110 Puma Wagon Sound Control (new 2.2l 600 km on clock).

[MonsterMan]

An interesting journey.

After hours of searching and reading here, I decided to purchase three bulk packs of Dynamat and install in stages.

Stage 1 Floor and sides up to glass from rear door to back seats

To my ear sound from the driver's position, noticeable sounds from the rear were gone. (ie sounds from further forward more dominant).

Stage 2 Remainder of floor up to fire wall.

So much improved body noise at all speeds that the engine sounds became dominant and head ache causing. Actually worse than with no treatment. High mid frequency "tappety" type clicking under load and dominant high pitched turbo whistle.

Stage 3 Bonnet Underside with Dynamat extreme only, (Hoodliner on order to Cover these sheets)

Engine noise much more bearable, and not dominant. Same sounds but less pressure.

And you guessed it, now the tyre noise is dominant.

Advice Please for Next Stage

I have one bulk pack remaining. Further treatment will involve removing trim on my new vehicle, so I want to do what will work best.

Should I

a) apply to underside of roof
b) apply to front passenger doors
c) apply to rear passenger doors
d) apply to rear door
e) I was also planning to add a further layer of Closed Cell Rubber to the back floor with marine carpet over before building my shelves.

If you have been down this path, please advise on what I should prioritise next.

Thanks

Geoff

[cooperrat]

Before you do too much in the back I would check the bulkhead seam behind the seats I could see daylight through both passenger and drivers side the foam rubber tape that should seal the space the two metal pieces should close when bolted together, had dropped out in the build I assume . Filled mine with body sealant , no wonder there was a bit of moisture under the rear deck rubber when I took it out to clean out dust !!!!!

[Rickoz]

An interesting journey.
After hours of searching and reading here, I decided to purchase three bulk packs of Dynamat and install in stages.
Stage 1 Floor and sides up to glass from rear door to back seats
To my ear sound from the driver's position, noticeable sounds from the rear were gone. (ie sounds from further forward more dominant).
Stage 2 Remainder of floor up to fire wall.
So much improved body noise at all speeds that the engine sounds became dominant and head ache causing. Actually worse than with no treatment. High mid frequency "tappety" type clicking under load and dominant high pitched turbo whistle.
Stage 3 Bonnet Underside with Dynamat extreme only, (Hoodliner on order to Cover these sheets)
Engine noise much more bearable, and not dominant. Same sounds but less pressure.
And you guessed it, now the tyre noise is dominant.
Advice Please for Next Stage
I have one bulk pack remaining. Further treatment will involve removing trim on my new vehicle, so I want to do what will work best.
Should I
a) apply to underside of roof
b) apply to front passenger doors
c) apply to rear passenger doors
d) apply to rear door
e) I was also planning to add a further layer of Closed Cell Rubber to the back floor with marine carpet over before building my shelves.
If you have been down this path, please advise on what I should prioritise next.
Thanks Geoff
What is the weight of all this?
What is the cost of all this?

[Bush65]

Firewall.

[uninformed]

I can certainly understand why you would want to sound proof a Defender, but after seeing how and where the Bulkheads rust, I would not be sticking or covering it with anything.

[MonsterMan]

thanks all for the interesting comments and questions, but is there anyone on the forum who has followed this path and could find the time to advise on my initial questions? ie

Please note that I've already done up the firewall as far as I can reach without removing the dash and there doesn't seem to be daylight showing behind the seats "seam".

Should I

a) apply to underside of roof
b) apply to front passenger doors
c) apply to rear passenger doors
d) apply to rear door
e) I was also planning to add a further layer of Closed Cell Rubber to the back floor with marine carpet over before building my shelves.

I drove on the concrete motorway yesterday and am very happy with the results so far, but am interested to know what effect doing the roof or doors might have.

Thanks

[Bush65]

There are many threads here about soundproofing, it gets Ho Hum after the first few.

You should read post 17 by Offender90 in this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/45996-sound-proofing.html).

Edit: and post 8 in this thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/61799-nvh-solutions.html).

[MonsterMan]

One last try.

Anyone?

specifically door or roof treatment effects?

As I mentioned, I've read all of the extensive earlier threads that I could find including the recommendation to buy a discovery, but I already have have of those.

[Babs]

Has anyone ever thought of a Rhino Lining or similar spray on or roll on polyurethane lining. It would serve two or more purposes, it would dust seal all joints gaps etc. and it would sound proof, also protect all panels.

I'm thinking of doing all the interior flooring throughout.

Any thoughts, has anyone done something similar?

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[Dorian]

MM
I have put Dynamat Extreme in my MY12-110, I know I am soft but as it's my daily drive and I do a lot of long hiway drives I need to be able to hear just a bit when I get there.
I did stage 1 and 2 of your set up, but not 3. I didn't get the effect with the engine noise after stage 2(This was done as 2a-2z), and the cabin noise was reduced by stage 2 about 1/2 as much as stage 1. However I did put the dynamat up the firewall as far as possible without taking the dash out., this involves removing the existing floor matting (have fun with that), you will find that it doesn't go back in quite as well as it was. If you do this you will get over the transom tunnel as well. I also did the boxes under both seats, which get more of the transom tunnel, this gave quite a noticeable difference. Just a note I have a Mulgo Ebox (which is also Dynamatted inside)

Interestingly enough (and as an aside) I put a piece of 25mm perspex on the passanger seat footwell firewall as my wench is just a bit short and her feet couldn't touch the floor without having her nose pressed against the wind screen, You could tell the difference in noise with the perspex installed so I think the fire wall ( or at least the footwell part of it) is important.

If you read some other threads then you will see that you don't have to cover completely with the stuff to get 95% of the noise reduction, think a spoonful of honey in the middle of a drum skin. I completely covered the floor of the load area as I didn't want bumps in the carpet that would catch as I slid stuff in, the rest I stayed away from the panel joins. Although I ended up sealing up a lot of holes and cracks with a body sealant (Sika).

If you do the doors let me know, I got the door cards off and there is a 2mm layer of neoprene type foamed rubber glued to the frame of the door. Just looked too hard to get it off so I left it.

Before I did the Dynamat, I put in Marine carpet. Did this cause all my kit kept sliding around on the rubber. Just the carpet helps and my advice is to do the carpet before you put any more sound proofing in the back. Again there are a couple of threads and in one a chap goes to detail about the decoupling of the frequencies etc by using some Dynamat and some foam rubber. I recon the carpet does 80% of the job of the foam rubber and yes I have had a piece of foamed rubber in there.

I have had a quick ride in a 90 that had Dynamat put on the inside of the rear wheel arches and then sprayed with Rhino mat stuff over that. Although I wouldn't do it because of the corrosion issues ( I do the beach mostly when I can) I recon that the sound reduction is miles better than what I acheived with Dynamat inside and carpet.

My main noise now is wind noise coming from the snorkel/ roof racks area. Eventually I will do the roof with a bit of dynamat (say 40% coverage) and then 3mm neoprene and then Marine carpet the ceiling (dark grey). I do a lot of night driving and I hate the white headliner as it reflects the instrument panel and makes thing just a bit harder.


So I'd do the firewall as far as you can, ensure you've got the transom tunnel covered, do under the seats if you haven't already.
I would also check that all of the door seals actually seal, and fill all the little gaps and holes, there are quite a few.

Hope this helps, I am off for a few days but PM me if you want some more details though I might be a bit slow to respond.

Cheers Glen

[Bush65]

Has anyone ever thought of a Rhino Lining or similar spray on or roll on polyurethane lining. It would serve two or more purposes, it would dust seal all joints gaps etc. and it would sound proof, also protect all panels.

I'm thinking of doing all the interior flooring throughout.

Any thoughts, has anyone done something similar?

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
It is useful for other reasons, but the sound proofing results may not be as good as you would hope.

Sound has no respect for good intentions. I posted some links that have contributions by Offender90, and there are other threads on the subject where he has posted. Edit there was a thread not to many months ago with a good post, but I didn't find it in my quick search (end edit)

Offender90 is an expert in the field of acoustics, just about everyone else here, myself included, are mugs when it comes to acoustics, and his posts are well worth reading for good information on the subject.

[voltron]

This video helped me understand sound deadening a little better. You should be able to make good decisions if the forum hasn't enlightened you any more.

The Truth About Sound Deadening - YouTube