D2 Wont Start - Can't Pop Hood!

[Discotrip]

Hi,

Today I was going to take the belt off my D2 to find out what the bearing noise issue is. I went to the shop to get a couple of things first and it ran fine.

I did test out the rear suspension raise button (whatever it's called) before setting off, but now on the way back both the rear suspension (with arrow) lights came on the dash while I was driving. I tried to press the button to reset it back to normal but it didn't beep or do anything.

When I got back I turned off the engine and tried to get the suspension lights off with the button. When I went to start it, the engine wouldn't turn.

It sounds like a flat battery, and the engine light stays on the dash. On top of that, I all of a sudden can't pop the hood. The car is unlocked and I still seem to have auxiliary power for the stereo, hazard lights and locks etc.

As for it not starting, a mechanic did supposedly refurbish the alternator with new bearings and such this week and perhaps that's the issue.

Is the engine not turning and the hood release linked? Just seems a bit of a coincidence. Don't know if the rear suspension somehow drained the battery or caused some other issue.

Starting to think of selling this D2 and get a Jeep Cherokee again! Please help asap!

[bee utey]

The bonnet release cable is strictly mechanical, with critical components made of perishable white nylon. To get the bonnet open you have to cut through the plastic pocket under the latch. This can be done either from underneath, or as I did from through the grille. I sharpened a long flat bladed screwdriver into a chisel and cut open the pocket. Then it wasn't hard to manipulate the latch lever from underneath. Fixing the cable required replacement of the said white nylon spacer with a scrap of copper tubing wrapped around the outer cable.

As for the rest of it, well, it is a Land Rover after all. The thrills of driving a brilliant machine designed and built by the Poms.

[Discotrip]

Got my girlfriend to pull the latch while I bounced the bonnet a bit and it popped up. Perhaps it's a stretched cable so need to look at adjusting it and replacing. Thanks for letting me know it's purely mechanical. Now to jump start it and find out what today's issue is.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Got my girlfriend to pull the latch while I bounced the bonnet a bit and it popped up. Perhaps it's a stretched cable so need to look at adjusting it and replacing. Thanks for letting me know it's purely mechanical. Now to jump start it and find out what today's issue is.
The Cables aren't really adjustable, I ignored mine as it was intermittent and on borrowed time . When it did let go whilst trying to get underneath to break the plastic cover I put a hole in the air con condenser. I've been putting it off replacing the condenser but its starting to get hot and I love A/C so that's this weeks job:mad:

[Discotrip]

Yeah, I tried having a look at it yesterday now that the D2 is dead and waiting on a new alternator (haven't ordered yet) and couldn't really see a way of getting to the cable without removing the three rivets.

The odd thing is when the cable is pulled, the catch pulls back fully. With the bonnet closed though it needs a little bounce/push to get it to pop up.

[rangie ute on 38'']

so does the bonnet just need adjusting or lock lubricating, as for the alt sounds like a passion fingers last attempt to fix it. Do it once do it properly
Goodluck

[Discotrip]

Yeah, the mechanic is a tool. The D2 is stuck on the drive now so I think I'll just get an after market one and send the original back to the mechanic to fix properly. I have a feeling he used Holden bearings for it.

[justinc]

if the alt lamp is on with the key off then it has done the rectifier, specifically most likely an exciter diode. the bearing noise you heard then is possibly most likely produced by a failing diode/ rectifier, not a mechanical failure. the battery will drain to earth quite quickly due to this fault. the only economic option is to buy a new alternator in my experience.

jc

[Discotrip]

Hi,

I'm hoping that's the issue. The mechanic is sending over the auto electrician who "serviced" the alternator. He's thinking it could be the regulator too, in which case it's a "coincidence" and we'll have to get a new one. By the sounds of it they just changed the bearings too and left the brushes alone.

Waiting for the electrician to come and diagnose the issue. Personally I think they should fix it on their dime, particularly since I sent it to get the noise diagnosed and $500 later (with an apparently good alternator and new idler pulley) it's still present and now the D2 is dead.

Tempted to get them to fix it, order an aftermarket one and then keep the old one as a spare. Thoughts?

This forum has became invaluable for information on the D2. Hopefully I'll have enough experience by the end of the week to help out on a million issues as well.

[Discotrip]

Turned out it was the 150A Mega fuse that blew. Mechanic is trying to find out why that happened. Recons the alternator is charging so isn't the issue. When I spoke to the auto electrician, he said he changed the bearings but not the bushes as he couldn't find a replacement in Australia.

Do you guys happen to know where I can get a new rectifier and bushes?

[FeatherWeightDriver]

passion fingers

lol

I had to google that one, thankfully I am at home today and not at work otherwise I might have ended up on someone's watch list... :angel:

[clubagreenie]

$400- a bit rich for bearings and as for no bushes from a quick search plus other threads on here I've read brushes are available readily. I'd be making them pay for it all.

[Discotrip]

As it goes, it turned out the mega 150a fuse had blown. Not sure if this was the main cause, or whether it just blew when I jump started it.

The mechanic is having a play with it to see if he can replicate the problem. While he's at it I got him to put a new idler pulley in. He said he did take off the belt and it sounded a lot quieter (still not sure if that's a whole load of bull****), but he's having another look.

So far we have a new main tensioner/pulley, and two new idler pulleys. If he's correct in that the noise didn't come back with the belt off, guess it's the water pump, steering pump, or crankcase pulley?

[clubagreenie]

Must be the week for it. Mine went on the way to pickig up the kids yesterday. Absolutely no cause I can find for it apart from age. Maybe 150 is a time frame for failure.

[Discotrip]

Yeah, might be. I just had the alternator bearings replaced so was certain it was related. Pity it isn't as the mechanic will probably charge me **** loads for the call out now!

[Discotrip]

Still can't pop the hood so doing a lot of experimenting with the spring and stoppers on the side. On the plus side, the left idler pulley was the culprit regarding the engine noise.

[Discotrip]

Regarding the bonnet, I have tried adjusting the spaces on the side, as well as the spring. It doesn't really improve at all. I noticed when my g/f was pulling the catch that if I put pressure on it, it was a little sluggish to move. Considering the pressure from the spring I recon this is the issue.

I tried moving the cable around from the firewall to the catch, but it didn't make any difference. As Rover mentioned, perhaps I need to just replace the spacer, but I've ordered a new cable from Allfourx4.

What's the best way to get to the catch though, should I drill out the three rivets at the top? Is there any way to get to it without destroying the cover so I can put it back in place?

[clubagreenie]

From experience on RRC's if the plates are bolted together to tightly the one that needs to move to release can't slide easily enough or won't slide back to catch if you have it open and won't close. But as you just said I think the D2 is riveted.