2.25 oil filter upgrade to spin on filter

[harry]

allo,
somewhere her I read of one of you fine people getting a new oil filter adapter to put on your 2.25 s2a engine, or suchlike.


I have a 2a and it has sat for a couple of weeks out the back and when I backed it out through the garage I noticed that I was leaving a trail of oil.


closer inspection revealed that the oil filter housing was leaking at the top o ring, so out with the trusty spanner and tighten the little bugger up.
stopped the leak, but this bolt was way too tight for normal engineering practice and the little bugger hasn't been very far since it got a new filter and seals.
so I want to change it to a modern spin on filter, but not by using one of those ****ty adapters, I want the real deal, something about safety and aeroplanes in me.


can you advise me where I saw the pictures of this mod in a thread?
is it a factory update, or an aftermarket jigger?


I don't really want to drive off and lose the rest of the oil in the sump, that might make bad noises!!!

[Tikka7mm08]

One of the best little improvements you can make IMHO.

Check out the Rocky Mountain OFA from parabolicsprings.com (from memory). They are in Canada and I had trouble free purchase of 1, bottle opener and iron goat door cards fpr my '78 S3.

[Tikka7mm08]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/151558-series-iii-2-25-petrol-spin-oil-filter-mod.html

[Killer]

FWD Motors in Yeronga sold one to me.

Cheers, Mick.

[S3ute]

Hello from Brisbane.

I recently bought one off a wreck in Zimbabwe for US$50 - the genuine Land Rover part was fitted to the diesel and petrol 2.5 litre motors that came in the early 90/110s. It bolts straight on to where the canister unit is mounted to the block. These were fairly common in the UK and Africa but to my knowledge less so here. It is available new from the various UK outlets (Craddocks, Island etc) but costs around GBP200 plus postage. Supposedly, the odd one comes up on UK eBay for around GBP30-40 but I haven't seen one to date.

The Rocky Mountain units are meant to be pretty good but from my limited understanding have been a bit hard to get in recent times. They list for around GBP70 from memory on the their website. I believe they were being redesigned and this might have been an issue. My various emails to the UK outlet went unanswered so I took the opportunity to source the genuine part off a wreck when I was last in Harare.

Whether it is worth it remains an open question - a lot of people have lived with the canister system for a long time and opinions vary on whether or not the spin ons are any less messy to change etc.

Cheers,

[harry]

thanks for the replies,
i dont want the rocky mountains one as it is just introducing another seal to fail.
ouch on the price of the l.r.series website ones also.
do we have to pay the pommy vat?

[S3ute]

Harry,

Hello again.

I should have listed the Land Rover part number that you are seeking if you go down that route - ETC5347.

You might find this interesting:

Spin on oil filter | My Series III 109 Land Rover (http://www.land-rover.org/tag/spin-on-oil-filter/)

Back when I was toying around with the idea of getting the Rocky Mountain kit I came across a few UK LR chat sites that covered the LR part (including above). They were equally divided between the RM product and chasing down the LR part from wrecks (more readily available in the UK) - main complaint on the RM product was availability and a few suggested leakage problems around the seal. Others thought they were great and had no problems - same responses from a few AULRO posts. One feature of the RM adaptor that I don't see on the LR part is a blanked off port for an oil temperature sensor - might be useful if you planned to fit a gauge.

I went with the LR part simply because I work in Zimbabwe and South Africa from time to time and there are plenty of 2.5 litre motors lying around the place. Hence they are fairly cheap and clean up pretty well compared to the new UK price.

Re VAT on a new part - the answer should be no. Craddocks and the rest usually don't charge VAT on export orders.

Cheers,

[Ozdunc]

I've got an adapter on mine. Picked it up from Pa**ocks. At 143GBP not cheap, but the filters are only 5GBP, and its well made.
You need a new oil sender (metric thread) as well.

Much less messy than the bolt on tin can, and you don't need to faff around trying to get the big O-ring to seat correctly as you do it up.

[Tikka7mm08]

USD$80 for RM product (they improved it) still seems best option? Mine doesn't leak...at least not from the oil filter...!

[incisor]

really need to shout myself one of these........

[Landy Smurf]

I agree if they are $80 from RM that is definitely worth buying

[gromit]

The company below make an interface adaptor to allow a spin on filter to be used with your existing filter mount.
They don't list Land Rover but it might be worth investigating.

Flexolite (http://www.flexolite.co.uk/cat.asp?cID=4)

If you check out their technical section they also mention a remote housing for replacing a bypass filter.


Colin

[Dinty]

I made my own about 25 years ago, let it go with the Land Rover when I sold the engine:(, anyway if I can find n scan an image I will post it up cheers Dennis:angel:
I found the image but I dunno how 2 use the new scanner, so I took a digital image, the photo is bent so it looks distorted, anyway the image of the oil filter adaptor that i made
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2166_zpse79d3c9a.jpg

[ashhhhh]

Honestly I think they're a waste of money, the existing system is hardly difficult to deal with. Takes 2 minutes, you always get a new seal with the filter anyway.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Is there any difference in filtration effectiveness between the short cartridge, long cartridge and spin on filters that'd warrant going to spin on for more than just ease of use?
It can be a real pain finding long filters at times :(

[harry]

Not being new to mechanicking, I just don't like the bucket type as it is prone to failures, mine is probably kangaroo Edward as i needed to over tighten it to stop the oil leak,
One of the best things to happen with aircraft engines was to get rid of this style filter housing.
As for long or short filters, in an air cooled engine the oil is also part of the cooling system, long filters contain more oil, more oil, more cooling
Long filters for me if there is room even on normal engines

[ashhhhh]

I don't know how you get a leak with it, unless the top seal wasn't replaced, or the old one not removed and the groove cleaned.

[harry]

With respect, I actually know how to replace a filter
This was replaced about 1000 k or so ago, and has had intermittent use since it was changed, with no leaks during that time.
Recently it has sat without use for about three weeks without driving, but started now and then, so when I moved it and noticed the leak I then retightened the centre bolt, which stopped the leak, but the tension i had to apply to the bolt tells me there is something wrong, it isn't my ability to fit the filter, so it has to be the forty two year old filter adapter, things that are old do need replacement now and then
Like me!!!

[gromit]

I don't know how you get a leak with it, unless the top seal wasn't replaced, or the old one not removed and the groove cleaned.

There is also the sealing washer under the bolt head. These aren't supplied with the filter so tend to be the original.
Interesting that the parts book lists the washer for the IIa diesel motor but it isn't shown for the petrol or the diesel SII ?


Colin

[ashhhhh]

There is also the sealing washer under the bolt head. These aren't supplied with the filter so tend to be the original.
Interesting that the parts book lists the washer for the IIa diesel motor but it isn't shown for the petrol or the diesel SII ?


Colin

Fair point, but they're available.
If it leaks, something isn't right as mentioned.
I guess my point is that the original design isn't inherently bad, and doesn't really need replacing.
My opinion only!

[chazza]

...
If it leaks, something isn't right as mentioned.
I guess my point is that the original design isn't inherently bad, and doesn't really need replacing. ...


I agree.

One of the seals must be crook, or the thread in the housing is dodgy. It is always easier to undo a bolt with a spanner, than a spin-on with a strap-wrench as well.

However; on the S1 getting at the filter is a nightmare, so a remotely-mounted one is a much better idea,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzurover]

Fair point, but they're available.
If it leaks, something isn't right as mentioned.
I guess my point is that the original design isn't inherently bad, and doesn't really need replacing.
My opinion only!

You are of course entitled to your opinion, however I completely disagree on all points.

The filter is a PITA to change. The 110 county upside down equivalent is even worse.

I would argue the design IS inherently bad, it leaks everywhere, and is a PITA to align when refitting. Not to mention, it is much easier to contaminate when changing filters.

Spin on filters are just MUCH simpler, easier, with less mess.

I never regretted fitting my spin-on filter adaptor.

[gromit]

I guess my point is that the original design isn't inherently bad, and doesn't really need replacing.
My opinion only!

I'd have to agree with your comment.
It's just making a filter change more convenient both in time, less mess and availability of filters (at the likes of supercrap etc.). If you want to pay for convenience........

Colin

[Ozdunc]

No, its not an inherently bad design at all, and I wouldn't have bothered changing it except the housing had split where the pressure sender was screwed in, and getting a new one was more expensive than buying the screw on adapter.

I do think the quality of the screw in filters will be better, larger surface area for better flow, etc.
I'm not sure about the quality of the long filters you get from B*part etc, and the screw ones are OEM.

[incisor]

but who currently has stock?

[harry]

ok, problem solved,
i have a secondhand ETC 5347 on its way to me from British Off Road.

great service and cheap.

[S3ute]

o
i have a secondhand ETC 5347 on its way to me from British Off Road.


Hello again,

Did they give you the model/serial number of the correct filter to go with the ETC 5347 part? I gather there is some variation between different models - the numbers anyway.

I have yet to get around the fitting the unit I bought for my truck and don't have the filter number.

Could be wrong.

Cheers,

Neil

[S3ute]

really need to shout myself one of these........

Hello again.

I happened to be talking to Paxton at BOR this morning about another part and asked if they had any more ETC5347's about.

Apparently the same part was also fitted to the 200TDI motor and they have a few of them down the back being wrecked. I didn't ask about the price.

The filter number is ERR3340 and the cost ~$13-$19 generic to OEM.

Not sure if this helps.

As noted from the trail of responses, opinions vary on whether it is worth swapping to the spin on filter systems. But that's a free choice.

Cheers,

[isuzurover]

Hello again.

I happened to be talking to Paxton at BOR this morning about another part and asked if they had any more ETC5347's about.

Apparently the same part was also fitted to the 200TDI motor and they have a few of them down the back being wrecked. I didn't ask about the price.

The filter number is ERR3340 and the cost ~$13-$19 generic to OEM.

Not sure if this helps.

As noted from the trail of responses, opinions vary on whether it is worth swapping to the spin on filter systems. But that's a free choice.

Cheers,

If they are from a 200Tdi, doesn't it take a Z89A???

[S3ute]

If they are from a 200Tdi, doesn't it take a Z89A???

To be honest - until I spoke to Paxton I thought the adaptor ETC 5347 only came on the 2.5 litre diesels and petrols in the early 90/110s . Apparently, the same part is fitted to the 200TDI motors - his advice, I caution to add, not mine.

When I asked for the correct filter number for ETC 5347 it was given as ERR 3340, which I had also seen once before in a UK parts listing. My hesitation over the numbers in a previous post was because there were various a,b, c etc suffixes with the ERR 3340 filter.

Anyway, I am happy to go with my adaptor, because the fellow I bought it from in Harare said "Yaas baas, dat de one fo de 2.25 mota" and he was a pretty good with his Land Rovers. The advice on the filter came in plainer English, but I have to take it on faith with similar veracity.

Cheers,

[S3ute]

Hello again,

Following on from the last post that queried the oil filter number, I did a quick search of the web and found the following.

According to LR Direct the oil filter with part number ERR3340 fits to all naturally aspirated 2.5 diesels along with 200tdi 300tdi and most V8 up to 2002.

Atlantic British suggest that ERR3340 fits:

Discovery I | '94 - '99
Discovery Series II | '99 - '04
Range Rover Classic | '87 - '95
Range Rover 4.0 (P38) | '95 - '02
Range Rover 4.6 (P38) | '95 - '02
Defender 110 | '93
Defender 90 | '94 - '97
Defender 200Tdi
Defender 300Tdi | All Years 300 Tdi


And from a UK chat site:
.... Would I be correct in thinking I could use one from a 2.5 engine on my 2.25 petrol then? .... If so what part number am I looking for? ....

The 'Adaptor Assembly Oil Filter' used on the all 2.5 variants is the same part number - ERR1347.
The 'Adaptor Assembly Oil Filter' used on the 2250 is ETC5347.
Both are shown with a disposable filter cartridge, ERR3340.

One thing the previous chat site did mention by way of a warning - which warrants checking - is that the attaching bolts to the block for the filter adaptors might be slightly shorter than the originals because the original filter attachment mounting is slightly thicker. Although it appears to tighten up OK, on starting up it may leak oil badly. Not sure if that is a shared experience with people who have fitted adaptors, especially ETC 5347, but obviously warrants serious attention.

Cheers,

[isuzurover]

To be honest - until I spoke to Paxton I thought the adaptor ETC 5347 only came on the 2.5 litre diesels and petrols in the early 90/110s . Apparently, the same part is fitted to the 200TDI motors - his advice, I caution to add, not mine.

When I asked for the correct filter number for ETC 5347 it was given as ERR 3340, which I had also seen once before in a UK parts listing. My hesitation over the numbers in a previous post was because there were various a,b, c etc suffixes with the ERR 3340 filter.

Anyway, I am happy to go with my adaptor, because the fellow I bought it from in Harare said "Yaas baas, dat de one fo de 2.25 mota" and he was a pretty good with his Land Rovers. The advice on the filter came in plainer English, but I have to take it on faith with similar veracity.

Cheers,

ERR3340 cross references to Z89A
Filter Cross Reference : Air Filters, Oil Filters and Fuel Filters :: Ryco Filters :: Automotive Filters Australia (http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/xref/xref/ERR3340)

The suffix is probably just the length. e.g. a Z89A is basically a shorter version of a Z9.

A Z9-type filter fits easily on my RM adaptor, and is probably the lowest cost oil filter type on the market.

[Ozdunc]

Wash my mouth out with a brick, but if a z9 fits then consider a pre 96 filter for a 1FZ-FE engine for an 80 series Toyota
Their OEM filters are some of the best around.
Just buy a texta to blank out the branding:wasntme:

[gromit]

Off topic slightly......
I picked up a couple of the standard filters today that were NOS but missing the O-ring seal.
They have a magnet in the centre to 'catch' any metal particles. Called a Magna Filter they appear to originate from SA.

Colin

[harry]

a bit of an update,
got the replacement oil filter adaptor after a small Christmas postage blockage and after some interference from work, I got to remove the old adaptor and tried to fit the new adaptor.
after cleaning the old gasket off I found that the screw which holds the oil pump and distributor drive gear had loosened and was sitting proud on the mounting face.
so after consulting the Haynes book that came with the car [must get a real manual] I elected to remove the sump.
with the sump off I then needed to remove the oil pump to see what was happening with this problem and some research here discovered that the screw located a bush on the gear which holds the drive gear in place.
so a bit of fiddling, well really ages of fiddling , I managed to get the bush in the right place and the screw back in.


more fiddling and I have modified the top plug on the housing to fit an oil pressure hose and am ready to fit the adaptor then the oil pump and finally the sump, after a trip out to buy some material to make a new sump gasket from.




all this was made easier by not having any of the front axle in the car, but that is another story...

[harry]

ok, step back a bit again.
I sorted the loose bush and refitted the sump and filled it.
lets start it up.....nup!


after some research I found the dissy was not keeping up with the engine when cranking...


also remembered that I forgot to bend the tabs on the oil pump.


oil out, sump off, distributor out.


after some measuring and re reading the previous owners notes, I have come to the conclusion that dodgy motors fitted a distributor that is too short, so to get the thing to drive they lifted the drive gear by loosening the drive gear securing screw and lifted the gear about half an inch and then jammed the bush with the screw.
this way the drive gear was still being driven by the camshaft on the lower part of the gear, when I refitted the drive gear screw correctly the dissy doesn't get driven......
now I have a major hiccup..
I could cheat and redrill the drive gear bush to locate it higher like they just jammed it, but would prefer to do it correctly, so if someone has a standard distributor, I would like to take some measurements to confirm my suspicions.




toddles off to console oneself after a whole days seemingly useless crawling under and over a little land rover, is there anymore of that chinese whiskey in the cellar?

[Carzee]

Any more to the story?

[harry]

Any more to the story?


yes, there is, but as I thought this was going away from the original thread title, I started a new thread.
's2a oil pump/distributor drive problem' in this section.


basically , dodgy motors lost a part and jammed the drive gear higher.
see the other thread.

[incisor]

fitted mine (off a 200TDi) up to madge this afternoon..

down to one type of oil filter to keep in the landy cupboard.. ;)

was a pita to fit but replacing a filter is going to be so much quicker cleaner and simply easier overall...

and i can easily fit an oil cooler later if i want :p

[harry]

dave, I couldn't see why it would have been hard, mine would have been a breese if dodgy motors hadn't tricked the system.
but congratulations,


now do you have a gearbox for sale?

[incisor]

now do you have a gearbox for sale?

if i had one i would give it to you but alas....