Want 35" engineered on my d2 what to look out for

[Steve223]

hello,

After having the 33" engineered now I'm looking to get 35" engineered. my initial discussion with the engineer where good and provided I make and pass another lane change test he is happy to engineer it with the mood below

Ashcroft front CV's axels and ATB
Rear maxi drive Ashcroft air locker
4.1.1 gearing
4" lift
Upgraded drift shaft

Wondering what would be my weakest link now if I put 35" on?

Would be grateful for any input.

Cheers

Steve
Cheers

Steve

[Vern]

I was under the impression 35's can't be engineered anymore.

[BigJon]

hello,

After having the 33" engineered now I'm looking to get 35" engineered. my initial discussion with the engineer where good and provided I make and pass another lane change test he is happy to engineer it with the mood below

Ashcroft front CV's axels and ATB
Rear maxi drive Ashcroft air locker
4.1.1 gearing
4" lift
Upgraded drift shaft

Wondering what would be my weakest link now if I put 35" on?

Would be grateful for any input.

Cheers

Steve
Cheers

Steve


I can understand the gearing change requirement, but why the other stuff?
Does the engineer require brake upgrades?

[rangieman]

hello,

After having the 33" engineered now I'm looking to get 35" engineered. my initial discussion with the engineer where good and provided I make and pass another lane change test he is happy to engineer it with the mood below

Ashcroft front CV's axels and ATB
Rear maxi drive Ashcroft air locker
4.1.1 gearing
4" lift
Upgraded drift shaft

Wondering what would be my weakest link now if I put 35" on?

Would be grateful for any input.

Cheers

Steve
Cheers

Steve

Pegg the diffs sounds like the most logical improvement , Most will say you need a fuse (weak link) :angel: But we all try to build these things bullet proof;)

[Steve223]

have all the things already on the truck just want to see where to improve further, no additional brake test required he was satisfied
with the one we just did but another lane change test will be required

[101RRS]

When all this is finished the engineering will be worth more than the material state of the vehicle.

[winaje]

Don't forget to factor in the cost of a hoist to get in and out of it. I know you're taller than me, but I almost needed a crane even when it was on 33's lol

[Yorkie]

When all this is finished the engineering will be worth more than the material state of the vehicle.

maybe so but steve will have a cool fully unjuneered truck. :cool:

not unlike this fella
http://www.4x4offroads.com/toyota-land-cruiser-australia.html

:)

[MR LR]

When all this is finished the engineering will be worth more than the material state of the vehicle.
Who buys a Land Rover as an investment anyway?

[Scouse]

Wondering what would be my weakest link now if I put 35" on?

I think the weakest link would now be your testicles :wasntme:.

[twr7cx]

What wheels do you intend to use?

What size/width tyres are you intending to use?

315 / 75 R 16 is around 34.6". Can fit on an 8" rim (but 8.5" is recommended).

[LowRanger]

You might need to do a bit more body improvement to fit 35's,and even with 4.11 diffs,if the transfer case is 1.22:1 then it will still be marginal on 35's.

[Steve223]

What wheels do you intend to use?

What size/width tyres are you intending to use?

315 / 75 R 16 is around 34.6". Can fit on an 8" rim (but 8.5" is recommended).

would use the dynamic 16x8, in regards to tyres thinking about Simex Jungle tracker 2 34x11.5 16

[Steve223]

You might need to do a bit more body improvement to fit 35's,and even with 4.11 diffs,if the transfer case is 1.22:1 then it will still be marginal on 35's.

what body improvements did you think of?

apparently 4.11 on a auto is not to bad with 35 would still have the OEM LR wheels with 33" for around town

[twr7cx]

would use the dynamic 16x8

Spoke to Dynamic this morning out of interest and they don't do a +32mm offset wheel. +30mm only - which adds up to +4mm over the allowable increase in wheel track. I imagine with a group purchase of a set quantity of wheels they would probably consider changing. I did suggest to them that given VSB 14 application in most states now it may be of their benefit to start selling wheels that can actually legally be fitted.



what body improvements did you think of?

apparently 4.11 on a auto is not to bad with 35 would still have the OEM LR wheels with 33" for around town

What's the meaning of a body improvement? Body too me seems like the cabin part of the car...

Do you have to have the same ratio as standard in order to have the vehicle engineer approved? What is the correct gearing for 35" to be near standard ratio?

35" on 4.11 gearing would be similar to the gearing of 31" tyres on a standard setup. I drove with 33" on standard for a long time and had no issues.

[Steve223]

I have my 100mm track width increase on front and rear engineered but that's what I thought VSB14 is n effect for years now so you would think wheel manufacturers would catch on to it and produce compliant wheels

I think 4.3.1 is correct gearing for 35"

[TD50WA]

100mm? Are you sure Steve?

Vsb14 allows 50mm, prior to vsb14 it was 25mm, so 100?

That's a hell of a lot of offset, what have you got +7 offset? Nearly a zero offset rim. Standard is +57....that's a change of 2" each side of the car.
Those steel rims in your pictures look like they are about +30, so that would be an offset change of 54mm, ....?
100 would have the tyres sticking out of your flares by 2" each side.

Cheers
Kev

[TD50WA]

I have my 100mm track width increase on front and rear engineered but that's what I thought VSB14 is n effect for years now so you would think wheel manufacturers would catch on to it and produce compliant wheels

I think 4.3.1 is correct gearing for 35"

Zu rims +35
Allied +35 approx
Speedy +35

The above, and others make rims 16x7, 16x8, 17s, 18s........all with the 50mm vsb14 max allowance.....yes for the D2
Kev

[LowRanger]

what body improvements did you think of?

apparently 4.11 on a auto is not to bad with 35 would still have the OEM LR wheels with 33" for around town

I think if you try and fit 35's you will find that they foul the body work somewhere.You will need to fully cycle the suspension with the steering in different positions lock to lock.

[Steve223]

Standard O/E track width front 1540mm I have 1645mm
Standard O/E track width rear 1560 I have 1660mm

At least is what the first engineer in Sydney measured.

As I understand it any engineer can engineer what he deems as safe as long as he can explain why it's engineered this way, it makes sense from a engineering point of view and the car passes break and lane change test. With my 4" lift the track the width increase makes the car more stable and the increased in load is countered by Ashcroft axels and cvs in front and maxi drive in rear which more then compensate any load increase due to offset.

The safety of the car has been demonstrated in a lane change test and break test
which I both past.

[Steve223]

When all this is finished the engineering will be worth more than the material state of the vehicle.

Next week I will actually head of to Shannon's for inspection and to increase insurance value of the car. The engineering itself cost me below 3k so hardly less then the state of the vehicle ;-).

If you mean all parts and labour yes that may already be the case but who cares... I live only once and may as well enjoy it while I can...

[TD50WA]

Next week I will actually head of to Shannon's for inspection and to increase insurance value of the car. The engineering itself cost me below 3k so hardly less then the state of the vehicle ;-).

If you mean all parts and labour yes that may already be the case but who cares... I live only once and may as well enjoy it while I can...

I think most of us spend thousands of dollars on our cars which we will never get back in resale, but DO get back tenfold in enjoyment. Agree totally Steve.
Engineering is just one of those costs that the wise and sensible endure;)

Cheers
Kev

[101RRS]

I guess my basic point was that all this money was spent on getting the truck engineered for 33s and now you want to do all the same again for 35s - why not just do the engineering for 35s in the first place and same a bucket load.

[Steve223]

I guess my basic point was that all this money was spent on getting the truck engineered for 33s and now you want to do all the same again for 35s - why not just do the engineering for 35s in the first place and same a bucket load.

yes you are 100% correct unfortunately at the time I did not know what I know now and wasn't even sure I get the 33" engineered.
It has been a steep learning curve and in hindsight I do thinks differently and would save some cost.

[TerryO]

A wise man once said to me if you mod your vehicle to far then you run the risk of ending up with a vehicle that can easily go places where none of your mates can or will follow.

[101RRS]

yes you are 100% correct unfortunately at the time I did not know what I know now and wasn't even sure I get the 33" engineered.
It has been a steep learning curve and in hindsight I do thinks differently and would save some cost.

Yes hindsight is a wonderful thing. It is a credit to you that you have chosen to go the fully engineered path as most would not have bothered and would be happy to drive around with "illegal" mods. It has been a real learning experience following your progress on your 33" Thread.

Cheers

Garry

[Steve223]

A wise man once said to me if you mod your vehicle to far then you run the risk of ending up with a vehicle that can easily go places where none of your mates can or will follow.

Terry, you are fearless, forcing the D3 up mount walker.... I recon you will follow ;-)

[TerryO]

Nope not with the mighty D3 ...but blowing your doors off with the old Mountain Goat D1 ... well that is a whole different story. ...;)

[Steve223]

get her ready Terry ....

[Steve223]

Greg organised some flairs from a Rubicon and we will try to make them fit over next two weeks or so... that should eliminate all issues of tyres protruding

[Redback]

You'll need to cut the guards to fit 35s, especially the rear guards and rear door as well, Slunnie is the man to speak too regarding cutting the guards.

In the link go to the gallery then DISCOVERY 2 then on the third row you'll find guard cutting

www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers (http://www.slunnie.com/D2.htm)

Baz.

[Steve223]

You'll need to cut the guards to fit 35s, especially the rear guards and rear door as well, Slunnie is the man to speak too regarding cutting the guards.

In the link go to the gallery then DISCOVERY 2 then on the third row you'll find guard cutting

www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers (http://www.slunnie.com/D2.htm)

Baz.

thanks Baz, guards and doors are already cut quite a fair bit with Les Richmond Flairs however need bigger flairs for the 35"s think Wranglers flairs would look quite good and plenty of space then for 35s

[winaje]

Something like this?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1022.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard_pigg/3322614967/)
Slightly modified Discovery 2!! (http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard_pigg/3322614967/) by Dick Pigg (http://www.flickr.com/people/richard_pigg/), on Flickr

[TD50WA]

Something like this?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1022.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard_pigg/3322614967/)
Slightly modified Discovery 2!! (http://www.flickr.com/photos/richard_pigg/3322614967/) by Dick Pigg (http://www.flickr.com/people/richard_pigg/), on Flickr

Whilst mr Piggs d2 is certainly an eye catcher, I don't think I would go that far, but I would love to do an "Icelandic" version, but unfortunately, VSB 14 is so restrictive now that it's no longer possible.....even 35s are very hard because you can only lift 3" to keep within the max overall height change of 6". (35=3" and 3" of lift)
Cheers
Kev

[twr7cx]

even 35s are very hard because you can only lift 3" to keep within the max overall height change of 6". (35=3" and 3" of lift)

You should only need a 3" lift to fit 35" tyres.
As you point out, 35" tyres are a 3" larger radius over the standard 29", giving 3" more ground clearance and pushing upwards a further 3" towards the body.
A 3" suspension lift should even out the 3" increase upwards towards the body.
An aggressive flare setup requiring the guards to be cut (such as Les Richmond Automotives Stage 2) should accommodate the extra width of the larger tyres which catches on the sheetmetal of the guard.

Likewise 33" only requires 2" of suspension lift when fitted with flares and guard cuts.

[gofish]

Something like this ...Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 ''compare standart discovery'' - YouTube (http://youtu.be/ELyWJR3UsAI) ?

[TD50WA]

You should only need a 3" lift to fit 35" tyres.
As you point out, 35" tyres are a 3" larger radius over the standard 29", giving 3" more ground clearance and pushing upwards a further 3" towards the body.
A 3" suspension lift should even out the 3" increase upwards towards the body.
An aggressive flare setup requiring the guards to be cut (such as Les Richmond Automotives Stage 2) should accommodate the extra width of the larger tyres which catches on the sheetmetal of the guard.

Likewise 33" only requires 2" of suspension lift when fitted with flares and guard cuts.

Would 35s not rub somewhere on the inner guards or suspension at full travel with only 3" of lift? Keeping in mind that VSB 14 limits track change to 50mm max, so the 100mm that Steve has is not an option.

Kev

[Steve223]

Would 35s not rub somewhere on the inner guards or suspension at full travel with only 3" of lift? Keeping in mind that VSB 14 limits track change to 50mm max, so the 100mm that Steve has is not an option.

Kev

Why are my100 mm not an option it's engineered, you would need 33 or 35 engineered anyway

[Steve223]

Something like this ...Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 ''compare standart discovery'' - YouTube (http://youtu.be/ELyWJR3UsAI) ?

Love it

[TD50WA]

Why are my100 mm not an option it's engineered, you would need 33 or 35 engineered anyway

VSB14 is very restrictive and maximum track change is 50mm regardless of engineering. That is my info from engineers here in WA.

[Steve223]

VSB14 is very restrictive and maximum track change is 50mm regardless of engineering. That is my info from engineers here in WA.

Yes that's what the first engineer told me as well as they don't want to stick there head out, fact seems to be that a engineer can engineer what he can substantiate and is save. The RTA audited Treeve over some of the cars he engineered however he could proofed the validity and safety in any car he signed off and they are all still legal.

You need a good engineer who understands what he is doing.

The 100 mm track increase makes my car safer then with 50mm and all components are upgraded to accommodate the increase.

[TD50WA]

It used to be that way here in WA before they adopted this NCOP VSB14 too. They still have not even agreed to the combined 50mm lift and 50mm tyre increase without engineering yet like most of the other states that have joined this rubbish NCOP yet, so I'm up against a wall of red tape before I start.

Here, we have to write in for approval to modify listing the changes in detail that we wish to do, the DOT then approves or disapproves your application. If its disapproved, no engineer will even examine your car.

The problem is that if your app is outside of VSB14 guidelines, it will be rejected.

If approved, then you trot off to your engineer of choice and if you pass, you get final approval from DOT.

So in a nutshell, 100mm offset is outside the guidelines and won't even be looked at.

[Steve223]

It used to be that way here in WA before they adopted this NCOP VSB14 too. They still have not even agreed to the combined 50mm lift and 50mm tyre increase without engineering yet like most of the other states that have joined this rubbish NCOP yet, so I'm up against a wall of red tape before I start.

Here, we have to write in for approval to modify listing the changes in detail that we wish to do, the DOT then approves or disapproves your application. If its disapproved, no engineer will even examine your car.

The problem is that if your app is outside of VSB14 guidelines, it will be rejected.

If approved, then you trot off to your engineer of choice and if you pass, you get final approval from DOT.

So in a nutshell, 100mm offset is outside the guidelines and won't even be looked at.

And I was complaining about NSW.....

That's is a pity and not how it works here in NSW (luckily)

I better get my 35" engineered before they change it here to....

[TD50WA]

You should only need a 3" lift to fit 35" tyres.
As you point out, 35" tyres are a 3" larger radius over the standard 29", giving 3" more ground clearance and pushing upwards a further 3" towards the body.
A 3" suspension lift should even out the 3" increase upwards towards the body.
An aggressive flare setup requiring the guards to be cut (such as Les Richmond Automotives Stage 2) should accommodate the extra width of the larger tyres which catches on the sheetmetal of the guard.

Likewise 33" only requires 2" of suspension lift when fitted with flares and guard cuts.

Damn you Scott, I was happy with 33s, now I'm measuring up to see if I can get 35s under a 3" lift!:D:D:D
Seriously, will they fit on +32 offset under 3" lift without rubbing on articulation? Obviously with guards cut and LR flares of course.....anyone?

[twr7cx]

Damn you Scott, I was happy with 33s, now I'm measuring up to see if I can get 35s under a 3" lift!:D:D:D
Seriously, will they fit on +32 offset under 3" lift without rubbing on articulation? Obviously with guards cut and LR flares of course.....anyone?

Likewise.

I currently have 33" (285/75R16) tyres with 3" suspension (40mm coil springs, 10mm coil spring spacer and 1" suspension dropper kit). They fit and clear with no issues.

This weekend I will start to fit my Les Richmond Automotive Stage 2 Flares ( http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/175989-les-richmond-automotive-stage-2-flare-kit-pictures.html ). "The flares protrude off the existing alloy panel by 80mm and increase the opening by 120mm front and rear and 70mm off the top."

So, I'm confident that once the flares are fitted I could take out the 1" suspension spacer kit and go back down to just a 2" suspension lift with the 33" and no clearance issues.

Alternatively (and this is my preferable plan) I could retain the 3" suspension lift and increase the tyre size from 33" to 35". The 2" tyres diameter increase pushes the tyre out 1" all around. if the new flares are opening up the arches by 70 - 120mm there hopefully shouldn't be clearance issues on the guards.
It seems somewhat logical, 29" to 35" tyres is an increase of 3" radius, so a 3" suspension lift should compensate for this and the LRA flares should cover the increase in width.

With sticking with the +30mm rims, I'll need to check clearance on the radius arms and a few other things which I'll try and have a look at over the weekend...
But an interesting article is http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/two-tough which shows a Discovery 2 with 35" tyres and they look to be fitting underneath he LRA flares...

[Steve223]

Likewise.

I currently have 33" (285/75R16) tyres with 3" suspension (40mm coil springs, 10mm coil spring spacer and 1" suspension dropper kit). They fit and clear with no issues.

This weekend I will start to fit my Les Richmond Automotive Stage 2 Flares ( http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/175989-les-richmond-automotive-stage-2-flare-kit-pictures.html ). "The flares protrude off the existing alloy panel by 80mm and increase the opening by 120mm front and rear and 70mm off the top."

So, I'm confident that once the flares are fitted I could take out the 1" suspension spacer kit and go back down to just a 2" suspension lift with the 33" and no clearance issues.

Alternatively (and this is my preferable plan) I could retain the 3" suspension lift and increase the tyre size from 33" to 35". The 2" tyres diameter increase pushes the tyre out 1" all around. if the new flares are opening up the arches by 70 - 120mm there hopefully shouldn't be clearance issues on the guards.
It seems somewhat logical, 29" to 35" tyres is an increase of 3" radius, so a 3" suspension lift should compensate for this and the LRA flares should cover the increase in width.

With sticking with the +30mm rims, I'll need to check clearance on the radius arms and a few other things which I'll try and have a look at over the weekend...
But an interesting article is http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/two-tough which shows a Discovery 2 with 35" tyres and they look to be fitting underneath he LRA flares...

I just checked the space I have and that is nearly a hand width to the radius arm at full lock so will be reducing my steering stops quite a bit to give me better turning circle. Also will have no issues with 35" rubbing which is good

[TD50WA]

Likewise.

I currently have 33" (285/75R16) tyres with 3" suspension (40mm coil springs, 10mm coil spring spacer and 1" suspension dropper kit). They fit and clear with no issues.

This weekend I will start to fit my Les Richmond Automotive Stage 2 Flares ( http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/175989-les-richmond-automotive-stage-2-flare-kit-pictures.html ). "The flares protrude off the existing alloy panel by 80mm and increase the opening by 120mm front and rear and 70mm off the top."

So, I'm confident that once the flares are fitted I could take out the 1" suspension spacer kit and go back down to just a 2" suspension lift with the 33" and no clearance issues.

Alternatively (and this is my preferable plan) I could retain the 3" suspension lift and increase the tyre size from 33" to 35". The 2" tyres diameter increase pushes the tyre out 1" all around. if the new flares are opening up the arches by 70 - 120mm there hopefully shouldn't be clearance issues on the guards.
It seems somewhat logical, 29" to 35" tyres is an increase of 3" radius, so a 3" suspension lift should compensate for this and the LRA flares should cover the increase in width.

With sticking with the +30mm rims, I'll need to check clearance on the radius arms and a few other things which I'll try and have a look at over the weekend...
But an interesting article is Two Tough | Australian 4WD Action (http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/two-tough) which shows a Discovery 2 with 35" tyres and they look to be fitting underneath he LRA flares...

I just read that article and the guy has +6 rims, but reading Steves post after yours, he says he has a hands width of clearance from theradis arms on lock, so hopefully your rims will clear....I'll be interested to see how you go mate.

Cheers
Kev

[CJT]

The +32 rims and 33 x 12.5 tyres on mine clear the radius arms and come to within about 10 - 20mm of some of the metal under full flex and I do have LRA flares and all the cutting that goes with them.

Having said that, I do not have bumpstop extensions and my suspension still has the same maximum up travel as the original suspension but a lot more drop than the original.

Is there much advantage going to 35's with bumstops limiting suspension travel and only 25mm more diff clearance compared to flexier suspension on 33's with lockers and more wheel travel???

I had thought about 35's myself but have decided to get the most out of my setup on 33's, next step is 12" travel shocks and from what I can tell I should be able to get close to using all of that travel.

[TD50WA]

The +32 rims and 33 x 12.5 tyres on mine clear the radius arms and come to within about 10 - 20mm of some of the metal under full flex and I do have LRA flares and all the cutting that goes with them.

Having said that, I do not have bumpstop extensions and my suspension still has the same maximum up travel as the original suspension but a lot more drop than the original.

Is there much advantage going to 35's with bumstops limiting suspension travel and only 25mm more diff clearance compared to flexier suspension on 33's with lockers and more wheel travel???

I had thought about 35's myself but have decided to get the most out of my setup on 33's, next step is 12" travel shocks and from what I can tell I should be able to get close to using all of that travel.

I think you've asked the million dollar question Chris......truth is I don't know. However, I am sure that there will be arguement from both camps;)

I do prefer the LRA suspension though, so I guess the 35s are my choice because I will be stopping some of the flex compared to yours, the reason being I'm going to stick to air susp instead of the coils in the rear....this suits my purpose better, and yes, I've read all the fors and against arguements on that too, and there is very valid reasons for both sides in that one too.....decisions, decisions, decisions.....enough to send you mad:D

Cheers mate,
Kev

[CJT]

In QLD as well the maximum the engineer can do is 125mm total lift and it seems no more than a 50mm suspension lift, in my case that is the 33's and combination of suspension and body mods...

On a side note, with the suspension setup the engineer is also happy for a 200kg GVM increase which will make the disco a bit more useable at a 3025kg GVM.

All of the barwork and winches add a lot of weight and I may be able to look at sill tanks now for some extra fuel capacity and range on the V8.

[twr7cx]

I just read that article and the guy has +6 rims, but reading Steves post after yours, he says he has a hands width of clearance from theradis arms on lock, so hopefully your rims will clear....I'll be interested to see how you go mate.

Steve also has +6mm rims. Ideally these are what you want for 35", but whether you can get them engineered.

I measured up last night with the 33" and I'm pretty sure the 35" would just touch the radius arms at full lock. However, I am running the shortest steering standard stops would all the way in. If I would them out a bit or fitted the longer units, I'd be pretty confident that would prevent that issue.

Didn't get a chance to start playing with the flares today as had to work on the Pursuit ute due to a brake issue and bent swaybar links!

[Steve223]

The jeep flairs did not work out it would be far to much effort making them fit and would stand so far out I would need 40" to fill them so still looking for alternatives.

Did Gees Arm South again last weekend and this time with +33 offset rims and it felt way more stable with the wider wheel base so definetly keep them on. Hard to be believe that there are no 80mm flairs available for the D2 really don't want to use crude plastic strips below my flairs but seems like that's what it will come down to.

Though Graig actually had a good idea using D2 door seals and spacers between body and flairs so that is something we will try before attaching plastic.

[CJT]

The jeep flairs did not work out it would be far to much effort making them fit and would stand so far out I would need 40" to fill them so still looking for alternatives.

Did Gees Arm South again last weekend and this time with +33 offset rims and it felt way more stable with the wider wheel base so definetly keep them on. Hard to be believe that there are no 80mm flairs available for the D2 really don't want to use crude plastic strips below my flairs but seems like that's what it will come down to.

Though Graig actually had a good idea using D2 door seals and spacers between body and flairs so that is something we will try before attaching plastic.

When I looked at mine, as I will need wider flares next year with the new diffs, my thoughts where that I will head down to a fibreglass mob and get them to cut the outer flare off (almost down the middle where the change of slope / direction is) and mould in the required extension in the middle.

[Steve223]

One other thing to consider is the rear wheel carrier, I have my one already turned and repositioned and the 33" just fit but 35" will not fit on there. Seems like Les Richmond has a stronger replacement but is out of stock ATM

[twr7cx]

Damn you Scott, I was happy with 33s, now I'm measuring up to see if I can get 35s under a 3" lift!:D:D:D
Seriously, will they fit on +32 offset under 3" lift without rubbing on articulation? Obviously with guards cut and LR flares of course.....anyone?

This is my Disco with 3" lift (via a modified LRA White Tiger spacer underneath the SLS airbag) in standard highway height mode (i.e. not in offroad extended height mode):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1580.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_2847_zpsce3b8c7b.jpg.html)


Now this is the same vehicle at the same height with the Les Richmond flare kit installed (the LRA flare is installed on the left side and the right side of the vehicle is still standard allowing this comparison):

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1581.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_2848_zps916a3d7c.jpg.html)

You can see how much extra clearance there is around the tyre.

Now, I deflated the airbags right down, as this would be the maximum amount of upwards travel for the wheel.

Standard:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1582.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_2857_zps21a6326c.jpg.html)


LRA:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1583.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_2860_zps190ffede.jpg.html)


As you can see with the standard setup and 3" lift, 33" (285/75R16) are pretty close to the maximum size tyres before your going to risk some rubbing at the rear. With the LRA flares and the extra cut, I am confident that I will be able to fit 315/75R16 tyres which are around 34.5" and a nice common size that many Toyota Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol vehicles run.

Of note is my bump stop setup. I run standard bump stops with the LRA 2" spacer. I noticed that at full deflation my watts linkage bar just touches the top of my diff guard, so I intend to fit some extended bump stops in the future to prevent damage and bending.

Also note that the above setup doesn't have a huge amount of suspension travel. If your looking for suspension travel get rid of the SLS, use coils and stick with 33". In my case I like the comfort and load carrying and towing capabilities of the SLS too much.

The front isn't as easy to test out. I'm hoping to find a cheap set of 315/75R16 tyres locally in any flavour to fit onto my rims and test before purchasing a nice new set.

[Steve223]

In preparation for the 35's I yesterday installed the Les Richmond rear wheel carrier. I like it quite a bit, it's adjustable and now the 33's clear the rear bar and there is enough space for 35's. Not to mention that my old carrier was about to loose the wheel as all bolts where rusted.

Also installed a low coolant alarm just to be safe.


http://www.4sdata.net/skitch//carrier-20140124-093520.jpg
http://www.4sdata.net/skitch//IMG_6100-20140124-093609.jpg
http://www.4sdata.net/skitch//IMG_6101-20140124-093712.jpg

[Battler]

Did you fit the 315x75x16 tyres? If so, how are they?

[twr7cx]

Did you fit the 315x75x16 tyres? If so, how are they?

I believe Steve sold his D2 and moved onto another project.

[Steve223]

Yes Disco is sold, the tyres fitted well even had Simex ET2 in 35" on Disco which is really closer to a 36" no issues

[Battler]

Yes Disco is sold, the tyres fitted well even had Simex ET2 in 35" on Disco which is really closer to a 36" no issues

Thaks Steve, any pics?

Cheers

[Tombie]

People can we please stop the "will it fit with X lift" statements.

A lift is only part of a solution and doesn't allow larger tyres on its own. A lift changes static height only...

Bump stop changes etc are required to fit larger rubber - not big springs on their own!

[Steve223]

People can we please stop the "will it fit with X lift" statements.

A lift is only part of a solution and doesn't allow larger tyres on its own. A lift changes static height only...

Bump stop changes etc are required to fit larger rubber - not big springs on their own!

very true

[Steve223]

But as Tombi mentioned lift itself is just one component, I had to further massage my inner guards, progressive bump stops etc...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/618.jpg

[sierrafery]

It would be interesting to see the EGT uphill with those huge tyres though

[Tombie]

It would be interesting to see the EGT uphill with those huge tyres though



Gearing and tune should mean no significant difference...

[sierrafery]

My own vehicle contradicts that unfortunately cos all i did was to fit bigger tyres and the EGT and consumption had a noticeable increasement then thinking it was coincidental with some management issue swapped back to std dimensions and everything dropped back to normal, fitted the bigger ones and the EGT rose again... so did the breaking distance too

[Tombie]

My own vehicle contradicts that unfortunately cos all i did was to fit bigger tyres and the EGT and consumption had a noticeable increasement then thinking it was coincidental with some management issue swapped back to std dimensions and everything dropped back to normal, fitted the bigger ones and the EGT rose again... so did the breaking distance too



Gearing [emoji6] I did type gearing in my post... [emoji41]

[sierrafery]

In my limited mind "gearing" is linked to tyre size too, so is "tune" :cool:

i used this calculator https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ and compared the D2's std sizes for 16" wheels(255/65/16; 235/70/16) with close to 35" tyres(315/77/16) to see the proper gear ratio for each and the results are impressive so if only bigger tyres are fitted without ratio mods that higher EGT thing is logical IMO

[Tombie]

Perhaps I need to add more words..

The vehicle you made the comment about has had Gearing changes (ratios) and tuning altered..

(And I do tyre size calcs in my head btw, done it for decades) [emoji6]

So it has the correct mechanical advantage to keep loads down...

[twr7cx]

Tombie is correct. If you change the gearing (the easiest way is in the diff centres) to suit the chosen tyre sizes, then then vehicle will drive much closer to normal. I run 33" with the appropriate gearing and nonnegative EGT. If I just fitted these to a standard vehicle it would likely be an issue...

It all links back to tpwhat Tombie stated in one of his posts above - there's a lot more behind the scenes to lifts and bigger tyres than just the springs a tyres, it's adjusting bump stops, gearing, etc. etc.