Coolant level sensor

[Homestar]

Where is it?

Reason I ask is that I changed the coolant today - long overdue - and I'm getting this warning up now. The new coolant seemed to bleed up fine - I could see all the air coming out of the little return nozzle in the reservoir, after a while, and a few top ups, it became a steady stream of warm coolant. Took it for a spin to get it to operating temp, then topped it up again. The reservoir is full, but I get the fault up or low coolant. I've cleared the fault codes and it pops up straight away when I turn the ignition on.

Any ideas on what I'm missing or if I've missed something on the bleeding procedure?

Cheers - Gav.

[RR P38]

Did you loosen the air bleed next to the filler cap atop the expansion tank?

[fraser130]

Gav, I'm not 100% sure, but I vaguely remember reading that some coolants, or if not mixed strong enough, will trigger the warning. I **think** its located on the bottle you add the coolant into, and I'm guessing it works on conductivity (like two probes) and I guess some coolant conducts more/less than others?
I have a low coolant come up after prolonged high (2000+) revs all the time, but the level is fine. I'm running red OAT - can't remember the brand, but it was supposed to be good for 5 years....
Maybe I need to look at mine too and modify it to be less sensitive (i.e lengthen the probes or bend them down)

one day....when I've got nothing to do!

Fraser

[Homestar]

Did you loosen the air bleed next to the filler cap atop the expansion tank?

Yep, got plenty of air out of it and I've put the same amount of coolant back in as I got out. The reservoir is full, it sits on the right temp while driving, I just get a low coolant alarm up constantly.

[Homestar]

Gav, I'm not 100% sure, but I vaguely remember reading that some coolants, or if not mixed strong enough, will trigger the warning. I **think** its located on the bottle you add the coolant into, and I'm guessing it works on conductivity (like two probes) and I guess some coolant conducts more/less than others?
I have a low coolant come up after prolonged high (2000+) revs all the time, but the level is fine. I'm running red OAT - can't remember the brand, but it was supposed to be good for 5 years....
Maybe I need to look at mine too and modify it to be less sensitive (i.e lengthen the probes or bend them down)

one day....when I've got nothing to do!

Fraser

That makes me feel a bit better. I'm using Techalloy Gold - it had a similar green coolant in it - brand unknown, but it was put in by the stealers during a service just before I got it - it is listed on a service in the log book, so replacing like for like. I drained around 10 litres out of it, and put in the correct amount of concentrate for that - topped it up with 2 x 4 ltr and almost 1 x 2 ltr demineralised water bottles.

I didn't see any wires running to the reservoir at all, so I thought the sensor may be somewhere else...

[fraser130]

I just read on RRnet that the specific gravity of the coolant may affect the coolant sensor.
Another "quirk"?

[woko]

They are in the bottle, and they need to have they correct amount of coolant in them. I haven't tried different brands of coolant in them, (as I had only worked on them when they were new) We always used the genuine coolant which was a blue coolant from BMW.

[Homestar]

I just read on RRnet that the specific gravity of the coolant may affect the coolant sensor.
Another "quirk"?

Did it say what the SG was supposed to be? I have a refractometer somewhere, I could check and adjust as required if I knew which way I had to go.


They are in the bottle, and they need to have they correct amount of coolant in them. I haven't tried different brands of coolant in them, (as I had only worked on them when they were new) We always used the genuine coolant which was a blue coolant from BMW.

Thanks - seems strange the LR Dealer that used to look after this car from day one had used green coolant in it at its last scheduled change.

Don't want to open another red versus green argument here, but which way should I go? Or go to the stealers and take it up the arse and buy genuine coolant?

[fraser130]

Did it say what the SG was supposed to be? I have a refractometer somewhere, I could check and adjust as required if I knew which way I had to go.



Thanks - seems strange the LR Dealer that used to look after this car from day one had used green coolant in it at its last scheduled change.

Don't want to open another red versus green argument here, but which way should I go? Or go to the stealers and take it up the arse and buy genuine coolant?

Gav, my understanding is copper rad, iron engine / alloy engine, copper rad = Glycol based, all alloy engine, alloy rad = OAT

Have a look at RRnet for info (although not a great help) Here (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrmkiiiremedies.html#coolant)

Fraser

[harlie]

....

Don't want to open another red versus green argument here, but which way should I go? Or go to the stealers and take it up the arse and buy genuine coolant?

I'm overdue for this job too.

What's the opinion on what should be used?

[Homestar]

I'm overdue for this job too.

What's the opinion on what should be used?

Who knows?:D. Fraser's theory stands up as far as using OAT goes, but mine had glycol in it that was put there by a major dealer. This in turn sounds like it is different from what BMW put in the X5...

Next time I'm in town, I'll drop into the local dealer and see if they can shed any light on the subject.

I've replaced like for like and gone with glycol. Until I can prove otherwise, I'll leave that there.

What is in yours at the moment Harlie?

[harlie]

....

What is in yours at the moment Harlie?

Hard to see, looks blue to me.

According to my records it was changed by the LR dealer at Port Macquarie and was due to be changed last Christmas :D , at which time I couldn't figure out what to get so did nothing.

[Homestar]

Hard to see, looks blue to me.

According to my records it was changed by the LR dealer at Port Macquarie and was due to be changed last Christmas :D , at which time I couldn't figure out what to get so did nothing.

So it could be the factory BMW coolant. Will have to ask the stealers I think.

[woko]

I found this

http://greenoval.homeunix.org/l322/tb/LM303-001%20Coolant%20Spec%20Change.pdf

Castrol net lube also specs Castrol anti freeze NF which is in this bulletin. Its colour is green/blue. Its a glycol coolant but must be a additive in it that the coolant level sensor must have to work.

Here is the product data

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/a/Antifreeze_NF_B1421_00.pdf

[jsp]

hmmm got me thinking about mine - its rather blue in colour, and I have topped up twice with a bit of demineralised water and nothing else as I didn't want to put green glycol in from the P38/classic or red glycol from the mrs magna.

Then again I have been very lazy and looking at the service history its done just over 100k in 4 years on its current coolant.

[harlie]

Ok, so the LR bulletin (woko post) states that Castrol Antifreeze NF is the go. It is a rebadged version of the dealer part PDA500310.

According to the LR bulleton it is a ethylene glycol ... with a silicate non-phosphate corrosion inhibitor

and the Castrol document adds Castrol Antifreeze NF is a nitrite, phosphate and amine free, fully formulated glycol coolant.

It is blue in colour. Some interesting research has revealed that not all green coolants are the same and not all blue are the same.

I was at Repco this morning (25% sale in QLD this weekend, top up on fluids for upcoming servicing). They mainly stock Nulon and reading the Nulon doco shows that NULON BLUE LONG LIFE does not match the description given by LR and Castrol. However their green Long Life Concentrated Coolant is a closer match. Quote Nulon Long Life Coolant is a low silicate formulation containing no nitrate, phosphate or amine.

So it is obvious that green does not necessarily equal green, and blue does not necessarily equal blue.... And I’m too chicken to change colour from what’s in there.

Big question – Where can we buy Castrol NF?

[RR P38]

Mmm, seems that we are beholden to the OEM coolant to me.
Unless we can uncover what the magic potion is that it contains that keeps the low level sensor happy.
I have not had any problems since the OEM coolant has been reinstated.
I quiet agree....Green is not Green and Blue is not Blue.

[woko]

Big question – Where can we buy Castrol NF?
Here's the QLD stockist for castrol. http://castrolthebighaul.com.au/stockists-qld.pdf They may not keep it in stock but they would be able to order it.

[harlie]

Me again.

I’ve only found 2 products that meet the criteria.
1. Valvoline Zerex™ G-05 Antifreeze Concentrate (which is green!!) All other green products I checked don’t match.
2. Castrol NF (mentioned up the page). Which is what the LR/BMW product actually is.

I have not been successful locating either in stock but the favoured Castrol only comes on 20 or 206L drums. As we need about 6L for a change only way $ viable is to split a drum 3 ways. Anyone in BNE area up??

The Valvoline is available in all sizes from 1 to 205L so a 5+1 would do it.

Or it is to the dealer as they will have a 205....

[RR P38]

Penrite seem to have a product that meets the BMW specs for coolant;

Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=6&id_subcateg=67&id_products=328)

[browsing62]

Guy's below is what I used all my research said this meets the required specs minimum order was 4 x 4lts = $167 which included $25 delivery to Clontarf Brisbane. Did a full flush last feb to remove the dealer installed green stuff and had nil issues original change was an attempt to stop transmission going into cooling strategy when doing hard towing with trailer didn't fix that problem but replacing the 75% blocked oil cooler two weeks ago should. They are in Eagle Farm and you can pickup from their warehouse I just found it easier to have it delivered for $25 hope this helps.

Edit: This is for 4.4L BMW engine keep forgetting not everyone drives a V8.

Mobil Antifreeze Extra - Automotive Engine Coolants - East Coast Lubes (http://www.eclubes.com.au/products/view/75/12/automotive-and-commercial-vehicles/automotive-engine-coolants/mobil-antifreeze-extra)

[woko]

I was at super cheap auto this morning and they had Nulon blue coolant in 5L bottles. Has on the label that it is recommended where the following manufacturer’s specification are cited for BMW N 600 69.0. Castrol NF is also recommended for BMW N 600 69.0.

Blue Long Life Premix Coolant- Nulon Australia (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems/Blue_Long_Life_Premix_Coolant/#.UszTVLTlPTk)