Drive line free play

[skoller]

How much driveline free play at the wheels would be considered normal. When I had my Puma jacked up the free play was a fair bit. There was a very small amount at the axle splines, a lot more at the diffs, more at the transfer case. All added up it amounts to a lot, or what I consider to be a lot.

[Chops]

I have what I consider a "lot" of free play in my driveline. When I asked about at the dealers, they said this was normal.
Hence I have a rather noisy driveline.
The last time they had the car in for service, it was delivered back to me, which is roughly a 30 odd Klm drive. He said it felt great to him. It left me wondering if my driving styles up the ****, or he just doesn't want to deal with it :(

[n plus one]

I have what I consider a "lot" of free play in my driveline. When I asked about at the dealers, he just doesn't want to deal with it :(

Fixed!

Don't let 'em fob you off - it'll likely be worn rear flanges/halve shafts as a result of them not being oil lubed anymore.

[skoller]

When the vehicle was still in warrenty I mentioned it to the dealers too and they said it needed that much play to allow for the long suspension travel. I believe it to be the usual dealer fob off.
Just on the oil lubed bearings and drive shafts, can the conversion be done by replacing the seals and flanges and not necessarily the drive shafts if they are ok.

[Chops]

Fixed!

Don't let 'em fob you off - it'll likely be worn rear flanges/halve shafts as a result of them not being oil lubed anymore.

:Rolling:
I probably shouldn't laugh really,, :eek:

Mines been like this since new, so I wouldn't think it would have any worn parts effecting it. The rides better now I've changed, or learnt how to drive it smoother. I have a tendency to ride the clutch a bit, due to trying to keep the driveline quiet, which I know will be detrimental to that soon enough I guess.
The other issue I have is what I thought was a bung idler thrust bearing, but a couple of the guys (friends here) explained its actually one of the bearings "in" the gearbox. I have also pointed this out to the dealer at the same time,,,, same result.
The car will go into them again after Xmas, and at that point, I will be forcing the issues I have and see how I go. She's got almost 70k on her now, so I want these issues fixed before warranty runs out.

[n plus one]

:Rolling:
I probably shouldn't laugh really,, :eek:

Mines been like this since new, so I wouldn't think it would have any worn parts effecting it. The rides better now I've changed, or learnt how to drive it smoother. I have a tendency to ride the clutch a bit, due to trying to keep the driveline quiet, which I know will be detrimental to that soon enough I guess.
The other issue I have is what I thought was a bung idler thrust bearing, but a couple of the guys (friends here) explained its actually one of the bearings "in" the gearbox. I have also pointed this out to the dealer at the same time,,,, same result.
The car will go into them again after Xmas, and at that point, I will be forcing the issues I have and see how I go. She's got almost 70k on her now, so I want these issues fixed before warranty runs out.

Yep, they're hopeless - gotta' push 'em to get anything.

Don't be afraid to get a report from an independent specialist if you don't get satisfaction.

[voltron]

In my car and I can't speak for others. Mine get's noisy after a longish drive. Then if I start clutching from third to stop at intersections or corners it is noisy as hell, every time . If I ensure I always change down to second and then ride the clutch to a stop there is no noise at all. So I just don't ride the clutch from 3rd anymore and noisy driveline has disapeared.

[n plus one]

When the vehicle was still in warrenty I mentioned it to the dealers too and they said it needed that much play to allow for the long suspension travel. I believe it to be the usual dealer fob off.
Just on the oil lubed bearings and drive shafts, can the conversion be done by replacing the seals and flanges and not necessarily the drive shafts if they are ok.

1. Yes, that's a fob off.

2. Yes (with a 90% confidence interval).

[newhue]

How much driveline free play at the wheels would be considered normal. When I had my Puma jacked up the free play was a fair bit. There was a very small amount at the axle splines, a lot more at the diffs, more at the transfer case. All added up it amounts to a lot, or what I consider to be a lot.

Mine from memory had about 1/3 of a turn on the rear diff. 1/8 in the front. Not sure of the Trans. I think it's meant to have a bit as there is a lot going on in there. Diffs should not have all that much, and I didn't consider the front a problem.
My driveline had like a three bang jingle to it every gear change. Three compressing the clutch, and three on the way out usually. It was virtually impossible to change without the noise. The dealer put a new gearbox mount in which reduced the level of noise a bit, but didn't change the jingle.
LR repeatedly said it was fine. I replaced the diff on my own accord due to a trip I was doing and hey presto the drive line noise vanished.
Not saying you need a new diff, but try and get LR to reset it. It can be checked for damage whist doing so. In hindsight I believe that's all it is, sloppy set up from where ever they are made before being fitted. Readjust it to less slop, and a quite drive line will most likely appear.

[JDNSW]

Considerable play in the transmission is pretty normal, mostly in the three differentials, but a little bit at every splined joint and set of gears. And it all adds up, especially with the centre diff unlocked.

But normally it has little impact on driving unless the driver is pretty unskilled. However, if it is noticeable, it is usually the result of the handbrake dragging. This can be simply because of poor adjustment, a sticking cable, or more commonly because the rear seal on the transfer case is leaking oil onto the brake. Easy to check, either by jacking up the back (remember to chock the front wheels) and get under and check the prop shaft turns completely freely, or simply go for a drive and then check that the handbrake drum is not hot (careful in case it is!).

John

[Chops]

I wondered about taking mine to a diff guy and having reset it as LR seem to think its fine. If that is what the problem is, then it make me wonder just who's building these things in the first place :eek:

I agree with the fact that there's a bit of noise due to all the gearing, but I've driven other brands, and they have had no where near the noise of mine.

There was definitely no "grab" with my handbrake, I actually just adjusted it last week when I replaced the brakes. It was way loose :angel:, ooh, and hey presto, the little light doesn't flicker any more ;)