series 2 a gears/transfer box

[bentleighboy]

Ok chaps time for what might be a dumb question.

Over the holidays I have been driving my "new" 64 series 2a a bit, on gravel roads and generally getting to know her. Top of the list has been achieving proficiency changing between LR, HR and 2wd/ 4wd

I think what is happening is that I cannot get her into 2wd high

Heres what happens, to check my understanding:

Move red knob back into LR- yellow knob pops up. When selecting LR it should automatically go into 4wd, right? However, does yellow knob up not mean 2wd? In LR , I now cannot push the yellow knob in. It stays up.

Selecting HR- main gear in N: Moving red knob forwards. I am unable to get any drive when doing this. However, if I now depress yellow knob and try again, the red knob seems to feel 'different' (like it is engaging gears correctly) and now I have drive.

The manual and other online sources suggest that if having trouble selecting HR then re select any gear in main box, then back into N, and try again. This doesn't seem to help.

So am i correct in thinking that I cannot get HR 2wd?

And with LR selected is she indeed in 4wd with the yellow knob up?

I should add that I have just changed the gear box and TF box fluids with the appropriate Castrol modern product and she seems to be shifting pretty sweetly otherwise.

Thanks in anticipation and happy new year to all.

[Landy Smurf]

I am myself confused how I drive a series.
In 2WD in HR - main gear in N or in gear with clutch - Red knob into N or LR - push yellow knob down - If red knob is in N select LR- if it wont select LR let out the clutch in a gear and try selecting LR again. * This will be 4WD LR
Getting back into 2WD, move red knob forward and yellow knob should pop up.
I am not a 100% on that though as I have not done it for a while or often

[JDNSW]

Look at it like this.

The red knob has three positions - High, Neutral, Low.

The engagement dog clutch for the front prop shaft is engaged and disengaged via two springs. When the red lever is moved back into Low, front wheel drive is engaged via the spring (taking care of the situation where the teeth are lined up and would otherwise cause problems engaging Low). At the same time a selector shaft is moved, compressing a third spring and allowing the pin controlled by the yellow knob to engage in a hole.

When the red lever is moved forward to high, front wheel drive is disengaged (via a spring, so if there is windup it will not immediately disengage). If the yellow knob is now depressed, the third spring referred to above engages front wheel drive.

The symptom you report, not being able to engage high without pressing the yellow knob, suggests one of the selector shafts is not moving freely. There are three of these, all protruding from the front of the transfer case extension, covered by a pressed metal dust cover which has the low range selector shaft coming though and connected to the red lever. Most likely the dust cover is missing or filled with muck and/or the protruding part of the shafts are rusty and sticking where they go through the housing. Usually just need cleaning up to free them. A workshop manual makes this clearer, but the mechanism is difficult to understand until the light suddenly dawns!



John

[Landy Smurf]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1501.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/series%201/P3290001.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1502.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/tonysmera/media/series%201/P3290002.jpg.html)

[123rover50]

Broken axle?

[JDNSW]

Broken axle?

Or rear diff! Didn't think of that!

Might be worth jacking up some wheels and analysing exactly what is going on re four/two wheel drive.

John

[chazza]

Or; chance-in-a-million but it happened to me once - make sure that both propellor shafts are still fitted,

Cheers Charlie

[Carzee]

Or; chance-in-a-million but it happened to me once - make sure that both propellor shafts are still fitted,

Cheers Charlie

bookmarked; I shouldn't opt for the cheap caravan parks.... :)

[chazza]

bookmarked; I shouldn't opt for the cheap caravan parks.... :)

:Rolling::Rolling:

[bentleighboy]

Fantastic guys thats added to my understudying a lot
So despite the yellow knob popping up in LR it is still in 4wd right?
I will try jacking up some wheels to see what happens, and then pull a few panels off and have a look at the mechanism you describe.
Thanks again,

[JDNSW]

Fantastic guys thats added to my understudying a lot
So despite the yellow knob popping up in LR it is still in 4wd right?
I will try jacking up some wheels to see what happens, and then pull a few panels off and have a look at the mechanism you describe.
Thanks again,

You can get at it pretty well just with the driver's floor out. How easy that is, depends on how rusty the bolts are......


John

[Dinty]

And one other item to check, if you still don't have any drive (2wd) at the rear wheels, is to pull the axle cap(s) off, have some-one start and put it into gear and let the clutch out slowly, if the hex nut is turning then you need new drive flanges, they do wear out, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps I know from experience, a long time ago I removed the T/case sump, rear differential, only to find that the drive flange was U.S :(:(:mad::mad:;)

[Landy Smurf]

If you follow this link it shows in a picture how the high low stuff works

EX Army Land Rover Ambulance With Trailer in Sydney, NSW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111245135309'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

Getting those screws/bolts out of the floor panels can be hard, I have broken screw drivers before

[will d8r]

would take center seat etc out and see if drive shaft rotates in high range then look at axle diffs.Cheers Will

[bentleighboy]

Ok, definitely stuck in 4WD when in high. (Paradigm shift- it's not failing to select 2WD, its not getting out of 4WD !) Can't get the little fella unstuck. Does anyone know a Landy garage in Melb they can recommend to sort it?
cheers,

[LR V8]

Series Land Rover Driving Instruction Part 1 - YouTube

;)

Pete

[JDNSW]

Ok, definitely stuck in 4WD when in high. (Paradigm shift- it's not failing to select 2WD, its not getting out of 4WD !) Can't get the little fella unstuck. Does anyone know a Landy garage in Melb they can recommend to sort it?
cheers,

Try Fred Smith Automotive in Wantirna. But if it is failing to disengage, it is probably just the selector shafts rusty inside the dust cover on the front of the transfer case extension, quite an easy job to remove this and clean up with a wire brush.

John

[Blknight.aus]

the yellow knob not coming up is, as stated, usually just contaminated shafts or transmission wind up.

firmly chock the wheels on one side of the vehicle, jack up and axle stand the other side (so both right hand wheels off of the ground)

put the Tcase in neutral and have someone slowly turn the front wheel while you work the levers, it should come free.

If it doesnt pull the caps off of the nose of the tcase and have at the linkages with a gurny (dont go too hard at the seals you'll contaminate the tcase oil) and then the wd40/inox.

[bentleighboy]

Finally have had time to get it out to Fred Smith in Bayswater. What a gun! If we ever organise a land rover trivia night I'll have him on my team. Bad news is, he thinks it is a broken rear axle, so the old girl only gets drive in high with the yellow knob down and the front wheels are being driven. Final diagnosis pending. Options are replace with OE items ( plus diff if there is damage there) or maxi drives. Car will be doing light club work, with dreams of a One Day Simpson desert crossing with the Club. Any strong opinions? I guess you get what you pay for...

[JDNSW]

If it is an 88 with standard engine, I see no problem with OE parts for the use you suggest. If it is a 109 and you are planning to use it for heavy loads offroad, or if power has been upgraded, the I would look at getting a salisbury rear axle rather than any other upgrade.

John