2013 defender trouble.

[stickit]

So my 2013 defender with 11941 ks on the clock just went in for its 2nd service . Bad time just after xmas to get work done , I had no car for 11 days . Things that needed doing were 10000ks service , rear door lock would not open after remote was used and needed key , front brakes were shuddering , rear window was dropping down so it left a gap for dust to get in . Here we go ! Service done . Window they adjusted handle , hope this works . Right brakes ; yes they were warped . Landrover said they won't cover by warranty , driver error and the car had gone over 10000ks . So they have to pull the hubs off to machine and guess what they found the rightside hub was put on wrong , cross threaded nut . They had to replace the front axle and lock nut to fix the prob . As I said wrong time to get parts ! Apparently Land rover were shifting warehouses and there computers were out or some thing like that because when they order items it took the order and put it some where in a file and no one new what was going on . I give the dealer this they gave me a car to use , new Skoda . Has anyone had similar probs .

[cooperrat]

My 2013 90 has the same rear door lock problem also key to open it after remote used. Would be interested in the outcome . Mine has less than 9000ks on it . Looks like a dealer visit is on the cards. Bugga !

[Lagerfan]

Had the rear door lock problem here too, MLR replaced the whole lock and seems to be ok for now. Failed on us halfway down the Oodnadatta with all our gear in the back :( luckily the key still worked with a bit of effort (force) but it was a nervous 10 minutes...

More interested in you getting a 10k service, it's supposed to be 20k for MY13 onwards isn't it?

[beefy]

my rear lock has been replaced.

20k service is correct but my dealer phones, writes letter, emails trying to
get me to do it at 10
even though it's under the service plan.

[Baggy]

Hi Stickit

I'm trying to get my head around your post ......there not charging you for an error at the factory .... I would'nt be paying for corrective work :eek:

My 2c worth ...I'd be ringing comsumer affairs as on any big ticket purchase there is an implied warrentee that a product should last a reasonable amount of time and 12,000ks is not reasonable, specially if
it hasent reached its scheduled 20K's service.

Hope it all gets sorted soon,

Cheers

Baggy

[landy]

With regards to them telling you that the hub nut was cross threaded the workshop manual says to un-stake the nut before removal. The reason is that if you don't there is a chance that the threads will bind and pick up. Most, if not all mechanics fail to do this as it's a ***** to do and takes time. It's much easier to gun the nut off. The result is that they stuff the threads and just tell the service adviser that it was cross threaded, not their fault and it needs a new stub axle. Ultimately leaving the poor sap who trusted his Defender to the "experts" with the bill for their incompetence.
In my opinion it is almost impossible to cross thread a good stub axle and hub nut as you wind on by hand and then torque it to spec. If it's cross threaded you know about it pretty quick and any safety competent technician wouldn't risk the hub failing in operation..

Cheers,

Nino.

[ProjectDirector]

My 2013 has 9000km and thought I had a rear door lock problem. Remote or key would not open it and thought maybe the door moved down a bit from weight of wheel and after some serious off road trips. Sure enough, I gave the door a couple lifts using the attached wheel as lever and opens.
I have to do this after every trip. Maybe it is time for wheel carrier.

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[stickit]

my rear lock has been replaced.

20k service is correct but my dealer phones, writes letter, emails trying to
get me to do it at 10
even though it's under the service plan.
Think he's screwing you !

[stickit]

Hi Stickit

I'm trying to get my head around your post ......there not charging you for an error at the factory .... I would'nt be paying for corrective work :eek:

My 2c worth ...I'd be ringing comsumer affairs as on any big ticket purchase there is an implied warrentee that a product should last a reasonable amount of time and 12,000ks is not reasonable, specially if
it hasent reached its scheduled 20K's service.

Hope it all gets sorted soon,

Cheers

BaggyYour right they were screwing me on the front brake disc's being worped but the hub stuffed them ..

[ATH]

My 2010 had the rear door central locking fail to function and the stealer fixed it and it's been OK since.
Then the high mount stop light failed and they replaced the whole window!!!! WTF.
AlanH.

PS. Wheel carrier being fitted soon.

[Summiitt]

If your defender even looks like it does any off road work, the dealers will try and talk you into the recommended 'arduous conditions' servicing. Which is every 12k, adds up in price though... I meet them halfway and get my 130 done at 15k instead of the standard 20k service intervals...I do about 5k a month, a lot of it in forestry and dirt/ off road driving and heavy towing, 10k servicing is simply a pain in the butt as I can't go without the ute for work for a day every 2 months.

[stickit]

If your defender even looks like it does any off road work, the dealers will try and talk you into the recommended 'arduous conditions' servicing. Which is every 12k, adds up in price though... I meet them halfway and get my 130 done at 15k instead of the standard 20k service intervals...I do about 5k a month, a lot of it in forestry and dirt/ off road driving and heavy towing, 10k servicing is simply a pain in the butt as I can't go without the ute for work for a day every 2 months. So you get the engine oil changed every 15000ks ? Ive always been told diesel eng's need doing every 5ks . It does depend on the oil capacity in the sump , if it does'nt hold a large amount say 10ltrs then change it . Hilux only hold 5 ltrs and 15ks is way to long . Common rails are the same and my mechanic said if you were to push it out to 10ks make sure the oil is really good . ( Top Dog ) My grandfather said oil is the cheapest thing you can put in your car !

[tuesdayfox]

my rear door lock failed me after only 3 months' ownership from new
remote didn't unlock rear door and had to use the key

I thought it was due to dust build-up and use some WD 40 to clean it
and it has been working since....now 16k kms on the clock

might work for you

Cheers
Martin

[Lagerfan]

I thought it was due to dust build-up ...

Pretty sure ours was dust build up too, that and about 600-700km of corrugations that went with it. Sounded like it was "trying" to unlock and just not making it.

We also have a spare wheel carrier (Rijidij) so weight on the back door shouldn't have been a problem in our case.

[Babs]

Had the rear door lock problem here too, MLR replaced the whole lock and seems to be ok for now. Failed on us halfway down the Oodnadatta with all our gear in the back :( luckily the key still worked with a bit of effort (force) but it was a nervous 10 minutes... More interested in you getting a 10k service, it's supposed to be 20k for MY13 onwards isn't it?

MY12 are a 20k service, I still get mine done every 10k.

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[Babs]

With regards to them telling you that the hub nut was cross threaded the workshop manual says to un-stake the nut before removal. The reason is that if you don't there is a chance that the threads will bind and pick up. Most, if not all mechanics fail to do this as it's a ***** to do and takes time. It's much easier to gun the nut off. The result is that they stuff the threads and just tell the service adviser that it was cross threaded, not their fault and it needs a new stub axle. Ultimately leaving the poor sap who trusted his Defender to the "experts" with the bill for their incompetence. In my opinion it is almost impossible to cross thread a good stub axle and hub nut as you wind on by hand and then torque it to spec. If it's cross threaded you know about it pretty quick and any safety competent technician wouldn't risk the hub failing in operation.. Cheers, Nino.

I know not to tighten the wheel nuts with a impact wrench, but are you say not to loosen them as well when removing?

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[Bush65]

I know not to tighten the wheel nuts with a impact wrench, but are you say not to loosen them as well when removing?

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Babs, not the wheel nuts, it is the nut for the wheel bearings on the spindle, often called the hub nut.

They used to use a pair of nuts and a tab washer to prevent the nut from unloosening, but changed to a single nut which has a section that is "punched' into a groove in the spindle so it can't loosen.

The removal procedure is to reverse 'punch' the section of nut so it can be undone (the nut is not re-usable).

What happens is the lazy gorilla/mechanic, doesn't do this and instead use an impact wrench to force the nut off. The part of the nut that was in the keyway damages the end threads on the spindle, which in turn damage the threads inside the new nut, which then damages the rest of the threads on the spindle.

The appearance of the damaged threads is similar to that caused by cross threading the nut.

[Bush65]

Dust in door locks, preventing them from operating properly is a common issue.

The numnuts at Land Rover design doors so the locks are outside of the door seals where they are exposed to dust :no2::no2::no2:

Other manufacturers with far fewer years designing vehicles for off road know that locks should be inside the door seals out of the dust.

[stickit]

Dust in door locks, preventing them from operating properly is a common issue.

The numnuts at Land Rover design doors so the locks are outside of the door seals where they are exposed to dust :no2::no2::no2:

Other manufacturers with far fewer years designing vehicles for off road know that locks should be inside the door seals out of the dust.

Well if it's dust that stuffs the rear lock ; then look out dealer because I live on a dirt road !!! The new lock makes a hell of a noise closing and they will have to fix , even thou I have used all of the adjustments on the catch to prevent it hitting .

[Breeza]

This is my first post -purchased defender 90 - MY2013 - last October
Last owned series III utes in the late 80's -man has got be mad - nothing much has changed !
just the usual niggling problems to date

Thanks to this forum I have checked all the hoses

The bottom precooler hose to the turbo is being badly rubbed by the hexagonal steering shaft (towards the aft end) OK when cool the hose obviously expands in operation
Breeza

[rgty_kmj]

Thanks for that. Just checked mine (2012 110) and it is rubbing in the same place

Kerry

[Rick Fischer]

Had rear door lock replaced in the SVX last year on account of it would need key after "slam". Would be current actuator/lock.

Can't slam now on account of gas strut. However still need key every second time or so.

Falls into category of "pommy" and "LR" - Live with it - otherwise go buy japanese or Korean :) (ERK!)

Cheers

RF

[Pickles2]

Had a look in the engine bay of our '13 90 yesterday, from the top & underneath, & I couldn't see any hoses that were being "rubbed". There was one top hose that was the closest to any of the belts, but it was held in place by a steel bracket.
Have I missed something,..precisely where should I look?
Thanks, Pickles.

[n plus one]

Had a look in the engine bay of our '13 90 yesterday, from the top & underneath, & I couldn't see any hoses that were being "rubbed". There was one top hose that was the closest to any of the belts, but it was held in place by a steel bracket.
Have I missed something,..precisely where should I look?
Thanks, Pickles.

IIRC, it's the lower IC hose that rubs on the steering knuckle?

Edit: see Breeza's post above.

[Pickles2]

This is my first post -purchased defender 90 - MY2013 - last October
Last owned series III utes in the late 80's -man has got be mad - nothing much has changed !
just the usual niggling problems to date

Thanks to this forum I have checked all the hoses

The bottom precooler hose to the turbo is being badly rubbed by the hexagonal steering shaft (towards the aft end) OK when cool the hose obviously expands in operation
Breeza
So, how do I see this from the top of the engine (lifting bonnet), or is it only visible from underneath,....presumably passenger side of vehicle?
Pickles.

[n plus one]

So, how do I see this from the top of the engine (lifting bonnet), or is it only visible from underneath,....presumably passenger side of vehicle?
Pickles.

Bonnet up, driver's side, follow the steering shaft from the firewall to the steering box, look for a lack of clearance to the big hose running from the IC to the turbo.

Remember that your engine can move on its mounts a bit when driving - so if there's only a small amount if clearance make sure you feel the hose for signs of rubbing.