Introducing Betty

[newby@54]

Several days ago I purchased a 1962 SWB SIIA that had been advertised in the For Sale section of this forum. We drove down to Geelong to view it and basically purchased it straight away along with a trailer load of spare bits and bobs plus workshop manuals and boxes of old English Land Rover magazines.


We've named her Betty. She was registered in Victoria and used daily by the previous owner to get to work. He had restored it over a 14 month period from a pile of bits he had bought from someone who had pulled it apart but then had lost interest. It is in very solid shape - not a concours car but a great project for me to play around with. There is no rust, it is 99% correct for the period, there is a new wiring loom, newish radiator, battery and hoses and the original motor has been rebuilt with hardened valve seats so normal unleaded petrol goes in. Repair is needed on the drivers side rear after a women ran into Betty just after the previous owner got it back on the road.


Hopefully if I've got it right a picture of Betty will appear with this post.:)


I've got to get it registered in NSW and when I spoke to the bloke who will probably be doing the blue slip he told me he needed to see the actual chassis number on the chassis - not just the plate inside the car.


The previous owner told me that it was stamped above the left hand rear spring hanger - but I can't find it there. In fact I can find it anywhere. James Taylor in his 2010 book titled 'Land Rover Series II and IIA - Specification Guide' notes that on some overseas built vehicles the chassis number is not stamped on the outer surface of the right hand chassis side rail just behind the front bumper and above the spring hanger where it can be found on English built vehicles. So can someone please tell me where to find it.


Thanks in advance - and I'll try to keep this thread alive with photos of progress.


Nic

[Dinty]

Your chassis number should be stamped as the PO stated, on the LHS rear spring hanger. Does the chassis have too much paint or something over the numbers, anyway it's a nice looking rig, cheers Dennis

[JDNSW]

Assuming it is Australian built, the number will be on the outside of the LH back rear spring hanger, on the vertical bit above the shackle bolt and below the chassis rail. In the unlikely event it is a imported one, it might be worth looking on the RH front chassis rail, on the bit facing out inside the wheel.

If the chassis has been repainted, it is likely that you will have to remove the paint (or most of it) to see the number. May even be necessary to etch the bare metal if it was sanded back when repainted, but most likely the number will become clear as you sand back the paint.

Looks nice.

John

[newby@54]

Thanks John and Dennis - after 10 minutes sanding it magically appeared.

[garrywlh]

Betty's a beauty! Look forward to hearing more.
Good luck with the roadworthy. It sound alike you know lots already, but the more you know, the better your chances of educating a skeptical inspector that things are as they should be!

[newby@54]

Since getting Betty home I've been slowly working from front to back to see what I've bought, pulling bits of where I can to check more deeply. I've been polishing it too as I find by doing so I can really get a feel for the 'patina' on the panels. She is showing her 52 years in places but then again didn't we all!


Everything seems to work, though finding 2nd gear from 3rd continues to challenge me. And the brakes don't exactly throw me through the windscreen. All part of the fun though.:o


But I have a question for the very experienced amongst the membership of this forum. Turning the light switch to side lights gets those working brightly but turning the light switch further to headlights doesn't actually see the headlights light up. But if I hit what I thought to be the dip switch the head lights come on plus the main beam red light lights up on the dash board. Is this normal? I can't see that it is. I think I mentioned earlier that Betty has a new wiring loom but I'm wondering if how the head lights currently work needs attention.


Thanks in anticipation. Latest photo should appear below.


Nic

[JDNSW]

.....

But I have a question for the very experienced amongst the membership of this forum. Turning the light switch to side lights gets those working brightly but turning the light switch further to headlights doesn't actually see the headlights light up. But if I hit what I thought to be the dip switch the head lights come on plus the main beam red light lights up on the dash board. Is this normal? I can't see that it is. I think I mentioned earlier that Betty has a new wiring loom but I'm wondering if how the head lights currently work needs attention.

......


Nic

From the description, low beam is not working. This could be:-

1) Wiring problem, such a a disconnected wire (most likely at the dip switch or where the headlight leads from memory have a junction near the battery- possibly behind the grille) or possibly a wire has been accidentally cut.

2) Both low beam filaments blown - this can actually happen!

3) In the original harness, headlights are unfused, but it is possible the new harness has introduced fuses, and the low beam fuse is blown.

4) The dip switch is faulty - this is probably the most likely.

A test light or meter should find the problem pretty quickly - the wiring is pretty simple!

John

[newby@54]

Thanks John. Now where did I put that test light?


Nic

[newby@54]

It turned out to simply be that the wires to the dip switch had been reversed. Once I put the correct wires to the correct terminals I had low beam and high beam. Brilliant!:D

[harry]

It turned out to simply be that the wires to the dip switch had been reversed. Once I put the correct wires to the correct terminals I had low beam and high beam. Brilliant!:D


lucas land rover lighting,
nah,
definatly not brilliant......

[Johnno1969]

Latest photo should appear below.





Hell's bells, Nic. She's beautiful!!!

[newby@54]

After 3 weeks away its now time to begin sorting out the roadworthy for Betty. Before starting this though I thought I better tidy up the indicator and parking lights.


The 4 indicators are essentially opaque clear plastic (brittle and crumbly) of unknown origin i.e. there are no identifying marks They are domed and look like Wipac in shape - but I don't know.


The front parkers are even tougher to identify. Again they are opaque clear plastic (again brittle and crumbly) but this time with a chrome bezel. They look like Lucas L638s but again there are no identifying marks.


If anyone can identify them I would really appreciate it. I'm told though that Wipac is now out of business and that Lucas doesn't produce older styles. Is that correct? Any leads on sources would be appreciated.


The rear stop lights (well the passenger side especially) is definitely Wipac (it says so) while the drivers side looks like a copy of a Wipac.


Photos are below. Any assistance would be appreciated.


Cheers


Nic

[russellrovers]

After 3 weeks away its now time to begin sorting out the roadworthy for Betty. Before starting this though I thought I better tidy up the indicator and parking lights.


The 4 indicators are essentially opaque clear plastic (brittle and crumbly) of unknown origin i.e. there are no identifying marks They are domed and look like Wipac in shape - but I don't know.


The front parkers are even tougher to identify. Again they are opaque clear plastic (again brittle and crumbly) but this time with a chrome bezel. They look like Lucas L638s but again there are no identifying marks.


If anyone can identify them I would really appreciate it. I'm told though that Wipac is now out of business and that Lucas doesn't produce older styles. Is that correct? Any leads on sources would be appreciated.


The rear stop lights (well the passenger side especially) is definitely Wipac (it says so) while the drivers side looks like a copy of a Wipac.


Photos are below. Any assistance would be appreciated.


Cheers


Nic hi 2 brand new wipacs in there boxs jim

[Johnno1969]

Betty is beautiful.

I have to tell you that I am Deep Bronze Green with envy.

John

[newby@54]

Well - it's taken over a week for me to source and replace where I could the indicators and tail/brake lights with similar but new items.


I've figured out that the indicators are a type of Lucas fitting so I sourced 4 new amber units and fitted them. Not without difficulty though as the backing plates in the new fittings are basically rubbish and I had great difficulty getting the screws that hold the lens to actually screw into the backing plate once that was attached to the vehicle. I ended up on one unit having to cannibalise the new fitting by using the backing plate from the old fitting and fitting it into the new fitting. I tested each indicator as I went and all was good until the last when I think I blew the flasher unit so now no indicators work. So down the auto electrician on Monday.


The front parkers I haven't replaced as they are pretty good and after a polish of the chrome bezel and a clean of the lens they look pretty smart. I found the name Hella on the backing plate so at least I now know who made them. But they look remarkably like a Lucas L638 and a Sparto unit too.


One of my rear tail/brake lights was a Wipac S170 while the other was some sort of cheaper copy. I was lucky to source 2 NOS complete Wipac S170 units (thanks Jim) and they now sit proudly on the back of Betty. I can't get the brake light to work so will have that attended to by an expert shortly.


Here are some new photos. I think she looks smarter with her new lights and her new amber indicators are likely to be more legal than the old white ones.


Nic

[Johnno1969]

Looks great. I have been considering getting some of those 3" Sparto-type tail-light units, but wasn't sure if I'd like them being noticeably larger than the indicators.

Looks pretty tidy on your vehicle.

[Johnno1969]

P.S. Is that clean galvanised capping, or has it been painted?

[newby@54]

Johnno


The previous owner regalvanised everything when he restored the vehicle from a pile of bits. The previous owner to him had pulled her apart to undertake the restoration but then didn't do it.


Nic

[Johnno1969]

Thanks Nic. That explains why it looks so marvellous...

[newby@54]

It's been weeks since I last posted an update on Betty so strap yourselves in....


I was keen for an experienced mechanic to go right over Betty before I submitted her to the Blue Slip inspector. I had to wait 3 weeks before I could get her down to the mechanic and on that day one of his mechanics quit and walked out.


The experienced mechanic, who did his apprenticeship on BMC vehicles including Series Land Rovers, runs a very busy workshop so loosing a staff member really wrecked any chance I had of getting Betty looked at and worked on quickly. But over a 4 week period the following took place:




the fault with the indicators was found and repaired - a faulty fuse and cross wiring
similarly the fault with the brake lights was found and repaired
a 7 pin trailer plug was installed
an engine kill switch was installed as a means of reducing the chances of anyone stealing her
the engine bay and everything underneath was pressure washed - apparently a truly awful job and great for getting yourself covered in oily, greasy muck
brake drums were all removed and brakes pressure washed to remove a build up of oil (leaking axle seals)
brakes bled and adjusted
clutch bled and adjusted
clutch pivot shaft shimmed to overcome lateral movement
gear box and diffs topped up , oils leaks identified
tappets adjusted, timing and points adjusted
carbie removed and cleaned out, and finally
steering box adjusted after tightening several bolts and steering knuckles

Betty sailed through the Blue Slip and I registered her in NSW last Monday. I was a happy chappy driving her home the 20 kms on Tuesday. My wife, who was driving behind me, said I reach a mind blowing 75 kmh!


She now runs very nicely and I can find gears a lot easier. Understandably steering and braking is still not quite up to Ferrari standard but she is a 52 year old Landy.


The last couple of days I've been tidying up the tow hitch so I can actually use her on our property with the trailer and then down to the green waste recycling centre, fitted a fire extinguisher to the side of the drivers seat base (sitting above a fuel tank has concentrated my thinking on fire extinguishers!) and generally cleaned her up after her 4 week stay in a busy workshop.


The to do list includes new tyres, repairs to the damage on the drivers side rear, finding appropriate but workable rear vision mirrors, thinking about installing seat belts, getting a key for the rear window and then thinking about the paint on the canopy.


A couple of pictures are attached.


Nic

[newby@54]

And more photos - I'm having a little trouble uploading them

[newby@54]

Over the past months there has been plenty going on to refurbish my old IIA.


I found the rear vision mirror on the driver’s side fender to be totally useless (despite it being original) so I purchased a couple of universal mirrors and then modified the arms to make them fit. They bolt to the windscreen pivot via the existing bolts so can be removed if needed for originality purposes. Some paint stripping and a couple of coats of hammer tone black and they not only look OK but they actually show me who is tailgating me.


With a lot of strain and leverage I removed and dismantled the tow hitch so I could get an old chain link welded to it so I could legally attach a trailer. I then stripped the whole thing of paint and resprayed in black enamel and hammer tone silver. With a tow ball attached it now looks and works a treat.


And finally I had the wheels sandblasted, sprayed in rust proof paint and then sprayed in deep bronze green. A set of 205R16 Maxxis all terrain tyres top the sparkly wheels off really well. I found that I have 2 types of wheels. There are 3 with the wheel centre welded to the rim and date stamped 1/6/1962 while the other 2 have the wheel centre riveted to the wheel rim and are date stamped 18/6/1956 and 25/1/1961. So clearly the older wheels are from a Series 1. All wheels are identical from the outside so it really doesn’t matter. All part of the history.


With the new mirrors and new tyres, Betty now steers and drives better.


Some photos attached.


Nic.

[Johnno1969]

Betty looks beautiful, mate. Wow!

[Ozdunc]

X2

She looks fantastic. Well done:thumbsup:

[Cobber]

X3! :D

It looks terrific, well done :BigThumb:

[Pickles2]

Great work. Betty looks super original,....plenty of "period charm" there.
Well done, Pickles.

[newby@54]

I'm looking for advice from the many experts on this forum.


The workshop manual notes that the front springs on 88s should have 9 leaves while the rears should have 11 leaves. But Betty has 8 leaves on the fronts (and 11 on the rears). Can anyone shed any light on this? I think I've read somewhere else on this forum that Defence Force 88s had 8 leaves but I'd appreciate any advice offered.


Also, were the strengthening ribs on the underside of the bonnets of Australian CKD vehicles painted black like their UK cousins? English built IIAs had black painted strengthening ribs while Betty's are green like a lot of others on this forum.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers


Nic

[debruiser]

Hi Nick,
Nice truck! Looks like there's been plenty of work done to it.

Springs are tricky, depends if you have a diesel or petrol, diesel had an extra leaf. I think that petrols only had the 8 leaves (from memory) but it could be that you have HD springs, or they might be off something else (a different LR) or someone might have decided they didnt' like the ride and removed 1 leaf.

Google is your friend on this one.

[Ozdunc]

SWB petrol 9 leaf front
SWB diesel 11 leaf front
SWB rears 11 leaf

Militaries were different

[debruiser]

SWB petrol 9 leaf front
SWB diesel 11 leaf front
SWB rears 11 leaf

Militaries were different

See I told you it was tricky! :p:D

[newby@54]

It's been several months since I last updated this post so I thought it was about time I did.

I was keen to get the tailgate lock to actually lock. But as I didn't have a key (not unreasonably a good place to start) I removed the lock and took it to a local locksmith who advertised that he could cut a key for any lock. And he could but it wouldn't turn the barrel. After a week of soaking in WD40 the key and barrel did turn 180 degrees but still wouldn't lock. A 6 week trip to SE Qld intervened but I took the lock with me in my search for a working replacement. I couldn't find one but through Jim at RussellRovers I left the lock with his experienced locksmith who ended up having to drill out the original lock and replace it with a known working barrel from a slightly later Landy. Apparently years of no use had seized the original barrel. From the time I removed the lock to refitting a fully working lock took 3 months - you can't be in a hurry in this game! While the lock was away I removed the stays and locking mechanism from the tailgate and cleaned them up with the use of a wire brush attached to an electric drill - they came up a treat. Photo below.

I had always found the steering to be the scary side of vague and after a couple of incidents in which I thought Betty was about to head bush at speed with me inside I thought I better do something about it. A Land Rover specialist on the other side of Canberra (Roverworks) diagnosed significant steering joint movement. Apparently there was 8mm of movement in one tie rod end. It turned out that the screw in the tie rod was wrecked. So a new tie rod plus 2 tie rods ends were supplied and fitted and now Betty goes only where I point her and not anywhere else. Bumps really used to upset the steering but now they don't. Which is somewhat comforting.

On the drive over to Roverworks the water pump sprang a leak so that was replaced together with the fan belt and a radiator hose.

And finally I've replaced the rubber boots for the gear stick, hand brake and high/low lever and the side screen rubber seals as they well past their use by date.

Betty doesn’t look any different from the outside but she drives a great deal better now that the steering is fixed – so I’ll be using her more. I’ve yet to get the panel work on the driver’s side rear repaired and the swivel seals need attention in the near future. – that maybe her Christmas present.

Nic

[JDNSW]

I wonder if the wrecked thread on the tie rod was the result of using the wrong type of tie rod end for the tie rod? Early ones (up to early Series 3) has an unthreaded section on both the tube and the end, where the clamp fitted and clamped on the unthreaded section. Later ones are all threaded, and clamp on the thread. If you have them mixed, the clamping is ineffective and will eventually wear the thread out, even if it does not unscrew and cause total failure.

Getting them mixed is easy, as the later type is more easily available today, and quite a few people who should know better are not aware of the distinction!

John

[newby@54]

Thanks for the advice John. I certainly didn't know there are 2 types of tie rod. I reckon that novices like me are wise to leave brakes and steering to the experts. Getting it wrong can be painful.


Nic

[newby@54]

I mentioned in my last post that I was keen to have the swivel seals replaced. Well I've just got Betty back from the mechanics who I asked to overhaul the swivel seals, replace the transfer case output shaft seals that had sprung a leak, and fit an oil pressure sender that worked.


The oil pressure sender was replaced when Betty was having the tie rod and tie rod ends replaced but it caused the oil light to come on when the engine was idling despite there being plenty of oil pressure. The light would only go out at higher revs. Roverworks sourced another oil pressure sender from the UK but this also didn't work correctly so after trying several other senders they installed a sender from a Discovery 1 and made a brass adaptor to make it fit. I now have a oil pressure light that works when it should.


The transfer case output shaft seals have been replaced and Betty no longer leaves a thick oily puddle wherever she goes.


The swivel seals however turned into an expensive saga. On removal of the swivels substantial rust was found inside the axle housing and all bearings, bushed and universal joints were well past there use by date. In truth they were well knackered. They kept the bits for me to inspect. The wear was very evident with pitting in the bearings and what looked like hammering in the bearing cups. Roverworks reckon the universals were so worn that they were close to falling apart. So a great deal of remedial work had to take place before the swivel seals could be replaced - to the extent of having bushes made up locally - and bearings and universals all being replaced.


Not surprisingly Betty is now a lot smoother and quieter in the front end and bumps in the road now longer unsettle her. I can even drive one handed whereas before I grasped the steering wheel in a two handed death grip.


And on a far cheaper note, I finally got around to cutting and polishing the paintwork on the canopy. She certainly looks better. The paintwork is all brushed on and very thin on the roof. I can't see any evidence of another coat of paint under the brushwork. And there is a 2cm round hole in the centre of the roof where maybe a spot light or flashing light once existed. No mounting holes however.


Some photos follow.


Cheers


Nic

[newby@54]

Work has continued on Betty but I've been very slack in noting it here.

In February I had the gearbox and engine mounts replaced as they were so bad thebellhousing was sitting on the chassis cross member. I also had her tunedwith the tappets, carbie and timing adjusted and yet another check of thesteering as she still wandered around a bit. It was found that one of themajor nuts holding the steering (not sure which) was so loose it took 5complete turns to tighten it. Not surprisingly driving her was significantlyimproved by this work. I even saw 55mph on the speedo on the way home andI didn't have to hang on for grim death to avoid being speared off into thescrub at every bump in the road.

I now felt comfortable in driving her more and have used her a fair bit aroundthe rural estate we live on and in hooking up the box trailer and takingoffcuts down to Queanbeyan to the recycling centre.

I was using her the other day when she really didn't want to start. Given the slow grind of the starter motor Ithought maybe the battery was flat so I gave it a charge and Betty reluctantlycoughed into life. An hour later andsome 3 kms from home she simply would not start. There was not a breath of life so I had toring the NRMA as I was sure the battery was dead. It turned out that the battery was in greatshape and in tracing the current it appeared the starter motor was dead. The very loose post on the starter motor thatthe power lead bolts to seemed to indicate terminal starter motor problems. That was exactly the problem and Betty nowhas a brand spanking new starter motor that has transformed the ritual ofchurning her over to get her going. Shenow bursts into life which I have to say is terrific given the expense of a newstarter motor.

Now to my query about rivets. I am finallygetting around to having the driver's side rear panel repaired. The PO had a car drive into the side of himabout a month after a 2 year rebuild. The rear corner was badly damaged including the galvanised rearprotection bracket. This is normallyfixed with round headed solid rivets and I want the repairer to replacethese. He points out though that thosecan only be fixed with access to the rear of the rivet ? which I guess makessense. With the tub on the chassis rearaccess is not possible to allow the round headed rivets to be used. What he proposes though is to use pop rivetsand then turn down some aluminium to form little round headed plugs that wouldfit onto the pop rivet. Fiddly and nodoubt expensive but he can't see any other way it could be done. Has anyone had a similar experience in replacingrounded headed solid rivets with no access from the back.

Anysuggestions will be greatly appreciated.


Thanks


Nic

[newby@54]

A month after the previous owner got her back on the road after a 2 year rebuild from a pile of bits a car ran into the driver's side rear. The damage was pretty significant with a torn off panel section behind the rear wheel and the corner galvanised moulding pretty damaged. The PO didn't repair it so I bought her with damaged rear panel work.


I've have finally got around to having it repaired, asking the repairer to not make the repair too obvious even to the point of using a brush on the fresh paint to match the brush marks elsewhere.


Here are some photos.


Cheers


Nic

[newby@54]

To aid in the climb into the cabin I was fortunate to be able to purchase 2 very original (aka rusty and crusty) side steps. It took a lot of time to remove the rust using the Grey Ghost method with a wire brush fitted to an electric drill and then spraying several thin coats of etch primer and then several thin layers of matt black. New nuts, bolts and washers were purchased for the installation.


The thing that took the most time was waiting for the rubber mats, rivets and springs to arrive from the UK. John Craddocks sell them individually and the rubber mats are original Land Rover parts and fit really well.


It is possible to purchase brand new side steps from the UK based companies and to tell the truth this would have been a cheaper option but I wanted original parts made at the time of Betty's birth.


They work a treat. Photos of the before, during and after are attached.


Cheers


Nic

[newby@54]

With our recent move to Maryborough in Qld I'm looking for an mechanic with experience with old Land Rovers.


I visited Andersons in Hervey Bay who say the are Land Rover experts but the bloke I spoke to about my 1962 Betty could not have more disinterested.


So has anyone any pointers to a experienced mechanic in the Maryborough area.


Thanks


Nic

[schuy1]

Ha Ha, yes most mechs dont want to know you if the car is over 10yo! I do not know of any specialist series mechanics around as we all tend to do our own, given how simple they are to work on :) Like they were designed to be pulled apart and rebuilt under a gum tree! :D You may have to start learning or rethink is a series for you. Or drive it to me! :D
Cheers Scott

[harry]

Ha Ha, yes most mechs dont want to know you if the car is over 10yo! I do not know of any specialist series mechanics around as we all tend to do our own, given how simple they are to work on :) Like they were designed to be pulled apart and rebuilt under a gum tree! :D You may have to start learning or rethink is a series for you. Or drive it to me! :D
Cheers Scott

Err, that might have been an elm tree or an English oak, they probably still don't know what a gum tree is!


I want a side step also

[schuy1]

Well, It is a bit hard to find an oak or elm tree in Aus, given Dutch Elm disease, So a gum it has to be :), just not a Blue or forest red gum, they have a nasty habit of dropping limbs on unsuspecting people or objects beneath. I saw some sidesteps in a paper a while back for sale so they are around.
Cheers Scott

[newby@54]

Thanks for the responses. I agree - most mechanics seem to hate working on old cars. These days apprentices seem to be taught to simply rip the old part out and replace it with new. Repairing parts seems to be black magic to them.


And it is possible to purchase new side steps from Craddocks in the UK and they look exactly like the old ones - I can't speak for the quality of them though. I was lucky enough to pick up old ones that I refurbished.


Nic

[newby@54]

Hi there.


With our move to Maryborough I'm wondering whether its time to install the fan cowl. When I bought Betty a cowl was not fitted although I have one ready to fit if needed. But I'm wondering whether it makes any difference. Engine temperature is fine when driving but does rise if I stop for traffic etc.


I would appreciate hearing if anyone has any experience in whether the fan cowl makes an noticeable difference in the engine temperature. And in the attached PDF (from the workshop manual) a shroud for the fan cover (No. 20) is shown. I don't have that part but I do have the cowl (No.2). While I understand the shroud is to protect hands from getting caught in the fan is it important in the effectiveness of the cowl?


Thanks


Nic

[JDNSW]

The shroud is not to protect hands or improve the shroud effectiveness, but to keep the battery cool! Many Series Landrovers get along fine without it. John

[B.S.F.]

A shroud stops the stones thrown up by the front wheels from hitting the fan.
.W.

[JDNSW]

A shroud stops the stones thrown up by the front wheels from hitting the fan.
.W.

I think there may be confusion over nomenclature here - Nic has specified exactly what part he is talking about and is using the word 'shroud' to refer to the extension next to the battrery - this does nothing to stones thrown up by the front wheels, as anything going to hit it has to get past the chassis, battery carrier and battery.

John

[newby@54]

Thanks for the responses. It looks like I will fit the cowl and if I can track down a shroud I can fit one later.


Cheers


Nic

[B.S.F.]

I think there may be confusion over nomenclature here - Nic has specified exactly what part he is talking about and is using the word 'shroud' to refer to the extension next to the battrery - this does nothing to stones thrown up by the front wheels, as anything going to hit it has to get past the chassis, battery carrier and battery.

John

My fault, should have read it properly.
.W.

[newby@54]

Hi

Is anyone able to identify the parking lights fitted to the front of my 1962 SIIA. There is no manufacturer mark so I guess they are not original. The lens is plastic and given the cracks I would like to replace them. And if someone could point me in the direction of a supplier likely to stock them it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Nic

[JDNSW]

I've seen those on Series 2a. I think they are the Sparto lights 505144 (stick back about the same as the amount in front), or possibly Lucas 510179 (longer section behind the guard) fitted as alternatives to suffix 'A' only. The parts book lists them as NLS (No longer supplied), and I do not know of a supplier. You may find them either S/H or new old stock, shelved alongside the hen's teeth.

Australian built ones may have used other locally made lights.

[gromit]

I've seen those on Series 2a. I think they are the Sparto lights 505144 (stick back about the same as the amount in front), or possibly Lucas 510179 (longer section behind the guard) fitted as alternatives to suffix 'A' only. The parts book lists them as NLS (No longer supplied), and I do not know of a supplier. You may find them either S/H or new old stock, shelved alongside the hen's teeth.

Australian built ones may have used other locally made lights.

I think John is correct with Sparto.

Sparto Land Rover Series 2 original early front side light lens and chrome ring | eBay (https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Sparto-Land-Rover-Series-2-original-early-front-side-light-lens-and-chrome-ring-/123726851969?hash=item1cceb1ef81)

A couple of places 'list' them but are out of stock.

LR Service Newsletter from 1966 mentions them
https://www.google.com/url'sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=2ahUKEwiR_9WYnprmAhVKdCsKHdgZCCkQFjACegQIBxAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.series2club.co.uk%2Fdocuments %2FService_Newsletter_1966.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0KqGbVmUYpxzcf3_7L1ddF


Colin

[newby@54]

Thanks John and Colin. At least I know what I'm searching for.

The knowledge collectively held by members on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

Thanks again.

Nic

[4bee]

Interesting read. Thank you. it takes me back a few years when I rebuilt my 2A SWB.

For the lamps, you could try All Four X Four Spares of Kotara NSW 02 40414000. They were able to help me recently with clear lens.

Seemed to go out of their way to do so as well. terryc@allfourx4.com.au

Worth a try.

Certainly not 40 squid (AUD 76) each though.[biggrin][biggrin][bigsad] :no2:

When you have reversed into something hard & smashed one you will wonder why you had spent that much on them.[bigsad]