eeyore
15th November 2013, 09:42 PM
Hi everyone,
I'm trying diagnose the problem with my 4bd1 ute's charging circuit, and I could really do with some help :(. OEM 40amp Nippon Denso alternator has been rebuilt by local auto electrician last week. Regulator is 6 months old, solid state, internal fuse good. Pulled dash apart (a mistake, since it was held together with self-tappers, silicone and hope) to check indicator light and found that it's wired differently to the manual's circuit diagram. The Batt/Alt indicator lamp isn't connected back to the regulator harness at all, and the wires that should form that circuit are connect together via a very heavy fuse. Weird, since I thought it wouldn't have ever worked without the indicator lamp in the regulator circuit?
Anyway, since it wasn't working anyway, I wired it up as per the diagram - power from 'ign on' to indicator light with correct (Brown/yellow) wire to regulator - and lamp I substituted into the circuit works as expected - ie comes on with ignition, start engine and flickers at very low idle, touch throttle and permanently goes out. However, no charge to battery. I make a temporary patch harness in engine bay, power to regulator direct from battery, both with lamp and without, lamp behaves as it should and I do get some response at battery, reading goes from 12.1v at idle to about 12.9 at max revs (regardless of whether lamp is in circuit or not though).
Final test is to bypass regulator entirely and jump sense wire to battery. If I understand some of the stuff I've read, I should get full voltage from alternator - 15-16+ v - to battery? Instead, only get about 13.5, and that's at very high revs. So could all the problems be that the alternator is simply not showing enough voltage to the regulator? Can't work out why it should be the alternator though; newly rebuilt, belt is tight. Also wondered if there as a bad connection between alternator output and the battery at the starter solenoid but voltage readings at the battery terminals and at the output stud on the alternator are virtually identical.
Anyone have any suggestions? Is there something obvious I'm missing. I really don't understand auto electrics at all and after a couple of days with this, I'm ready admit defeat and take to an auto electrician :mad:
Thanks
I'm trying diagnose the problem with my 4bd1 ute's charging circuit, and I could really do with some help :(. OEM 40amp Nippon Denso alternator has been rebuilt by local auto electrician last week. Regulator is 6 months old, solid state, internal fuse good. Pulled dash apart (a mistake, since it was held together with self-tappers, silicone and hope) to check indicator light and found that it's wired differently to the manual's circuit diagram. The Batt/Alt indicator lamp isn't connected back to the regulator harness at all, and the wires that should form that circuit are connect together via a very heavy fuse. Weird, since I thought it wouldn't have ever worked without the indicator lamp in the regulator circuit?
Anyway, since it wasn't working anyway, I wired it up as per the diagram - power from 'ign on' to indicator light with correct (Brown/yellow) wire to regulator - and lamp I substituted into the circuit works as expected - ie comes on with ignition, start engine and flickers at very low idle, touch throttle and permanently goes out. However, no charge to battery. I make a temporary patch harness in engine bay, power to regulator direct from battery, both with lamp and without, lamp behaves as it should and I do get some response at battery, reading goes from 12.1v at idle to about 12.9 at max revs (regardless of whether lamp is in circuit or not though).
Final test is to bypass regulator entirely and jump sense wire to battery. If I understand some of the stuff I've read, I should get full voltage from alternator - 15-16+ v - to battery? Instead, only get about 13.5, and that's at very high revs. So could all the problems be that the alternator is simply not showing enough voltage to the regulator? Can't work out why it should be the alternator though; newly rebuilt, belt is tight. Also wondered if there as a bad connection between alternator output and the battery at the starter solenoid but voltage readings at the battery terminals and at the output stud on the alternator are virtually identical.
Anyone have any suggestions? Is there something obvious I'm missing. I really don't understand auto electrics at all and after a couple of days with this, I'm ready admit defeat and take to an auto electrician :mad:
Thanks