Perentie gearbox issues

[RC110]

Hi everyone, so after finally getting rego on the soft-top got to take it for a decent drive and ran into some problems with the gearbox. I cant downshift at all and gearbox is very sticky at first i thought the stickiness was just because it was a bit rough and didn't really worry me but not being able to downshift does i would assume from the feel its probably the synchro's, i was going to investigate oil but would assume the army would be using correct oil. Ive looked around and realised how hard it is to find a LT95, so i rang a few places to get some prices of rebuild, most are giving me a call back but British4x4 at windsor gardens threw a $6000-7000 at me just to rebuild the box :o considering that's more than i payed for the vehicle i found it a little silly especially when he didn't even ask what kind of vehicle or any details at all is this just because he didn't wont to do it or ? What would be your guys estimate on a price to have rebuild done? Next is it going to be cheaper and easier to do a conversion, if so what would be recommended and details, cost ect... Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance :)

[weeds]

change the oil first.....pretty sure the ARMY still use engine oil in the gearbox

just remeber you gearbox is taper roller bearing so a bit different to the civvy version

my five speed out of a 300tdi was $2500 exchange

[RC110]

Thanks yeah I'm going to go throw some 20w50 in it on Wednesday just to be sure can anyone recommend a brand it likes?, also if i can i would like to keep the LT95 as from what Ive read its quite a nice strong box,but if i have to go down conversion route so be it...

[Blknight.aus]

it likes 15/40wt

Rx super.

Make sure the clutch isnt dragging first.

[85 county]

Lighter than that even,

so this changing down, yoiu cant becouse the stick will not move or it curunches gears when you do.

dubbling the cluch makes a difrence or not??

taper roller ( army style) it may or may not be, but is beside the point becouse it would have no efect.

or have you just never driven a 50 year old desined GBox.

there is a place in sydney that will rebuld a 95 for 900 buck but you need to get it there.

[RC110]

hmm ok i seem to be finding a lot of conflicting info on oil can someone just clarify for me...

cant downshift at all even with double clutching and it will come out of gear but wont go into lower gear but no crunching and i don't think its just me because the hardtop seems to be fine, I mean i can manage my 1951 dodge truck so i think id be able to handle a land rover... I hope anyway

wow 900 sounds a lot more appealing im assuming about $500 for freight which is still a lot better than $6000-7000

[Blknight.aus]

sounds like clutch drag to me.

if your double declutching correctly it should go into gear regardless of how good or bad the syncros are. (or if the clutch is dragging)

if it goes up the gears ok then its not the syncros and its not the bearings, most likely its going to be clutch drag thats keeping the shafts turning at the wrong speeds and usually it will always be because the input side is always turning too slowly for the road speed for the gear you're trying to pick.

try this.

slow down an ass load more before you try to down shift... Im talking about 35kph to come out of 4th about 15kph to come out of 3rd and about 5 to come out of second.

give it a little blip (you want to hit about 1500rpm) and then complete the gear change. If that makes it any better then its the clutch dragging.

you might find someone has put the heavy duty clutch plate in behind the light duty pressure plate.

Id also suggest checking the clutch free play and pedal height settings.

[steveG]

$900 sounds too cheap to me. You'd be lucky buy decent bearings synchros and gaskets etc for that let alone any labour cost.

Steve

[jackafrica]

$900 sounds too cheap to me. You'd be lucky buy decent bearings synchros and gaskets etc for that let alone any labour cost.

Steve

+1 on that!

$900 buys an aftermarket rebuild kit. That's non Timken bearings, aftermarket gasket kit with gaskets that are too thick and synchros which are definitely non-genuine.

Others here on this forum rebuild the LT95 to a high standard, though for considerably more.
Perhaps (with all due respect) you get what you pay for in this instance?
Cheers,
Richard

[Bigbjorn]

Castrol Syntrans makes a world of difference. Usually got to be ordered in.

[RC110]

update decided it couldn't wait and was stressing me out so changed the oil to the syntrax (not cheap stuff especially when they only had it in the 1L) adjusted clutch just a little and bingo nice downshifts, still a little sticky but assume this is just how box is... Biggest relief knowing i'm not looking at a new box. Thank you everyone for the help really do appreciate it!!

[JDNSW]

My experience is the LT95 tends to be sticky coming out of gear, but only when cold - which it hardly is at present in Adelaide. And this symptom disappears with Syntrans.

I would be looking more carefully at whether the clutch is still dragging - check the pedal free play, but also check that there is not oil leaking onto the clutch (probably from the pump on the front of the gearbox, from the rear main seal, or both) by removing the wading plug on the clutch housing. While a lot of oil will make it slip, a little may cause it to drag. (Not an expensive repair - except that it involves removing either the box or the engine!)

John

[RC110]

Ok ill have a more thorough look at it tomorrow the only thing is the hard top feels almost the same now with regards to being a bit sticky but i haven't put the syntrax in hardtop yet but would normally find it strange that two trucks would have the same problem with same symptoms at the same time that's why i put it down to the box just being a bit sticky but im probably completely wrong hmm ?? the 6x6 though is absolutely beautiful and much nicer to drive than the 4x4's but i put this down to it being a 1997 and not an 89

[Bush65]

Isuzu upgraded the 4BD1 and 4BD1T late in 88, but AFAIK the NA engine used in the 4x4 was the same earlier engine after 88, but the 6x6 used the update engine.

[85 county]

+1 on that!

$900 buys an aftermarket rebuild kit. That's non Timken bearings, aftermarket gasket kit with gaskets that are too thick and synchros which are definitely non-genuine.

Others here on this forum rebuild the LT95 to a high standard, though for considerably more.
Perhaps (with all due respect) you get what you pay for in this instance?
Cheers,
Richard

full marks for looking after your mates, but an LT95 is a simple box.
of the 5 LT95 boxs in SA as well as 2 LT85s all sitting behind turbos, one with now 180k on it none have had any problems, and yes thay use Timkem bearings. how you can justfy 4K for a rebuld is a joke

[RC110]

Alright turns out my old man knows an ex mechanic from the adf (his company does a lot of contract work for the adf) so he's going to come up and have a look at the trucks on the weekend, check it all out and get it all sorted for me so been pretty lucky there.

I agree with getting what you pay for and i think it applies for most things in life but there is a difference between that and getting taken for a ride. I've been ringing around Australia over the last few weeks, getting various prices on various things and have came to the conclusion that due to there being a limited number of workshops familiar and willing to work on these trucks, they are going to rape you for every last dollar they can IMO and same goes for parts until the spares come up or auction at least. A guy ebay wants $300 for a mirror arm hahaha A MIRROR ARM.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Well if it is the 6x6 mirror arm you are after, the long arms are also made by Britpart, plenty of Aussie stockists of that brand around...

My first gearbox rebuild cost $4500, though I was younger and slightly dumber back then, just had some more work done on the transfer by a better source, and it wasn't cheap either. Having read the receipts for the first rebuild, I can see why there is easily over a grand in parts alone. Priced a main shaft or gear cluster lately? How about the taper roller bearings? All depends what wears...

I'm looking forward to picking up a few Perenties on ebay or gumtree after the owner gets the bill shock from fixing something they didn't research before purchasing...

[RC110]

I have no doubt parts are expensive for an old obsolete box but that doesn't justify the the cost of labour going up by so much I mean its just a normal gearbox, its not some space age CVT box that no one knows how to work on and when you can buy a low km puma engine, transmission and transfer case with everything on it for around $5000 out of the uk it seems a bit silly to me unless I'm missing something. Before i bought it i did research into replacement engines, parts most things i thought i'd need and as my business regularly bring half full containers in from the uk i thought if i need anything i will just update the perentie with new gear. But then hoped on here and everyone raves about the 4bd1 and LT95 combo and i did a 180 and thought nah ill keep it the way it is, also fell in love with the noise and rattle and the look on peoples faces when they come for a drive haha.

Also if anyone needs anything from the UK yell out and i will see if i can help out with shipping.

[tinnuts]

since buying my perentie in August- the gear stick broke right at the ball, clutch master cylinder leaked badly, and the oil had water in it. A bit dodgy for a vehicle sold with a blue slip. Changed oil with engine oil, replaced clutch mc and replaced gearstick, fantastic vehicle, I have already travelled over 10 000 k's.

[isuzurover]

...A bit dodgy for a vehicle sold with a blue slip. ....

Many people seem to be under misapprehensions about RWC checks, which is why QLD renamed them a "safety Certificate".

It is just a basic check that the brakes and steering function correctly (at the time tested), there are no major oil leaks, and tyres and seat belts conform to minimum standards...

The oil would not be checked, nor would the integrity of the gear lever, and a leaky clutch MC may even pass if it did not drip on the ground during inspection.

[rocksteadi]

Hi All

I have an 88 110 personel carrier MC2 and love it, but I have a question for my more learned land rover owners, The other day, after a nearly 200km round trip, just around the corner from my house, when i would accelerate the engine would rev but not much else would happen,and then it would slowly take up the acceleration,no matter what gear I was in, and then at the very slight hill in my street, the engine revs would go to the max and the rig would barely move. So i parked it and then towed it back to my drive way.( under the cover of darkness )
So my question to you all, before I have to give my mechanic lots of money, is has this happened to any of you or anyone you know, and is it that maybe the gearbox is out of oil/ fluid ????

look forward to hearing your thoughts..

thanks... Toby

[Bearman]

Sounds like you might need a new clutch Toby. What you have described is the symptoms of a slipping clutch. As it is hydraulic there is no adjustment on the pushrod but check the pedal and master cylinder to make sure it is not sticking in the half disengaged position. If all is ok there then it is a gearbox out job to fit a new clutch. Not a nice thing to happen for Christmas :(

[Bearman]

Here's a part number for a HD clutch assembly for the Isuzu (Exedy KLR28003-1AX). This is one that will handle a turbo if you decide to fit one later down the track.

[rocksteadi]

Thanks Brian

I did think it might be clutch, but there was no smell at all, so I kind of dismissed the idea, I have had a new master cylinder put in only a few months ago.......so will check all of that out otherwise looks like I will be buying myself a nice new clutch christmas present...
Thanks again Brian, happy new year to you

[Bearman]

Thanks Brian

I did think it might be clutch, but there was no smell at all, so I kind of dismissed the idea, I have had a new master cylinder put in only a few months ago.......so will check all of that out otherwise looks like I will be buying myself a nice new clutch christmas present...
Thanks again Brian, happy new year to you

There is a possibility the master cylinder might be the problem. It has an adjustment on the pushrod that goes into it. Has the pedal operation been any different after you had it fitted. The pedal would feel different to normal if it is sticking.

[steveG]

Just to add to what Brian has said, if the clutch feels firm right from the top of the pedal stroke then its not right.
There needs to be some free play at the top of the pedal travel or the clutch won't release properly, and eventually will start slipping.

Steve

[JDNSW]

Check for oil on the clutch. Remove the wading plug on the bottom of the flywheel housing and see if there is any oil comes out. If there is significant amount of oil comes out, this will be your problem, and you will need to identify where the oil is ccccoming from - most likely the oil pump on the front of the gearbox or the crankshaft back seal (or both). You will need to fix this while the box is out to replace the clutch.

John

[87County]

Just to add to what Brian has said, if the clutch feels firm right from the top of the pedal stroke then its not right.
There needs to be some free play at the top of the pedal travel or the clutch won't release properly, and eventually will start slipping.

Steve

If this is the case, it wouldn't be the first 110 of those recently sold with incorrectly adjusted freeplay.

If insufficient freeplay is the problem, adjustment to the manual specs is straighforward, IME making it a two person job (one on the pedal,one with the spanners) simplifies it further.

[fcnutter]

Who's the guy that rebuilds the box for $900

[Blknight.aus]

there is a rod adjustment for the free play.

about 2/3 of the landies I fixed "clutch slips, replace" work orders on took 15 minutes with 2 special spanners and flathead screwdriver to fix.