What a two steps forward one step back day

[PhilipA]

I planned this afternoon to drain the radiator , inspect with a borescope and replace the coolant or if dirty put some rad flush through.
I veeery carefully unscrewed the plastic plug before I started and was very happy that it came out intact. I then went to replace the plastic plug with a brass one and the thread must have come away inside the hose! ARRRGH.
So I Araldited the plug in and then ordered a set of hoses.
I should have known I guess.

So I thought I would have another go at putting a hose on the aircon drain on top of the XYZ switch. This time I attacked it from the drivers side and this was the magic formula as my wrists turned the correct way and I was able to shove a hose in and put the burper on the end of the hose down on the chassis, hopefully far enough from the exhaust to not melt.
So SUCCESS!
Then seeing I had all this time available I would have a look at the handbrake and see if I could see why it resonated at 2200RPM.

I opened it up and found it slathered in oil, but the oil was not from the rear seal . It seemed to be coming in the backing plate through the handbrake cable hole. Some gorilla had changed the seal and the felt washer was squashed out of shape, but no oil seemed to be coming from there at all. I think the oil was originally from the input shaft seal, and had run down the case and dripped off the sump onto the cable and then into the brake.
I believe the rattle is from the actual brake shoes vibrating against the backing plate , and there are deep witness marks on the backing plate. The top seems worse as the spring tension is quite weak.
So I slipped some brass shim material behind the shoes to see I it makes a difference. It may fall out quickly but should stay long enough to tell.

I have to get new shoes because the current ones are just soaked so will also buy new springs.
I didn't want to take the drum off as I am pretty sure I would have to remove the output flange as it is a poofteenth bigger than the hole in the backing plate. Geez Landrover! the oil level is above the output seal so I would have to drain and refill the oil which I don't want to do as I did it 2 weeks ago.
I think I will rivet some brass shim over the pads on the backing plate as it looks to have deep marks from the vibration.
I will keep you posted.
PS that damn rubber coupling holds the tailshaft in the way the whole time . Next time I will remove it.
Regards Philip A

[Roverlord off road spares]

Phillip,That TD5 is giving you a lot of grief, should have kept the Rangie:D
nah that wouldn't allow you the repair times at the week ends and life and Landy ownership would then be no fun.;)
cheers, Mario

[OffTrack]

I didn't want to take the drum off as I am pretty sure I would have to remove the output flange as it is a poofteenth bigger than the hole in the backing plate. Geez Landrover!

The hole in the backing plate is sized to fit over the output flange. :angel:

[PhilipA]

The hole in the backing plate is sized to fit over the output flange.

Hmmmm, that would be good.
I did measure them both with verniers and external protractor but I could be wrong as can happen using 2 different tools.
Regards Philip A

[PhilipA]

Phillip,That TD5 is giving you a lot of grief, should have kept the
Rangie

Ya gotta have a sense of humour, but lying under cars is getting as old as I am.
I have to admit it took me a couple of years to get the Rangie perfect and I guess it will be the same with the D2.
The Rangie drove me mad with steering feedback until after 2 sets of shocks, replacing the tie rod ends and fixing the LH swivel that leaked I finally bit the bullet and rebuilt the RH swivel which looked perfect only to find that some dork in the factory had not fully seated the swivel bearing cone. This was only at about 90KK . I also had the auto pump leak which was done with the rear main seal.
The D2 really grows on you with the little engine that can although my wife is always telling me it sounds like a TRUCK. I have no real regrets in selling the RRC although I cannot understand how LR made the ride so much rougher using a similar layout.
The D2 build quality seems much much better and the body is much stronger.
Regards Philip A

[turbopsi]

Hi Philip, how did you with the brake shoes rattle/vibration? Did the rattle dissapear?

Cheers
Tony

[Pippin]

Hi Phillip,

If you are going to replace the shoes and springs to get rid of the rattle there is a Land Rover Tech Bulletin No.0022 that describes a modification to the left hand shoe to rectify and the springs you should use (Red) to replace the original hold down springs. Also it would be good to get rid of the wear points on the back plate. The Tech Bulletin can be found on this site.

Nick

[PhilipA]

I haven't driven it yet.
Nobody seems to know where to get the red springs and they are not listed anywhere on Ebay or the local parts bloke I use ( Gary CLR).Ther ewas a recent post that stated that the poster couldn't get them AFAIR.
I think that if I Glue/rivet some brass shims either on the shoes or the shoe rests it will change the resonant frequency.
We will see but it will be at least the weekend before I drive it.
Regard s Philip A

[Pippin]

Red Springs are available from a Land Rover Dealer Parts Department Part Number SMN500050. They cost me $21 in Perth. They are much stronger than the Black and hold the shoes down better.

Nick:)

[winaje]

PS that damn rubber coupling holds the tailshaft in the way the whole time . Next time I will remove it.
Regards Philip A
Michael2 showed me a good trick regarding the rear shaft. Undo it at the handbrake, move it so you have a bit of room at the front, then slide the yoke and shaft out of the splines in the shaft. Sit aside out of the grime etc. Gives good access and a quick refit, saves having to pull the rear off.

[PhilipA]

then slide the yoke and shaft out of the splines in the shaft

Just a caveat that you have to be very careful to mark the yoke and shaft or you will get it out of sync. Hmm I wonder if that applies to shafts with a rubber coupling ,but I think so.
I try to never disturb the position of the splines even when I put in new Ujs as it is easy to rub off marks and then be puzzling for hours over "is this the correct way?"

Regards Philip A

[PhilipA]

Peace in our time!
My shims and clean and adjust have cured the 2200RPM resonance maybe temporarily.
I will try and buy the red springs but I think I will still need to somehow fix shim over the worn areas on the backing plate. Maybe Araldite and a rivet.
Regards Philip A

[jf1056]

Hi Phillipa
I read this post last Friday and was having the same noise, drives ya crazy!!

Anyway, pulled it apart Sunday morning to find the brake shoes had worn a nice groove in each of the six contact points on the backing plate. So, disassembled the lot, put the backing plate in the vice and proceeded to run a line of small electrode weld along the grooves. Ground down and finished with an air grinder back to flat. Black paint to look pretty and put back together. I have the original black springs and they are pretty weak so will need to replace with the red sooner or later, but the weld lines fixed the rattle vibration. It took 300,00k's to get to this point so may not bother with the red springs.
The "Sounds of Silence" are very nice. Just thought I would let you know about my fix that seems to have worked.
Cheers
Jack.