Puma lower door seals after 2011

[Defender08]

Trips to the west coast of SA have left me wanting to reduce the amount of dust coming in at the bottom of the two rear doors in my 110 SW.

I want to fit the more modern lower door seals to my 2008 Puma. I've looked through posts here and abroad, and some mention that the push clips for attaching the new seals to the bottom of the doors do not align with the holes used for the old seals. Would anyone be able to post a photo showing the position of the holes in the bottom of the doors with the current model door seals?

[Craigb]

I'm fairly new around here and so much info on this forum i haven't searched all this stuff. I have a 92 and a 96 defender. The 92 has the seals attached to the body and then i took from the roverparts website that you could fit the later seals that attached to the door, and as i have on the 96. So there is a later seal again? Where do you source them from? I am just pulling the 96 ones off (which i had figured were retro fitted but maybe not) to deal with rust in the doors, but by the sounds of things your 2008 has them on the doors.

[ezyrama]

here's a sketch of a 2012 lower passenger door seal, passenger side. The pins push into the bottom edge of the door except for the front edge which if off to the side of the door rubber. A shed load better than the old style but road noise still gets through but the water now comes through the floor pan ;)
Cheers Ian

[Defender08]

Thanks ezyrama and the back doors?

[chook73]

Try this thread, I have had the seals for ages and I was planning to fit them this weekend

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/128530-puma-my11-new-door-seals-last.html

[Defender08]

Thanks chook73. I'm across that one and other posts, but still haven't found the info on hole layout.

[chook73]

Thanks chook73. I'm across that one and other posts, but still haven't found the info on hole layout.

My understanding is that you simply drill out the rivets and pop in the new seal, you only have to drill one new hole for the end clip on each seal.

From Defender2

Started the fitting this afternoon - only one rear door so far due to other more pressing problems - leaking roof on the house that was supposed to have been repaired last month Big Cry

This is the route I took to fit the rear door seal.

1. Remove the door card - reason for this will become clear a bit later.
2. Drill out the pop rivets holding on the old bit of rubber strip - the original seal. Remove front rubber block - stuck on.
3. Fish out the bits of rivet now floating about in the bottom of the door (why the card was removed).
4. Enlarge exising holes where rivets were - an extra 1mm did the trick.
5. Paint holes and have a cup of tea.
6. Fit new seal using the five studs into the existing holes - they do just about line up.
7. Undo door stay so that you can get to the front door edge.
8. Drill holes in front and read door edge to take two new fixings and paint holes.
9. Clip last two fixings in, replace door stay and card.

Job done Thumbs Up

I didn't put waxoyl in the door this time as the pressure spray was playing up, I will do it when I do the other doors.

Only thing I need to check on a four door with the new seals is if the existing frame seal needs trimming at the rear for a proper fit, my door closes OK and there is no daylight showing so I will probably leave it as it is.

Bob

[Defender08]

Chook73

I think it was the same guy who later in the thread posted
bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: somerset
Posts: 2470





The holes for the new seal studs are very slightly larger than the original fixing holes, 1 or 2mm tops.

To make the seal effective do not try and reuse the original fixing holes, especially at the back, the new seal needs to be taught. On my o/s rear, the first one I fitted, I just used the orignal holes and there is not enough tension to stop spray ingress. This one needs to be refitted properly. On the n/s rear I had to drill three new fixing holes and it is perfect.

Of course your vehicles may be different so try before you drill


Not a hard or long job but a little bit of trial fitting and checking pays dividends.

[chook73]

Chook73

I think it was the same guy who later in the thread posted
bob neville



Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: somerset
Posts: 2470





The holes for the new seal studs are very slightly larger than the original fixing holes, 1 or 2mm tops.

To make the seal effective do not try and reuse the original fixing holes, especially at the back, the new seal needs to be taught. On my o/s rear, the first one I fitted, I just used the orignal holes and there is not enough tension to stop spray ingress. This one needs to be refitted properly. On the n/s rear I had to drill three new fixing holes and it is perfect.

Of course your vehicles may be different so try before you drill


Not a hard or long job but a little bit of trial fitting and checking pays dividends.

That just shows I dont read all of the instructions….. :angel:

Knowing defenders its likely to be spaced differently on every door & seal :wasntme:

[Defender08]

So back to the original question.
Would anyone be able to post a photo showing the position of the holes in the bottom of the doors with the current model door seals?

[Dervish]

I have fitted the new seals on my '97. It is largely as as everyone has said; the existing holes need to be about 1mm larger in diameter as well as the holes nearest the front and rear edges of the door also needing to be relocated by about 1cm or so. Obviously new holes are required on the front and rear edges of each door as previously stated.

I'm O/S at the moment, but if you can wait a week I'll post up photos... but why do you need photos? Just get the seal, put it up to the door, mark where required, then drill.

FWIW, fitting these seals is a great improvement for the amount of effort it takes. Particularly if you have the horrid body mounted seal like I did. No more chilly right elbow!