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View Full Version : sourcing electric brake hubs - defender pattern



rutmutt
9th December 2013, 01:23 PM
Hi guys,

I went into two local trailer places today to source 10" defender pattern electric brake hubs. I already have 10" backing plates on the trailer and just want to swap from LC to defender pattern. both places wanted $150-160 just for the hub and I of course need 2. This price did not include the electric brake backing plate or new bearings. I would be looking at over $300 at the moment to swap from 6 stud to 5. (or over $600 if i need to change the backing plate as well)

So i was wondering if anyone knows a good place to source from. I am looking for a brick and mortar store or online retailer. Or is this a reasonable price?


thanks.

weeds
9th December 2013, 01:36 PM
for trailer hubs i always search for Redbacks posts........most of his research has been for D2 and D3/4 stuff

he is probably across defender stuff as well.

from memory you should be able to pick up blank hubs and have them drilled to the correct PCD........although faily certain they are off the shelf and if you want matching nuts than you need to press out the existing studs and press in new ones

Lotz-A-Landies
9th December 2013, 01:38 PM
Even though they may be drilled Land Rover PCD, they aren't 16mm studs.

weeds
9th December 2013, 01:41 PM
this thread might be a good start.......

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-campers/128856-changing-trailer-wheels-stud-pattern.html

MR LR
9th December 2013, 01:45 PM
My father has done half a dozen or so camper trailer hub conversions for old customers, most have been D2 and D3 though.

A trailer manufacturer (dad and I both buy that stuff from sales trailers in Mortdale) should be able to order you either blanks or defender drilled hubs from Alko. However most of the time they come with small studs, dad sets them up in the mill and drills them out for the LR studs.

Then as most are alloys he turns a spacer/spigot plate (D2/3/4/RRS wheels don't fit over the bearing) to both space the wheels out and locate them centrally, as on the car, if you are running steelos that is all unnecessary.

Finally, changing wheels is expensive, very expensive, especially for LR patterns, those prices don't seem unrealistic, it cost me about $100 to put D2 hubs on the trailer I built, they are unbraked though, so the money is in hubs and studs, it also has steel wheels on it so there's no spigot.

Cheers
Will

Lotz-A-Landies
9th December 2013, 01:58 PM
My father has done half a dozen or so camper trailer hub conversions for old customers, most have been D2 and D3 though.

A trailer manufacturer (dad and I both buy that stuff from sales trailers in Mortdale) should be able to order you either blanks or defender drilled hubs from Alko. However most of the time they come with small studs, dad sets them up in the mill and drills them out for the LR studs.

Then as most are alloys he turns a spacer/spigot plate (D2/3/4/RRS wheels don't fit over the bearing) to both space the wheels out and locate them centrally, as on the car, if you are running steelos that is all unnecessary.

Finally, changing wheels is expensive, very expensive, especially for LR patterns, those prices don't seem unrealistic, it cost me about $100 to put D2 hubs on the trailer I built, they are unbraked though, so the money is in hubs and studs, it also has steel wheels on it so there's no spigot.

Cheers
WillDon't get caught, spacers are illegal in Australia. You are also changing the offset of the wheels and loading on the bearings.

rijidij
9th December 2013, 07:10 PM
This mob is in Perth, but they have a good online catalogue, there's three Landy pattern hubs on this page Trailer parts (http://trailerparts.net.au/online_shop/category/1099637554/C1) as well as blank hubs etc, with prices.
It looks like the C0120 hub might actually come with the proper 16mm studs for $75.50 each.

Cheers, Murray

DOD DEFENDER
9th December 2013, 10:54 PM
G.day all
When I was working at Sunshine trailers vic i made a camper trailer.
i got alko elec drums with LR defender studs made up at Melbourne Trailers 12 months ago. $140.00 for both drums and jap bearing Trade price.
I am using dexter backing plates,
2006 Defender had a brake controller already fitted when i bought her.

DOD DEFENDER
9th December 2013, 11:51 PM
Sent from my HTC One X using AULRO mobile app

DOD DEFENDER
9th December 2013, 11:55 PM
69829

Sent from my HTC One X using AULRO mobile app

MR LR
10th December 2013, 05:52 AM
Don't get caught, spacers are illegal in Australia. You are also changing the offset of the wheels and loading on the bearings.
Not on trailers AFAIK

Lotz-A-Landies
10th December 2013, 02:09 PM
Not on trailers AFAIKAbsolutely it applies to trailers.

NCOP11 Section LS (VSB 14)
4.2.2 Wheel Attachment
Replacement wheels must be designed for the particular hub/axle and have the same bolt/stud pitch circle diameter and the same centre location method. The wheel nuts or bolts must have the same tapers as the wheel. Wheels with slotted bolt/stud holes must not be used.
Replacement aluminium alloy rims must be located on the hub/axle by the same diameter centre spigot as the original wheel, using suitable adaptor rings where necessary.
Wheel nuts and bolts must have a thread engagement length at least equal to the thread diameter, except where specified otherwise by the vehicle manufacturer.
Wheel spacers (or adaptors for dual wheel conversions) between the wheel mounting face and the road wheel must not be used unless fitted as original equipment by the vehicle manufacturer.
Modifications to disc brake callipers, hubs and suspension and steering components to enable the fitting of replacement wheels must not be undertaken.

Lotz-A-Landies
10th December 2013, 02:13 PM
Sent from my HTC One X using AULRO mobile appQuick call 000 we have a trailer in need of resuscitation!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/69828d1386597047-sourcing-electric-brake-hubs-defender-pattern-1386597067593.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/630.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/630.jpg Oh, that was close!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/69829d1386597155-sourcing-electric-brake-hubs-defender-pattern-1386597175361.jpg

rutmutt
10th December 2013, 05:42 PM
1st up, thanks for the replies guys. I have been in contact with Dave from Melbourne trailers and he'll do 10" electric Brake Hubs with 16mm studs for $127.xx each. Just waiting on a price on freight to see if it's viable.

I could buy local ones at $160 but then i would still have to source new studs and knock the other ones out.

Diana...


.
Replacement aluminium alloy rims must be located on the hub/axle by the same diameter centre spigot as the original wheel, using suitable adaptor rings where necessary.


... would you happen to know what classes as suitable adaptor ring?



This mob is in Perth, but they have a good online catalogue, there's three Landy pattern hubs on this page Trailer parts (http://trailerparts.net.au/online_shop/category/1099637554/C1) as well as blank hubs etc, with prices.
It looks like the C0120 hub might actually come with the proper 16mm studs for $75.50 each.

Cheers, Murray

Thanks for the website, i've contacted them but haven't heard back yet. I believe the ones you were looking at are standard hubs, not electric brakes, but looks like they do those as well.

PhilipA
10th December 2013, 07:01 PM
I could buy local ones at $160 but then i would still have to source new
studs and knock the other ones out

If you are talking 10 inch ALKO drums DO NOT ASSUME that the holes for the splines of the studs are the same size for ALKO studs as Land Rover studs.

The ALKO stud holes are bigger so you have to redrill the hubs/drums in a different place to fit LR 16MM studs.
Ask me how I know.
Regards Philip A
PS that is for the larger 9/16 studs that ALKO supply in 5x6.5ins.

Lotz-A-Landies
10th December 2013, 07:51 PM
Diana...

... would you happen to know what classes as suitable adaptor ring?

My guestimate would be anything that isn't also a spacer.

I have been thinking for some time that someone like AlKo or Wesco-Carter should manufacture electric brake hubs on the Land Cruiser parrallel bearings that are flush to the outside with a screw in spiggot/bearing cap for the RRS/D2/3/4/L322 PCD. They could also fit them with correct LR studs, so we can use LR alloy rims

That way with the positive offset of the latest Land Rover and Range Rover wheels the bearings will be correctly placed and Land Rover owners will be able to have common spares for heavier campers and trailers.

MR LR
10th December 2013, 08:07 PM
Absolutely it applies to trailers.

NCOP11 Section LS (VSB 14)
4.2.2 Wheel Attachment
Replacement wheels must be designed for the particular hub/axle and have the same bolt/stud pitch circle diameter and the same centre location method. The wheel nuts or bolts must have the same tapers as the wheel. Wheels with slotted bolt/stud holes must not be used.
Replacement aluminium alloy rims must be located on the hub/axle by the same diameter centre spigot as the original wheel, using suitable adaptor rings where necessary.
Wheel nuts and bolts must have a thread engagement length at least equal to the thread diameter, except where specified otherwise by the vehicle manufacturer.
Wheel spacers (or adaptors for dual wheel conversions) between the wheel mounting face and the road wheel must not be used unless fitted as original equipment by the vehicle manufacturer.
Modifications to disc brake callipers, hubs and suspension and steering components to enable the fitting of replacement wheels must not be undertaken.
That seems to be talking about cars, not trailers, am I correct?

I wouldn't be surprised if it's illegal, though all he does is use longer studs so the spacer is not taking any load, but I'd like to know for curiosity's sake.

Unfortunately the only way to fit LR alloys (apart from 165 PCD type) is to use a spacer though.

Cheers
Will

rutmutt
12th December 2013, 06:54 AM
heard back from Dave

$167.20 each for 10" electric brake hubs with 16mm studs (not 5/8ths like alko) and about $45 delivery (for two) to maitland NSW.

MR LR
12th December 2013, 01:48 PM
If you are running alloys you should get a centre spigot made up. Someone will tell you it's not necessary, blah blah, but I know of a D2 that had about 4 wheel balances before they worked out the issue was the RRS alloys not locating on the centre spigot, the same issue would be experienced with Deefer alloys. Steel wheels are fine they locate on the studs.

Cheers
Will

rutmutt
12th December 2013, 03:40 PM
thanks MR LR. I will be runnning alloys and I'm pretty sure I've found 2 sources for the centre spigot, I just have to wait until the hubs are here so i can measure the inner & outer diameters that i will need.

you can ebay "hub centric ring" to find the sort of thing i am thinking of. my second option is to have a couple 3D printed. You can do this online if you have a design file and choose the material and finish it gets printed in. so i just have to work out what it should be made of.

MR LR
12th December 2013, 06:23 PM
Dad turns his from bright steel bar, he also has to clean up the casting of the drum so it is parallel and then they get pressed on.

Speedy wheels for example sell nylon ones to fit cars, I think the idea is mainly for when the nuts are done up to locate the wheel properly, as there should be enough friction to prevent any movement once everything is right.

Cheers
Will

slug_burner
12th December 2013, 08:07 PM
A 3D print will be costly unless you have your own printer.

Any engineering shop should be able to knock them up for you. Tyre and wheel shops should also have them.