Fuel pump issue

[TD50WA]

Hi all

My rangie is having a hissyfit and decided not to play nice at the moment.

I've tracked it down to no fuel/pump not working, but checking further the little 10 amp blade fuse under the bonnet is blowing all the time.

It's not the original fuel pump.....aftermarket type been in a couple of years, I hear they tend to fail.....

Could the fuel pump be seized causing the fuse to blow? Besides trying to chase down the entire wire path to look for a short.....
Anyone got any thoughts on this.....don't mind putting in new original fuel pump if that's what it is, but rather not waste money if it's something else I need to fix obviously.

Cheers

Kev

[bee utey]

A worn out pump can easily draw 10A, I'm surprised a fuel pump circuit doesn't run a 15A fuse. I've seen plenty of melted pumps, so unless the harness has been damaged by rubbing through I'd go for a new pump.

[Keithy P38]

I assume you've done the usual fuel filter check/replacement if its a gems motor? I'd imagine a fuel pump wouldn't die because of it (and you seem to be blowing fuses), so it's not likely the issue, but worth checking?

Good luck mate!

Cheers
Keithy

[TD50WA]

I assume you've done the usual fuel filter check/replacement if its a gems motor? I'd imagine a fuel pump wouldn't die because of it (and you seem to be blowing fuses), so it's not likely the issue, but worth checking?

Good luck mate!

Cheers
Keithy

I've not found a filter, and I believe there is only a strainer mesh attached to the pump in the tank.

[Keithy P38]

Gems P38's are equipped with an external fuel filter on the drivers side under the vehicle! Thor P38's have the in-tank one.

Cheers
Keithy

[benji]

I assume the bosch vehicles have a fuel return line.

My brothers d1 and my gems p38 kept blowing the pump fuse, and both were tracked down to a blocked return line.

We assumed as the pump is running at dead-head pressure it draws a lot more. Needless to say the pumps didn't last long.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[bee utey]

I assume the bosch vehicles have a fuel return line.



They don't. The fuel pressure regulator is integral with the pump.

[TD50WA]

Gems P38's are equipped with an external fuel filter on the drivers side under the vehicle! Thor P38's have the in-tank one.

Cheers
Keithy

I shall pump up the air, to give room for my larger personage, and crawl under to investigate!

There is no fuel at the rail, so either blocked line/filter or stuffed pump......maybe both now.

Cheers
Kev

[Hoges]

I shall pump up the air, to give room for my larger personage, and crawl under to investigate!

There is no fuel at the rail, so either blocked line/filter or stuffed pump......maybe both now.

Cheers
Kev

PLEASE put some suitably sized wooden blocks between the bump stops and axle pads to prevent the vehicle from settling on you:eek:

[TD50WA]

PLEASE put some suitably sized wooden blocks between the bump stops and axle pads to prevent the vehicle from settling on you:eek:

Yes, I have the emergency air lines with taps fitted so the valves cannot drop the car automatically, but being a good safety conscious bugger, I also use axle stands when sleeping, err, working under cars.:D

Cheers
Kev

[RoverHse]

I'm also having fuel pump issues. Car starts fine in the morning, but by the afternoon I've got no fuel pressure. Fuel injection repair centre thinks it might be the relay, but all in the box are fine.

Are there any other relays, or worse, could it be the becm?

[Hoges]

Lift the lid of the fuse box in the engine bay and find Relay #12. Remove it. This operates the fuel pump. Find relay #6 which operates one of the HEVAC blower motors. check that it's OK and put it in place of relay #12. See if fuel issues persist... or not.

Usually the relays referred to have a bright yellow casing. Check to see if they have brown burn marks from extended use. This is a known issue with relays operating the fuel pump and especially the blowers. Any sign of brown marks signals time for replacement.

Do a search on this site and you'll find reference to aftermarket relays available locally, which will do the job. suggest you buy ones with diode protection to prevent voltage spikes.
cheers