Tdci clutch pedal squeak

[newhue]

For the first 50k or so it was quiet, for the last 40k I get this annoying squeak every time I change gears. LR can't top it, but it seems to be quiet or the first 5 changes of the day. I have put LOTS of chain lube on it, but SQUEAK it still goes.

Anyone had any success or ideas. Different type of spring? New spring?

[Aaron]

I had the exact same problem, complete with no one able to fix it. Next step was to remove clutch box, lube and refit - $$$$

Defender2 - View topic - Squeaky clutch?.....Easy mod! (http://www.defender2.net/forum/post263911.html) Then I found this.

It cost me $1.29 and 2mins to put in.

Not sure what grease I should be pumping into it though.

I love how LR left a bung hole there for self cleaning in water crossings.

[Samblers]

Search my thread on this - over time LR replaced the spring, the bushes and then the whole pedal box assembly... which didnt fix it. Eventually they managed to get some lube into the right spot which made the noise disappear but when it comes back (sure it will) i'll do the mod above

[newhue]

I had the exact same problem, complete with no one able to fix it. Next step was to remove clutch box, lube and refit - $$$$

Defender2 - View topic - Squeaky clutch?.....Easy mod! (http://www.defender2.net/forum/post263911.html) Then I found this.

It cost me $1.29 and 2mins to put in.

Not sure what grease I should be pumping into it though.

I love how LR left a bung hole there for self cleaning in water crossings.

thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you......you do not know the joy that you have just given me. thank you

[weeds]

thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you......you do not know the joy that you have just given me. thank you

Just learn to change gears without using the clutch.......

[newhue]

I tell you what, and this will sound draft. For sometime I have also had a metallic sound from the gear box changing from 1-2, and sometimes 3-4.

Last of my warranty work it was deemed my clutch was cactus again. While I was being dropped of somewhere by the nice mechanic, we started chatting about it. He said yep a Defer needs it's clutch pushed all the way to the floor. I thought I was doing this by the way.

Well car back, new clutch, same old metallic sound. So started to re-learn pushing that old clutch pedal hard down to the floor, and no more metallic sound. Changing without using a clutch, na not for me I like synchros.

[Judo]

I can hear lots of little noises like that on my 110 too.....until I start the 4BD1. Then I can no longer hear any of those noises! Problem solved. :p

[Aaron]

thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you......you do not know the joy that you have just given me. thank you

I have a fair idea I do! It actually takes away the pleasure of driving a defender. Not only the noise, but you can feel it through the pedal also.

[newhue]

Weeellll, put in the grease nipple, pumped about 1/3 of a grease tube in (silicone tube size), and sqqqqeeeeeaaaaakkkk the bloody thing still goes. Any other suggestions.
Anyone know whats inside where the grease is going, will a full tube cause issues.

Just amazes me how many years LR have been supplying cars with the same clutch assembly, maybe 25 years. How many years have they been squeaking, and how many people have had this frustrating complaint. No wonder they have the reputation they do.

[dullbird]

Yeah we had this problem with ours too very very annoying dealer would grease it and would be quite for a very short time and would happen again..

I think the bush had deteriorated on hours...I was convinced the spring was knackered but the dealership never thought so....

[Chops]

I'm still yet to do this,, maybe during the Xmas break,,
I cant say I've ever driven a car with so much noise during changing gears. :eek:

[newhue]

Yeah we had this problem with ours too very very annoying dealer would grease it and would be quite for a very short time and would happen again..

I think the bush had deteriorated on hours...I was convinced the spring was knackered but the dealership never thought so....

dullbird tell me about it. 18 to 24 months I have asked the dealer to sort it, and they do so for about the first 6 changes then it's back. I don't think it's the spring, mine has so much grease and silicone on it, it couldn't possibly squeak.

I discovered that 1/3 of a tube of grease falls out on the floor behind the pedal. Good thing I didn't put the whole tube in. However I scooped it up and shoved it back up to where it cam from smearing it over everything I could feel.
See how we go in the morning.

[newhue]

tis with great disappointment..... and frustration....fail

I do think for people with new Defenders. Fill the hole in the side of the clutch mechanism before it fills with dust. This may give trouble free squeakless operation for longer.

[Chops]

tis with great disappointment..... and frustration....fail

I do think for people with new Defenders. Fill the hole in the side of the clutch mechanism before it fills with dust. This may give trouble free squeakless operation for longer.

Mine basically did this from day 1 from memory.

However, within a month of picking her up, we'd done the Murray River crossing up at Geehi, and soon after some rather dusty tracks.

I think you may be right though, one would think it would have to help for sure.

[Samblers]

Mines creaking/clunking again. I'm off to buy a 6mm grease nipple tomorrow.

Has anyone has success with this? Several said they were going to try

[ozy013]

Yep, did this mod when I first bought her in Canberra 2nd hand, she sqqqqeeeeeaaaaakkkked all the way to Melbourne.

I think newhue hit the nail on the head though, the pedal box has to be clean and kept clean for it to work.
Initially I just bunged on a nipple and greased it up, that was good for a week or two, but that orrible noise would return.

So I removed the box, cleaned all the crap out, I think the previous owner must've had the same issue, put a decent gasket under the top plate on the box and changed the fluid and bled the system whilst at it.

So far no real sqqqqeeeeeaaaaakkkk.........oh bugger I've probably jinxed it now :censored:.

Every couple of weeks I just give it a couple of pumps, anymore and as newhue said, it just ends up on the mat behind the pedal.

[Drover Dave]

Mines creaking/clunking again. I'm off to buy a 6mm grease nipple tomorrow.

Has anyone has success with this? Several said they were going to try

I did this mod several months ago myself but with no real success. Last month I took the top off the clutch pedal box and lubed all moving parts with light oil and then 'over' sprayed with penatrating oil, reassembled and added a couple pumps of grease through the grease nipple.... 'Touch wood' all good so far.

[Devans]

From the time when mine started squeaking, it was two days later when my master cylinder started drooling on my foot. Overhauled and resleeved SS master cylinder seemed to resolve my problem.

I Think it was worth the $90 for no more squeaking. Drove me up the wall.

[JayBoRover]

I took a slightly different approach. When my D90 gets too annoying with the clutch squeak I park it up and take the S2a for a drive. After a little while I start wondering how great it would be to be able to hear a squeaky clutch pedal:D. Back in the 90 and it's all good for a couple of weeks before it's time to drive the S2a again. This method works well except through winter when getting wet while driving makes me miss the dry and warm cocoon of the D90 - and yes the S2a does have a roof:(.

[Samblers]

Ok I did the mod and all squeak-less so far. Not expecting it to last though after reading the above ...

The gasket to the box is crap for sure, and clearly there's an open (threaded) hole at the side for dirt to get in. I suspect LR grease it up in the factory and expect it to be done for life. Not so

Is the pedal box simple to remove?

[ozy013]

8598385982

Puma Fix - Squeaky clutch and heavy clutch pedal - 4x4 Community Forum (http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php't=154384)

This is where I got all the info from, you'll have to excuse all the nipple jokes later in the thread.
As Metalmachine stated you don't really have to remove the box itself, probably a bit of overkill, as most of the assembly can be accessed from above by removing the top plate. It just saves you having to remove the master cylinder and the subsequent bleeding of the system. Samblers it seems simple, but access is a pain, especially the three bolts alongside the steering column, and for some unfathomable reason I had a pig of a time lifting the box out through the bulkhead, just couldn't get it at the right angle to get the pedal through cleanly.

I used the pictures from the Landrover Parts Catalog Landrover Parts Catalog (http://lrparts.net.ru/) as a guide.

The only reason I removed my pedal box was it was so full a crap where previous attempts by the dealers had failed to sort the issue. So I just wanted a clean slate to start over. It doesn't fix the squeak completely, but it's nowhere near as bad as before the mod, and a couple of pumps of grease once in awhile keeps it pretty silent.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/342.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/342.jpg

[Samblers]

Great info, thanks :BigThumb:

[CharlesTeton]

I have a squeak too but can not hear it most of the time between crunching gears and tractor sounding Puma engine.

[jimb]

Well. I wish I hadn't read this post yesterday. All day all I could hear was 2 x squeaking pillars and clutch pedal. Bugger.

Right now to read how to eliminate.

Any point asking LR to do something ( have a few months warranty left)?

[stewie110]

I did this mod several months ago myself but with no real success. Last month I took the top off the clutch pedal box and lubed all moving parts with light oil and then 'over' sprayed with penatrating oil, reassembled and added a couple pumps of grease through the grease nipple.... 'Touch wood' all good so far.

I had the squeak and I did similar.. problem solved.. I have to do it once per year now to keep it squeak free.

[Samblers]

Mines creaking again. I'm ready to drive it off a cliff.

It's a trivial problem but it's like Chinese water torture... highly irritating after a long days driving.

I'm convinced it's rotating parts of the spring, not the shaft/bush in the pedal box. I'm on my second spring. I wonder if LR replaced the spring bushes or wether these are available to replace?

[ozy013]

I wonder if LR replaced the spring bushes or wether these are available to replace?

Just done a quick search, spring bush x2: part no. DCP3212L $15.40 (number 5 on below attachment)
pin bush x1 ( you need 2): part no. 272714 $22.00 (number 6 on same attachment)

The prices are off Roverparts, not had a chance to call my usual supplier to compare yet. But will try tomorrow if I remember.

It wouldn't surprise me if all these lubricants being sprayed into the pedal box are actually accelerating the wear of these bushes, especially if WD40 or something similar is being used. I tend to use Inox Lanox, it's kinder to rubber etc. Plus I only sprayed it on the spring whilst I had the box out.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/85983-tdci-clutch-pedal-squeak-1235_039862208.jpg

[Samblers]

Many thanks for that.

LR replaced my 'pedal box' ... i wonder what that consists of, i.e. wether than included new bushings or shaft? They did it under warranty so i didnt get a part number or details.

In any case i'll have to disassemble the whole thing and inspect/clean

Cheers, Sam

[Samblers]

A thought - surely this grease nipple mod only allows lubrication of one of the pivot bushes, not both

[Cracka]

Don't worry Samblers I'm on a trip up through Qld at the moment, the bloody thing starting squeaking 2 days before I left. I stayed in Maroochydoe for a few days and bought a nipple, mini grease gun, picks etc to get the silicone plug out........yep the ****er still squeaks. I've used lanox on the spring, the plastic bushes where the spring ends go, everything, but after driving for a couple of hours each day it starts to squeak again.

It's weird that the squeak won't happen when stationary, only when actually driving and in the process of changing gear, even when it does it if you try and trick it and push the clutch in the second time it won't happen.......it's driving me nuts...........

[ozy013]

A thought - surely this grease nipple mod only allows lubrication of one of the pivot bushes, not both

Yep seems that way, when i got my info from the za forum, they did mention that there should be a thread for another nipple on the opposite side, just above the steering column. However when i pulled the box apart there was no such thread. Well not on mine anyway :mad:.

I never thought to try to tap a thread whilst I had it all apart, ah well!

[Samblers]

I think i'm the only one who's still interested in this thread but i'll keep kicking it down the road...

I had another look inside the clutch pedal box and believe i've found the culprit - its neither the spring nor the pivot but the clutch cylinder actuation rod, right at the top of the box.

The rod is threaded and passes through a hole - in part number 7 in the pic - as it does so the threads 'saw' slightly at the hole.

This accounts for the noise, the 'notchy' feel of the pedal movement and also the recurring nature of the problem. I tightened up the two nuts on the threaded rod to stop any movement but theres virtually no space to swing a spanner and within a few days the noise is back.

So, i dont have a fix... its a pretty crap arrangement really

[Chops]

Keep it going Sam, I'm watching, and just waiting till I can get into mine to see whats happening in there.

[wrinklearthur]

You would be surprised if you knew who reads these threads. :D

I am taking all this on board, as those squeaks can be a real annoyance.
.

[Cracka]

Hey Sam, I'm interested mate, I've still got the bloody squeak:twisted: it was gone for the past 2 days and then today it was back, slightly. I seem to think it could be heat related as the components heat up and swell slightly :confused:

Mine, most of the time starts when things get hot, possibly due to the heat coming from the exhaust turbo etc......grasping at straws here, I know........

I was excited when you thought you found it, the said it was back.

I understand what you're saying about the feel as I reckon I can feel a difference in the feel of the clutch when it is squeaking.

[Samblers]

Mine is always worse in hot weather, or after a reasonable drive and things in the engine bay have warmed up. Expansion/ contraction of metallic parts is definitely a factor.

I'm going to open up my pedal box again and have a better go at tightening up the opposing nuts which clamp together the threaded actuation rod.

With all this talk of spraying lubricant inside the pedal box like holy water it could be making these nuts loosen off and therefore be making the problem worse not better ...

[Samblers]

Had another play with the clutch pedal box today...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/654.jpg

My clutch pedal is now free of squeaks, creaks, and any 'notchy' feeling during operation. On a simple level, all i did was tighten the nuts on the actuation rod which are either side of the silver bush you can see in my picture above. Devil is in the detail however...

Some observations:

- I first removed the fat nyloc nut and removed all previous lubricants from the end of the threaded rod. I pushed the clutch pedal in and jammed it with a block of wood to gain better access.

- the two slim nuts on the clutch cylinder end are too narrow to get any spanner (that i own or have ever seen) on. This drove me slightly crazy. I ended up with the needle ended mole grips on the inner nut. Theres no room to rotate the spanner either. This also drove me crazy.

- the threaded rod and nuts are not metric. Once i'd removed the nyloc nut i thought it would be better to put a double lock nut arrangement on this end too but found that M8 nuts were binding up. It seems that Barbagello Land Rover Perth found this too from the way the threads on the rod were slightly chewed. I ended up putting the old nyloc back on. 13mm spanner.

- The rod spins. In order to get the fat nyloc sufficiently tight i had to get the mole grips on the rod itself. This is a factor in getting the nuts tight enough.

Tightening up these nuts against each other - even until they squash the silver cylinder a little - will stop the rod moving around (even slightly) inside the cylinder, sawing at the cylinder and therefore eliminate the creaky notchy operation. My guess is that most creaky clutch pedal boxes have had too much back and forth adjustment of the nyloc nut (therefore loss of torque) and too much lubricant thrown at them (more loss of torque).

Hopefully i wont be back in a weeks time with more damn creaks

Sam

[digger]

From now on you will be known as THE CREAK MASTER
:clap2::clap2::clap2::TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow :

[Chops]

Good work Sam,, ah Creak Master ;)

With the spanner situation, you could always hack at an old one with an angle grinder to both flatten out the rounds to allow turn, and grind the flats to make it skinny enough. This will be know forthwith as Special Tool # ?

Why they don't have flats ground on the end of the bolt is anyone's guess, and unless you actually remove the bolt and do it yourself, locking pliers look like the answer.

We'll done, I look forward to attacking mine around Xmas sometime.

Thanks for the report.

[Samblers]

Did you investigate this Chops?

Mine is good for a bit, then creaks. I open up the pedal box, crank up the nuts, then its good again. Then creaks again, and so on...

The nyloc nut at the back of the rod seems to have lost its grip, need to put a locking nut behind it

[Bushie]

Had another play with the clutch pedal box today...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/654.jpg

My clutch pedal is now free of squeaks, creaks, and any 'notchy' feeling during operation. On a simple level, all i did was tighten the nuts on the actuation rod which are either side of the silver bush you can see in my picture above. Devil is in the detail however...

Some observations:

- I first removed the fat nyloc nut and removed all previous lubricants from the end of the threaded rod. I pushed the clutch pedal in and jammed it with a block of wood to gain better access.

- the two slim nuts on the clutch cylinder end are too narrow to get any spanner (that i own or have ever seen) on. This drove me slightly crazy. I ended up with the needle ended mole grips on the inner nut. Theres no room to rotate the spanner either. This also drove me crazy.

- the threaded rod and nuts are not metric. Once i'd removed the nyloc nut i thought it would be better to put a double lock nut arrangement on this end too but found that M8 nuts were binding up. It seems that Barbagello Land Rover Perth found this too from the way the threads on the rod were slightly chewed. I ended up putting the old nyloc back on. 13mm spanner.

- The rod spins. In order to get the fat nyloc sufficiently tight i had to get the mole grips on the rod itself. This is a factor in getting the nuts tight enough.

Tightening up these nuts against each other - even until they squash the silver cylinder a little - will stop the rod moving around (even slightly) inside the cylinder, sawing at the cylinder and therefore eliminate the creaky notchy operation. My guess is that most creaky clutch pedal boxes have had too much back and forth adjustment of the nyloc nut (therefore loss of torque) and too much lubricant thrown at them (more loss of torque).

Hopefully i wont be back in a weeks time with more damn creaks

Sam

However by doing this you have eliminated ( or appear to) the 1.5mm (1/16") freeplay that must exist at the pedal/pushrod, and will probably produce clutch problems later.



Martyn

[Chops]

Hi Sam, haven't got to it yet, have been somewhat busy I'm afraid, and probably won't get to it for another 6 or so weeks yet. Have to organize some moving etc.
An interesting thought Bushie. I'm thinking maybe it might need a different type of bush maybe (?) Not sure how easy this would be to do, I wonder if there is a "fix" for from LR. In spite of that, putting a set of lock nuts there shouldn't be too difficult to do and still leave the gap required.

[Samblers]

Interesting point Bushie, this hadnt escaped my attention...

my aim is to tighten the nuts against the tube such that the sliding/sawing movement of the rod is eliminated, not squash the tube so much that the pedal freeplay is removed completely. i think i've managed that.

I guess the point of the pedal freeplay is to guarantee that the clutch comes off completely. What future problems do you anticipate?

I cant think of another solution

[DEPENDER]

such a simple idea...you would have really thought the darn COMPANY would have thought of it!!!!!...why don't they adopt the idea...oh..thats right..its almost ?1...or $2...gee , if they did that to all the parts of the car, it would break the bank...tut tut.

[85county]

Thank you Sam for your solution to this irritating problem. I was also only able to fit one grease nipple to my Nov. 2011 110 and I found that the grease oozed out around the bushing on that side until I wedged a fine screw driver blade behind the other bush to create a better seal. Now the grease has penetrated all the way through. I also pressed in some Rocol anti seize into the springs and contact points. All is nice and quiet at the moment. Hope that it lasts.

[Samblers]

Damnit, after a 500km trip, still ******* creaking

I might take the whole assembly apart and clean/inspect, but a little put off by having to bleed the clutch system - is this hard to do?

Will I need any supplies (other than fluid) to do this?

[Loubrey]

Sam,

Starting to think a louder sound system might be an easier option... :D

My other half complains about the creaky squeak, but I think I just got used to it. I have listen out for it to hear what she's on about and it comes and goes sort of randomly in any case.

Good luck with your continued hunt!

Cheers,

Lou

[Samblers]

Man travelled to the moon!

Surely an operational clutch pedal should not be beyond our grasp?!

[ozy013]

Damnit, after a 500km trip, still ******* creaking

I might take the whole assembly apart and clean/inspect, but a little put off by having to bleed the clutch system - is this hard to do?

Will I need any supplies (other than fluid) to do this?

Hey Sam, great to see that your still trying to find a solution.

The clutch is pretty straight forward to bleed.
The official way is below. But you can either pull the new fluid through from the reservoir or you can reverse bleed it. Using something like this;NEW Hand Held Brake Bleeder Vacuum Pressure Tester Pump Brake Bleeding KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291152875341?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I picked up one of these awhile back to do my brakes and it works a treat.
The advantage of reverse bleeding, is you're pushing the air up and out through the reservoir, the way it naturally wants to travel. Just make sure the reservoir is empty.
The slave cylinder is a concentric bearing type on the puma and is inside the bell housing. You should see a black plastic unit with a bleed nipple on it, on the gearbox bell housing.

Good tutorial here. http://youtu.be/4-XjNLm7358

Keep up the good work Sam, I've given up on my squeaky box, :wallbash: for now. It's not too bad, but on longer trips as the heat builds up it gets progressively worse.

Cheers, Ian.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/928.jpg

[Samblers]

Thanks for that Ian, appreciated.

Yeah it's been hot here in WA for the last week and squeak noticeably worse... something must be expanding a little in there

Am I asking too much of my truck?

[ozy013]

I don't think so Sam, but as Lou said, i think you just get used to it over time.

I drive a Western Star truck, Detroit 60 series, for work. Noisy as all hell, you get used to the drone all day long. But as soon as a "new" noise comes along, I find myself focusing on it so much that it gives me the s:censored:ts, and I'm not happy until I've tracked it down. Plus it doesn't help that my AM/FM radio is cactus, and I can't turn up the tunes to drown it out.

I'm definitely going to try to fix this, I've just run out of ideas for the moment. I might have a go at trying to tap a thread on the opposite side for another nipple, just haven't got the motivation to pull the box out yet again. I'll be watching with interest.

Don't give up,:BigThumb:

[Samblers]

Yeah i hear ya

Problem is i can feel it, not hear it... was doing 110kph with mud tryes, 6 passengers, full roof rack and the stereo on... that damn clutch pedal was grating away!

This problem needs solving and then a kit of modified parts made available by some enterprising soul :angel:

[Samblers]

FINALLY got round to having a dedicated look at this bl**dy creak, armed with dad, who loves a pointless battle with inanimate objects :rolleyes:

He agreed that the creak was definitely coming from the top end of the pedal box (not the main pedal pivot as many suspect) but more from the master cylinder side of things.

We drained the clutch fluid, disconnected everything and removed the pedal box:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/784.jpg

Removed the master cylinder from the box, removed the washer, circlip, pulled out the rod and inspected. It was interesting to note that there was not much grease, if any, inside the master cylinder:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/785.jpg

The rod has a ball and cup type fitting into the master cylinder piston. Because of the arc-motion of the clutch pedal, the rod does not have a true forwards/backwards stroke into the piston. It must pivot slightly. The two mating surfaces are the suspects:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/786.jpg

The end of the rod has wear/ corrosion in the form of hard ridges that can be felt with a thumbnail:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/787.jpg

With some 1200 grit the end of the rod was buffed until no surface imperfections were present:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/788.jpg

The master cylinder piston (the 'cup') seems to be made of harder material and looked in good nick:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/789.jpg

We re-assembled the rod into the master cylinder with a generous helping of rubber grease (do not use any old grease here):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/790.jpg

cont...

[Samblers]

cont...

Whilst I had the thing on the workbench I was interested to look at the other pivoting surfaces seeing as much blame has been laid on the main clutch pedal pivot bushes as the culprit of creaks. As you can see i previously carried out the mod to fit a grease niplle into the thread on the end of the main pivot:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/779.jpg

The pivot is nicely made, heavy duty, with a grease galley down the middle which lubes at the centre of the pivot, not just at one end as has previously been supposed in this thread:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/780.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/781.jpg

I simply cleaned, re-greased and re-assembled.

The connection from the pedal to the master cylinder rod is less nice, and my pivot and spacer piece had a few nicks and scrapes in the mating surfaces which i didnt like. LR wanted $67 for a new spacer so i cleaned up my current one, radiusing every sharp edge through which the rod passes - my other area of suspicion discussed previously:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/782.jpg

I'd squashed the spacer piece slightly in my previous efforts to eradicate squeaks. I straightened it owed and decided not to nip it up too tight in future - i think the problem is elsewhere...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/783.jpg

Et Voila. No squeaks... but i'll report back in the coming weeks/ months to see if it stays away.

Hope this assists :)

[Chops]

Nice work Sam.

I think I'll be needing to look at mine sooner that later. Mine feels a bit strange at the moment. Not sure but it feels a bit like something's let go, feels quite "rough" as you push through the first part of the stroke. :eek:

However, first things first,, the girls car needs a new radiator :mad:

[Samblers]

Yep mine was rough/notchy. Not now.

I also found this forum topic here - one poster says he lubed the rod/piston properly and it was good for 5 years thereafter.

clutch pedal spring - Defender Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=37131)

Let us know how you get on

[The Cone of Silence]

My clutch doesn't squeak yet but given the ease and speed with which it can be prevented, I'm off for a 6mm grease nip myself!

Yesterday (a beautiful day on which SWMNOBOBAFAR insisted we go to the beach in heavy traffic), the clutch did start making some noise but it was more of a creaking, cracking, croaking sound when I pushed it in. Initially there was a 'crack' which made my heart skip a beat but then the clutch worked fine, it's just that the noise was worrying.

I figured the spring wasn't seated correctly and lo and behold, when I had a look under there, out dropped the wee collar that sits between the spring and the 'foot' end of the pedal.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90421&stc=1&d=1423449492

Should be a simple replacement thanks to Darren Burgess in the UK Land Rover Anorak Technical 110 Station Wagon (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/Technical110PedalMods.htm)

Bobby

[newhue]

Sweeeeet, after Land Rover failed to fix it at every service from 50K and 100K. Then enduring another 50K of it jerking its way in and out sneaking all the way; I finally chucked $130 at it for MR Auto to have a go. Shazam, fix it first time!
I had forgotten what a smooth quiet clutch feels like, what it felt like back when it was new. It's a shame LR do this to their customers but anyway such is Defender ownership.
Apparently MR removed the clutch pedal cover and lubricated the push rod and pivot pin. Best money I have spent in a while really, and best of all I didn't touch the bloody thing.

[BigBlueOne]

Funny you brought up this thread today.. I just had my 90 in getting a service and had my clutch pedal squeak fixed also.. so much better now!

[ProjectDirector]

They did mine 4 times over the first 3 years and now out of warranty it started again. I am not taking it back to them now, I will give it a go myself.

[newhue]

PD it seems there is a fix which is see how it goes, I think I have that one. If the squeak reappears soon I was told they will have to go deeper. But perhaps for most, well I hope anyway, some lube in the bits I have mentioned will surfice for a few years.

nice to hear BBO, it changes that feel of the car enormously I reckon. Just have a squeaking door now to deal with.

[rar110]

I get the feeling you and I are both a bit over LR quirks.

[newhue]

Yes Pete every brand has issues, and I have love hate days. Just seem to meet a lot of Land Rover owners who have lots of dumb issues, and Jap owners who have few. Mine's going ok but with 150K on it it still out performs my mates Jap cars on stupid things. Not sure why I though hand built was good thing at the time. Robots don't care about the weather, hang overs, martial issues, the boss, what pay they are on, or what day of the week it is. But I also think cost of componentry and where it's made plays a big role. Car manufactures would be no different to most big players in business, want to sell the cheapest made product for the most money, and let perception do most the value adding. TDCI P38 diffs are one example. Trouble with LR even though the service side is good, HO are arrogant. The clutch squeak is not just a TDCI thing, it's been around since Tdi. But would HQ look at a re design, maybe dust proofing it a bit. And the list is long with Defender. Bu Na we got it right first time chaps. I guess that's why Defender is extinct.

[weeds]

Yes Pete every brand has issues, and I have love hate days. Just seem to meet a lot of Land Rover owners who have lots of dumb issues, and Jap owners who have few. Mine's going ok but with 150K on it it still out performs my mates Jap cars on stupid things. Not sure why I though hand built was good thing at the time. Robots don't care about the weather, hang overs, martial issues, the boss, what pay they are on, or what day of the week it is. But I also think cost of componentry and where it's made plays a big role. Car manufactures would be no different to most big players in business, want to sell the cheapest made product for the most money, and let perception do most the value adding. TDCI P38 diffs are one example. Trouble with LR even though the service side is good, HO are arrogant. The clutch squeak is not just a TDCI thing, it's been around since Tdi. But would HQ look at a re design, maybe dust proofing it a bit. And the list is long with Defender. Bu Na we got it right first time chaps. I guess that's why Defender is extinct.



I have been driving a POS Hi-lux for 18 months, never lifted the bonnet or needed the tool bag........just brought a defender and the tools come out twice in the first week

[ProjectDirector]

I have been driving a POS Hi-lux for 18 months, never lifted the bonnet or needed the tool bag........just brought a defender and the tools come out twice in the first week

I agree with you, I had a hilux SR5 for a few years and apart from service and normal wear and tear didn't have to fix anything else. I guess the japs have better manufacturing process than europeans and US, end of story.

I also had an Xtrail for 8 years and believe or not there were absolutely no issues at all during the 8 years.

I am keeping the Defender because my son wants it and I will be buying another Jap soon.

[newhue]

Weeds you make me laugh. I guess we can drink a lot of beer supporting each orher as we stare hoplessly into the engine bay. First week hey. Just think of the fun masked behind "soul" that awaits you. I lost mine on day 2 for several weeks to LR. Twas a strange but predictable intoduction to defender ownership. Your clutch squeak?

[85county]

My fix for the clutch pedal squeak has now lasted for 18 months. The way I see it is that the grease pumped into the grease nipple finds the easiest course through the components and oozes out. Because of the spring tension in the pedal assembly, the hollow shaft passing through the two bushes at the side of the pedal box is also under pressure and doesn't allow the grease to fully penetrate and lubricate the entire surface of the shaft. As I stated in my post last year, I removed the cover plate and simply wedged a fine-bladed screw driver behind the bush on the opposite side from the grease nipple, applied sufficient pressure to get a good seal between the components so that the grease didn't ooze straight out and instead penetrated and filled the void between the shaft and the bushes. Hope this is helpful to those who have battled with this recurring issue.

[manic]

A defender clutch pedal is supposed to squeak or creak, I'd get it looked at if it didn't. Pretty sure they had a squeak tuner on the production line making sure they went out sounding right. Have the full defender orchestra playing and enjoy. :D

[Samblers]

like an old friend, i'm resurrecting this thread

... my clutch pedal is creaking again [tonguewink]