EAS Fault... woohoo, loving the p38 experience...

[cal415]

Hi All,
On my way to work this morning driving the p38 i got a EAS fault which basically lowered the car almost to the bump stops, when i pulled over the compressor wasnt running at all and the tank was completely empty i was able to pull the line out of the tank with no pressure at all.

I checked all the connectors and tried again and the EAS pump kicked in and the car raised and lowered at the front continually a inch or so but still EAS fault and its sitting almost on bump stops..... Is this because the fault needs clearing or is it something else? Can anyone tell me if a scangauge II can clear EAS faults?? The previous owner has set up a 2nd ARB compressor and fit valves to manually inflate the bags(unfortunately he never gave me the air hose for this) i was going to do this at the servo but do i need to pull the EAS relay/fuse to stop it lowering again? I did a search but there is way to much stuff to search through and i really need to get this moving as i need to get it drivable asap, i limped it to work and really need to drive around other sites but need to drive this car.

Thanks,

[davidsonsm]

Try whipping out the EAS delay timer under the passenger seat. And then pumping the system up manually. That will disable the EAS ECU. It may work to get you mobile again.

If there is a serious leak in the valve block, it will quickly deflate. So you would need to blank off the outlets/inlets to/from the air bags at the valve block.

[rc42]

Hi Cal,

The EAS is just introducing itself to you, you'll get to know each other really well eventually.

The generic OBD code reset tools won't be able to 'talk' with the EAS controller but you can get a cable from eBay and some free software for a laptop that can reset faults, diagnose problems and even reset and recalibrate the sensors.

Range Rover P38 EAS USB Suspension Diagnostic Cable Tool | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-USB-Suspension-Diagnostic-Cable-Tool-/111173661010?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19e2777152)

Range Rover P38a - EAS Unlock Suite (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56)


Another option is the Nanocom Evo which is a great piece of kit to have in your P38 but its not cheap.



Removal of the EAS Delay Timer relay will cut off the control signals to the valve block and all valves will stay closed, if there are no leaks then your airbags will stay where they are.

Manual inflation can be done with a 'T' piece in the 6mm air line from the valve block to the bag, usually with a Schrader valve on the 'T', again if there's a leak this won't help. Another option is to remove the air lines from the valve block and push on a schrader valve to manually inflate the bags, this will bypass the valve bloc completely for that bag.
A short length of 6mm air line with a schrader valve on one end could also be used close to the air bag itself but you'd have to pull out the existing line first.
Be careful pulling any air hose if there's pressure in the system, it drops the bags very fast and you could lose a body part if its trapped between wheel and bodywork.


If the air tank is empty and compressor not running it may be a wiring problem or a compressor fault, if the piston seal is gone or there's a leak the compressor will run but not pressurize the tank till it overheats and then shuts off, it could also be a valve block fault or even a sensor fault, you really need to see the diagnostic output to troubleshoot this.

[TheTree]

Hi Cal,

All good advice here.

From the sounds of it, you may have a suspect valve block which is making the compressor work it's arse off and then the overheat cutoff stops it.

If it stays up with the relay removed and the bypass pumped up, then the valve block is the main suspect for sure.

You may have a hole in a bag as well, does one corner go down faster?

Soapy water in a spray bottle is your friend when looking for leaks around the valve block.

Also check around the drier, and even the connection into the tank under the car.

Good luck
Steve

[Hoges]

Cal.. All excellent advice above: FWIW also: Remedying an external leak on the valve block can sometimes be as simple as reseating the 6mm high pressure nylon tubing. Deflate the system, press on the collet and withdraw the nylon tube. Remove about 5mm from the end. Very important you cut it "square". Then with a pencil sharpener, cut a very slight chamfer on the end of the tube and carefully insert it back into the collet. Push slowly and you should feel resistance against the first o-ring...push through both o-rings and it's seated. If it's still leaking then the o-rings require replacement. There's oodles of info here and on rangerovers.net on refurbing the valve block with new o-rings.

[poleonpom]

If the eas delay timer is removed and all four corners a time are deflating then logic saus it sounds like the exhaust valve isn't seated properly. I'd start there with a bit of soapy water. Also take housing off and squirt around the stem - took me 6 goes to get my block.to work properly - Eas is a bit like manic depression: up one minute, down the next ;-)

[superquag]

"...Eas is a bit like manic depression: up one minute, down the next ;-)...."

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

Been there-Done That...

First thing, get some Schraeder valves and adapters to 6mm airline Plus a length of line. You need a set for each bag. Pull the car's airline-to-each bag out and replace with this cheapie self-rescue. Inflate by whatever tyre pump you've got. Even with a good foot-pump.:twisted:

Second stage is add the T piece, which means it stays connected, and

Third stage is to add a lock-off (inline) tap, so that the self-rescue can isolate each bag from the valvle block, in case the valve block is faulty...

Your cheapest Electronic Diagnostic route is the EAS 'Kicker' from here:-
https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/

Bear in mind that it only does the air suspension. Nothing else.


In the mean time, deflate your tyres down as far as you reckon is safe...and quietly drive home/wherever like that.....:eek:

JYou have my sympathies..... :p

'95 CLASSIC Vogue SE with working EAS...

[MICHELINXMS244]

Range Rover P 38 Suspension Valve Block New | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P-38-Suspension-Valve-Block-New-/321234285635)

If you don't want to refurb the block, how about a new one?

[superquag]

Trust me, you don't want one like this,,,,
95 02 Range Rover P38 Electronic Air Suspension Valve Block Pump Air Ride EAS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-02-Range-Rover-P38-Electronic-Air-Suspension-Valve-Block-Pump-Air-Ride-EAS/261265913311?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D163%26meid%3D2416152208421783072%26pid%3D10 0005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D321234 285635%26#ht_492wt_1266)

- check the co$t of $hipping !:o

[ringo]

The EAS fault was my introduction to the P38. My troubles stemmed from a leaking front air spring and a worn out compressor. I bought a EAS buddy from RSW Range Rover P38a - EAS Buddy V3 USB (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=34) to help with my trouble shooting.

it diagnosis the EAS faults and you can read the list on your computer using a USB cable. It works with Windows and Linux and should do fine on an Apple computer as well.
For me it has paid for itself on several occasions. The last being when the BeMC decided to take a nap after a quick stop and faulted the EAS. It has to do with the colder temps - something else to tinker with... Luckly I keep that thing in glove box so in less than a minute I had it reset and was happily back on the road.

A quick check for the compressor is to remove the air filter and put your hand close to the intake and you should feel a strong vacuum. If not your pump may need a rebuild kit or a replacement. If you need a new one shop around, I found the prices for the OE part to range from $250 - $400+ US.

Hope this helps, even a little.

[cal415]

Thanks for all the info, thought i posted a reply last week but doesnt look like it went up, i ended up pulling the fuse and bypassing the EAS that way, manually inflated using Shraeder valves and got it on the road again, i have also ordered the diagnostic cable and will do a proper repair on it.

I am already very familiar with airbag setups, having played with a few and also having done a full air spring conversion on my 130, i also have lots of airline fittings which makes this easier. But its the first time i have played with a p38 EAS setup, its been interesting and i can see a few things i might try to tweak and change for a few improvements, but i am stuck till i get that cable.

BTW compressor, bags, lines, valve block etc all seem fine, no leaks, so im guess it will probably work after clearing the fault.... well lets hope anyway.

[Keithy P38]

Here's hoping for you mate!

Does that cable allow you to view the fault code or just reset? It might be worth finding out what troubles your EAS brains so you know where to look!

Cheers
Keithy

[cal415]

Cable turned up today, so i will have a play tonight, it should give me the ability to read errors, reset and recalibrate the EAS.

[cal415]

Clearing the faults seems to have worked, its all working well again, i guess i will have to keep an eye on it and keep a laptop handy if it happens again. My Wifes happy though she has her access mode back!

[wayneg]

Clearing the faults seems to have worked, its all working well again, i guess i will have to keep an eye on it and keep a laptop handy if it happens again. My Wifes happy though she has her access mode back!

I have had random eas faults in the past which I put down to electrical interference, Passing the same level crossing would shut it down about 1 in 20 times I passed. Reset and all good. I also get engine disabled if I leave the car locked close to mobile masts and its also happened in an airport.
I never leave home without my netbook, eas cable and EKA code.
Take note.

[cal415]

All fun and games with these things, the EAS has worked flawlessly today, but now my wife is having some cooling issues, getting up to the 100dg mark(after market gauge) when sitting idle, its bloody hot today here so that would no doubt be a factor but i am guessing the viscus fan might need replacing or the radiator might be sludged up.... more fun.

[wayneg]

All fun and games with these things, the EAS has worked flawlessly today, but now my wife is having some cooling issues, getting up to the 100dg mark(after market gauge) when sitting idle, its bloody hot today here so that would no doubt be a factor but i am guessing the viscus fan might need replacing or the radiator might be sludged up.... more fun.

DO NOT LET THE ENGINE OVERHEAT.
The Rads are around $300 on ebay, At least take yours for a flow check, they are quite easy to get out. Also check the small tube from top of rad to expansion tank is not blocked, be careful with the rad outlet, they get very brittle. Whist there get 300mm of hose and extend the expansion tank overflow down away from the fuse box.

[Hoges]

I run the overflow hose into a 150 ml transparent plastic drink bottle...just sits there. If the coolant is at the correct operating level and there's no head gasket leaks, then there hould be no overflow. So far, so good!:D

[flathead steve]

If the cars jigging up and down a bit it could be height sensor's I cooked a compressor this way.

[cal415]

Well this car gets more bizzare all the time, The EAS has been fine, except there was a brief issue were the display reported a EAS fault and all the lights came on, after turning the car off and on its been fine again no need for the cable and laptop.

But... we had some weirdness the other day with the gearbox, it flashed up a transmission fault, i was in the 130 and my wife following in the rangie on our way out to the property, its a fairly rough track with a few little climbs, after this error flashed up she had some trouble accellerating and it wouldnt drive up one of the hills, she changed it into the low range, but it wouldnt pick up low so she went back to high and it was all good again, ive since had it in low without issues.... i seem to have every little gremlin possible in this truck.

[Keithy P38]

When I last had a gearbox fault I found the battery was dying. Usually throws up a few weird faults if you have a battery on the way out...

Cheers
Keithy

[RR P38]

All fun and games with these things, the EAS has worked flawlessly today, but now my wife is having some cooling issues, getting up to the 100dg mark(after market gauge) when sitting idle, its bloody hot today here so that would no doubt be a factor but i am guessing the viscus fan might need replacing or the radiator might be sludged up.... more fun.

That is a normal temp range, Did it come down pretty fast off idle? back down to 95c.
Around 95c id normal with these engines.

As noted though dont let them boil, ie keep all your hoses, water pump, radiator in tip top order. 50/50 coolant.

[cal415]

Keithy, funilly enough i have had some issues with the rear battery, i think the battery has had a hard life and never received full charge as its only getting around 13.8v max from the alternator back there, i will have to check my start battery and alternator voltage out, i figured the low reading was because of the poor setup the previous owner had rigged up for charging the battery, its a shame to as its a decent optima battery and it might be beyond fixable as with even a decent charge from a multistage 20amp charger its struggled to run the little ARB fridge for more then a few hours.

RR p38, yes it comes down to 90-95 as soon as its moving again, which i figured was normal temps.