie Salisbury STC445 (https://4wdindustries.com.au/collections/rear-diff/products/rear-diff-flange-seal-kit-for-land-rover-110-perentie-salisbury-stc4457?variant=7022415020078)

[Bearman]

Yes, that is the one.

[Zcoota]

Awesome, thanks Bearman