eas compressor temp switch failures

[PeterAllen]

Hi all and welcome to 2014.
I have been having issues with my air system for some time and the issue relates to the thermal switch on my compressor. First compressor would run fine when controlled through the unlock software but would not run when system was running normally. I believe the unlock software overrides the thermal signal from the compressor or so it seems. Then swapped out for a new compressor that ran fine for about 20 min then hit the same issue. I have just rebuilt another compressor with a known good thermal switch and that now operates as it should however I have only done short drives of 5 or so minutes and as this compressor is a bit noisier noticed it was running a lot even though the system had reached normal ride height. I am thinking that something is causing the compressor to run on and is probably the cause of the other failures. There are no leaks on the bags as system will stay up when relay is pulled and disabled. Could this be a leak from the valve block. Or storage tank. Any suggestions would be helpful before I blow another thermal switch.

[superquag]

Even 10 minutes running is way tooo much. Look for leaks, or, more expen$ively, the pressure-switch on the valve block.

Pump should run when system pressure is between 7.2 to 8 bar and cut off when it reaches 9.5 to 10.5 bar.
10 bar is around 150 psi

Try the hose and connections to the air-tank, and the valve block.
Also, the air intake filter, which on the Classic is located in a brilliant position.:angel:

From memory, it should'nt take more than 5 to 7 minutes to pump up from low/empty and lift the car up to standard height.

My Classic sometimes will hunt around, intermittantly running the compressor for a minute or three.. for up to 10/15 minutes. Talking nicely to the car seems to work better than threatening it with 'Coil Springs'..... :p

IMHO, the compressor is fine if everything else is perfect.... leaks will make it work much harder/longer. The longer it runs, the hotter it gets, the less effective it is, the more wear & tear which means it needs to run longer, so it wears more and gets hotter... You see the circle ? :o

[PeterAllen]

Thanks . I am using a new filter in compressor and there are no leaks on lines at valve block externally anyway. I will check the connections at the storage tank and have tested continuity on pressure switch that indicates its OK. Would love to get to the source of this. Doesn't the temp switch reset? Or is once activated it needs to be renewed? Like a fuse?

[PeterAllen]

Further to your suggestions I always speak nicely when within earshot of her. Even took her camping and playing on the beach last week.Gave her a new battery as well so she should be happy.

[superquag]

Continuity in the pressure-switchy is good. - But even better is when it operates within the correct specifications. ie, not trying to run the system at tooo high a pressure, which will see (and hear) the compressor running for a Very Long Time...

Pressure-gauge, T-piece and a few bits of hose... insert in line to the tank and read pressure. :)

Have you got a RAVE manual/disk ? - Can be had here from the shop.

[TheTree]

HI

I seem to remember that up to 20 mins from fully empty is acceptable but a healthy system should do it in under 10 mins

Steve

[PeterAllen]

Hi All,
So far so good. Have done a couple of 40-50 minute runs and car has not had a problem. Reaches standard height in less than two minutes so things are ok currently.