4 axel stands - how safe?

[redandy3575]

Hey all

Just wanna ask how safe is it to put the p38 on 4 individual axel stands? And if so, how best to raise it without having the car topple over?

Cheers

[PhilipA]

As long as you have the stronger type 4 leg 4WD axle stands no problem. make sure that each is rated over 1000Kg and preferably 2000Kg.

I have 2x4 leg and 2xflat plate and still no problem.

Just lift each axle in turn in the middle with a trolley jack and gently lower onto the axle stands. I usually put them just outboard of the suspension arms as there seems to be a perfect position there. On the front the axle may lift a bit lopsided but set both stands the same height.

Make sure the axles are square in the cups in the axle stands and there is no sideways cocking. This is all easy enough. I always do the front first and use the strongest stands on the front.
Regards Philip A

[tonic]

It works well, but like has been said, use 4x4 ones or truck. Call me old fashion, but if I'm getting under there, I will generally put a couple of the tyres under the corner closet to where I'm working, at least it something was to happen the tyres and rims might just stop the car from coming down the whole way, but that's just me.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You would only want to do it when you have a concrete or bitumen surface underneath. But even then I am reluctant to have a vehicle on 4 stands.

I would rather do the job one end at a time, or one side at a time.

As has been said if you must use 4, put a wheel and rim under a low point of the car (like under a beam axle), one on either side of you. This should leave you some space and allow breathing should the unthinkable happen.

You should also have a rescue plan and someone who knows your doing it and will check on you every few minutes.

Big thick hardwood blocks cut from railway sleepers stacked on their wide side as a pyramid are frequently safer, because they don't twist, bend, fall over, crush or slip from metal to metal contact.

[Hoges]

There are only three points front and rear recommended by LR to raise the P38. These are under the diff housing and outboard of the radius arms as per Philip A's post. I use 2000kg (ea) rated jacks stands each standing on a sheet of 1/2"ply.

With the EAS, the wheel base actually changes a small amount sufficient to put a slight stress on the jack stands if it is operated through its range while the vehicle is raised on the axles.

So: before using a floor jack I raise the vehicle to max height on the EAS and then place a 130mm wooden block (hardwood) between each axle plate and bump stop stub. I then remove the EAS relay under the passenger seat to disable the system.
Then use a floor jack to raise the vehicle to the required height and place jack stands under the axles as above. I then place another 4 jack stands: 2 under the front chassis cross member and two at the rear under the towbar cross member. I've got it organised that when the vehicle "settles" a couple of mm onto the wooden blocks due to airbags changing temperature / small leaks etc (2-4mm per day) as it inevitably will, there are 8 stands supporting both the axles and chassis "almost" equally. It's rock steady.

Contractor killed in accident at Cairns zoo | Cairns Post (http://www.cairnspost.com.au/news/cairns/contractor-killed-in-accident-at-cairns-zoo/story-fnjpusyw-1226812422901) This happened last week and underlines the safety issues. The poor chap was a mate of my son-in-law. As Lotz-A -Landies advises...you need an escape plan and someone around to check regularly who knows what to do!!.

[benji]

I'm not sure about under the axle, but with the 4leg 2000kg stands under the chassis I can't rock it off (I've tried; as the little one likes to 'help' sometimes).

In saying that though, the high lift jack is always in the bar, and a tire under the chassis on either side.

It's worth noting with any BW rover that if the rear axle is off the ground, and the ground is not level, it will creep downhill.

PS, the little one is not allowed under the car when any of the wheels are off.

[DoubleChevron]

I'd never get under something supported on 4 axle stands ..........wwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy too tipsy. I prefer to leave two well chocked wheels on the ground. It's really easy to push a car off the stands when it's support on 4 jack stands in my experience.

I'm really careful about getting under cars .... so many people have been squished working on cars with air/hydraulics that collapse, let alone leaving them swinging from 4 moveable points. If the jack stands were bolted to the ground it would be safe though.

seeya,
Shane L.

[redandy3575]

Ok I've put the 4 4 ton rated axel stands underneath both the front and rear axels with 2 mud terrain wheels underneath as well as 2 extra support stands beneath the chassis as well as wheel ramps on the front wheels for safety. The reason this done so I can remove the transmission using a Jack with a transmission cradle to support the weight of the trany to move back about a foot to access the flywheel and flexplate. The axel stands are fairly sturdy, but need to get the vehicle high enough to work on. Any further suggestions are appreciated.

[Keithy P38]

Dig a pit in your back yard and line it with timber!

[Hoges]

You seem to have it pretty well covered.
The reason for letting the vehicle settle on wooden blocks between the axle plate and bump stop was to preclude any movement between the sprung/unsprung sections so that when, for instance you remove the weight of transfer case/ auto trans etc, the vehicle body won't rise on the air springs due to reduced weight.
good luck with the work!

[bushrover]

When using stands or lifting gear only two points are used when rating the lifting or support capacity. Two stands must be rated to hold the complete load. If using 4 stands there is potential for two to be holding nothing. If lifting with chains, same thing, two legs must be rated for the complete load, whether using three leg or four leg chains.

I use 4 x 3000kg stands on concrete under all light vehicles I work on at home. One of them is a screw stand, so it can be adjusted to try to even the load on all four. I should have added I usually drive the front up on ramps, jack the rear, and support, and then the front and remove the ramps. I don't trust the flimsy Chinese ramps I have.

Rick

[redandy3575]

You seem to have it pretty well covered.
The reason for letting the vehicle settle on wooden blocks between the axle plate and bump stop was to preclude any movement between the sprung/unsprung sections so that when, for instance you remove the weight of transfer case/ auto trans etc, the vehicle body won't rise on the air springs due to reduced weight.
good luck with the work!

Thanks mate, I'm gonna need it!!

Yeah there's no air left in the springs as the car hasn't been driven for about 2 1/2 months, and already rested her on the bump stops. I see your point though.

[81stubee]

I use 4 x 4000kg (Chinese - Derate to 3000kg) axle stands. Depends on what part i'm working on. In some cases i''l put two under the chassis at the junction of the rear cross member.

As always, i give the car a good shake before getting underneath, and usually i have a few blocks located in various areas as a safety backup.
Short of having a 4 post hoist, that is about all you can do.