Digger's next Series 1, 80" 1950.

[digger]

all I have is a photo, (not a great one either)..

Its early... after that do tell?..

72770

[V8Ian]

Is it a photo or a postage stamp Digger? ;)

[Mick_Marsh]

I disagree. I think it is a recent photo.
Glad to be of help.

[digger]

OK I deserved that... :)


This is apparently coming up for sale soon near me... so I am told.

all the bloke knew is its a land rover- cannot tell me any more


and I cant make the photo bigger... has firewall lights, radiator support panel design is obvious, poss later windscreen, interesting front bumper, interesting canvas?

[Mick_Marsh]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I'm guessing it's early. Very early.
I'm also guessing you're going to buy it.

What's the chassis number? Can you find it?

I would love to know what you find out once you've bought it.

[klonk]

1950 or earlier, radiator panel is lights behind grill type, hard to tell but bumper mounts could be fishplate mounts or homemade to suit bumper
A photo drivers side floor would show if it's a ring pull gearbox and handbrake lever type can help date things as we'll.
A serial no tells all. There is also something to do with the land rover? Badge on the frontguard. Others might know,
best let me come and look at it!

Steve

[incisor]

i reckon its a oct / nov 49 build 50 model

:angel:

[UncleHo]

It's definitely pre Spring(April) 51,80 inch WB, I would say that Incisor is on the money,the chassis number could well be on the left side close to the left engine mount,it may well still have the 1600cc motor in it, or a 2 litre replacement,(overhead inlet & side valve exhaust) as that was common,looks to be reasonably original,and definitely a restoration prospect ,have a word with ZuluDelta534, as he has recently restored a 50 or 51 model from memory.

cheers

[digger]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/72770d1392206504-series-1-but-what-can-you-tell-me-about-series.jpg

I'm guessing it's early. Very early.
I'm also guessing you're going to buy it.

What's the chassis number? Can you find it?

I would love to know what you find out once you've bought it.

I have been told about it and its apparently coming up for sale "near me soon", (still chasing where /when!) but looks like its grounded (chassis on ground at rear at least on diff) and so could hav e a roached chassis... firewall looks "dark" but with just this photo I cant see anymore..


I thought it was early for obvious reasons but figured Id ask what others thought... I am tempted to try and get this and eventually sneak up on a '48/49 bit by bit (mine is very rusty :( )

completely off topic...
As Klonk said, what is the badge on the front pass side mudguard / front panel?


If I find out more I shall let anyone who's interested know.

[digger]

Ive found out where it is, its coming up in a sale soon.

Its about 1.5 - 2hrs from me, so as I am mates with one of those involved with the sale (not the person who first tipped me off!) I have arranged a sneak peak.

Speaking to rels of the owner, its not moved or at least wasn't used for 30 maybe 40 years...

I shall take what photos and get whatever info I can!!

Cheers
Digger

[digger]

double post..

[digger]

Turns out its a ringpull. I assume 1950 , Radiator is 10/49. Photos when i finish doing plasma.
Next question is what should i pay..its at a sale.. motor etc havent been used for up to 40 years. doesnt seem rusty

[incisor]

Turns out its a ringpull. I assume 1950 , Radiator is 10/49. Photos when i finish doing plasma.
Next question is whatshouldi pay..its at a sale.. motor etchaventbeenusedfor upto 40 years. doesnt seem rusty

told ya :p

[digger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/372.jpg

Model year:- 1950

06103608


Model: Land Rover, Series I, 80in, petrol, basic body
Destination: Right-hand drive (RHD), home market

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/373.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/374.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/375.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/151.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/376.jpg

[digger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/363.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/364.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/365.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/366.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/367.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/368.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/369.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/370.jpg

[digger]

The damage to the rear cross member
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/351.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/352.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/353.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/354.jpg

Notice that on the floor?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/355.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/356.jpg


Mightve been a long time but thats still oil not treacle

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/357.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/358.jpg


note the metal buttons..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/359.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/360.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/361.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/362.jpg

[digger]

so what do we think is a good value to bid??

[slug_burner]

If you get it for less than $1k I'd say it was fair. More than $2k and I'd need to take a few deep breaths.

[russellrovers]

so what do we think is a good value to bid??it would be good to get the carby no and the dizzy date its well worth the rebuild price how longs a piece of string early motor matching no gearbox matching diffs your half way there good luck bidding jim

[incisor]

under 1k you get a bargain.

nice find...

[zulu Delta 534]

If you don't go for it Digger I will have to start worrying a bit more about you.
I wouldn't pay full price though as I reckon those tyres may need some attention before you get a roadworthy.
You have access to other series bits and it looks pretty good and solid really so there is no real problem (with the car at least - marital bliss, I stay well out of any discussions).
In the end it will be well worth it, more so than a lot of others purely because of its age.
(Full time 4WD too, just like the Puma!)
If you get it for $1k you have a bargain, as stated above.
Regards
Glen

[digger]

told ya :p

Well, I should never have doubted ya Dave....
You should change from Inc to Oracle!
:D

[incisor]

did you see what is it like under the windscreen?

wonder what the history is...

and that badge on the front guard... who fitted that i wonder.

[digger]

did you see what is it like under the windscreen?

wonder what the history is...

and that badge on the front guard... who fitted that i wonder.

Fuel tank base was only spot I could see real rust, firewall seemed good from top to bottom.

Badge looks properly made...

[klonk]

Agreed price wise.Looks in good condition for age. The badge on the front guard I think was dealer fitted, (don't know which one )abit like Annard and Thompson painting land rover on the tail gate and the drivers front guard of their early 80"s they sold. I've seen photos on here but can't find them again.
Wheres Diana ! She would know. Maybe this should be moved to the series one section.

[digger]

My budget is short of that but I am hoping to get someone to bid for me anyway...

If I cannot find someone I shall have to ditch playing cricket and go myself!

(Which, frankly I would maybe enjoy... even though we may make the finals...I'd be alright with that but we are short for players at the moment....sad isnt it?)

[wrinklearthur]

That badge is close to what I remember was fitted to the 80" that a, long time deceased, friend Les Wells owned.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/151.jpg
.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I am looking forward to the resto pics already!:cool::D

[UncleHo]

If that vehicle is home market model that would indicate it was a private import,possibly a station owner in UK purchased it and had it shipped home,as it would sure beat riding a horse the mudguard badge alone would make it unique and with it's originality I would advise you to go for it,vehicles that age and that complete don't come up that often.

Just my thoughts, pity it is so far from me.

[Mick_Marsh]

My budget is short of that but I am hoping to get someone to bid for me anyway...

If I cannot find someone I shall have to ditch playing cricket and go myself!

(Which, frankly I would maybe enjoy... even though we may make the finals...I'd be alright with that but we are short for players at the moment....sad isnt it?)
Where is it Digger?
I'm just hitching the trailer.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

RUN Digger!!!:o

[zulu Delta 534]

If the worst comes to the worst Digger, I could possibly stand in for you in the cricket. I can't play the game but I am capable of carrying out celebrations of loss/win after the game quite capably.
Regards
Glen

[digger]

Where is it Digger?
I'm just hitching the trailer.

You bring me a gunbuggy and we'll swap :twisted:

Ive now ditched cricket tomorrow... feeling like a mongrel.. :(
but off to the sale... and it starts early.

[incisor]

best of british with it!

[digger]

RUN Digger!!!:o

But this is my M.O., you cant just rock up out of the blue with a trailer and try and leave with someone elses car.....


hold on..... this sounds strangely familiar........

gunbuggys and fire engine are excepted!

[Mick_Marsh]

You bring me a gunbuggy and we'll swap :twisted:
Since christmas, I've seen three.
Here's a teaser.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/256.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/REMLR/DSC_3512.jpg.html)

[V8Ian]

My Car is My Lover (http://www.yourtv.com.au/guide/event.aspx?program_id=260752&event_id=58678654&region_id=75)

If the cap fits.................

[incisor]

thats my new word for the day "mechaphiles"

lucky all my landies are over 18 :angel:

[V8Ian]

thats my new word for the day "mechaphiles"

lucky all my landies are over 18 :angel:

On 22 now Dave. :confused:

[digger]

Since christmas, I've seen three.
Here's a teaser.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/256.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/REMLR/DSC_3512.jpg.html)

MMM is that SA3 MMM

[digger]

:D...

[pop058]

:D...

I take that means you own it :cool:

[wrinklearthur]

:D...
I think I know what that smile is for?

And it wasn't because that the team won their cricket either.

.

[V8Ian]

Onya Digger, I'll have to keep an eye out for some GB currency. ;)

[JDNSW]

More details and pictures expected!

John

[Pedro_The_Swift]

:ttiwwp:

[wrinklearthur]

Anyway, who did win the cricket match?

[zulu Delta 534]

I feel that I let him down badly in regards to the cricket, as I couldn't make it in the end.
Regards
Glen

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Anyway, who did win the cricket match?

I think it was called off due to a series of incidents:angel:

[digger]

Good Morning!!

Yes its mine, all mine
(insert evil laugh here)

I know the auctioneer, hes a stock agent and does auctions/clearing sales etc. On arrival yesterday I started enquiring if maybe we could alter the direction of the auction so I could get out and play cricket...

The landy was moved up :)

Just before it was due I got called to the house phone (no phone range here) and was advised by my wife that Loxton North, the top of the table team we were due to play at Loxton at 1pm.....had forfeited...I'm sure it was to do me a favour...(or because they have mardi gras and their players were all on the turps!) although I suspect it was because we threatened to import a player from qld to outdrink....sorry I mean to outplay them :) x2

Up comes the landy, pressure is off for cricket and on for the sale!
There have been constant streams of people looking at the car, there are about 450 people at the sale and mobs of car trailers and trucks in the car park, also scrappies hovering...one bloke produced a car jack and was looking underneath !! :eek::o that isnt a casual interest! :(

That said up it comes, furious bidding results..... and on my 5th or 6th bid the auctioneer knocked it down to me !! BOBCAT MODE ON!!!! (happy little digger!)

So then I have borrowed as tra:(iler from a mate who had one with him and with the assistance of a FEL with forks been able to load it up (he was lifting the rear bar as I winched the car up and on.

Home and happy!

Further inspection and some pressure washing revealed the following rust,
Fuel tank is toasted....very very badly,
the brake/clutch fluid 'tin' is also toasted... badly

as far as I can see....THATS IT! have found none in the firewall, chassis or even the under gearbox cross member!

I'll add some photos more than already on... eg under etc..
now I need a name for him...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/220.jpg
Taken when I stopped to do some dust suppression on the way home.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/221.jpg
Before cleaning...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/222.jpg

how many leaf springs should there be here?? looks a lot!

more to come (late breakky time :) )

[wrinklearthur]

Name?

Due to runs on the board scoring the Landy and inference to cricket.

" The Don "

Howsthat!
.

[digger]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/210.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/211.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/212.jpg
:(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/213.jpg
Redkote fix it do you think ?...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/214.jpg
MMMM :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/215.jpg

more later... (these were taken before it has been washed)

[digger]

Maybe a mod want to 'sling' this over to the series 1 area??


cheers

and maybe a name change if possible, s1 80 1950 or similar..

thanks..

[digger]

Oh, got it for $400.
(and about $100 in fuel)

a good day.

[JDNSW]

Yes, sounds like a good day - and a lot of work coming up!

John

[klonk]

A good pickup, it's been abit quiet on here lately, except for Dinty.

[Mrbreeze66]

completely off topic...
As Klonk said, what is the badge on the front pass side mudguard / front panel?


If I find out more I shall let anyone who's interested know.

G'day Digger,

I have a June '49 built 80 with a similar badge. It was purchased in October 1949 from Grenville motors Sydney and I am told that they affixed the badges for a while but not certain how long

Hope this helps,

Dean

[numpty]

Well done Digger.

Looks like a fair bit of work to do there.

[russellrovers]

Maybe a mod want to 'sling' this over to the series 1 area??


cheers

and maybe a name change if possible, s1 80 1950 or similar..

thanks..well done another one road jim

[Dinty]

Well done mate!, nice little rig, my dream/nightmare is to find a 49 model July preferred LOL but that ain't never gonna happen, cheers Dennis

[Orkney 90]

What an absolutely wonderful find! It would have been such a shame if it would have gone to scrap... I am so looking forward to seeing more and the restoration process, I'll be watching this space with much interest!

[OverlandByLR]

Hi Digger
What engine is it side plate or core plug?
(can't read the engine number in the photo)
Are you coming to Melrose??
Nice Find
Have fun with it
All the best
Kc

[back_in]

Hi Mate
interesting piece of history you have acquired
one wonders what she that scare the pants off you when the latest pride and Joy arrive home had to say!!!!!
are you working permanent night shift at the states finest task force.
you could have save yourself and the local Marine dealer a load of work and removed a couple of mine from the shed
are well they are still here when required
will we see you at Melrose this year, married or divorced?
speaking of marriage, went down that road late Dec2013
the third time, some do not learn...... Hey
cheers
Ian

[incisor]

WELL DONE DIGGER!

[digger]

Hi Digger
What engine is it side plate or core plug?
(can't read the engine number in the photo)
Are you coming to Melrose??
Nice Find
Have fun with it
All the best
Kc

Engine number is 862356, is from early in production.
most bits of car are 10/'49 stamped.

I have an earlier tray in better nick, a set of 5 split rims (land rover ones),
another windscreen, and some early doors, one side of which has the wire type top hinge. but none for the other side (wire top hinge)

still dont have seat backs, I suppose I can make the bases.
I have a straight grab handle (I think) some but not all dash bits...
fuel tank, brake /clutch tin...Ill be looking for a bit I think...

Should it be + or neg earth?
Both battery clamps are same size so no help there!

and no key slot and half wires hanging from dash--might take a while to start the bugger!. :(

Fan is a straight bar two bladed thing, I assume it should be 4 bladed.

[digger]

Hi Mate
interesting piece of history you have acquired
one wonders what she that scare the pants off you when the latest pride and Joy arrive home had to say!!!!!

Minister for War and Fianace approved thankyou!!
(not loved..nor even liked but approved! :)


are you working permanent night shift at the states finest task force.

seems like it but 3 weeks nights, 1 week days and start again.

you could have save yourself and the local Marine dealer a load of work and removed a couple of mine from the shed
are well they are still here when required

If I "removed a couple" from your shed you'd report em stolen ya bugger :)

will we see you at Melrose this year,

I hope so, but still not sure

<<snip>> divorced?
I hope not!

speaking of marriage, went down that road late Dec2013
the third time, some do not learn...... Hey

Congrats Ian!



...

[JDNSW]

.......
Should it be + or neg earth?
Both battery clamps are same size so no help there!

...

All Landrovers were positive earth up to 1967, so, positive earth. (Positive earth was standard for most vehicles, particularly British ones, into the late fifties at least. There is a fairly obscure reason for this - given the standard Kettering ignition layout, the spark polarity gives slightly better performance, at least in theory.

John

[wrinklearthur]

Telephone exchanges have a 48 volt positive earth system.
When I asked why, I was told it was to reduce damage by corrosion to exchange equipment, stemming from the days when underground telephone lines were lead sheathed and electrolysis became a problem .

The positive earth system in British cars, I was again told was to combat electrolysis. I had more trouble with the generator wearing out than I ever did with electrolysis in the Series 0ne's. That said, I would keep the positive earth for originality sake.
.

[wrinklearthur]

---- There is a fairly obscure reason for this - given the standard Kettering ignition layout, the spark polarity gives slightly better performance, at least in theory.

I remember seeing a diagram in a book, of a lead pencil being used to show which way the spark was jumping across the gap on a spark plug.

Anyone holding that pencil IMHO was being setup to have a instant brain revival. :twisted:
.

[JDNSW]

From "The Electrical Equipment of Automobiles" S.P.Smith, London 1945:-
"The common practice in GB up to about 1937 was negative earth though there was no particular virtue connected to it. On its merits, it is largely a matter of corrosion, which is usually less when the positive terminal is earthed..... There are points in connection with the high voltage system that also bear on this question. ....if the high voltage terminal of the coil is positive, the revolving distributor electrode and the centre plug electrode burn more rapidly....Again, the plug voltage depends largely on the temperature of the negative electrode, the hotter the electrode the lower the voltage. As the centre electrode is hotter...a lower voltage is needed when this is negative."

With conventional coils (autotransformer winding) positive earth give a negative HT terminal. The effects of polarity discussed above are fairly minor, and when the electronics industry adopted the widespread use of NPN transistors, and car radios became more common, in the 1960s, it was seen as an advantage to change to negative earth, and virtually everyone did.

Until about the 1970s car radios were widely available that could be used on either polarity.

The corrosion discussed above will only happen when there are leakage currents due to moisture.

John

[back_in]

Thanks mate
you will have to come shopping in my shed
Kc and I found 2 80" speedo's in a drum last weekend, while cleaning up
do have a straight panic bar in 60 odd year old galv
Ute cab etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc not forgetting nuts, bolts, screws.
I could not think of a better way to spend all that night allowance you are getting
you may have to retire early just to finish this one!!!
see you Easter
cheers
Ian

[digger]

Afrer much soaking oil in, tonight removed all 4 rims, one brought studs out on 3 of the 5 nuts :(

All 4 are off now anyhow, most look reasonable and a sand blast and paint look like they'll see them right.

All 4 are circle stamped 4/49 (I noticed on my 52 that there is no circle just straight numbers 10/51)

Couple questions..
1) chassis number is: 06103608, this is before the supposed cut off of marking these numbers with R or L prefix.... why is it this one has neither?

2) On the engine mount where the number is situated it is prefixed by much smaller stamped numbers I believe read 1404 - I assume this is a factory number -I recall hearing something about it but cannot recall what.

3) Will the tub on an actual 49 fit this chassis direct? (I assume it will I cannot see any direct differences.)

4) What centre mirror would be the go?

5) The headlights can be replaced with TRACTA lights?? or was it with Massey Ferg lights? Parts numbers or names please?

Cheers folks..

[Tote]

Repro Massey Ferguson lights are available here : Bare Co - MF Select Electrical (http://www.bareco.com.au/files-masseY2001-selelectrical)

Regards,
Tote

[wrinklearthur]

Repro Massey Ferguson lights are available here : Bare Co - MF Select Electrical (http://www.bareco.com.au/files-masseY2001-selelectrical)
X2

Ref; Bare Co - MF - Base Mount High / Low Beam Headlamp (http://www.bareco.com.au/files-masseY2001-mF67c)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/112.jpg

B1435
BASE MOUNT HIGH/LOW BEAM HEADLAMP 12 VOLT
*CAN BE CONVERTED TO Q.HALOGEN BY ORDERING B1581 Q.H. BULB
.

[digger]

OK, surely there's a way I can wire the motor to see if I can get it to start?

The existing wiring is pretty average and there are no colours left in it which makes it hard to tell which one should do what!!

But I am impatient and would like to spin it over if it will, so imagine you have the motor sitting there wireless (with spark leads etc fitted)

a) what goes from where to where, (I'll need a step by step!! :p)


Appreciate anything that will help..

Out of curiosity, In the original set of leads on the car, each spark lead had a button "inline" (see photos) with end of spark lead attached to opposite holes which Im lead to believe is an old flathead V8 owner trick

It's a bit like getting an awkward oiled up two stroke to fire, remove the plug lead and hold it about 1/4" from the plug and 90% of the time it will fire due to the magneto having to provide more oomph to jump the gap.

The 'button trick' as I understand it places the button on plug leads has the same effect, it actually made a false gap in the cable, again the spark was intensified and gave a better start especially with an oily plug... I have since heard that a clear piece of plastic tube used to do the same thing..

What this means about the motor I don't know??
(bad compression?)

[chazza]

OK, surely there's a way I can wire the motor to see if I can get it to start?

The existing wiring is pretty average and there are no colours left in it which makes it hard to tell which one should do what!!

But I am impatient and would like to spin it over if it will, so imagine you have the motor sitting there wireless (with spark leads etc fitted)

a) what goes from where to where, (I'll need a step by step!! :p)


Assuming you have positive earth, a good battery; a fuel supply and a starter that works.

A bit tricky without drawing a diagram but this is what I did:
1. Make up test leads out of any coloured wire you have in your collection and connect crocodile clips to each end.
2. Connect one clip to the battery live terminal and the other end to the coil negative terminal - I may be wrong about the coil negative, but it will work whichever one you connect to. If you have the original coil connect to the one that says SW.
3. The coil has now been energised and will get cooked if you leave it connected for too long. Remove the distributor cap and flick the points open with an insulated screwdriver; you should see a small spark at the points.
4. Crank the engine to see if it will fire using the starter button.
5. If nothing happens remove a spark plug and check for spark at the plug.

You should squirt some oil down the bores and not run it for too long, because the lubrication system may not be at its best,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

As chazza says, but you will also have to supply fuel. Probably best to assume the fuel system does not work until you check the pump and the contents of the tank, and provide a gravity feed system to the carby.

If there are additional spark gaps provided in each plug lead, it is a fair guess that the rings are not in top shape.

John

[wrinklearthur]

OK, surely there's a way I can wire the motor to see if I can get it to start?
Go straight from the battery to the wiring side of the coil, but disconnect the wiring loom first from the back of the start switch, wires on the generator and the wire going to the coil and by doing that there is no chance of power getting back to any shorts in the old wiring.


The existing wiring is pretty average and there are no colours left in it which makes it hard to tell which one should do what!!
As you find what the wire is for paint the end of the insulation with the colour for that wire, for example the wire for the choke switch to the choke warning light is a white sheath and with a blue trace. Another way is to use coloured marker rings that are used on the legs of Canaries or Budgies.


----- Out of curiosity, In the original set of leads on the car, each spark lead had a button "inline" (see photos) with end of spark lead attached to opposite holes which I'm lead to believe is an old flathead V8 owner trick

It's a bit like getting an awkward oiled up two stroke to fire, remove the plug lead and hold it about 1/4" from the plug and 90% of the time it will fire due to the magneto having to provide more oomph to jump the gap.

The 'button trick' as I understand it places the button on plug leads has the same effect, it actually made a false gap in the cable, again the spark was intensified and gave a better start especially with an oily plug... I have since heard that a clear piece of plastic tube used to do the same thing..

What this means about the motor I don't know??
(bad compression?)

So many of those motors were unnecessarily scraped because they were using oil and blowing smoke, mainly from stuck rings and bad inlet valve stem seals.

First replace the seals around the inlet valves, because of the design of the engine, the oil collects around those inlet valve stems causing it to find it's way past the old hard seals to be drawn into the cylinder. I would then give the engine a couple of quick oil changes with some good quality oil and see then after a couple of long runs if the oil usage becomes less.

You can get a bit of an idea of the amount of use the engine has done by looking for any signs of wear, in places like the 'V' in the water pump pulley and the nipples on the clutch and brake pedal ( they will be well worn if the Land Rover has been driven a lot ).

.

[wrinklearthur]

To not have to worry about the SU fuel pump for the time being, use a tin and hose to feed petrol direct down into the carby.
.

[wrinklearthur]

Chazza's point about the oil is good. I would be checking the condition of the sump out first, best way is to drop the old oil cold and only if the old oil is flowing freely, put a new lot of fresh in.

I once had a old diesel David Brown tractor that had the residue in the sump set solid :o, I dropped the sump and then cleared the rubbish out of the sump, pickup and the oil pump. Had I tried to turn that engine over before I checked everything, the drive to the oil pump would have been busted.
.

[digger]

The old brake fluid bottle and a short piece of fuel line are a staple piece in my shed!!

Thanks for the tips, the oil is still fluid

Ive had this problem with a hilux before, The oil solidified and the crank would push slowly through the treacle until it could spin OK and when it would start and then begin to idle OK, youd then check the oil and all was OK.

At that time I was hardly driving it but had it serviced locally but turns out he wasnt changing oils and fluids!! (bastard) He ended up paying for the engine rebuild.


I have no key but thats OK because there is no ignition barrel, and no wiring to the starter button.... :eek: so I assume that a screwdriver to ark over end of starter motor to turn it over?.

Im looking at stripping all the wiring away and starting with a battery and motor!

I appreciate the advice and tips so far thanks.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Im looking at stripping all the wiring away and starting with a battery and motor!

I appreciate the advice and tips so far thanks.

how many wires can there be?:D

[wrinklearthur]

how many wires can there be?

A few that look a lot. :p

If I get off my sorry, I should be able to scan the workshop manual page that has the wiring schematic and the colour codes for the wires as well. Maybe later tonight. :angel:

If you apply voltage directly to any wire, according to Murphy's law that's always the one that contains the essential smoke, which as you all know is required for things to run.

By hooking power directly to a wire is tempting fate, so the way around this is to provide protection in the form of a light bulb in series with the power supply, so in short when there is a short the light bulb lights up and Murphy mucks up.

For most fault finding a headlight bulb does the job fine and for the headlights themselves you can wire both of the test bulb filaments together so they in parallel within the circuit. If this is confusing anyone drop me a line and I will show by a sketch.
.

[incisor]

how many wires can there be?:D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=73438&stc=1&d=1393408336

a few :p

and a 51 diagram just in case

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=73439&stc=1&d=1393408714

[back_in]

Please it is Digger you are helping
wiring Diagrams are outside the training given to SA finest
Digger if I was not going to NZ on Friday I would have come up and showed you how
ring me and I will tell you in 2 minutes before I leave
cheers
Ian

[wrinklearthur]

Thank's Inc, I had just come back inside after feeding the animals, wet, there was a shower of rain and probably the only one that will happen out of this weather front. :(

The numbers beside the wires are a bit hazy but you should be able to make them out if you enlarge the picture to 200%.
Sing out if you have trouble.
.

[chazza]

I have no key but thats OK because there is no ignition barrel, and no wiring to the starter button.... :eek: so I assume that a screwdriver to ark over end of starter motor to turn it over?.

Im looking at stripping all the wiring away and starting with a battery and motor!



If the wiring to the starter switch is still in place and unburnt, leave it alone and the switch will turn the starter.

On my car the switch had seized, so I prized it apart; cleaned it with lemon juice and packed it with vaseline before reassembling.

If you hot-wire the coil as I described, you don't need the ignition switch - I didn't have one either!

What I forgot to mention in my earlier post before I rushed out the door to work, is that the second test lead can be connected between the coil CB and the distributor, if your original wiring is missing or damaged,

Cheers Charlie

[Pedro_The_Swift]

yes Inc, very good:D
(you did put that in the AULRO files section didnt you:angel:)
but thats to make it legal all over the world,,
to make it run/turnover how many?
4 maybe?

[digger]

Guys,
Thanks!

Inc, thanks for that, I did already have those but as all the wires are white cloth it makes it hard to work out what is what, they are all very crusty too so will almost certainly ark out anyway..

I tried pulling the wires in further to show some of the wire from the firewall (hopefully still with colour) but appears at some stage someone has done this already and there is no colour (so the wire diagram would read 1 white, 2 white, 3 white, 4 white, 5 white....you get the idea :D )

Ian,
Cheers, I'll give you a bell if I still have your number, I lost most of mine when my phone needed a new card...

Thanks Charlie,
The starter in this has a bakelite knob (and is so far over its more a job for the passenger! ) and I have already got that free and popping in and out nicely...(if it works? complete another matter)

There was no 'main lead" from the starter button down to the starter motor, I have put on on that I had but believe as all the other wiring is toast that it may not help...

As Pedro has put, (Thanks Pedro) I'm after the absolute basics Id need to do to spin it over if it were sitting on the floor of the shed (which it wont be as thats dirt! :( )


Wiring Loom...
I will almost certainly be ordering another loom from AUTO SPARKS theyve been very impressive with btheir gear so far... will try more local suppliers for price but both last times they were 1/3 more expensive -I will support local (aust) but I cant afford to sponsor them -

The loom there (in cloth braid and same colour wires as original, have ends already fitted) including a loom set to operate both indicators and trafficators at the same time is @ GBP 205.

Need to get a quote from VINWIRE to see how they fare.


in relation to colour, I assume green with green chassis (looking at what little paint is left on it) but dark or light green ?
Cheers
Digger

[digger]

Guys,
<<snip>>Wiring Loom...
I will almost certainly be ordering another loom from AUTO SPARKS theyve been very impressive with btheir gear so far... will try more local suppliers for price but both last times they were 1/3 more expensive -I will support local (aust) but I cant afford to sponsor them -

The loom there (in cloth braid and same colour wires as original, have ends already fitted) including a loom set to operate both indicators and trafficators at the same time is @ GBP 205.

Need to get a quote from VINWIRE to see how they fare.
<<snip>>

VINWIRE, loom for vehicle is $428.-
thats a basic loom, (no indicators etc) as would have been original.
I need to ring them as I believe its $16 a metre extra for cotton braided loom
and I cant find a price for a trafficator/indicator loom...

They do however have the flexible metal tubing needed for trafficator wiring..



The GBP205 converts to about A$382.. so puts vinwire in the ballpark, depending on their trafficator/indicator loom cost.

(The autosparks one contains all relays etc required)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

so Digger,, will this be a full-on "Dinty" restoration,,

or--?

[digger]

so Digger,, will this be a full-on "Dinty" restoration,,

or--?

I dont have the skills for that!

Id like to see how the tray off the other comes up after a cleanup (eg paint off) if it comes up OK then Id like to keep it all bare... I dont mind that at all, but the chassis etc will need a paint, so if I bare that up (which I reckon I must!) then I'll paint it the correct colour...

If the tray, and doors etc dont clean up well then I'll have to look at painting it all.

If I do paint it all the thought would be to give it a pretty good coat but that all depends....

As I have to replace a lot of bits (doors tray tailgate poss front guards) it'll all come down to how they clean up.

[digger]

So, trying to move along but slowly!

Put some oil and a touch of diesel down each pot, only one plug looked slightly rust coloured on thread but all came out nicely (old plugs too)

Yesterday, put the crank handle through and with one plug out it cranks over free and nicely, put the plug back, and enough resistance to make it reasonable... feels good :)

Still haven't got it starting... tried the two wires and still no response from starter. :( MMM maybe crank start is the go??

other than that with work and cfs etc been pretty busy...
Ohh and lost a full day getting warranty work done on the defender...or 1/2 done...for the second time... but that is for another section. Bit annoying that 4 1/2 hrs and 450k total trip and they want it there at 8...I get it there for the "2 hrs work" at 5.30 I leave after they ask if they can have it back tomorrow:eek::eek:...

stress level lifts!!!

thank god for the series!

[ashhhhh]

I got a harness from Vinwire, very, very nice.
With indicator fittings it was around $450, which I thought was expensive but is on par with others.

[LRO53]

[QUOTE=digger;2095179]Afrer much soaking oil in, tonight removed all 4 rims, one brought studs out on 3 of the 5 nuts :(

All 4 are off now anyhow, most look reasonable and a sand blast and paint look like they'll see them right.

All 4 are circle stamped 4/49 (I noticed on my 52 that there is no circle just straight numbers 10/51)

Couple questions..
1) chassis number is: 06103608, this is before the supposed cut off of marking these numbers with R or L prefix.... why is it this one has neither?

06103608
Desp In: 7-11-1949
Desp Out: 8-11-1949.
Champions of Adelaide
CKD Form 6 vehicles in the shipment

Make sure you take plenty of photos of everything before you pull it apart as this is a nice early Champions CKD vehicle.

by 1950 models they started to drop the R/L as by 161/166 vehicles the LHD / RHD part was built into the number. I have seen some 1950s stamped some not.

2) On the engine mount where the number is situated it is prefixed by much smaller stamped numbers I believe read 1404 - I assume this is a factory number -I recall hearing something about it but cannot recall what.

Chassis Build Number: 1404th chassis for the 1950 chassis production year / that variant of chassis.

[digger]

Thanks very much for that!! :)


Yesterday I finally managed to get the roof off without any damage ! :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/693.jpg


and cut the bench seat "thing" out of the car. (son nudged the old bale lift over with the tractor a little while before I managed this! :D he almost missed it!)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/694.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/694.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/695.jpg

and then got the windscreen down... took a bit to undo the hinge bolts!

no rust in the top of the firewall :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/696.jpg

similarly no rust in bottom of windscreen
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/697.jpg

I have been searching for some original paint...not much anywhere!
found some on the cross members behind the fuel tank and the front of the tray area under there also... I assume this dark green is correct for the body but is it dark green or light green chassis (I thought it was supposed to be a rivergum type green)?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/698.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/699.jpg

Whilst blasting copious amounts of rusted fuel tank and carrier out of the fuel tank cradle, I found this down behind the fuel tank ... vinyl, only a small
piece but I assume from the original seats maybe? (if so great to use for a match)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/700.jpg

The keyring is for size comparison... the green in it is very light I think compared to the normal landy emblem green.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/701.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/702.jpg
I also finally managed to free the hinge on the passenger side seat box lid. I have cleaned out a huge amount of dirt, over 250gms of rust nails (I compared the weight :p ) a heap of spent .22 casings and some live corroded ones! :eek:

all in all it isnt much but it took a fair while!

I am wondering can anyone tell me what the 'ringpull' should consist of, the piece of old fence wire there at the moment doesnt look like its original! :angel: I assume a keyring and a small chain (if I recall rightly, which I probably wont!)

Cheers!