About to buy a Perentie. What things should I know and look out for?

[whatthe]

I'm about to purchase a 1989 FFR perentie soft top with 116000kms (apparently). It one of those recently sold at auction here in Sydney.

I don't know anything more about it or perentie(s) in general. Apart from I want one

What things should I look out for on the inspection?

I'm buying it to go to the pilbura and western Australia at Christmas.

What recommendations do you guys have. In regards to trip and car prep before hand.

Also does anyone know what kind of fuel economy they get. So I can plan my fuel amounts.

Any info appreciated. Thanks P

[87County]

Depending on its condition a fair bit of preventative maintenance and trip prep would be in order before a trip like you are going to be doing.

Depending on the records if any, the following would be good to do...

Obviously fluids, oils, lubes, belts, and filters should be changed and hydraulic systems will need a good looking at.

Again, depending on the records (if any) it would be good to have the radiator rodded.

The tyres also could need some critical inspection. Personally, I have changed them for tubeless using D1 rims. If you do something like that you'll have extra spares.

You can expect around 10km per litre if sensibly driven.

If you haven't got a use for 24v you could consider removing the 24v generator and system to save weight and give some extra storage space. I've adapted ours for extra led lighting and the Engels, all of which can use 24v.

Best of luck with your trip - they can be hot to drive in the summer :) a lot of heat comes through the bulkhead and the floor.

[isuzurover]

Fuel economy will largely depend on how heavily loaded you are, how hard you drive and the conditions. e.g. I have experienced anything from 9 L/100 lightly loaded and not going over 80 km/h to 24 L/100 driving into 100 km/h headwinds with a tall roof rack (3rd gear was the highest it would pull and 85 km/h top speed) - however in that case the timing was retarded which probably reduced power and increased consumption.

The average for my 4BD1+T on the canning stock route was about 12-13 L/100 km/h.

No mechanic in northern WA wants to go anywhere near a landrover, so be prepared to work on it yourself.

I will post a list of things to check and spares when I have some more time.

[Welby]

The Pilbara at Christmas will be stinking hot.

Can not emphasise enough the need for water.

[rar110]

Disco 1 rims offset puts the rear tyre too close to the chassis spring cradle which is beefed up on the perentie. The tyre rubs against the chassis. Not badly but enough to cause black scuffing in the chassis.

Wolf rims offset is a bit wide and results in mud getting sprayed up the sides.

I would look for normal stuff on a car that age that's been driven like someone's shooting at you.

Suspension bushes, tie rod ends, and rust in the firewall.

It probably won't have power steering.

[87County]

Disco 1 rims offset puts the rear tyre too close to the chassis spring cradle which is beefed up on the perentie. The tyre rubs against the chassis. Not badly but enough to cause black scuffing in the chassis. .............

:)

heaps of clearance (255 85 BFG MTs on D1 steel rims) - see pic complete with a little bit of real mud - don't think I could get these to scuff on the chassis !

I read somewhere else someone stating something to the effect that anything larger than 7.50 16 wouldn't fit in the spare wheel space .

I can confirm that 255 85s WILL fit the spare wheel space with still a little clearance.

I did let that one go through without comment at the time but I just couldn't let this one go without correcting it.


These posters are asking for information that they need fellas - let's keep it factual for them :)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/519.jpg (http://s708.photobucket.com/user/87county/media/perentierear007_zps774c5ad7.jpg.html)

[Bearman]

I have to back RAR110 up on this one. I tried standard D1 rims on mine with 235/85/16 tyres and also found they rubbed on the top of the spring tower from the dislocation tab to the top of the bracket on articulation.

[87County]

I have to back RAR110 up on this one. I tried standard D1 rims on mine with 235/85/16 tyres and also found they rubbed on the top of the spring tower from the dislocation tab to the top of the bracket on articulation.

well - as you can see in the pic - the tyre is nowhere near the mount

[isuzurover]

well - as you can see in the pic - the tyre is nowhere near the mount

That pic is on level ground.

Post another pic after you crossaxle it.

Even on a civvie 110, standard offset disco 1 rims cause the tyres to rub on the coil turrets.

[flagg]

d1 rims are easy enough to mod for extra clearance. Pick what you want. was $70 a corner when I did mine.

[rar110]

d1 rims are easy enough to mod for extra clearance. Pick what you want. was $70 a corner when I did mine.

True, but add powder coating cost and its the price of a new terrafirma modular steel rim. Disco 1 rims look to be a very solid rim. I ran them for a while and changed to wolf rims because of scuffing on the chassis.

I didn't physically try to fit a 255/85 tyre to the perentie wheel carrier. I just checked the space against the manufacturer specs when looking at tyre options about 5 years ago. If experience shows it fits then happy days - one consequence ruled off the list (availability was the only other one for me from memory). I probably should have made a swing away wheel carrier and put a fuel tank under there instead.

[mudmouse]

If its your first 4WD and (therefore) first big trip, I would't stuff around with aftermarket sized tyres - for many reasons other than economy. Up that way reliability and communication would be my main concern, then naturally additional fuel, oil and things likely to fail that are easy to fix/replace, like uni joints, belts, hoses, brake lines (flexible) and spare tyre(s) condition . Then look at food and fluids - how will you store them and keep them from perishing, and how will you secure the vehicle if you have to leave it unattended. Check your tool/recovery kit and know how to use it (practice).

Looking at the current sale prices of private sale vs. auction, I imagine the one your looking at is carrying a premium because it's 'fitted out' for a trip?

Anyway, keep it simple (like the vehicle was designed) and it'll keep you out of the trouble a modified one can present - particularly for a first trip.

Have fun mate, you'll love it!

Matt.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Pilbara from Sydney/ACT by Christmas? That gives you a month or less to familiarise yourself with an old, potentially abused vehicle before driving right across the country. A vehicle that will likely be a sensory overload (noise, temperature, vibrations, smells, tasty dust!) compared to what most are used to these days. With no security for your gear in the back.

Apart from being crazy, that sounds like a fantastic adventure. Need a co-pilot?

[gusthedog]

Firstly, put some heat and noise insulation in, you'll need it :D

Secondly, in remote areas, stick with 235/85s or 750/16s as they are a common size. And learn how to properly change split rims as they are pretty easy and much easier to change a tyre on than on a tubeless rim.

Check out:Beadell Tours - Tubeless vs Split Rims - Safety & Tyre Repair issues by Mick Hutton (http://www.beadelltours.com.au/rim_debate.html)

And follow others advice on lubrication/filter changes.

[whatthe]

Pilbara from Sydney/ACT by Christmas? That gives you a month or less to familiarise yourself with an old, potentially abused vehicle before driving right across the country. A vehicle that will likely be a sensory overload (noise, temperature, vibrations, smells, tasty dust!) compared to what most are used to these days. With no security for your gear in the back.

Apart from being crazy, that sounds like a fantastic adventure. Need a co-pilot?

I have a waiting list of co-pilots waiting for a space.!

[whatthe]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

So far I'm planning on going with the original wheel and tires combo. Just need an extra one so that I have two spares.

I'm looking into having two tool boxes made to run up either side of the landie. Bolted in they should give me my storage and some security. I will also try and get locks fitted to the land rover before I go.

I'm more concerned with making the thing mechanically reliable for the trip there, (back would be nice too). So apart from the usual servicing, I was looking for further info.
Should I change out the water pump/rad.. What about the injectors? There seems to be a little surface rust on the block, rocker cover so on. I'm taking a guess it may have been stood a while. Mind you when I visited the auctions 1st time. They all pretty much looked the same.

We are planning to set of on Christmas day, if all goes to plan. So if anybody is going in that direction. Let me know...

[steveG]

Injectors don't seem to give any issues.
I'm assuming the Perentie 4bd1 has the standard gauze filter in the inlet to the lift pump - so make sure you have 17mm spanner that will remove the banjo bolt to get to that and clean it out should you need to.

Pull the fan belt off and have a wriggle/spin of the water pump shaft. Unless its rough/noisy I'd reckon it will be OK. Give it a squirt of grease if it has the grease nipple on the side.

My 4bd1 isn't hard on the cooling system, so as long as the radiator is in reasonable condition (no leaks and fins haven't corroded off) I wouldn't worry.

Steve

[rar110]

I agree injectors seem to last.

Fitting an off the shelf in line petrol filter (20 micron from memory) just before the lift pump in the engine bay will capture any junk which could block up the gauze filter in the lift pump. Changing an in line filter is easier than accessing the gauze filter.