D1 96 300TDi Auto - Not Starting (intermittently)

[mcgibb]

Hi All,

I'm from Wellington Point in Brisbane. I've had my Disco for about 6 months now. Once every few weeks it wouldn't start. When you turn the key, ALL lights on dashboard go out, only noise I hear is a small tick (which maybe SM solenoid or maybe not).
Starting getting more frequent, weekly, then two or three times in a couple of days then weekly. Erratic!!. Frustrating!!! So got a 2nd hand starter motor but before I could install the flexplate died/broke and was replaced by auto trans guys.
Local Disco mechanic thought the flexplate would be causing all the issues. But not starting again after FP change. And if anything was more often. To start anytime now have put into drive back to park, once or twice, then starts ok. Trick from Brother-in-law. Then replaced the SM myself. So thought all good. But no.

Now to start it, sometimes first time no "fiddling", other times, drive/park thing done a few times and starts. Seems to work better when cold.
If I drive, only a few Kms, stop and start, starts ok. Maybe have to do drive/park thing again once or twice, but starts.

If I drive for say 15 or 20mins. Will not start. Come back an hour later and she's fine. So started thinking it was somehow heat related. Maybe when it got hot, teeth on SM (or something else) expanded every so slightly and got stuck somewhere.

Last night (coolish night in Brissie) picked daughter up from the airport. 25 minute drive, on motorway mostly.
Thought if it is heat related, waiting at arrivals would be enough time. NO!!!
Took 90 minutes of constant trying to start, try a few times and then "calmly" for a few minutes, then try again, in and out of car lock/unlock, before it actually started. Wonder also if it something to do with immobiliser.????
The last thing I tried before it started was to put in park, take hand brake off and give the bullbar a hefty shove 2 or 3 times. So the truck rocked backwards a forwards bit. Got back in the car and started clean as a whistle.

So now I'm completely confused.

I think for me the most frustrating thing is when it starts it kicks over beautifully. As good as any car I've ever had. No coughing, wheezing or spluttering. It just goes.

Have spent a couple of grand on this since buying it and wife, is at the point of selling it and doesn't want to spend any money on it. Catch22.

Anyone out there got any thoughts? At the end of my tether.

[Petetheprinta]

Had the same problem intermittent start no rhyme or reason. Check the solenoid stop valve in injector, probably need to clean male terminal and squeeze female together slightly to make better connection. That fixed my problem. May seem obvious but make sure correctly in park.

[bee utey]

If all the dash lights go out, then I'd suspect a dodgy connection between the battery and the ignition switch, maybe even the switch itself.

Now as you only need two wires to get it running, get yourself a toggle switch and a push button switch. Run a wire (with a 30A line fuse) from the battery to the two switches. The toggle switch then is wired to the fuel stop solenoid on the injection pump and the push button is wired to the starter solenoid. Turn your ignition key on normally, and press the button. If the starter whirrs but it doesn't start then flick on the toggle switch too. Providing your remaining electrics work (lights, charging, instruments, indicators etc) it should drive off merrily. Use this system to get you around until you suss out the problem.

[mcgibb]

Had the same problem intermittent start no rhyme or reason. Check the solenoid stop valve in injector, probably need to clean male terminal and squeeze female together slightly to make better connection. That fixed my problem. May seem obvious but make sure correctly in park.
Hi Petetheprinta,
Thanks for the reply?
If it was the "solenoid stop valve in injector", ie no fuel getting thru, wouldn't the car try to turn over but never get there? Rather than the dead silence I experience??

[Petetheprinta]

Hi Petetheprinta,
Thanks for the reply?
If it was the "solenoid stop valve in injector", ie no fuel getting thru, wouldn't the car try to turn over but never get there? Rather than the dead silence I experience??

:oops2:You are absolutely correct, my apologies, I misread the post and assumed it was cranking but not starting. Forget the solenoid bit.

[mcgibb]

Thanks though, I really appreciate you taking the time to post.

[Spel1]

This may point to a poor earth to the starter. While the earth strap can look ok, if its original it probably isn't. First change the earth lead, a nice new one should cost around $20 and a worthy job. If it still persists check and clean the connections on the solenoid (do this anyway). As a test, get a jumper lead, connect to the neg on the battery and the side of the starter, see if it makes a difference. If you still have starting issues from the key, maybe try turning the starter directly from a direct connection from the battery rather than through the ignition key. Process of elimination.

[ROAMER_AUS]

If you have to put it in drive and back in park could it be the bit that doesn't allow you to start it in drve or reverse? Try staring it in neutral ans see what happens. I had this problem once. Completely different car tough.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[wozzlegummich]

Hi All,

I'm from Wellington Point in Brisbane. I've had my Disco for about 6 months now. Once every few weeks it wouldn't start. When you turn the key, ALL lights on dashboard go out, only noise I hear is a small tick (which maybe SM solenoid or maybe not).
Starting getting more frequent, weekly, then two or three times in a couple of days then weekly. Erratic!!. Frustrating!!! So got a 2nd hand starter motor but before I could install the flexplate died/broke and was replaced by auto trans guys.
Local Disco mechanic thought the flexplate would be causing all the issues. But not starting again after FP change. And if anything was more often. To start anytime now have put into drive back to park, once or twice, then starts ok. Trick from Brother-in-law. Then replaced the SM myself. So thought all good. But no.

Now to start it, sometimes first time no "fiddling", other times, drive/park thing done a few times and starts. Seems to work better when cold.
If I drive, only a few Kms, stop and start, starts ok. Maybe have to do drive/park thing again once or twice, but starts.

If I drive for say 15 or 20mins. Will not start. Come back an hour later and she's fine. So started thinking it was somehow heat related. Maybe when it got hot, teeth on SM (or something else) expanded every so slightly and got stuck somewhere.

Last night (coolish night in Brissie) picked daughter up from the airport. 25 minute drive, on motorway mostly.
Thought if it is heat related, waiting at arrivals would be enough time. NO!!!
Took 90 minutes of constant trying to start, try a few times and then "calmly" for a few minutes, then try again, in and out of car lock/unlock, before it actually started. Wonder also if it something to do with immobiliser.????
The last thing I tried before it started was to put in park, take hand brake off and give the bullbar a hefty shove 2 or 3 times. So the truck rocked backwards a forwards bit. Got back in the car and started clean as a whistle.

So now I'm completely confused.

I think for me the most frustrating thing is when it starts it kicks over beautifully. As good as any car I've ever had. No coughing, wheezing or spluttering. It just goes.

Have spent a couple of grand on this since buying it and wife, is at the point of selling it and doesn't want to spend any money on it. Catch22.

Anyone out there got any thoughts? At the end of my tether.

See my experience - definately had heat related starter issues here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/188199-tdi-slow-fire.html). http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/188199-tdi-slow-fire.html

[gazby]

Hi mcgibb, we have owned two 300Tdi's over the past 5 years and have had the same problem with both at some time throughout the ownerships.
In both our cases the problem was nothing more than a crook spade connection on the starter solenoid, it must be the wire from start position on the ign switch to the starter solenoid. Although it is in a bad spot to get at, under a hot exhaust manifold, (possibly a contributing factor to the problem), once you can tighten or replace that spade connector on the wire and fit it back onto the solenoid you may no longer have a problem with starting.
Just a thought but as I said it is a relatively simple fix for a problem that can really do your head in when it holds you up.
Happy Christmas, whatever you do do not let the wife convince you to give up on the Disco.
Gaz.

[mattg]

We got it all fixed with a relay on the switch wire.

Seems to have a challenge on the park sensor now with it needing to be taken out of park and back in again before it will start. Any tips on fixing this?

Matt
Enjoying Christmas with McGibb

[wrinklearthur]

We got it all fixed with a relay on the switch wire.

Seems to have a challenge on the park sensor now with it needing to be taken out of park and back in again before it will start. Any tips on fixing this?

Your starting problem sound like a couple of intermittent faults occurring together or singularly.

The lights disappearing while using the ignition switch, - dodgy ignition switch contacts, replacing ignition switch is the only real cure here.

Getting out of the car and back in again, or moving auto selector then car starts - check switch on auto selector but first check the connections are tight and the connectors that go onto that switch are crimped tight onto their wires as well, ( a bit of bother getting to the switch under all the trim ).
No power at all intermittently, a loose joint some where in the current path from and to the starter motor, - check for a faulty earth path by turning head lights on while turning engine over if no noise and the headlights disappear completely, look for a faulty joint in that earth path;

For the earthing, start at the earth cable clamp on the battery, check clamp for any corrosion, good solid cable crimp, clean and tighten onto post.
Follow earth cable down behind battery to the first earth to body lug should be soldered on solid look for any cracks in the solder, and the lug to the body should be bright metal.
Again follow the cable from the body lug to the end of that cable where it meets the chassis, look at the end lug for a tight crimp end and solder if necessary, the lug should have a clean metal to metal contact where it is bolted to the chassis.

Go to the other side of the engine bay and look behind the starter motor for the earth strap that goes between the bell housing and the chassis. Check both ends for clean bright metal to metal contact, I have found lots of these joints only relying on the bolt for electrical contact as the chassis was still painted, clean the paint and any corrosion away then smear a bit of grease or Vaseline around and over the tightened joint to stop moisture wicking it's way under the joint.

To do all that work should take just under a hour, I will be interested to know what you find after you finish the cleaning all of those earth path joints.
.