P38 air suspension

[keith5]

Have replaced all airbags and reconditioned the valve block and compressor. Still have a slow leak ....... Double checked for any leaks in the obvious places but how can u check the hoses themselves?

Thanks

[wayneg]

Simplest way I can think of is fit a set of these.......
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/328.jpg

Blow them up and see if the car drops significantly on any corner. Soapy water is also a good idea at connections.
My money is on the solenoid plunger rubber ends leaking because of the indent developed with age. There has been a thread in the last few weeks about this. I have since sanded the rubbers on one of my cars and it has sat four square for two weeks after the work.
Did you change the exhaust diaphragm in the valve block

[TheTree]

HI,

You could also pull the EAS timer relay which is under the passengers seat when you park it and see if it still goes down

There is also this stick at rr.net

EAS Troubleshooting Tips (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html)

Regards
Steve

[keith5]

Have pulled out timer but still slow leak.
Next step is to put valves back on and see if I can isolate it wayneg as you suggested. I have reconditioned the valve block with all new rubbers and the green switch.
Should I def be able to detect a leak with soapy water in the valve block area.
Ie pipe inlets...

Other prob I have had before removing fuse to eas was the battery going flat but I think that was because the pump was trying to keep the height ? Oh and alternator fault.

Might just put coils on her....

[davidsonsm]

Keith, is it sinking one corner only, front first or all four uniformly? That should help to pinpoint your issue.

Did you notice the condition of the NRV's during the rebuild.

[TheTree]

Might just put coils on her....

Hi

I am sorry buy foul language is not permitted in this forum :o

Steve

[TheTree]

Have pulled out timer but still slow leak.
Next step is to put valves back on and see if I can isolate it wayneg as you suggested. I have reconditioned the valve block with all new rubbers and the green switch.
Should I def be able to detect a leak with soapy water in the valve block area.
Ie pipe inlets...

Other prob I have had before removing fuse to eas was the battery going flat but I think that was because the pump was trying to keep the height ? Oh and alternator fault.

Might just put coils on her....

HI

If you have a bypass kit with a pressure gauge you can see exactly what is going on. You can isolate the sections to find the leak

The pump will not run with the ignition off, it sounds like you have an electrical issue as well :angry:

Another rr.net sticky gives you a good start down this road.

Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010 (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/28663-sticky-electrical-troubleshooting-updated-2010-a.html)

You can purchase just the regulator for a reasonable price

Good luck
Steve

[keith5]

Sorry Steve ...lol it is just frustrating....
Hmmm might invest in a bypass kit then..
Who sells the best?
Sinks in the back right hand first I think .....Dave....
Valve block looked good.
I have disconnected the pipes and put valves on them so will
See how she sits in the morning.....
Did notice they were a bit rough at the ends so maybe this is the problem?

[Hoges]

If the pipes are a "bit rough" then they probably need to be trimmed.
Trim about 3-4mm only from the end of each pipe. Make sure you cut them exactly "square". Then get a pencil sharpener and carefully cut a small chamfer (about 2mm is ample) on the end of each pipe, to assist penetration through the 2 o-rings without dislodging them. Good luck with it!

[davidsonsm]

And put some vaselene on the ends of the hose/tube. Aids penetration. Ew er misses.

[wayneg]

I have reconditioned the valve block with all new rubbers and the green switch.
Might just put coils on her....

I think you have missed the suggestion I was making. I am not talking about the O rings. On the end of each of the solenoid pistons there is a rubber section, not changeable as far as I can tell. These get indented in the area where they seal. Removal and grinding down to remove the indent in a drill press gives a new flat surface. I have just put a car back onto air springs after removing the coils fitted by the previous owner. The car has pretty much sat four square since the work. Look back over posts in the last few weeks to get pics of the offending part

[TheTree]

Hi Keith,

It seems there is not a specific bypass kit around any more, so you need a set of those valves, some t-pieces and some 6mm air tubing a pressure gauge and them something to mount the valves on.

Your local Pirtex branch will have the tubing, but their t-pieces all seem to be metal.

Someone on here will have a source for the t-pieces I am sure.

A little work involved, but the peace of mind and extra flexibility you gain is well worth it

Steve

[wayneg]

I am not a fan of the permanently installed bypass kit. More places to leak, more expensive and stuck on one car. Those valves can be had from e-bay or no doubt Pirtek. They sit in my glove box and can be fitted in a couple of minutes. You can also assist others if the need arises. They work well, I have used them in anger several times and once did the full length of the Holland Track and back to Perth using them.

[TheTree]

Hi,

I noticed you have not said whether or not you have checked or replaced the o-rings on the air reservoir and the dryer.

Common leakage places as well.

Steve

[Robsrod 58]

I am not a fan of the permanently installed bypass kit. More places to leak, more expensive and stuck on one car. Those valves can be had from e-bay or no doubt Pirtek. They sit in my glove box and can be fitted in a couple of minutes. You can also assist others if the need arises. They work well, I have used them in anger several times and once did the full length of the Holland Track and back to Perth using them.

Agree 100%....

Don't insert more leak points, their fussy enough!!