Def. TD5 Intermittent/sudden cut out

[hghareeb]

Hi ,,

Before heading to my question I will describe and talk about the symptoms that I have currently with my TD5 2005.

It just cut out suddenly mostly after I drive for several miles ( every 10 miles or so ), rattle and it goes off !! every time it happen I have to switch it off and run it on and it goes back to normal for an other 10 miles or so,, ,,

today I tried to start it as its usually runs fine for the first few miles and decide not to move or drive, I started to inspect every visible wire and loom starting from the ECU to check if any sign of oil there following the loom until I reach some point exactly behind the (rear camshaft oil seal) the engine start to rattle and went off !! I start the engine again and move the 2 thick conduit loom by my hand again it went off ,, so i tried my best to trace these 2 conduit loom hopping to fin any scratch or even twisted wires but couldn't find any visible damage,,
so what could be the most frequent damage there ? what is the way to permanently fix this damage ? is there a replacement loom so I can change the 2 harness that runs behind the camshaft oil seal ?

Thank you for reading and excuse my weak english ..

[hghareeb]

I'm not sure if any one interested to hear the update of the above but it COULD be usefull to others .

Yesterday I put my hands and tried to trace each loom starting from the ECU, I removed the air filter box including the MAF and air duct so I can see and trace the looms, I changed some greasy and dirty conduits (it wasn't damaged), I also cleaned the air filter I tried to start the car and keep moving the harness looms as I did before expecting it to cut off but it didn't ! I kept moving it several time it didn't cut off at all ,, It seems the problem either it solved itself or it might get back again when it gets hot, after that I driven it for about 20 kilo without any problem ..

I will keep using it these days and will get back with the update if any interest for that .

thank you for reading ,,

[goingbush]

The most likely cause in that area would be the wiring to the crank sensor , this goes into the top of the bellhousing over the flywheel, behind the inlet manifold, you should be able to see that wiring with air box removed,

The car will have the same symptoms, or not run at all if this lead ot the connector is faulty,

Its common fault caused by people forgetting (or not knowing) to unplug the cable when removing the gearbox or to replace clutch, the cable gets stretched and eventually fails.

You should find this lead and jiggle it to confirm or eliminate it as a cause of your fault.

[hghareeb]

This is exactly what happend earlier, the 2 wires to the crank sensor was splitted due to the mentioned reasons However I joint it back but not 100%sure if its as it was.

Where and how to get a new CPK and the plug ?

[nedflanders]

If you get a non start situation again and have access to a nanocom or similar scan tool check for RPM,this will tell you if you've got a crank sensor on the way out. A crank sensor usually goes when the vehicle is hot, then will restart 10 minutes later, your lucky if you get this happen 2/3 times as a warning before the crank sensor is totally buggered. Sometimes on the Ford transit (the engine used in the PUMA) the dual mass flywheel starts breaking up and gives the same symtoms as it puts lots of dust on the sensor and also into the starter motor.

[hghareeb]

Umm. thank you,, M going to order the sensor but any idea if I can get the (Female) plug to replace the splitted wires that was spiltted exactly at the end ( just before it goes in the plastic) ?