uneven rear brake pad wear

[Ryhoon]

Hi all. My 99 defender 130 has developed an intermittent squeak. Upon looking at the rear pads we found that both pads on either side were wearing at an angle. After removing them we found the plate on the back of the pad only covered half of the pad thereby putting extra pressure on that half of the pad. So my question is...whats going on? Can I just take that plate off? Thanks fender lovers.

[roverrescue]

The plate over half the backing plate is an anti squeel plate and should not cause uneven wear. It essentially sticks the piston to the backing plate.

The retaining pins and housing should prevent leading edge/ trailing edge uneveness.

I would hazard a guess you need to put a seal/piston kit through the calipers and a new set of pads. Pistons may be grabbing and leading to the uneven wear and squeeling.

Steve

[weeds]

i reckon its probably piston related.......don't remove the unit-squeal plate

how uneven is the wear?

my tip is to only use land rover pads.........all my little went away when I change from aftermarket pads

[Blknight.aus]

sticking calpier OR a contaminated pad, usually the inside one gets oil on it and then the outer wears faster, it can also be caused by bad disc wear.

my moneys on sticking pistons in the caliper.


If yo

[Ryhoon]

Thanks guys. I've got some new pads coming tomorrow from modern motors. On each pad the half that the anti squeal pad is on is the part that has worn away. I'll measure it when I replace them but it looks like about 2 maybe 3mm difference from front to back. Also the wear was in a diagonal. That is the outer pad was thinner at the front and the inner pad was thinner at the rear. Same on both sides. Thoughts?

[Ryhoon]

Also the disks all round get really hot. Enough to make steam with a squirt of water. Is this normal?

[roverrescue]

Im still running with sticking pistons, possibly even jammed in the bore pistons... with a slight tilt they could apply angled pressure to the pads

Can you easily push the pistons back into the calipers?
My guess is no...

The brakes should not be getting hot as you report - more evidence that they are applied and not releasing due to sticking pistons.

Just this last weekend I overhauled all calipers and flex lines on my 130. The rear line was blocked (presumably delaminated internally) the rear brakes were thus stuck on and squeeling and heating up as you report.

I can highly recommend NOT just buying any caliper seals. The ones supplied to me were incorrect dimensions and failed to hold fluid. I am awaiting genuine seals from MR to re-do the job.

S

[davrac]

Also the disks all round get really hot. Enough to make steam with a squirt of water. Is this normal?

Yes discs get hot enough to turn water to steam. Very hot. You may still have a seized piston or caliper slide which may make it hotter than it should be.

Sent from my Motorola RAZR XT925

[relatively normal]

A sticking piston sounds expensive and unlikely if it's not binding. Check the calliper sliding bolts (if it has them) they usually get gunned up and stop the whole calliper moving freely. Also cheap pads can cause squeal. If the are too loose the vibrate and if they are too tight they bind. Check the seat of the pads to make sure they are free to move towards and away from the disc, not up and down!

[Ryhoon]

Well the new pads turned up. Land rover genuine ones. I did one side last night and noticed the on the old pads the chamfer on the pads were diaganol to each other , not next to each other and pointing down. Maybe that was causing them to wear at an angle. The pistons moved freely so that rules out sticking pistons. I'll just have to keep on eye on them and see how they wear in. Thanks for all your help.
Ryan.

[n plus one]

Well the new pads turned up. Land rover genuine ones. I did one side last night and noticed the on the old pads the chamfer on the pads were diaganol to each other , not next to each other and pointing down. Maybe that was causing them to wear at an angle. The pistons moved freely so that rules out sticking pistons. I'll just have to keep on eye on them and see how they wear in. Thanks for all your help.
Ryan.

Keep us updated - I'm having a similar issue and would appreciate knowing how the new pads go (just ordered some myself).

[Ryhoon]

I've done a couple of thousand kms and all looks ok at the moment. Have developed a leak between the brake master and the booster. Be getting that checked out this week.
Also getting a new ecu from TRS this week. Cant wait to feel the improvement.
Ryan.

[Ryhoon]

Still had squeaking after replacing the pads but as soon as we replaced the leaking master it stopped. The leaking one was an aftermarket and the new one is genuine.

[Jode]

A sticking piston sounds expensive and unlikely if it's not binding. Check the calliper sliding bolts (if it has them) they usually get gunned up and stop the whole calliper moving freely.
We had this problem with an Isuzu BigHorn we owned once - in fact, its brakes seemed to suffer from a design fault, as we found the same problem with a replacement caliper we bought from the wreckers.

But the landie calipers are fixed - only the pistons/pads move - so this wouldn't be the problem here.