Transfer Case rear output shaft

[Brid]

The nylock nut that holds the park brake drum onto the rear output shaft always works its way loose (even after the recommended double ring of locktite).

I'm inclined to include a lock washer when I fix it this time. Could anyone tell me the shaft diameter of the rear output shaft thread please?

Cheers
Brid

[Ancient Mariner]

The nylock nut that holds the park brake drum onto the rear output shaft always works its way loose (even after the recommended double ring of locktite).

I'm inclined to include a lock washer when I fix it this time. Could anyone tell me the shaft diameter of the rear output shaft thread please?

Cheers
Brid
20x 2.50mm thread
AM

[rick130]

I really dislike lock washers, they aren't worth a pinch of poop IMO.
I trust Loctite applied properly more than any lock washer, unless it's a positive locking type with a tab, eg. stub axle type.

Which Loctite are you using?

The threads need to be very clean for it to hold properly, that means no oil, dirt, etc at all.

If temp is killing it, use 272, it should be good past 200*C

[Brid]

First time it happened, I just retorqued it myself.

Next time was after I had a LR update about the issue & the LR dealers did it with the double ring of loctite procedure.

MR Automotive did it in May this year. I assume they would have done it properly, as they have an excellent reputation for quality work...but it didn't last more and 2-3 months.

Doing it clean and as per spec is all pretty basic stuff & Loctite has had a fair go, so time to try the lock washers.

[Brid]

I haven't seen mention of Pumas with higher kms than mine (240,000km) & it seems that I usually get issues that others haven't yet encountered, so this may be of interest to others at some stage.

While doing the repairs, I could see that MR Automotive had been thorough with both Loctite on the thread as well as adhesive/sealant under the washer (see photo) to stop it rotating with the nut.

However, the nut was loose again...not much better than finger tight, so it confirmed my thoughts that a better method of keeping the nut tight was needed.

Both the rear seal and nut were replaced. The felt washer was originally part of the system, but removed as part of the LR recommended modified repair. I reinstalled a new one as well. The 2 piece Nord-Lock washer is shown placed between the flat washer and the nut.

Holding the drive flange with a crude home made tool, the nut is torqued up hard with a 30mm socket. I think it will work, but only time will tell I guess.

[Jode]

I'm probably missing something here, but did they loctite the nylock? If that's the case I'd bin the nylock and find a standard nut, then loctite that.

[Brid]

Yes... the nylock was loctited too.

[BilboBoggles]

From memory those flanges are mounted onto splines on the output shaft. If those splines or the flange have worn so that there is rotational play then they might cause the nut to untorque itself when the transmission goes from load to no load. So perhaps a new flange might help - or perhaps some shaft lock on the splines?