Isuzu Twin Oil Filter Spacer Block

[cammac91]

Hi,

I have shamelessly plagiarised the attached drawing for the spacers required to install the truck style twin oil filter.

Regards,
Cameron

[weeds]

just out of interest what material are they made out of?

[rijidij]

You might be aware of it, but remember the top spacer has to have a tapped hole on the side for the oil feed to the turbo, so it's not just a simple shape as in the drawing (see pic below) unless you extend the oil pipe by 60mm to remain in the original connector.

I made the main spacer in the pic by drilling holes because it was the easiest way to do it at the time. Depending how you intend to fabricate them, it might be better to machine them to the correct shape as in the pic of the block below, especially if they're steel as this would be considerably lighter.

Sorry to complicate things, but another method you might want to consider is laser cutting or waterjet cutting for the bottom spacer. This could be made up of 3 x 20mm plates. I would probably do them in aluminium.

Cheers, Murray


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/363.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Oil-Filter-Housing-Spacers.jpg.html)

Original position
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/364.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Turbo-Oil-Feed-1.jpg.html)

This is with the top spacer fitted. You can see the original hole for the oil pipe is fitted with a brass bung.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/365.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Turbo-Oil-Feed.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/366.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Isuzu%204BD1%20_%204BD1T/IMGP2221.jpg.html)

[isuzurover]

You might be aware of it, but remember the top spacer has to have a tapped hole on the side for the oil feed to the turbo, so it's not just a simple shape as in the drawing (see pic below) unless you extend the oil pipe by 60mm to remain in the original connector.

I made the main spacer in the pic by drilling holes because it was the easiest way to do it at the time. Depending how you intend to fabricate them, it might be better to machine them to the correct shape as in the pic of the block below, especially if they're steel as this would be considerably lighter.

Sorry to complicate things, but another method you might want to consider is laser cutting or waterjet cutting for the bottom spacer. This could be made up of 3 x 20mm plates. I would probably do them in aluminium.

Cheers, Murray


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/363.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Oil-Filter-Housing-Spacers.jpg.html)

Original position
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/364.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Turbo-Oil-Feed-1.jpg.html)

This is with the top spacer fitted. You can see the original hole for the oil pipe is fitted with a brass bung.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/365.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Turbo-Oil-Feed.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/366.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Isuzu%204BD1%20_%204BD1T/IMGP2221.jpg.html)

The bolded sections are very good points.

However the first point is only relevant if you are using the OE turbo feed location???

Bojan and I lasercut our adaptors from 12 mm steel plates. Lots of sanding then ensued against a glass sheet to make sure they were flat.

***An important point to note is that the thickness of the top spacer needed to be about 4 mm different between Bojan's vehicle and mine. There seem to have been some changes in the oil cooler and associated pipework over the years (and/or machining of the block face lower down). So bear that in mind - some finishing may be required!

[cammac91]

Firstly thank you to Murray and isuzurover for the design tips, I guess this raises a few issues;

- Material selection, I had assumed aluminium to keep the weight down any objections to this?

- Bottom spacer, does anyone have any dimensions for the two profiles that need to be separated? the current drawing is not really enough to give to a shop.

- Top spacer, I think it would be much easier to construct the block as per the diagram and to reroute the oil feed from the turbo (if installed), especially with no known dimensions for a set up similar to Murrays'.



Regards,
Cameron

[steveG]

Murray has a factory 4bd1t, so had the factory pipe to adapt to. Most on here have NA engines or ones that have been turbo'd.
If they are already turbo'd chances are the oil feed is coming from elsewhere - likely the vac pump. If fitting the twin filters at the same time as a turbo conversion then the oil feed can be picked up from the filter housing, or alternatively the spacer could be drilled/tapped for a fitting, and hoses made to suit.
From my perspective I'd recommend not worrying about allowing for the factory oil feed in the upper spacer. Easy enough to extend the existing pipe, and won't affect most people anyway.

Something to note is that the NA oil pipe between housing and oil cooler (not sure about the factory turbo one) has an o-ring grooves in each flange for sealing rather than gaskets. I'm guessing Isuzu had a good reason for doing that rather than the gasket.
If it wasn't going to add much to the cost I'd prefer the upper spacer had the same o-ring groove to seal to the oil cooler.

What might also be of interest/value to people, is for a group buy of the longer bolts and HT threaded rod for fitting - effectively ending up with a "kit" to fit the housing. The rod in particular is quite dear - about $90/m from memory, and you don't need the whole length. Worthwhile to sort out amongst individual members if it doesn't happen on a group basis.
If it was possible to get long enough bolts instead of using the rod would be even better.

I've got the material here to make my own, but its a PITA job doing it by hand :angel:

Steve

[steveG]

BTW - think I've still got a twin filter housing buried in my shed somewhere, so could dig it out and trace/scan the profile if nobody else has existing drawings etc.

Realistically though, the bypass hole side only needs a single 12mm hole (oil flow through filter is via ~1.5mm restrictor then back into block), and on the full flow side a couple of 12mm holes would probably be enough. Think it really only needs to be a bit larger than the supply hole from the block. If the spacer material is aluminium they will be light anyway and it would turn the job into just drilling a few holes rather than milling the profile to match the housing.

Steve

[Offender90]

I've drawn some up earlier for Ben and I - will have to have a rummage through my archives to see what I can dig up.

Regarding the material - Aluminium is a good way to go - both for weight saving, and if you have to sand it flat (the plates can warp a bit when laser cut) it hopefully won't take a whole day to do by hand.

I traced the twin oil filter dimensions for the top mount - a word of warning, there was a slight mismatch in the bolt hole width between the N/A engine and twin oil filter. I had to widen the mounting holes on the top 3 plates in order to make the spacer fit (see below).

http://imageshack.us/a/img401/6842/29052010107.jpg

To illustrate what Ben mentioned earlier - you'll notice in the above photo the front spacer is a bit thinner than the others (8mm thick vs 12 for the others). The top spacer ended up being 56mm thick while the bottom was 60mm. I understand not all engines are this way, so it may be worth while checking if the mounting faces on yours align. (BTW, I used the outlet on the twin filter housing for my turbo oil pickup).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Also, if I was to do it again, I would make the dividing wall on the bottom spacer a bit wider than they turned out (I think they were 5mm on ours) - not the greatest photo but enough to give you an idea.

http://imageshack.us/a/img156/5683/29052010108.jpg

Lastly, bear in mind there's still a bit of work once they're cut. The laser-cut edge leaves a flaky scale (visible on the outside of the first pic) that should be taken off before assembling. Come to think of it, it may be different with aluminium (and perhaps easier to remove).

Anyway, hope that's of some use, and I'll see what I can dig up in the way of drawings.

Cheers

Bojan

[steveG]

Interesting that you had the hole mismatch. I had similar but figured it was due to my engine being an early Stage1 with maybe slightly different oil cooler.
IIRC I re-made my spacer to suit the oil cooler holes, and slotted the pipe flange slightly. I may have even posted about it in my conversion thread.

Was that twin filter assy off a genuine turbo engine? Pretty sure mine was off a 4be1 so didn't have the turbo oil feed fitting.

Steve

[isuzurover]

...

Lastly, bear in mind there's still a bit of work once they're cut. The laser-cut edge leaves a flaky scale (visible on the outside of the first pic) that should be taken off before assembling. Come to think of it, it may be different with aluminium (and perhaps easier to remove).

...

The easy way to get the scale off is using a quick dip in acid. Wish we had thought of that before we sanded it off.

[rijidij]

Interesting that you had the hole mismatch. I had similar but figured it was due to my engine being an early Stage1 with maybe slightly different oil cooler...................

Steve

The centers of the holes for the top pipe are different by 3mm from my factory 4BD1T to the 4BB1 I have in the shed.

The great thing about laser cutting or CNC machining is you could elongate the holes like this to allow for both. Someone else might want to confirm the centers on a 4BD1 N/A. Mine are 45mm for the 4BD1T and 42mm for the 4BB1. I would expect late (~'88 on) 4BD1 N/A's to be the same as the turbo block.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/236.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Isuzu%204BD1%20_%204BD1T/Top-Spacer_zps9e6ffa59.jpg.html)

If I were making them from Ally, I would go with Bojan's suggestion and make the sections a bit thicker as weight is not an issue...........something like this, 12mm outer walls and 10mm inner divider. As Steve said earlier, one hole for the oil would be sufficient, so the thicker walls wouldn't impact on flow rate at all.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/237.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/rijidij/media/Isuzu%204BD1%20_%204BD1T/Bottom-Spacer_zpsbd1db50d.jpg.html)


If you do decide to go with laser or CNC of some sort, I'd be happy to provide the DXF files (or IGUS etc) if you need them. As you can see, I already have the parts files, but I would need to confirm dimensions.

Cheers, Murray

[rijidij]

.......................What might also be of interest/value to people, is for a group buy of the longer bolts and HT threaded rod for fitting - effectively ending up with a "kit" to fit the housing. The rod in particular is quite dear - about $90/m from memory, and you don't need the whole length. Worthwhile to sort out amongst individual members if it doesn't happen on a group basis.
If it was possible to get long enough bolts instead of using the rod would be even better.................................

Steve

You might get away with using standard threaded rod, but I wasn't prepared to take the risk. I think I paid $57 for a meter for H/T, but that was a while ago. It was enough to do 2 sets IIRC.
I couldn't get bolts long enough at the time. I ended up Loctiting the rods into the block and using nuts on the ends.

Cheers,. Murray

[steveG]

You might get away with using standard threaded rod, but I wasn't prepared to take the risk. I think I paid $57 for a meter for H/T, but that was a while ago. It was enough to do 2 sets IIRC.
I couldn't get bolts long enough at the time. I ended up Loctiting the rods into the block and using nuts on the ends.

Cheers,. Murray

Me either.
You must have fitted your adapter before you put the engine in, as the spacer wouldn't fit over studs once in the chassis. Mine only has about 20mm between the chassis and the nuts on the long rods. I turned my threaded rod into bolts by welding some nuts on them.

Steve

[dobbo]

Sorry to sound a tad naïve but what's the advantage? Is it so you can use readily available truck filters, use the cleaner to change screw on type filters or does the system daisy chain the filters allowing you to prolong the oil life?

[steveG]

The big fat filter is a bypass filter to take smaller particles out of the oil. Some of the oil that goes into the housing is taken via a restrictor and goes through that filter then back into the sump (so not daisy-chained).
The NPR trucks with 4bd1t had this setup, and had a 12000 km oil change period specified.

For me, cleaner oil, longer changes (I try to change mine at 10K), and easy spin on filters are all good reasons :)

Steve

[dobbo]

How tall are these filters and how low do the downward facing filters sit? Will they fowl the axle housing with the vehicle flexed up? If not how much clearance is there?

[dobbo]

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/9352/29052010110.jpg

Bojan

This image answers my question.

[Offender90]

This image answers my question.

The filters would foul on the driveshaft without the spacer - hence the need to fabricate one.

The original perentie setup looks like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/886.jpg

Or more specifically, I'm led to believe the top bracket is an early version (2 piece) of a 4BD1T spacer and the bottom bracket is the late version (single piece) for either a 4BD1 or a 4BD1T.

Cheers

Bojan

[workingonit]

Hi guys,

interesting thread.

I'll soon be starting my project to fit a 4BD1T and matching Isuzu five speed into a Range Rover Classic.

Having read this thread I'm still not entirely clear on the reasons for the extensions. Are the extensions simply required to allow fitment of twin filters? And all things being equal do the extensions replicate the position of factory fitted twin filters?

In other words if my turbo engine already has the factory fitted twin filter will I find that the filter assembly will hit the chassis rail or drive shaft - therefore I should also be interested in these extensions?

Regardless, I did wonder whether the twin filter could be remote mounted and plumbed to respective points on the engine, using appropriately machined cover plates.

On the funny side, seeing all the stacked plates siliconed together makes me think yep, this is what LRover would do - plenty of scope for leaks.

Cheers.

[123rover50]

Hi guys,

interesting thread.

I'll soon be starting my project to fit a 4BD1T and matching Isuzu five speed into a Range Rover Classic.

Having read this thread I'm still not entirely clear on the reasons for the extensions. Are the extensions simply required to allow fitment of twin filters? And all things being equal do the extensions replicate the position of factory fitted twin filters?

In other words if my turbo engine already has the factory fitted twin filter will I find that the filter assembly will hit the chassis rail or drive shaft - therefore I should also be interested in these extensions?

Regardless, I did wonder whether the twin filter could be remote mounted and plumbed to respective points on the engine, using appropriately machined cover plates.

On the funny side, seeing all the stacked plates siliconed together makes me think yep, this is what LRover would do - plenty of scope for leaks.

Cheers.
Yes its to clear the front shaft.

[steveG]

Remote mounting is definitely another option, and has been done before.

For me, the twin filter housing is readily available (around $50 from truck wrecker when I last bought one), spacers aren't that big a deal to fabricate, and on a 110 the filters are in an otherwise unused space, nicely out of the way but easy to get to for changing etc.
I'm also quite fond of the "less connections means less places to leak" approach.

Steve

[isuzurover]

...

On the funny side, seeing all the stacked plates siliconed together makes me think yep, this is what LRover would do - plenty of scope for leaks.

Cheers.

The stacked plates is what Bojan and I have, because 12 mm was the thickest the laser cutter could cut without distortion.

The setup hasn't leaked a drop in the several years and many km since installation. Wish I could say the same for some other parts of the vehicle.

[cammac91]

Nugget from this forum has offered to make them in his own workshop.

They will be the drilled type, similar to the set that Rijidij made. i.e. they will not be the same profile as the filter. This is because it will make them cheaper and easier to manufacture.

Nugget is in the process of setting up an online store. These spacers will be a permanent item in the store once set up, however I am not sure at this stage whether they will be sold in a kit with threaded rod and fixings.

[flagg]

Thanks Cameron, that's great. Nuggets work is top notch :) appreciate your effort.

[cammac91]

Nugget has bought some aluminium to make up a trial set.
The plan is to fit one to my car, just to make sure everything is right before they are sold.

There will potentially be two types of spacers made, one for truck motors that already have the existing two holes in the block (one for primary, one for bypass). The other would be for factory LR Isuzus that only have the primary hole in the block. The plan would be to cut the spacer so that oil from the hole could enter the bypass or the primary filters.
Are there any major issues with this?

The only diagram is attached (hijacked from another thread).

[cammac91]

Just looking at the diagram, it looks as though the bypass hole is actually for the return.

Can anyone confirm this?

This would mean that factory Isuzus would have to drill out the hole in the block (doesn't sound like a nice job).

[steveG]

Can't see how your one hole spacer can work. The bypass filter needs the second hole through the block to return oil to the sump.

Steve

[steveG]

Typed my last post on my phone so sorry it was a bit brief.

Oil feed for both filters comes from the same place - the single hole as found on a single filter setup.
Return oil from the bypass filter in the twin filter setup goes into the other cavity on the block, and needs to have the hole through the block into the sump so it can return, otherwise no flow and the bypass filter would just be an expensive blanking plate.

Easy to drill the drain hole for the bypass, but ideally you'd want to drop the sump to clean out the swarf. That's what I did with mine after effectively carrying it around for a few thousand K's with no hole :angel:

Steve

[isuzurover]

As Steve says...

Both sides of the full flow filter are pressurised. If you tried to tee the bypass filter outlet to the same place as the FF it would not flow.

The only way around drilling the block would be to run a separate drain for the bypass filter out the side of the housing to the sump pan or similar. IMHO this would be more work than drilling the block and would give more potential places for leaks.

[cammac91]

Thanks for the swift responses.

Approximately what diameter should the hole in the block be?

Regards,
Cameron

[isuzurover]

Thanks for the swift responses.

Approximately what diameter should the hole in the block be?

Regards,
Cameron

The factory hole is around 16 mm, but even 10 mm would be fine. Bush65 has posted a pic of the hole on a 4BD1T before.

[steveG]

The factory hole is around 16 mm, but even 10 mm would be fine. Bush65 has posted a pic of the hole on a 4BD1T before.

Mine wouldn't be any bigger than 12.5mm as that's the biggest plain shank drill that will fit in my chuck.
The diameter of the drain on my turbo is probably only 10mm, and fed via a 1.6mm restrictor without any drainage issues, so I also agree that practically 10mm would be plenty big enough.

Steve

[cammac91]

Nugget made the first prototype last week, my job over the long weekend has been to fit it.

Attached are some photos of the process.
First photo is a grainy photo of all the kit to be installed.
Four lengths of M10x1.25 HT Rod were cut.
2 x 110mm
1 x 195mm
1 x 210mm

Second photo is a picture of the old cartridge style filter once removed from the block.

Third photo is the side of the block with old filter removed.

Fourth is a picture of the filter profile before being drilled. Note it has cast in plug where the hole needs to be drilled.

Fifth is a picture of the engine block internals once the sump was removed. Note the threaded hole was for one of the four bolts was not blanked and went all the way through the block. No idea why?

[cammac91]

First two photo didn't seem to upload.

If someone can tell me how to insert photos into my text I would love to know

[cammac91]

Next photo is from the sump again, this time with the 10mm hole drilled through.

A photo of the filter profile with hole drilled.

A photo of the spacer with the filter profile gasket, showing where the holes are.

Next photo is of the main filter housing installed with the bottom spacer.

Last photo is of it all installed.

All in all, not that difficult to install.
There will be one change for future spacers - the top spacer has M8x1.25 bolts through to the engine block. The holes in the spacer I used were 12mm diameter, going forward they will be 10mm diameter.

Will talk to Nugget tomorrow about timing of the first batch.
I think the plan is to make them into a kit with M10x1.25 HT Rod, not sure about the M8x1.25 rod yet.
Hopefully they will go for sale shortly on Nugget's new website!

Will update later this week when everything is cleared up.

Thanks again for the interest,
Cameron

[nugge t]

Hi everyone.

Firstly thanks to Cameron for the time and effort he has put into doing the ground work.

With a couple of small mods it all looks good to go. I am happy to provide the full kit for $180.00 plus freight. The kit will include :-

the 2 manifolds CC machined from Aluminium billet
HT rods cut to length
HT bolts, nuts, washers and spring washers

The only requirement from my end is that a minimum of 5 sets is ordered and paid for before I start cutting. Delivery would be approx 1 week from receipt of the 5th payment being received.

Kits will be available later as a single buy but the price would be $260.00 plus freight. I will include them on my website which should be up in a week or so..watch this space...

If anyone has any questions, please send me a PM or you are more than welcome to call me on 0414 778 668.

Cheers
nugget

[Vern]

Parts arrived today, thanks nugget and everyone else involved:).
Now i just need to find a twin filter housing and pipe.:(

[ausdet]

Cheers nugget, package received - great work.

[workingonit]

Thanks Nugget, good work. Got mine from the post office today. Didn't expect them to be one piece items - bonus - must have missed something in the thread, I expected the multi-layer format.

General point for all. Still getting familiar with the engine. Regarding the smaller single oil channel unit. The old unit has a pipe running off to the turbo. To me, once the new extension unit is installed and capped with the old unit this pipe will need lengthening - cut and lengthened with new pipe silver brazed for example. Or entirely replace with something longer. It also looks to me like it might be possible to tap and thread the new extension unit, missing the bolt holes in the process, and saves altering the turbo pipe. How are others approaching this?

[Albert]

Just received mine thanks Nugget.
Looks great, I love the inscription on it.
It has got my mrs baffled to what it is, and what a nugget stuff is :Rolling:
She will be goggling it soon.
It is now sitting proudly on my desk..... with my turbo....and disc brake adapter etc etc.

[nugge t]

One kit still available at the group buy price if anyone is interested. Full details in "The Verandah" or PM me.

Cheers

[Bearman]

Just an update, this thread has been edited to remove the the initial group buy that didn't eventuate but the rest of the information has been retained.

[123rover50]

Just getting around to thinking about fitting this kit.
Forgot I might have to drill the block.
Came with 4 lengths of of threaded rod, I guess for the main housing and 2 bolts and nuts.
How do the bolts and nuts work for the top extension as I thought they would be studs also. Can I drill and tap this top extension for a turbo feed?
Does it need a restrictor?

[steveG]

I made my own spacers, but took the turbo feed off the main filter housing as there was already a port there to use. Can't recall if it was blanked originally or had a line fitted that I didn't have on my engine.
AFAIK there's no need for a restrictor unless you're running a ball bearing turbo. My old setup was AN-4 size hose and fittings, and onto the turbo banjo fitting. Definitely an unrestricted fitting.
My new HX30W setup is working fine with same hose etc, but I had to get a new (larger) banjo and bolt to suit.

Definitely need to drill the block or the bypass filter just sits there with no flow. Don't ask me how I know [bigwhistle]

Steve

[Bigbjorn]

It would be nice if persons posting photos did so in a system that allows me to open them instead I get a message to contact Photobucket.

[weeds]

It would be nice if persons posting photos did so in a system that allows me to open them instead I get a message to contact Photobucket.

This is a very old thread......and photobucket changed their rules, sadly a lot of threads have lost pics.

[Zcoota]

The big fat filter is a bypass filter to take smaller particles out of the oil. Some of the oil that goes into the housing is taken via a restrictor and goes through that filter then back into the sump (so not daisy-chained).
The NPR trucks with 4bd1t had this setup, and had a 12000 km oil change period specified.

For me, cleaner oil, longer changes (I try to change mine at 10K), and easy spin on filters are all good reasons :)

Steve

Ooops, I've got the cartridge type and have been doing 10k changes, should they be 5k ?


Also just wondering were the truck twin spin on housing different to the 6x6 Turbo housing? I wouldn't mind going spin on from the convenience perspective and have found a 6x6 Turbo housing and was wondering if I'll have to get the spacer anyway ?

Cheers,

Mark

[rar110]

The risk with hanging down in that position is a filter canister will connect with the front prop shaft. The spacer moves the filters out to avoid contact with the prop shaft.

In saying that I think at least one owner has fitted the housing without the spacers.

[123rover50]

Just getting around to thinking about fitting this kit.
Forgot I might have to drill the block.
Came with 4 lengths of of threaded rod, I guess for the main housing and 2 bolts and nuts.
How do the bolts and nuts work for the top extension as I thought they would be studs also. Can I drill and tap this top extension for a turbo feed?
Does it need a restrictor?

Thanks for the replies but I also wondered why the kit came with two nuts and bolts for the top spacer. How do they work?

[asmit]

The centers of the holes for the top pipe are different by 3mm from my factory 4BD1T to the 4BB1 I have in the shed.

The great thing about laser cutting or CNC machining is you could elongate the holes like this to allow for both. Someone else might want to confirm the centers on a 4BD1 N/A. Mine are 45mm for the 4BD1T and 42mm for the 4BB1. I would expect late (~'88 on) 4BD1 N/A's to be the same as the turbo block.



I'm currently going through this process, I have a maybe late 4BD1 (87225C) and the bolt spacing is not the same as a turbo motor. (the N/A oil cooler pipe does not line up with my twin filter housing!)

These engines appear so similar between turbo and N/A but I keep finding subtle differences lol...

I'm going to try using the top half of this pipe and making a new bottom end... wish me luck!

Oh, and I've purchased some M10x1.25 hi tensile threaded rod too... $60-something from united fasteners.
Anyone doing this with the motor in the vehicle, you should be able to double nut the rod out of the block and lower the whole assembly?

In-case anyone is wondering:
AYG473 filter housing to block spacer is NLA from land rover AUS, but KLR have them for $70 (gaskets too)
AYG0474 top spacer is available from land rover AUS for $306
8943402580 filter housing and filters from Isuzu $271+
8941697751 turbo motor pipe to cooler from Isuzu $167+

Also, I think someone has mentioned the oil return from the bypass filter into sump, and it looks like my block DOES have the return hole drilled.

Does anyone know about the oil feed that runs from the filter housing to the front of the timing cover at the center of the injector pump?
Surely it's not lubrication because it is absent on the N/A motor. Is it some sort of timing advance? part number 8944619791

EDIT: Somehow I missed the page where nugget is offering a kit including the spacers for $260. I should have bought that.

[asmit]

Now, I'm not sure how this happened, but I bought isuzu part 8941697751 which is the pipe on the 4bd1T (as per 6x6 RPS) and it is different to the pipe steveG has used. This one has 1/4" BSPT outlet and is thicker, looking like I need the space to be 54mm long and 42mm hole centers... Has anyone else had it like this?

[Bearman]

Now, I'm not sure how this happened, but I bought isuzu part 8941697751 which is the pipe on the 4bd1T (as per 6x6 RPS) and it is different to the pipe steveG has used. This one has 1/4" BSPT outlet and is thicker, looking like I need the space to be 54mm long and 42mm hole centers... Has anyone else had it like this?

Don't forget that the oil coolers are different between the 2 motors. That will, have some bearing on what you are finding.

[p38arover]

I know KLR Automotive have the spacer blocks in stock. I saw one on the desk and asked what it was for.

[asmit]

I know KLR Automotive have the spacer blocks in stock.

I purchased the housing spacer from them, yes, but the top pipe to oil cooler spacer appears is LRA part AYG0474, which is purchasable through land rover AU for $306.

I ended up having that part made by a machine shop locally, cost me $200. The housing spacer block from KLR is $70+.

[asmit]

Cammac

SteveG

Camma, SteveG, does anyone know what the part number is for that pipe you have used?

I used the pipe from the 6x6 4BD1T RPS and my spacer is 54mm long and has 42mm bolt hole centers to match the oil cooler.
I had a recess machined into one side of the oil cooler mating face (for o-ring) to mimic the original 4BD1 pipe.
Then I filed out the holes on the pipe.
Also, the o-ring seal I got from isuzu that is listed in the RPS for the 4BD1 oil pipe to cooler 1096233950 does not actually fit the recess.
I went to a seal shop locally, and got some o-rings to fit.

155479

Here is a list of the parts I used to complete the conversion in the above photo:



qty
price each
part
supplier


1
$70.00
oil filter spacer
KLR


2
$4.00
gasket oil filter housing
KLR


1
$170.00
oil filter housing with filters 8943604181
ebay



1
$66.00
threaded rod M10x1.25 1M length HT
united fasteners


1
$184.23
pipe oil filter to cooler 8941697751
isuzu


2
$5.45
gasket oil cooler pipe o ring 8970265900
isuzu


1
$200.00
spacer 54mm len
eljay engineering


1
$5.00
1/4" bspt blank
powell industrial


1
$2.50
o-ring gasket original oil pipe viton

benco seals


2
$2.50
M8x1.25x110mm (cut off 4mm) HT
bolt shop



$709.67
total




Yes, this ended up being more expensive than I expected, but it's done now, hopefully this does not cause any problems down the track :)