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Phoenix
17th February 2004, 10:01 AM
I am thinking about begining to fix up the paint job on grover recently.

The paint codes I already have (care of REMLR), but is it neccessary to spray everywhere?

I am going to begin with the cab area. I still have some glue to remove from the carpet that was there, but I was thinking of rolling or brushing in the cab as I don't have immediate access to spray gear, and I don't need to do as much preperation to prevent overspray.

Is the finish with this kind of painting ok, or does it look terrible?

landrovermick
18th February 2004, 07:38 AM
hmm they seem to roll and or brush a lot of landrovers in the UK- i have seen various articles in Wrecks to Ritches where they have hand painted.

I cant see how this can produce a good result but then i have never seen the finished product in the end.

mick

Mick-Kelly
18th February 2004, 11:11 AM
Really depends what sort of finish your talking, if its olive drab youll probably get away with using a foam roller. Mind you ive heard the AJ's used to paint up their beasts with a broom dipped in paint. I used a foam roller for some of mine and it works really well with enamel gloss.
cheers
Mick

Phoenix
18th February 2004, 11:33 AM
That's what I figured as at best the finish wopuld be described as satin, and certainly not gloss.

I think i'll spray the bodywork, but I reakon that the roller will do the trick in the cab.

Thanks all style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

VladTepes
18th February 2004, 12:03 PM
Originally posted by Phoenix
...cab area. I still have some glue to remove from the carpet that was there...

Carpet ? Are you sure you've got a Land Rover there old boy ?

VladTepes

Phoenix
18th February 2004, 12:22 PM
Yeah, previous owner had glued in a crappy beige carpet with this bright orange glue. I still have't got all of the glue off yet :roll:

DionM
19th February 2004, 07:42 AM
As part of the tidyup of the Rangie I was going to give the footwells and loadspace / tailgate innards a touch of paint just to protect the metal and tidy things up.

As this will be covered by the carpet and the rear storage area I build, I figured that just painting it by hand is probably the easiest optoin. I was going to use some of the rust-inhibitor paint too ...

However for the tailgate I was wondering if you can buy that thick stuff they line ute trays with etc? Is that a paint-on type of product?

Phoenix
19th February 2004, 08:47 AM
Isn't that some kind of tar or rubber compound?

VladTepes
19th February 2004, 09:58 AM
Yep. If it's what I'm thinking off it's known as 'spray on ute-liner'. Not cheap for a whole ute but if you ask around at a few ute places you never know what you might find out.

UncleHo
20th February 2004, 11:51 PM
Hi Phoenix style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
If you are using good old "Lusterless Olive Drab" Spraying Enamel it can be brushed on with good results, don't thin that stuff any more than 10o/o or it will run of the surface you are painting , another tip, stir it up VERY well as the pigment and flatterner sticks to the bottom of the can, a good 10 minutes, use a good quality brush 25-40 mm small sections at a time as it dries in about 10-15 minutes
If spraying thin only 10o/o with general purpose enamel thinners
regards Rocket :wink:

Phoenix
23rd February 2004, 09:04 AM
Thanks rocket, but what is 10o/o?

Also, another question, REMLR lists 2 paints, one is the lustreless, the other needs the flattener, is that correct? Do they both produce the same finish?

sandie
23rd February 2004, 09:37 AM
I'm part way through painting Sandie and am using a small compressor with 1 part enamel. Looks good and is really easy to use. Nice gloss finish with little drama.

For your beasty the drab should spray quite easily and is worth the relatively small investment in a compressor; once you've got one you'll be shocked how many jobs you use it for! (well I am anyway)

The real reason for the post is the ute liner comment a few replies ago. I enquired about that stuff to use as sound and heat insulation and you need to go to the distributor/supplier and they do the job on site as it needs specialist equipment. I reckon that's not the go, so asked a panel beater mate and he put me on to a spray material they use under guards as a chip protector and sound deadener. You need a special 4mm nozzle gun which he got for me, plus I used 6 1 litre bottles of this black stuff. Its a bit messy but the difference just in tapping the floor of the tub with a hammer is quite noticable.

I simply turned the tub over and applied 3 or 4 coats of this stuff everywhere under the tub and wheel arches. Built up about 3mm of the stuff which seals seams and really deadens sound.

Also done under the wings, the 2 bits of the gear stick housings and the seat box and will do the floor panels once re-assembled. I reckon I'll need 2 more bottles but will have sprayed under the entire landy, sealing seams and providing excellent sound reduction for an all up cost inc the gun of under $100. The only remaining issue will be the firewall but I'm thinking of the stick on heat shield stuff for that. Any ideas or comments?

Cheers
Richard

incisor
23rd February 2004, 10:17 AM
Originally posted by Phoenix
Thanks rocket, but what is 10o/o?

100% less 90%

style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif

he hasnt found that key on his keyboard yet

morning rocket!

Phoenix
23rd February 2004, 11:46 AM
:oops: makes sense now that you mention it, these keyboards can be confusing things style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

Maybe I should search for some spray gear to borrow and spend the time masking up?

Some things to think about at least style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

Outlaw
24th February 2004, 01:27 PM
Heya Phoenix, i've got a little Warner Airless Spraygun which has been working well for me for the last couple years. You get them for about $150 from memory from Bunnings (don't quote me on the price though), but they are still a lot cheaper than the compressor versions. Just plug it in an extention lead and you're away!! 8)

Phoenix
24th February 2004, 01:52 PM
interesting idea, what is the finish like?

UncleHo
24th February 2004, 05:42 PM
style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif Hi Phoenix
I have now found the % key it was hidding on top of the 5 :oops: the paint that I used on "Aggie" my 68 GS was Wattyl Lusterless Enamel Olive Drab Wattyl Code 516-31088 741382

Defence Department Code 8010-66-025-5002
it is spraying enamel the Thinners that I used were those recommened to me and they are Wattyl AQ 655 Enamel Thinners UN 1993 901-19062 that is directly off the tin(4ltrs)

the 10% means 100mls of thinners to 1litre of lusterless olive drab
YOU MUST STIR THIS STUFF VERY WELL WITH A BROAD PADDLE
any greater thinning and it will run off the job :oops: 8O :twisted:
Ihave brushed this with good results style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif The lusterless olive drab comes with the flattener already in it style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

Phoenix
25th February 2004, 08:50 AM
Thanks rocket.

I think that i'll start there. That is what I thought about the flattner, I just wanted to check in case I got it wrong :oops:

That isn't much thinners, but then again, last time I was spraying something, it was varnish, and that is a bit different.

Would you still thin it out if you were brushing? Thinning is only for spraying isn't it?

Yes, I have lots of questions, but why make mistakes that somebody else already has made :wink:

UncleHo
25th February 2004, 04:25 PM
Hi Phoenix. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif
Yes still thin it 10% as it is the drying agent, if you are going to brush the inside of the roof it may be better to start with 500ml of paint and 50mls of thinners, and note the coverage, you can always give a second coat after 6 hours, the biggest problem with the stuff is mixing as in a 4litre tin the pigment and flattener can be up to 25mm+ thick on the bottom and it all has to be mixed as otherwise the colour will vary,(been there done that) was lazy on one occassion and one side of a rear tub was a different colour, guess who had to redo it :oops: the finished product does look quite good, as it ages the green shade fades to the khaki colour as in my avitar :wink:

Phoenix
26th February 2004, 09:22 AM
Thanks for the hints rocket.

ONe question though, do you paint the caping? I have heard no, and I think whoever did the doors last was lazy and painted it.

UncleHo
26th February 2004, 10:01 PM
Hi Phoenix style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif
All the cappings are painted on mine thats how all the army stuff was, if the cappings wern't then it would very hard to camo as the gal bits would stand out and silouette the vehicle, it covers the gal quite well and should not cause to much of a problem style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif