IM ASKING FOR A MASSIVE FAVOR

[jamesnedtaylor]

Calling all landy nuts in queensland sunshine coast area
i am in need of someone who is better at electrics than me ( a monkey with a banana as a wrench) to help me and my father with the electrics we had a spark and had it running but as we put it back in we lost it we thought it was coil so we changed it for a new one but we havnt got anything now also the previous owner has cut and shut lots of wires so this probs wont be an easy job but i need help


many thanks in advance

James Ned Taylor

[Sitec]

Sadly not in QLD, but, you might be able to eliminate a few things by trying something first. On the top of the coil there are two small terminals and one large (HT lead) one. Assuming the engine was running and the distributor has not been played with, start by finding the wire (one of the smaller terminals atop the coil) that goes to the distributor. Check it is in good condition and connected both ends distributor and coil). With the HT lead connected and checked, and the distributor supply lead checked, it only leaves the coil feed from the key switch.. To confirm the coil and distributor are working, run a new 'test' wire from the other small terminal on the coil (having disconnected the original) across to the +VE terminal on the battery. (Use two female crimp connectors and a 10/15amp blade fuse in line on your test wire). With this wire connected, you now have a new temporary IGN feed. Turn the key and if everything is ok the engine should start. If it starts, great, you know the coil and distributer are fine. Then look to the fuse box and key switch as your prob is here. If it does not start then you still have a problem in the coil dizzy area. Good luck! :)

[DeanoH]

..................................we had a spark and had it running but as we put it back in we lost it........................


James Ned Taylor



James, what is the mysterious 'it' ?, this may have some bearing on the problem. :D

Firstly check your coil wiring.

1/ The metal coil body must be firmly attached to the engine metal work or car body metal work.
2/ The coil has two wire connections on the top. The one marked +ve goes into the wiring and off to the ignition switch. The one marked -ve goes to the distributor.

This assumes your LR is negative earth, ie the -ve side of the battery is connected to the engine/LR body work.

Next check that the thick wire that goes from the centre of the coil to the centre of the distributor cap is firmly plugged in.

Anyway, don't panic. Do you have a 12 volt test lamp ? If not get one.

First, with the lead of the test lamp connected to the car/engine metalwork connect the probe of the test lamp to the +ve marked connection of the coil. With the ignition on does the lamp light ?

Second, remove the wire(s) from the +ve of the coil. With the lead of the test lamp connected to the +ve of the battery connect the probe to the -ve side of the coil. Whilst turning the engine over does the lamp pulse ?

Check this out and come back for more. :D


Deano :)

[jamesnedtaylor]

2 1/4 engine standard but not to bad lol

[garrywlh]

I'm a bit of a 'Landy nut' and I'm on the Sunshine Coast, but, sadly, when it comes to auto electrics, the monkey with the banana would be more useful to you than I would.

Good luck. Take the advice and suggestions of the guys on this forum. They know their stuff.

Garry

[jamesnedtaylor]

pm'd you mate

[DeanoH]

No worries James PM replied to. :)

Deano :)

[jamesnedtaylor]

thanks you all very much shes up and running and dosnt sound too bad i wish everyone the best of luck with there landys



James Ned Taylor :wasntme: :D

[DeanoH]

Good job James, all's well that ends well. :)

Deano :)